tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-91148474939855798672024-03-11T03:23:33.561+00:00machacas on wheelscycle touring, audax, and other fun on two wheelsUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger305125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-66956140506449090782018-06-01T09:00:00.001+01:002018-06-01T09:04:16.105+01:00Riding Vía de La Plata: From Cádiz to Santiago de Compostela<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This is a trip that happened more 2 years now...but we´ve been rather busy with life and enjoying the amazing outdoors of British Columbia ever since we moved to Vancouver (Canada) back in November 2015. Here it goes.</div>
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Vía de la Plata, one of the other popular pilgrim routes in Spain, this time crossing South to North. With our Canadian visa applications already submitted, and being technically <i>funemployed</i>, we had no option but to keep on pedalling. A night bus dropped us in Cádiz, in Southern Spain, where we would ride up to Santiago de Compostela a few hundred km later. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Laid-back coastal Cádiz welcomed us with the morning fog...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...so we start riding through the palm-tree filled streets of Cádiz...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Pepa bridge got recently built to avoid gaditanos do a big loop around the peninsula Cádiz sits in. Unfortunately, bike travel was not considered and scooters and bikes are not allowed!? So we did the loop and rode an extra 40 km.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The following morning we woke up in Sánlucar de Barrameda and take the short ferry ride across the Guadalquivir river...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...our plan being to ride 20 km along the shoreline to Matalascañas. Chose your low tide, and a bit of a tailwind, and you are for a superb, wild-ish ride...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...though at some point an electric storm made an appearance and had us wondering where to look for shelter...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...a few min later, and it had passed and we pressed on...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...until we eventually hit El Rocío. This is quite an scenic village, if you manage to visit in low season. No pavement, horses, touristy, but in a way, cute. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A night wild-camping in some Souther forest, and we wake up to torrential rain as we approach Sevilla. What...rain in Southern Spain? Yes, we don´t remember even being so soaked. Nothing that freshly fried <i>porras </i>and a coffee cannot fix.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In Seville we start seeing the famous yellow signs</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Have a quick glimpse of the city we´ve visited many times before (whilst continuing getting soaked)...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...admiring the local buildings and windows...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...until we reach our first official <i>hospedaje.</i> Being completely soaked and cold, we welcome a warm shower and an ever warmer welcome by this lovely couple from Italy. They volunteer two weeks a year in different <i>donativo</i> hospedajes</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We set off bright and early the following morning, only to face brutal muddy climbs on the mountains North of Sevilla...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...where instead of fearing Grizzly encounters we met this Iberian pigs.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZGVT-O0_7i5GzH6zXTuiNj6aJvGxi2_-IjdPvFDnZBnhQgYgVaVdLZmLkbukfaLviuLBFlbFP64gjbK2M3X2OrH4oMa3_ru9_g3XbhyjHRo3gfpgp69OcCZ41BRhDYwY48qRbTRT02L9v/s1600/P1070624.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZGVT-O0_7i5GzH6zXTuiNj6aJvGxi2_-IjdPvFDnZBnhQgYgVaVdLZmLkbukfaLviuLBFlbFP64gjbK2M3X2OrH4oMa3_ru9_g3XbhyjHRo3gfpgp69OcCZ41BRhDYwY48qRbTRT02L9v/s640/P1070624.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Followed some useful signs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcpkHOavfc94x1J8PnmmB-8QijPhYBkXH-PC2PBu4r7_YjoD__M70pQYT7VhyphenhyphengHIHDAcUE86ZSPyPLnehEynjTUJ2y4YCeFAjqzkfYq-e-5j5WPY6lq9Us2Ni2Rkjt455gs4Z8kcaiHI0-/s1600/P1070627.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcpkHOavfc94x1J8PnmmB-8QijPhYBkXH-PC2PBu4r7_YjoD__M70pQYT7VhyphenhyphengHIHDAcUE86ZSPyPLnehEynjTUJ2y4YCeFAjqzkfYq-e-5j5WPY6lq9Us2Ni2Rkjt455gs4Z8kcaiHI0-/s640/P1070627.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">to small villages with all the necessities</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-W6EiIxBU-eLJm7XR4Wx9j5Y24SFMkGLTWunJY85_i7nCe8jk4GKP62AULcpjGgTbcutsf1LWJoxSa_NAYop5yHhyphenhyphentM4PMobDXafWgbHmMk6ku_4YQC8zyP0B90bBeimIWpmVhyphenhyphenc7HhSU/s1600/P1070628.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-W6EiIxBU-eLJm7XR4Wx9j5Y24SFMkGLTWunJY85_i7nCe8jk4GKP62AULcpjGgTbcutsf1LWJoxSa_NAYop5yHhyphenhyphentM4PMobDXafWgbHmMk6ku_4YQC8zyP0B90bBeimIWpmVhyphenhyphenc7HhSU/s640/P1070628.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And some beautiful cobbled streets</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwUaIVMzkVN6gBNYRNQaZrWD-3ej3u_7Z72LEL3SP2venXusUmRAD6DYBvgfmwFwO99wLxHafT1KRN6SyY6MY-_71FBJg0673V1sGY3lvlrMLVFvtYWFk4gSsaEHD7kArTD5a7HZYtRRRO/s1600/P1070633.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwUaIVMzkVN6gBNYRNQaZrWD-3ej3u_7Z72LEL3SP2venXusUmRAD6DYBvgfmwFwO99wLxHafT1KRN6SyY6MY-_71FBJg0673V1sGY3lvlrMLVFvtYWFk4gSsaEHD7kArTD5a7HZYtRRRO/s640/P1070633.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Window</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMiRRxfzbzMS2hFMmQEQfVKby2zl-nf7ATHU_IzpzJWb0cqAth5h7k4KiIZFSv3wppy6LODEpgIIrJ3prFRyQsljLQq84V4NGPCdB7ISvw1W6uvyMG2y-rBbRFJ_szPV_B8-gk844XYoiY/s1600/P1070636.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMiRRxfzbzMS2hFMmQEQfVKby2zl-nf7ATHU_IzpzJWb0cqAth5h7k4KiIZFSv3wppy6LODEpgIIrJ3prFRyQsljLQq84V4NGPCdB7ISvw1W6uvyMG2y-rBbRFJ_szPV_B8-gk844XYoiY/s640/P1070636.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The landscape was bland at times...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyf60uSiUrv-j9HVwYRlkTxlPbxhjpUAm4JuKlCZfh0amUt7x1LOczEzdp74eitWV5hl88tFUBqV3Tr4hcC5A3IKPW63i8RtHO5DHtMvuOjbQKlAkq-2zIRIligAhn1okN9b7kVpN-POqL/s1600/P1070640.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyf60uSiUrv-j9HVwYRlkTxlPbxhjpUAm4JuKlCZfh0amUt7x1LOczEzdp74eitWV5hl88tFUBqV3Tr4hcC5A3IKPW63i8RtHO5DHtMvuOjbQKlAkq-2zIRIligAhn1okN9b7kVpN-POqL/s640/P1070640.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But the villages always welcoming</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBiYMvaDOmSd-8agC_TqgsBWJ-jD0WA3xePm0WEuosfOa1IPEDAyoePFPvYJLSpDkF1BvTtdXPKT82gX5ipqb9u5LqbNG_Tr2FymdrjxnxQtdfCpE5-KGruRXZAOMFmnH2SrbBwC7h8i5R/s1600/P1070644.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBiYMvaDOmSd-8agC_TqgsBWJ-jD0WA3xePm0WEuosfOa1IPEDAyoePFPvYJLSpDkF1BvTtdXPKT82gX5ipqb9u5LqbNG_Tr2FymdrjxnxQtdfCpE5-KGruRXZAOMFmnH2SrbBwC7h8i5R/s640/P1070644.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ-ecfk4Qt9Z5-W-xcBuH3kt3GzgBOTdOVhGavNTpMsZ5JjgH5Z8pAH3EadKNylYw35boftIiPPtiCP2w3_8yeLDLbtUcyEA4Xk4FJnN8gRz29iZFOPWUVUT6bc0JqhMimJwoVAMrqwjDo/s1600/P1070648.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ-ecfk4Qt9Z5-W-xcBuH3kt3GzgBOTdOVhGavNTpMsZ5JjgH5Z8pAH3EadKNylYw35boftIiPPtiCP2w3_8yeLDLbtUcyEA4Xk4FJnN8gRz29iZFOPWUVUT6bc0JqhMimJwoVAMrqwjDo/s640/P1070648.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soon we entered olive territory</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggDVGLwaoCKbvM-QsncibkMHaxSb2QKj24AAEIKwlGWTD_3eIFAmnpx8u6zDDyh7-YEVXuzKR2ptaoys8XlppSXOT3lUOt9UWW7NQA4wXqD7muPbz2q65axMSeaMxtbDPJQMeSbV0Pc5cX/s1600/P1070650.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggDVGLwaoCKbvM-QsncibkMHaxSb2QKj24AAEIKwlGWTD_3eIFAmnpx8u6zDDyh7-YEVXuzKR2ptaoys8XlppSXOT3lUOt9UWW7NQA4wXqD7muPbz2q65axMSeaMxtbDPJQMeSbV0Pc5cX/s640/P1070650.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Where we looked for a good spot to spend the night...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjSXWswmSJyDM_Se87NkGssLcevoVWcJkUOjOmVCAD0MX9YxafNMe2sHtLsfjVXRMBbSIACGAyozzMT8wuwyxtXNoqn8EhKfMJmaNnoqeEaNdPPpbUlojChTGbVKEFGD4m5rvzSCBjB6Nz/s1600/P1070653.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjSXWswmSJyDM_Se87NkGssLcevoVWcJkUOjOmVCAD0MX9YxafNMe2sHtLsfjVXRMBbSIACGAyozzMT8wuwyxtXNoqn8EhKfMJmaNnoqeEaNdPPpbUlojChTGbVKEFGD4m5rvzSCBjB6Nz/s640/P1070653.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In Europe it isn´t unusual to bump into these things</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqi42Gkpg_95vfOimw1uXeW81tNmxBUt6XX01EQ5MNYfx6jFPp3mHO6IdOyyiFijINGCSRTStRbGkbyUYNLvlHW3hKiNNhnBqvQMvlZagLNfu6qEUH2u78L7XKa7FzSH6zFXW9IWk5wy70/s1600/P1070661.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqi42Gkpg_95vfOimw1uXeW81tNmxBUt6XX01EQ5MNYfx6jFPp3mHO6IdOyyiFijINGCSRTStRbGkbyUYNLvlHW3hKiNNhnBqvQMvlZagLNfu6qEUH2u78L7XKa7FzSH6zFXW9IWk5wy70/s640/P1070661.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outside of Cáceres</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOyidaJedmvTOKNzqdU5SbYBENcDrQQRH-e-jBGxNKU9s4zvWIcLCr66WeEi1cIJ6l7kJol_C3zvFfMn1KLKR0mxxxhsLMt1_BYac5gkc8zR1DWfx1cw6TXGEU6m0eYZPn9wUG9J6akYNS/s1600/P1070671.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOyidaJedmvTOKNzqdU5SbYBENcDrQQRH-e-jBGxNKU9s4zvWIcLCr66WeEi1cIJ6l7kJol_C3zvFfMn1KLKR0mxxxhsLMt1_BYac5gkc8zR1DWfx1cw6TXGEU6m0eYZPn9wUG9J6akYNS/s640/P1070671.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK15tiLY7GmNFzoOSfGC73JnPH-yfBsW4-iGmsrxMjxlvpgnANyE9fTBPLG1H5dzd9XsgYjlcUHGbXGhiVCideAE5IsRQ-VqXxGlslMH6KiV_9K7pXd_TQ7yRFFx10OyRRE7vJAh7KuWSe/s1600/P1070675.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK15tiLY7GmNFzoOSfGC73JnPH-yfBsW4-iGmsrxMjxlvpgnANyE9fTBPLG1H5dzd9XsgYjlcUHGbXGhiVCideAE5IsRQ-VqXxGlslMH6KiV_9K7pXd_TQ7yRFFx10OyRRE7vJAh7KuWSe/s640/P1070675.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzB6woK668NlT_w43h1hbKG_biTrw3aqf2yiyZfanFbb9uNcIwXkfHkIaFXELKcsDG_DeR1Nvi9PM90-byDAzipS_HeHFSI-F1lduyWpHGBoN0MChVygcg5nk4hq5-IX4cPTnrPcM9H0R5/s1600/P1070676.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzB6woK668NlT_w43h1hbKG_biTrw3aqf2yiyZfanFbb9uNcIwXkfHkIaFXELKcsDG_DeR1Nvi9PM90-byDAzipS_HeHFSI-F1lduyWpHGBoN0MChVygcg5nk4hq5-IX4cPTnrPcM9H0R5/s640/P1070676.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And of course, some good dose of Spanish sexism</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyWdTXzHxxoPEnds88yQV5f1_loxiqU9t9yP_FT3-owbinBgAYP84T5CmPj-BEuXf-NrmaFWkrVkR20EGDT_Z5ElYcdVKCpUA8eGHKMK9FxNm3QbWwAC4OTvn-nHaFwWjdYSqGZk-W_oyT/s1600/P1070683.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyWdTXzHxxoPEnds88yQV5f1_loxiqU9t9yP_FT3-owbinBgAYP84T5CmPj-BEuXf-NrmaFWkrVkR20EGDT_Z5ElYcdVKCpUA8eGHKMK9FxNm3QbWwAC4OTvn-nHaFwWjdYSqGZk-W_oyT/s640/P1070683.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Met with my uncle, a long'time resident of Cáceres</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyny3sJf15bL8n58UxIGA0b1NWzGiJPhxziSct8ZsksOLS_4zpN0WXfCoRkUDCUS8gTo0Y8bOoWDoBB2CNU0UiglUeipBUS4WxeKmQNKwnUUo231ByCal1fAUz44J-UIuY-U9p0XJS_pIH/s1600/P1070697.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyny3sJf15bL8n58UxIGA0b1NWzGiJPhxziSct8ZsksOLS_4zpN0WXfCoRkUDCUS8gTo0Y8bOoWDoBB2CNU0UiglUeipBUS4WxeKmQNKwnUUo231ByCal1fAUz44J-UIuY-U9p0XJS_pIH/s640/P1070697.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And enjoyed their great hospitality</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGNVh5aoxTIvnay0xQcIfJk1z3GAXAXaNi4tbSS22OCgOewPMw7xqtXWfZUEqHbMkEyfXRBTffxbtcV3DxL6t4L9ycGyzPJ24DGDPnAgM6Nj9k7aUlXvKv33Tvzr5vvjZQ8PEIFAOwRWK3/s1600/P1070705.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGNVh5aoxTIvnay0xQcIfJk1z3GAXAXaNi4tbSS22OCgOewPMw7xqtXWfZUEqHbMkEyfXRBTffxbtcV3DxL6t4L9ycGyzPJ24DGDPnAgM6Nj9k7aUlXvKv33Tvzr5vvjZQ8PEIFAOwRWK3/s640/P1070705.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another thing in Spain: the high speed (unfinished) train projects linking small communities at a huge cost. Really?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6J3a7wbM31jXp0w3iYPwJ3OcJTCztnyvSftr2Iv750yn7FlgtSyeiHvEPSdMHMpO8IDEiwg28AIlre-z71zAM8e4SrUyiX7YfOpMrP8OAP0sd5RGgh5LWlbUl1tehFkZrgc8UCMhV9E3j/s1600/P1070715.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6J3a7wbM31jXp0w3iYPwJ3OcJTCztnyvSftr2Iv750yn7FlgtSyeiHvEPSdMHMpO8IDEiwg28AIlre-z71zAM8e4SrUyiX7YfOpMrP8OAP0sd5RGgh5LWlbUl1tehFkZrgc8UCMhV9E3j/s640/P1070715.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Singletrack</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNYan1awbWgaTUFzVG4VghQnjjfWR2qDiKtr5DjXaUuJuIyJbBLTwk1xKgPFze9yMU4Kv89pCUB6UwbeTYXmYhI2lG5aw0MElO50EpQ-tVhO90umcPbqPyBbsR5uMLOtQf8lOGEaGPoop8/s1600/P1070720.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNYan1awbWgaTUFzVG4VghQnjjfWR2qDiKtr5DjXaUuJuIyJbBLTwk1xKgPFze9yMU4Kv89pCUB6UwbeTYXmYhI2lG5aw0MElO50EpQ-tVhO90umcPbqPyBbsR5uMLOtQf8lOGEaGPoop8/s640/P1070720.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhawHzQg2psE_TDylt8aX_IxeGNlodxS_49KPaRvJ8yGxOyNaLWPVekG0s37AtkulI0dQcA_4F-keMWfHOKrBMUymyYXwMVshkYS7NjnZ0RscrwqYMqJEFnRlAocMth2evf_LbrXbLjyHfV/s1600/P1070732.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhawHzQg2psE_TDylt8aX_IxeGNlodxS_49KPaRvJ8yGxOyNaLWPVekG0s37AtkulI0dQcA_4F-keMWfHOKrBMUymyYXwMVshkYS7NjnZ0RscrwqYMqJEFnRlAocMth2evf_LbrXbLjyHfV/s640/P1070732.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And yet another great hospedaje where we crashed after a long day with other fellow pilgrims (on foot, ouch)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxlzuBF8x43bhpzUBSMPAgzNoRjg6ObOBNVtjUl4hJxQIUAJJo6yHuYJiY8OT_URO-bnpUAthz1JumWmDBkg_fK-7KauAi0-HZcj9RaWz6hLBNNA2lYvFpYysIsKtJ30i6zjlfx5nXKvWv/s1600/P1070735.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxlzuBF8x43bhpzUBSMPAgzNoRjg6ObOBNVtjUl4hJxQIUAJJo6yHuYJiY8OT_URO-bnpUAthz1JumWmDBkg_fK-7KauAi0-HZcj9RaWz6hLBNNA2lYvFpYysIsKtJ30i6zjlfx5nXKvWv/s640/P1070735.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lucy, stoked on Camino</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheVijxWYicYCxdNOEOo1ZbYNsUW7DS9muhpC6Nb5eBzULODmDpsRNvl6pum1UlRWBN_eJaJLWdkCt9jLpvDmnzcZk4uhJtbyyPSBEiBEpC3l3yF_YY7C04_hPApHkTSz5qPkJekL3hSjXS/s1600/P1070736.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheVijxWYicYCxdNOEOo1ZbYNsUW7DS9muhpC6Nb5eBzULODmDpsRNvl6pum1UlRWBN_eJaJLWdkCt9jLpvDmnzcZk4uhJtbyyPSBEiBEpC3l3yF_YY7C04_hPApHkTSz5qPkJekL3hSjXS/s640/P1070736.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Weather turned for a more autumnal one...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGrTJPWXR9hiFNtkvqlUV2KjRq1b8Zodt82eP_-mKJSvlEF6glOF9U_luxfcJnFxoDgiGElUVpe2TfYtKViWWsH9LicIZIgqGK7F3Cn9Vy-mLKeocukeSy_1xtCUtHhK3wXWviXADE1fg3/s1600/P1070748.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGrTJPWXR9hiFNtkvqlUV2KjRq1b8Zodt82eP_-mKJSvlEF6glOF9U_luxfcJnFxoDgiGElUVpe2TfYtKViWWsH9LicIZIgqGK7F3Cn9Vy-mLKeocukeSy_1xtCUtHhK3wXWviXADE1fg3/s640/P1070748.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Badajoz</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old town</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq4yyTRL9BqMwBKtwZADg9_Q-x0K-rARhS4l6kJDqwf27Jly1VLkGajdabxY2qCfIiC8-zFjbRYSMPuf_uILz65TKjZs2QgkCNQlSnmiZnlQl7OyLeAVJXaA5zttDUyXkMkjQ327rGDbdv/s1600/P1070752.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq4yyTRL9BqMwBKtwZADg9_Q-x0K-rARhS4l6kJDqwf27Jly1VLkGajdabxY2qCfIiC8-zFjbRYSMPuf_uILz65TKjZs2QgkCNQlSnmiZnlQl7OyLeAVJXaA5zttDUyXkMkjQ327rGDbdv/s640/P1070752.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyBeztI5r0DSWEADTFtqb0OeXCBd4VzWq-yFsjltZlwe4xIWeqI4faXOIjcT8ytJzi9hPDSVLd4htQZ4-OJHyr6HuRvrztfzDJ_LRHmgFnm9pN9-X-Z70_kPQtQGA_lAAnA1Ehme7xGZN3/s1600/P1070766.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyBeztI5r0DSWEADTFtqb0OeXCBd4VzWq-yFsjltZlwe4xIWeqI4faXOIjcT8ytJzi9hPDSVLd4htQZ4-OJHyr6HuRvrztfzDJ_LRHmgFnm9pN9-X-Z70_kPQtQGA_lAAnA1Ehme7xGZN3/s640/P1070766.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Love the colors here. Lucy´s hair color blends in even</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz3T6sl7_cCFUwH5O4JeuX_hv_w2LEgXsRnzjDfenu6sbY-zdSNm5BFsFDpGaudnRBMj45gToeeXz-V7q4PEPlvBpKZlLAGWYwFTKiVd_3sklvP_Plh_6oS4RcfWpYGRyfICJ_t3T0Zwlv/s1600/P1070779.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz3T6sl7_cCFUwH5O4JeuX_hv_w2LEgXsRnzjDfenu6sbY-zdSNm5BFsFDpGaudnRBMj45gToeeXz-V7q4PEPlvBpKZlLAGWYwFTKiVd_3sklvP_Plh_6oS4RcfWpYGRyfICJ_t3T0Zwlv/s640/P1070779.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some Canadians must´ve expertly planted these trees</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTIy4EsB1R0MV3hzsDUmalrLbVH6JgcxpELpdk2SRAUtuZrgwafsSPB_beM48fDpkFWB50AftAIHJphJAlwwGELH646B_XwoSvXROdu3TzWCg09XfWBMqfF9JbCWK7VS7OzpM8HioldYvl/s1600/P1070782.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTIy4EsB1R0MV3hzsDUmalrLbVH6JgcxpELpdk2SRAUtuZrgwafsSPB_beM48fDpkFWB50AftAIHJphJAlwwGELH646B_XwoSvXROdu3TzWCg09XfWBMqfF9JbCWK7VS7OzpM8HioldYvl/s640/P1070782.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Riding on autumn</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9cMes3HubpRut4okfG-AImHW_uSou-O28x6jQbIIaTnps8RQ4bRXtKvd-m18zpZj8cTuvRzMOqYLVONBBqnMXg7aLU53ozDRtP7sM4ofYuftZIQtld3I8RZDf1VRRbmV6FHul5jMRaxqe/s1600/P1070789.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9cMes3HubpRut4okfG-AImHW_uSou-O28x6jQbIIaTnps8RQ4bRXtKvd-m18zpZj8cTuvRzMOqYLVONBBqnMXg7aLU53ozDRtP7sM4ofYuftZIQtld3I8RZDf1VRRbmV6FHul5jMRaxqe/s640/P1070789.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another random donation hospedaje - this time a family´s backyard, fully equipped. Crazy no?</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmXaISsfufKSRRr8ZXOkmpxemOYUR0Ap6mTehSWR4ImTx2UPN2Y8rovZPQgdPaI3G_vagW-g_fWQm7qR4SIpYEmLoH6-ZiP-utpqZImcdQJTuaCxRNzYV2xaSeP1EcHYakmQFopBaOP525/s1600/P1070795.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmXaISsfufKSRRr8ZXOkmpxemOYUR0Ap6mTehSWR4ImTx2UPN2Y8rovZPQgdPaI3G_vagW-g_fWQm7qR4SIpYEmLoH6-ZiP-utpqZImcdQJTuaCxRNzYV2xaSeP1EcHYakmQFopBaOP525/s640/P1070795.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYpw7ymn94WtSPY4IgvHkqR1ZlyhSuhXvolt9BYcWuNWR9ypaTPdI-PxNtp_jAR-p-8rpkJK50-Ls4BpTQGr-3jlbuY0vZnhsiFUyy0xHJyFXT6LyRFaKy8j5WWsBJ4TxP7GHpER4LJhV1/s1600/P1070803.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYpw7ymn94WtSPY4IgvHkqR1ZlyhSuhXvolt9BYcWuNWR9ypaTPdI-PxNtp_jAR-p-8rpkJK50-Ls4BpTQGr-3jlbuY0vZnhsiFUyy0xHJyFXT6LyRFaKy8j5WWsBJ4TxP7GHpER4LJhV1/s640/P1070803.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Never figured out why the drying of these corn</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-TsUcQ2g4YPiYSgNLSsAYNnLQ5SQckRLf176O8XjnaM7mxfZ-0iJqhogl2H8TPS8Rxhw97nn1LLmT9QWaUhKbTQnsSE-NUoniU7C0Y_WgEIXzNytT9mp9amSGwp-k2vUGjVnd2yW16o7m/s1600/P1070822.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-TsUcQ2g4YPiYSgNLSsAYNnLQ5SQckRLf176O8XjnaM7mxfZ-0iJqhogl2H8TPS8Rxhw97nn1LLmT9QWaUhKbTQnsSE-NUoniU7C0Y_WgEIXzNytT9mp9amSGwp-k2vUGjVnd2yW16o7m/s640/P1070822.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close to Santiago we enjoyed full hospedajes to ourselves. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Last few pedal strokes...Galicia is green</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7BOIiqxUv2ay5bHytaZhxy10_RrTjtIh46cBQLTMoJHlvl4zKqJK4dAlbjJp81wjosoR5zUbA7RpzF1J0C4KQLsjaHPTQuzrPF5BUNskI0MXOCFUS4JgtYcF4zaxJ24OqJGRMk4oxux2T/s1600/P1070832.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7BOIiqxUv2ay5bHytaZhxy10_RrTjtIh46cBQLTMoJHlvl4zKqJK4dAlbjJp81wjosoR5zUbA7RpzF1J0C4KQLsjaHPTQuzrPF5BUNskI0MXOCFUS4JgtYcF4zaxJ24OqJGRMk4oxux2T/s640/P1070832.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arrival</td></tr>
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<br />Albertohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15789158563391048740noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-89228795192773954022016-02-14T00:23:00.003+00:002016-02-14T00:25:05.258+00:00Bike-hiking in the Spanish PyreneesArriving back in Spain after a year and a half on the road, we made a beeline for Benasque, a small town in the Pyrenees Mountains where we could spend time with family, be in nature, and generally ease back in to 'real life' as the Canadians processed our visas. Most of the month and a half that we were there we were without a car, making for plenty of bike and hike adventures.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqlozGQwwM2cvCH2J-BFBtBIzvs7MbUkzQoEM-al8kk4M6oVgcxMSvIw3b2gvIFXTo2pnqf6aGy699-k4vsOErhmwSx9Dd6kFzVUwV0vsvGtQAVPpfRIGFsf0Jh532MkvV-xCwOC-NtYo/s1600/P1070158.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqlozGQwwM2cvCH2J-BFBtBIzvs7MbUkzQoEM-al8kk4M6oVgcxMSvIw3b2gvIFXTo2pnqf6aGy699-k4vsOErhmwSx9Dd6kFzVUwV0vsvGtQAVPpfRIGFsf0Jh532MkvV-xCwOC-NtYo/s640/P1070158.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happily for us, the Valle de Benasque is littered with signposted MTB trails. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiELcCm7ruIE_6PtnrxGsTJWWhkrR0fH5lDN2C6OA6CX10IF5bNAXlmxBTvIjUtjnNjFoR_qRmWETD-0zrCeL_-BtyU72G0OdAuHBN-YUH1Lcf00nStL6JaYeHonRQ8lv9WYf1GOcW0L0A/s1600/P1070170.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiELcCm7ruIE_6PtnrxGsTJWWhkrR0fH5lDN2C6OA6CX10IF5bNAXlmxBTvIjUtjnNjFoR_qRmWETD-0zrCeL_-BtyU72G0OdAuHBN-YUH1Lcf00nStL6JaYeHonRQ8lv9WYf1GOcW0L0A/s640/P1070170.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our first outing is for the signposted 'Vuelta a la Sierra de Chia' route which circumnavigates the Chia mountains. A bit tougher than anticipated but great fun!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicnIE6qcsTNx5e4tQjsxksYxLmePg3nttoVpCGUph-t4SHeuEtBpYZ8FQS7PJ-meNhox59T3RQc5W9kK2gw3C25CKJCFH-56BKULUX3z6Mges8NwKwYQZuClbkreSxpl7GiIQn5rNRe3Y/s1600/P1070174.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicnIE6qcsTNx5e4tQjsxksYxLmePg3nttoVpCGUph-t4SHeuEtBpYZ8FQS7PJ-meNhox59T3RQc5W9kK2gw3C25CKJCFH-56BKULUX3z6Mges8NwKwYQZuClbkreSxpl7GiIQn5rNRe3Y/s640/P1070174.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We marvel at Spain's awesome dirt roads and vow to find more time to explore them.</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi87k0vgSJNy4dlQdDGPWzLPTLX4HiZMtgbA4WWq-5oD3eRouhfinjNzyWN52WF7UcKFRqaHQ7T6h3m-YgAEXIo-xOriFTNoV4q3FbLM89-1sbWKIxxaA_79vchwrfbS2DgpDGLRvDVSs4/s1600/P1070194.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi87k0vgSJNy4dlQdDGPWzLPTLX4HiZMtgbA4WWq-5oD3eRouhfinjNzyWN52WF7UcKFRqaHQ7T6h3m-YgAEXIo-xOriFTNoV4q3FbLM89-1sbWKIxxaA_79vchwrfbS2DgpDGLRvDVSs4/s640/P1070194.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The views provide a good reward.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieL7Kx038wJ1Eo2Pt9SlfTSWTTmSfH0wv-a4MwyTt9KqaBk4B4wUc5kCfunLsOV_6gma7Q8IDhwl1I6szRzZQ1rgbJMD6JuQln4CkVamLS7bEtEwKXoNvEoqZdY6dTlD9Qj0WTD-dPfnw/s1600/P1070204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieL7Kx038wJ1Eo2Pt9SlfTSWTTmSfH0wv-a4MwyTt9KqaBk4B4wUc5kCfunLsOV_6gma7Q8IDhwl1I6szRzZQ1rgbJMD6JuQln4CkVamLS7bEtEwKXoNvEoqZdY6dTlD9Qj0WTD-dPfnw/s640/P1070204.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Too often, we decide to try out tracks we find online which take us down unreasonable paths for our bike setups and/or skill level. Well, we fancied a bit of bike and hike anyway!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimuIR8OXBGpVxna8KfZNgzynYJQ2GaO4lnYejopALokpKLiAGlCyUpZID3LXWJP3-SnqJRswlHrpyqvzoQzqaMHjlRFy0M1GnTDgSHQPpiL9STyaWzNEaIBP_OAC3SPr2mto8vH2KtwsY/s1600/P1070321.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimuIR8OXBGpVxna8KfZNgzynYJQ2GaO4lnYejopALokpKLiAGlCyUpZID3LXWJP3-SnqJRswlHrpyqvzoQzqaMHjlRFy0M1GnTDgSHQPpiL9STyaWzNEaIBP_OAC3SPr2mto8vH2KtwsY/s640/P1070321.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There are plenty of towns in this valley (Chía in the background), but it's also possible to spend a day cycling on tracks and paths and never step foot in one.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJNEp_g-RYZKtvIkFyhGCbnEhyrjITUIjHd2uMrPvhWXIeAccKHU7CENXyBCZAUpz_PkcOkif2d3HFK8mBA6gzmzxPc76Ztf_Fg9ckGV2cOMKMIXBkSi4l62nc9fWVvwp03toEnYkCXfDu/s1600/P1070076.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJNEp_g-RYZKtvIkFyhGCbnEhyrjITUIjHd2uMrPvhWXIeAccKHU7CENXyBCZAUpz_PkcOkif2d3HFK8mBA6gzmzxPc76Ztf_Fg9ckGV2cOMKMIXBkSi4l62nc9fWVvwp03toEnYkCXfDu/s640/P1070076.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some days we drop the bikes and hiked up easier trails with the family</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6P9jhyphenhyphennPomiUBEO8aTQ7ezVTPz8UTolSfCiUltynoJzrsrX3cibsMnW3jqjDLJ88On2HcEe1rXKhZsoqhEWhzJgcd7xnbp16QRJJCIlOMegrPhyTpk_bBnUnI8CTosRp6Qus61DdPSgfX/s1600/P1070082.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6P9jhyphenhyphennPomiUBEO8aTQ7ezVTPz8UTolSfCiUltynoJzrsrX3cibsMnW3jqjDLJ88On2HcEe1rXKhZsoqhEWhzJgcd7xnbp16QRJJCIlOMegrPhyTpk_bBnUnI8CTosRp6Qus61DdPSgfX/s640/P1070082.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The views never disappointed</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ4UhQzbbvBh_eootHAj92fj50HHjkxBapDN9DhbcZISVzNKG5JAVhix2zKalU9k2gONAq4z-5tATIkQ4dtj2ex8lCW2BWs3-G7ZLLtGZJMYnYjcc1raRE9Ih1lvYM-LjUMCSTy1PbvDYQ/s1600/P1070088.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ4UhQzbbvBh_eootHAj92fj50HHjkxBapDN9DhbcZISVzNKG5JAVhix2zKalU9k2gONAq4z-5tATIkQ4dtj2ex8lCW2BWs3-G7ZLLtGZJMYnYjcc1raRE9Ih1lvYM-LjUMCSTy1PbvDYQ/s640/P1070088.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting higher</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4tvFLLSqxVnlQ7UjicW_8bID2zQa50dwkwRP5fDt8dayVde_f7YaZIiu20y5GAXgjYQT-32lCOcCXufuVOO3qVXThWwdD_qSgor63rvubysvUb80_5BCos_fo_7rzxv-p2LGPO_L45mZf/s1600/P1070100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4tvFLLSqxVnlQ7UjicW_8bID2zQa50dwkwRP5fDt8dayVde_f7YaZIiu20y5GAXgjYQT-32lCOcCXufuVOO3qVXThWwdD_qSgor63rvubysvUb80_5BCos_fo_7rzxv-p2LGPO_L45mZf/s640/P1070100.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Aneto in the background, with its tiny glacier</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKnU3-G06M5_T73WBT4sOiY0cuUuPbE1Z7CH2M0W9kZ_dtNHtvAtMmh1fvuDkR5T6hXGYEMdjzAFggMfDSYjpkVLdhpSZhtcHqVKFBKQNiZTa-o2LVTEa3sep8cYX6SIRvdwzlHUzhEmrK/s1600/P1070113.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKnU3-G06M5_T73WBT4sOiY0cuUuPbE1Z7CH2M0W9kZ_dtNHtvAtMmh1fvuDkR5T6hXGYEMdjzAFggMfDSYjpkVLdhpSZhtcHqVKFBKQNiZTa-o2LVTEa3sep8cYX6SIRvdwzlHUzhEmrK/s640/P1070113.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close up on the glacier...to the right we saw a line of people climbing up</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf2dHyta2ma9snpGa2FX_6Nw2l49boPl-hegIKwhygZuzOuOt800nJygLGTL2lSRKgL6B_-DzMrv7cvxl8CAqmJcd2umhiCPkUjcdADY4WqW_UclWp9rIwxM65IyLjfI8ygg4ceyQxKaH3/s1600/P1070115.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf2dHyta2ma9snpGa2FX_6Nw2l49boPl-hegIKwhygZuzOuOt800nJygLGTL2lSRKgL6B_-DzMrv7cvxl8CAqmJcd2umhiCPkUjcdADY4WqW_UclWp9rIwxM65IyLjfI8ygg4ceyQxKaH3/s640/P1070115.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfU8-XMnU1yHT-HOLbKimdXNpGWOaVr-j6Y_leEnAtcidSy23XkcIAN9IauWf5Zt1Nom8GG1EIlHatrZo9iv4mzus96k144IJwii17a4xo-L4aGEHnMPbImoaAw_w9hhmuGR2lU33zQ87d/s1600/P1070128.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfU8-XMnU1yHT-HOLbKimdXNpGWOaVr-j6Y_leEnAtcidSy23XkcIAN9IauWf5Zt1Nom8GG1EIlHatrZo9iv4mzus96k144IJwii17a4xo-L4aGEHnMPbImoaAw_w9hhmuGR2lU33zQ87d/s640/P1070128.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the top of "El Portillón" one can see La France and on a clear day the end of the Pyrinees. Definitely a route worth attempting as a hike-a-bike</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTMdstcxUnUXngE0vEwUsnI1a0PTwFw6a2duJPZOLqmywXj3A3OQIZ8f1CuIpgvtF9KZqS3j9jHNOlkQqTDdvc2q7-7-WiJvE6qHrJ8jx8DFxqTOeQJM5KcA16B0RMb_wHGy7dnwOm7EuX/s1600/P1070138.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTMdstcxUnUXngE0vEwUsnI1a0PTwFw6a2duJPZOLqmywXj3A3OQIZ8f1CuIpgvtF9KZqS3j9jHNOlkQqTDdvc2q7-7-WiJvE6qHrJ8jx8DFxqTOeQJM5KcA16B0RMb_wHGy7dnwOm7EuX/s640/P1070138.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A little easy scramble and Alberto reached the Salvaguardia at 2700 m. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxEkYn7_s02P9oVuxvDHsGWe5eqMLc8VFpY_wxOC0VDRfcuT_19l8_90xtPp6O42Fb8bBHoCXJAiIMRNtBeZD8GCXcvozW606euirK7eVB31kD0yiFyonlzqAvM5R8-jeRSN6nKD8zLc18/s1600/P1070140.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxEkYn7_s02P9oVuxvDHsGWe5eqMLc8VFpY_wxOC0VDRfcuT_19l8_90xtPp6O42Fb8bBHoCXJAiIMRNtBeZD8GCXcvozW606euirK7eVB31kD0yiFyonlzqAvM5R8-jeRSN6nKD8zLc18/s640/P1070140.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Valle de Benasque on the left</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS28wMK2oIdscwXGRPzv6AJ4aT5JdVNTmsPdKfDeBE2N8ciOG_C5fiA4RiD34w3c2fex9kDFHcVc35ITEF9UerJT0GmpGb0PzyscKk6WLYiayGy8bCQrXadoXpj-xJBsDo0MzK1GanNuL2/s1600/P1070152.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS28wMK2oIdscwXGRPzv6AJ4aT5JdVNTmsPdKfDeBE2N8ciOG_C5fiA4RiD34w3c2fex9kDFHcVc35ITEF9UerJT0GmpGb0PzyscKk6WLYiayGy8bCQrXadoXpj-xJBsDo0MzK1GanNuL2/s640/P1070152.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Aneto range to the South</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSLdyrCtSsa_Vgjho35WI5VVxZNtus1zAIFQk4kvNLHZMggF5A4C3vr1whkf_PyvFjkZuNq-DJ78_5kvoBT3bavRy8zoZUkJY3X1WxNnbFB9aMfiG-61yqJkGwFrTKDhch5aXkUsD_sHhX/s1600/P1070168.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSLdyrCtSsa_Vgjho35WI5VVxZNtus1zAIFQk4kvNLHZMggF5A4C3vr1whkf_PyvFjkZuNq-DJ78_5kvoBT3bavRy8zoZUkJY3X1WxNnbFB9aMfiG-61yqJkGwFrTKDhch5aXkUsD_sHhX/s640/P1070168.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Switching back to bikes, we are always impressed by some of the old doors found in the Pyrinean villages</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj97kgpvmbGXk3pgg9jKVF7ETzDkoQcNzv5oJyAluhRWa7BFzHAGS4fbwDp1RKQh2yHkuhvytCWsjyCJpHFUY8VFAZLJiOLF_VWFpHqug_SVib8oWFCOrYp0Lx-vxxqtUUmrFGOIdqnfWo4/s1600/P1070179.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj97kgpvmbGXk3pgg9jKVF7ETzDkoQcNzv5oJyAluhRWa7BFzHAGS4fbwDp1RKQh2yHkuhvytCWsjyCJpHFUY8VFAZLJiOLF_VWFpHqug_SVib8oWFCOrYp0Lx-vxxqtUUmrFGOIdqnfWo4/s640/P1070179.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another loop around the Sierra de Chía, and some of the peaks found along the way</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZObxFSAO9dd1-fGXDLBOVx2kLZ50Lhy4MBG6JORm7j_Z4tQHM19FiMB4w_f6JLDNcgOQ9sjHacBRyRFtamfoRM2wqDq1Ks_oymRsjx3eJ9q-84NisyLlmUII3MwJzpO6PfFmKUtrj_mA0/s1600/P1070188.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZObxFSAO9dd1-fGXDLBOVx2kLZ50Lhy4MBG6JORm7j_Z4tQHM19FiMB4w_f6JLDNcgOQ9sjHacBRyRFtamfoRM2wqDq1Ks_oymRsjx3eJ9q-84NisyLlmUII3MwJzpO6PfFmKUtrj_mA0/s640/P1070188.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">We are most certainly in the best shape of our lives but these rides in the Pyrenees are really tough on us!</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9r-wGM-Zh_7fDcXOBiOouDqwquMzlDNV4kH7S8c_OheAADMlsjTjXPlzzJCYMfyBWohNRZok8JEH_MBOGznbo2AABNX5unJCs6j01oOxgEBPgG1DKdHbArf147UrdDwgzlp1hdvayziIs/s1600/P1070199.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9r-wGM-Zh_7fDcXOBiOouDqwquMzlDNV4kH7S8c_OheAADMlsjTjXPlzzJCYMfyBWohNRZok8JEH_MBOGznbo2AABNX5unJCs6j01oOxgEBPgG1DKdHbArf147UrdDwgzlp1hdvayziIs/s640/P1070199.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trails reminiscent of those in the Andes</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWWSNSHswupf3YVjDZXLIf7Z54N3yylpd6aVlhREgDg0JTCquwUcRnxOTzKovQI1nSMjKrYRlRx5OOXRcM7dU_KV6SBQXjASYFHTESt8ZhWD2jMX9oEDvX9rWQo6ff-ZiOQ7iDAWyRZ4D_/s1600/P1070214.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWWSNSHswupf3YVjDZXLIf7Z54N3yylpd6aVlhREgDg0JTCquwUcRnxOTzKovQI1nSMjKrYRlRx5OOXRcM7dU_KV6SBQXjASYFHTESt8ZhWD2jMX9oEDvX9rWQo6ff-ZiOQ7iDAWyRZ4D_/s640/P1070214.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With the occasional singletrack thrown in</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWQDE1Uw7GSgzPStfsdj0hE_mW2imP2B0S4kZi0hriu8U64uDchvsM4R3Q-7uI3M4E-MhTqJuPkCZqvIxRBDZfSjvfvLch538M7QP7i0Yk3bRTTrzmFJVecLSMaQUQ6Hg_hdqLY9BwRPbA/s1600/P1070249.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWQDE1Uw7GSgzPStfsdj0hE_mW2imP2B0S4kZi0hriu8U64uDchvsM4R3Q-7uI3M4E-MhTqJuPkCZqvIxRBDZfSjvfvLch538M7QP7i0Yk3bRTTrzmFJVecLSMaQUQ6Hg_hdqLY9BwRPbA/s640/P1070249.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Friends Jorge and Fina came out to play for a weekend, so we took them up to an ibón (alpine lake)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7Cx5u-SoNUcJ8Go50naohfIBa8CNORbIAGqFi6zM-3l6jJstLPir2zCGclkVvBh4HFYttKD5gAVZGHvvWD7T2-5vvQJpR6mACtdDRIdaK2YDmqRq0clFDucGJjjGA5g4Wn81eAjwqIcx7/s1600/P1070254.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7Cx5u-SoNUcJ8Go50naohfIBa8CNORbIAGqFi6zM-3l6jJstLPir2zCGclkVvBh4HFYttKD5gAVZGHvvWD7T2-5vvQJpR6mACtdDRIdaK2YDmqRq0clFDucGJjjGA5g4Wn81eAjwqIcx7/s640/P1070254.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coming from the warm city of Valencia, they enjoyed the change of scenery</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio39XVT6BeZBEZLqnd0ge1Msf0GIrODkCd0NA7S0lAKGiXrZviNz7MwDHZNbCCokdWfHJCO0f5xvgqAXP3w94K7Zt3RkfLfq-Q0MJ8k6O6Qo4sljEU_7Gok7Dk0IsLmHUT1e3Lwt3NDzUf/s1600/P1070281.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio39XVT6BeZBEZLqnd0ge1Msf0GIrODkCd0NA7S0lAKGiXrZviNz7MwDHZNbCCokdWfHJCO0f5xvgqAXP3w94K7Zt3RkfLfq-Q0MJ8k6O6Qo4sljEU_7Gok7Dk0IsLmHUT1e3Lwt3NDzUf/s640/P1070281.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With autumn right on us, it was mushroom picking season. We all know this one, right!?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBLYXm8_cJCAGWIrRYiQBy0i_RiA8Uxn5qp75ZrfLbOYDlE-j3k4I-dmSEd96P8AQACNrXmn3F1Yx1F5pP1ieUvT0m1ByY9rr3PDtoyOjnHIombrG3dbBeD2orSz_4tQ1FJzfZjv8ZIzYO/s1600/P1070288.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBLYXm8_cJCAGWIrRYiQBy0i_RiA8Uxn5qp75ZrfLbOYDlE-j3k4I-dmSEd96P8AQACNrXmn3F1Yx1F5pP1ieUvT0m1ByY9rr3PDtoyOjnHIombrG3dbBeD2orSz_4tQ1FJzfZjv8ZIzYO/s640/P1070288.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Having been eating oats for breakfast for several months in a row, we couldn´t help but mention the similarities between these mushroom features and oats</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2tCeOrtYbjjrbv9-ELR9j5FueJlORk2bsucnHuqjsPEew0ha0yvb_-tWzmeEs4MaD9lmUa-dlWLq-Ct0JajzXmmMiLjrSCTuzQiR4MDp5OvdgYfBRvhLuj401GCbS7hHGHJge9rvu5u7O/s1600/P1070294.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2tCeOrtYbjjrbv9-ELR9j5FueJlORk2bsucnHuqjsPEew0ha0yvb_-tWzmeEs4MaD9lmUa-dlWLq-Ct0JajzXmmMiLjrSCTuzQiR4MDp5OvdgYfBRvhLuj401GCbS7hHGHJge9rvu5u7O/s640/P1070294.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Still lushy green, but not for long</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgktIyg9dvwDzFTKeLdgxpP57boxIFrKb7GVTx36_dK09BtvUZrsOTGrXi7AW8XlxD-Hw5CqCevijK3by8LhDqDdQnIM5oAaebsVxye_IcAzKYoPnOWDkIjZuJPRxJTlpEwV8MDqDU2M1Rc/s1600/P1070297.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgktIyg9dvwDzFTKeLdgxpP57boxIFrKb7GVTx36_dK09BtvUZrsOTGrXi7AW8XlxD-Hw5CqCevijK3by8LhDqDdQnIM5oAaebsVxye_IcAzKYoPnOWDkIjZuJPRxJTlpEwV8MDqDU2M1Rc/s640/P1070297.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Casa de Conques, a historic place near Benasque</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHDLbtISlhnq7g6rVJn_Nx-hC5W4Sn25hmGC_r69ZqzEipSOD-SO8P0sEngt_nmCCgeXch3ay8rEmCPH45dfAq69qPO1Z42bJrUVw3fmdhuA8JZqzp4nJmetplZ-8mKcPTDZjHEfDzniTe/s1600/P1070300.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHDLbtISlhnq7g6rVJn_Nx-hC5W4Sn25hmGC_r69ZqzEipSOD-SO8P0sEngt_nmCCgeXch3ay8rEmCPH45dfAq69qPO1Z42bJrUVw3fmdhuA8JZqzp4nJmetplZ-8mKcPTDZjHEfDzniTe/s640/P1070300.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizicI9ozLP3qV0eD4bpeLGNQBL9SGLLi9glP9hNk33EsYi0OjAfdFn7FIWApj1OTa0r1eYP85AiuBWxPGqzRtwzdCk8do4OpjALat1JgEIwa475PwcbgYvSm1PQuiXYtNiIu3z65N43ks9/s1600/P1070307.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizicI9ozLP3qV0eD4bpeLGNQBL9SGLLi9glP9hNk33EsYi0OjAfdFn7FIWApj1OTa0r1eYP85AiuBWxPGqzRtwzdCk8do4OpjALat1JgEIwa475PwcbgYvSm1PQuiXYtNiIu3z65N43ks9/s640/P1070307.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhggv1qRC_ximb6bZyW2LY1hrk9v23_0aWsjQeFiJi0ntHbcDpJqu4xRyAZgCmxT03oN9mtsrCdbzZEX3nhH4eiUbfRWZMCfT7seSnTyaqNo1Xlx7XiD52j-VpwxN6c1GtqeZ2_cXXNsmeZ/s1600/P1070345.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhggv1qRC_ximb6bZyW2LY1hrk9v23_0aWsjQeFiJi0ntHbcDpJqu4xRyAZgCmxT03oN9mtsrCdbzZEX3nhH4eiUbfRWZMCfT7seSnTyaqNo1Xlx7XiD52j-VpwxN6c1GtqeZ2_cXXNsmeZ/s640/P1070345.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some more singletrack puts Lucy to practise her skills</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfyNk9VzXpxgVR29iISaDFEUMN5vNkIiZbU9LOfHtvZdn3cqUjT8sOCuDxWwuuznQx3BPTHyfItGw-4r2ZiUgQEd4Uf8a1GG77fXHKXPFM4PJ95O2aai02jnq3J5B0TRLPClUEgIoDgyZK/s1600/P1070475.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfyNk9VzXpxgVR29iISaDFEUMN5vNkIiZbU9LOfHtvZdn3cqUjT8sOCuDxWwuuznQx3BPTHyfItGw-4r2ZiUgQEd4Uf8a1GG77fXHKXPFM4PJ95O2aai02jnq3J5B0TRLPClUEgIoDgyZK/s640/P1070475.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Switching to backpacks once again, we aim for Ibón de Cregüeña to overnight there</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPz8SMNAk9GK6UlKoPVDtzon2hwlY0oOgu3UtDt97p62Eo53eBvxVluxphHQqrYwj4Pjyj3QWn84HrLfUW7ieRG2JqKp_FvcSOGQtBJsDVeeCNHcfGELFYoDv6L4AQyMBxL9kgFc3gKuY3/s1600/P1070479.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPz8SMNAk9GK6UlKoPVDtzon2hwlY0oOgu3UtDt97p62Eo53eBvxVluxphHQqrYwj4Pjyj3QWn84HrLfUW7ieRG2JqKp_FvcSOGQtBJsDVeeCNHcfGELFYoDv6L4AQyMBxL9kgFc3gKuY3/s640/P1070479.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiking up some boulders</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFIqVgDTdUKK0lfTCX4OpGNNlVZt8Ktb7OBMmgu0slnLqSfjqLxDs02bdc8IKRdVDB4oYDhst0tqAHFRW9DiXnYmBQXcuwEOMVNBfAJznSh_KEG6G51JTzfE6337zEGyqzi-BRmsmEbczQ/s1600/P1070483.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFIqVgDTdUKK0lfTCX4OpGNNlVZt8Ktb7OBMmgu0slnLqSfjqLxDs02bdc8IKRdVDB4oYDhst0tqAHFRW9DiXnYmBQXcuwEOMVNBfAJznSh_KEG6G51JTzfE6337zEGyqzi-BRmsmEbczQ/s640/P1070483.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Upon reaching the lake, snow starts coming down hard on us, followed by an electric storm. Both not ideal conditions, so we retrace our steps and camp lower down</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYhYM0eAXSIdiWKkmj04UPOlQQ6rEGj5_NibdMGqVOenc1frmuBZhyphenhypheng8-FmQ3gk3N_sO7VOJk0ep9kLT4ymEy95IEVt0DWOtkPUU-Jv05qWFAUaRPzmh1udCj4TdRWLo6u88Y39HO_puEB/s1600/P1070487.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYhYM0eAXSIdiWKkmj04UPOlQQ6rEGj5_NibdMGqVOenc1frmuBZhyphenhypheng8-FmQ3gk3N_sO7VOJk0ep9kLT4ymEy95IEVt0DWOtkPUU-Jv05qWFAUaRPzmh1udCj4TdRWLo6u88Y39HO_puEB/s640/P1070487.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The following morning we decide to join a mushroom picking free class organised by the folks of the village of Sahún. Here´s a winner <i>Boletus edulis</i> (aka ceps, porcini or simply boletus) with locally made deer <i>chorizo</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg45Cr-uLj2QAeMpLyJXgXgv3bct-yH_VYO1Al_HubhITEA3Mekbt6AFhArPAQnZ9673545PbJK6REbnirYrfxQGo4gr2b9vtPxZ4n0ghJM1MemI9mKPwWWpTM78PcDtKNSJrtCyMjiHb_z/s1600/P1070495.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg45Cr-uLj2QAeMpLyJXgXgv3bct-yH_VYO1Al_HubhITEA3Mekbt6AFhArPAQnZ9673545PbJK6REbnirYrfxQGo4gr2b9vtPxZ4n0ghJM1MemI9mKPwWWpTM78PcDtKNSJrtCyMjiHb_z/s640/P1070495.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the evening, an expert identifies more than half dozen mushroom that we picked up during the day</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyFsWk7MBx5JgBYoa8rLRFHJDB9mZzc6BRy7V9D2_mgmgKNURTyqzagx3JkvJdeTqCyov4NJSdR_Ea9cadt0xskm313LzXysQi47Au7EO-oiQqCuHhUsFzkN7DFuFTk-nwIJoEl1cFujLX/s1600/P1070502.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyFsWk7MBx5JgBYoa8rLRFHJDB9mZzc6BRy7V9D2_mgmgKNURTyqzagx3JkvJdeTqCyov4NJSdR_Ea9cadt0xskm313LzXysQi47Au7EO-oiQqCuHhUsFzkN7DFuFTk-nwIJoEl1cFujLX/s640/P1070502.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just before turning back to Madrid and prepare for our move to Vancouver, we hiked up to El Turbón. </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC_ysmY82xs4CVWIHFKrVeqy1pcb8sVDXHfaurNhetJS2v71-lV_a1C0px3EDvw0WecvbA8299KaaQbYbxz0hgNqltWqqrrkgPdcEaoQgLe1jprR-rHevxL2fnRvHhDyH0f4rLcRtCn0iP/s1600/P1070508.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC_ysmY82xs4CVWIHFKrVeqy1pcb8sVDXHfaurNhetJS2v71-lV_a1C0px3EDvw0WecvbA8299KaaQbYbxz0hgNqltWqqrrkgPdcEaoQgLe1jprR-rHevxL2fnRvHhDyH0f4rLcRtCn0iP/s640/P1070508.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Met some foggy conditions on the way up</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht8BtHO-0XsbaebqKpDAgdqg_S__uPREXyAJGSJWjYebWgzOUtdZUYZ6Pm62SRkIWGats3MMdqnFG4ohDyOYgcq7CA3zbJKPIHDILOdl_xXZe6eD9m7eaiJP4hjYRI2bOOnNZ4M7jiOif7/s1600/P1070518.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht8BtHO-0XsbaebqKpDAgdqg_S__uPREXyAJGSJWjYebWgzOUtdZUYZ6Pm62SRkIWGats3MMdqnFG4ohDyOYgcq7CA3zbJKPIHDILOdl_xXZe6eD9m7eaiJP4hjYRI2bOOnNZ4M7jiOif7/s640/P1070518.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And eventually hit the summit in near 0 temperatures and heavy rain. Happy faces all around for a wonderful time in the Pyrinees. Until next time. See you Spain!</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-91026657795206759802016-01-02T04:56:00.001+00:002016-01-02T19:13:53.076+00:00Eureka MT to Calgary AB via the Great Divide Mountain Biking Route: A grand finale<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Having long ago bought tickets out of Calgary to head back to Europe, by the time we got to Eureka, Montana we were still pretty conflicted about it and fantasized about turning right instead of left (south instead of north). But it was not to be, it was time to start wrapping up our year and a half of cycling in the Americas. We would join the Great Divide Mountain Biking Route (GDMBR) north to Banff, Alberta as our grand finale. The Canada section is rumored to be the most beautiful of the entire GDMBR (which stretches from Banff to the Mexican border), so we tried to let that fact comfort us as we finally admitted to ourselves that it was all coming to an end...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinU9ii5U5dtBhhMB7bDlqJNlfQzRojp6qPsRbkpyZy2x4XA8_ofYSdnuVSIXgFduExyBsqsui7cuMvbSN0k6wGLydxQJ_N1SXGlQzrA0JZUtAGPDIDatUOEcLYFy2FMRogQQ59PwQiE0mv/s1600/P1060843.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinU9ii5U5dtBhhMB7bDlqJNlfQzRojp6qPsRbkpyZy2x4XA8_ofYSdnuVSIXgFduExyBsqsui7cuMvbSN0k6wGLydxQJ_N1SXGlQzrA0JZUtAGPDIDatUOEcLYFy2FMRogQQ59PwQiE0mv/s640/P1060843.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">By this time we are old pros at planning multiple days without shops - although having to hang a bear bag with four days of food did get interesting...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDosKr2sO_7QoF0PU1i_eeU-_DMzIefZz8oqnil3S0Ul0rIwQ-ONk9mOQBFZRjgnMPQUkBvD3qfSmY41yW8NedEfgZtz58yYA7sMAUjlomGSlH2c1SQsl-mXDCTr18dmnguLUq_ewAimo_/s1600/P1060850.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDosKr2sO_7QoF0PU1i_eeU-_DMzIefZz8oqnil3S0Ul0rIwQ-ONk9mOQBFZRjgnMPQUkBvD3qfSmY41yW8NedEfgZtz58yYA7sMAUjlomGSlH2c1SQsl-mXDCTr18dmnguLUq_ewAimo_/s640/P1060850.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We set off from Eureka towards the Canadian border a few hours' ride away.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHQK4y4blxPP6K5LVzPYpFqojv5I6mCWAG-Lulf6Ggl3f61Zh1PXH1D0L-PNPhh63ZIjVMRuMwG-Z6U0eturJgFlIk_xkZywDI514eRGpV40qQLm720LF9gSl5J8JWc-rVWtRiFgAG0fj0/s1600/P1060852.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHQK4y4blxPP6K5LVzPYpFqojv5I6mCWAG-Lulf6Ggl3f61Zh1PXH1D0L-PNPhh63ZIjVMRuMwG-Z6U0eturJgFlIk_xkZywDI514eRGpV40qQLm720LF9gSl5J8JWc-rVWtRiFgAG0fj0/s640/P1060852.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bus-sized campervans towing rather large cars - yep, we're in Canada again (and this is the smaller sibling of what we saw most of the time!)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIH-q91Fet65zyIHEx2E8ocnHiSwKglL3ILpZU10uXeOeIrWwfKyIWUD9Rn1MOQ5_CpDwB7kyCILJPdXe5UBXpSpPiVUTHEOugDrk7lIEIgDoLPoa7qxR51AbJUrqtBeMBip4WBcXDDL5h/s1600/P1060859.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIH-q91Fet65zyIHEx2E8ocnHiSwKglL3ILpZU10uXeOeIrWwfKyIWUD9Rn1MOQ5_CpDwB7kyCILJPdXe5UBXpSpPiVUTHEOugDrk7lIEIgDoLPoa7qxR51AbJUrqtBeMBip4WBcXDDL5h/s640/P1060859.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No sooner do we cross the border do we find ourselves on some classic dirt road tracks, courtesy of the GDMBR.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJqe8IhgQ7aSczNLzbHw9Q_SEYZQ34uP9BdxyKu5hVr-9vIb54BPrKWc_ZD7OMHtJ0M0EXXnF61s9SrLsJRyStaih1Vi3_6hwIsrYHl-NQPIjcnmI_SpF_JhBYQBvGzhydOgggqZSb5j0T/s1600/P1060862.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJqe8IhgQ7aSczNLzbHw9Q_SEYZQ34uP9BdxyKu5hVr-9vIb54BPrKWc_ZD7OMHtJ0M0EXXnF61s9SrLsJRyStaih1Vi3_6hwIsrYHl-NQPIjcnmI_SpF_JhBYQBvGzhydOgggqZSb5j0T/s640/P1060862.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful wildflowers bloom in these hills</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1X-9HpPTLeIDTwZSQRkDyTp42ygu5LyI3IXRfD2O_FdcJjEuIh0McOTc1WxKnlaPl7iScQMmkHZewTMj6StJG0b0t0PIfumrQSmpf5s60pIb97V42qTgarQ6jImTqfLqCb8c299Av_ZLZ/s1600/P1060867.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1X-9HpPTLeIDTwZSQRkDyTp42ygu5LyI3IXRfD2O_FdcJjEuIh0McOTc1WxKnlaPl7iScQMmkHZewTMj6StJG0b0t0PIfumrQSmpf5s60pIb97V42qTgarQ6jImTqfLqCb8c299Av_ZLZ/s640/P1060867.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After cresting our first pass of the trip we descend again on virtually traffic-free roads...into the Flathead Valley (known as the Grizzly highway cause it has the highest grizzly concentration of North America apparently)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmn3z7YXxrYI-e5z_opw5f7HH6rQm_ky2k4sgsv3hGkPBAtFaTtRIvP2rWsfZus2KvAdYv7dCjf7sTUJtRTgbOPAHbTOC297fSmx0JHwo81rvq3hcNt8mC-6T5Qdh_d-VdffYbBheu7FpS/s1600/P1060877.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmn3z7YXxrYI-e5z_opw5f7HH6rQm_ky2k4sgsv3hGkPBAtFaTtRIvP2rWsfZus2KvAdYv7dCjf7sTUJtRTgbOPAHbTOC297fSmx0JHwo81rvq3hcNt8mC-6T5Qdh_d-VdffYbBheu7FpS/s640/P1060877.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and eventually hit the bike-hike section that will connect us to another forest service road - it's little unmapped connectors like these that make the GDMBR a proper route instead of just a bunch of dirt roads you could follow yourself.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg18LOr0jGb5BnM02A5GhBYqK8YZLNiwhyphenhyphengdF9exLpi762v1zbWUtYBmoyusGlXQCYQwSoH9WzoRulRlOM0a6QK3QPgSzByay1Jq5rdT1NLUOY77sf2bLvzQ4-a4b_jYRQ0B3V_QijKmnF4/s1600/P1060885.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg18LOr0jGb5BnM02A5GhBYqK8YZLNiwhyphenhyphengdF9exLpi762v1zbWUtYBmoyusGlXQCYQwSoH9WzoRulRlOM0a6QK3QPgSzByay1Jq5rdT1NLUOY77sf2bLvzQ4-a4b_jYRQ0B3V_QijKmnF4/s640/P1060885.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The path is beautiful, if slow-going.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgph_HCBW43VoOmNoIHdkx_EF9qwQmWUbz48rBg_HffHFlN7aoxU91IlK6hjbZF3fM_KbBUlaK0uaLubi8H3bAiiO9jiRDxQhkbtkyuuuQq4-d9-WXgB-_wMB58y7LWTiIUN8oTkUpTISbL/s1600/P1060887.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgph_HCBW43VoOmNoIHdkx_EF9qwQmWUbz48rBg_HffHFlN7aoxU91IlK6hjbZF3fM_KbBUlaK0uaLubi8H3bAiiO9jiRDxQhkbtkyuuuQq4-d9-WXgB-_wMB58y7LWTiIUN8oTkUpTISbL/s640/P1060887.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We do wonder what would happen if we came across a bear in these woods!? We (Lucy) sang loudly...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0kWnvDu_RvJVw-Y-mUSigU82cX6lfj2f_EVfjBusP2NHjTEzRM4tPrgsJAGBsBtKiNJhSbRfyaJDstSokezabCwZAIlBA-O32nOcCMTctzgcHsaMS_ckx-3Y7xLc2Iqs-ZXQ1qNYw_mTU/s1600/P1060890.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0kWnvDu_RvJVw-Y-mUSigU82cX6lfj2f_EVfjBusP2NHjTEzRM4tPrgsJAGBsBtKiNJhSbRfyaJDstSokezabCwZAIlBA-O32nOcCMTctzgcHsaMS_ckx-3Y7xLc2Iqs-ZXQ1qNYw_mTU/s640/P1060890.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally, road again!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2NKCnHnHiodXYHNtCv2j253DJtiRMQi7kD-uFNX_pcQUMjzyCO45VtRO2d2qlPvUSzl1seLR1e7BFbNMdY7-0xVSKfyFJC8O-oIZ9Wd7Ln3sWJYdlo44ZapN_El_QhdJlhTJ6VPoItfpF/s1600/P1060896.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2NKCnHnHiodXYHNtCv2j253DJtiRMQi7kD-uFNX_pcQUMjzyCO45VtRO2d2qlPvUSzl1seLR1e7BFbNMdY7-0xVSKfyFJC8O-oIZ9Wd7Ln3sWJYdlo44ZapN_El_QhdJlhTJ6VPoItfpF/s640/P1060896.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We pedal into the dusk, looking for a place to camp with adequate trees for food cache hanging. Coming around a bend we see a rather large black bear running away from us (having been frightened by Lucy's singing). Now we DEFINITELY want to find a good camp spot for hanging the food!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWEfaCxa47O5JAXUntpU5Av3RC4S5ateIudOJhEfYNZRmRZWwz_TRP7HR420Nblu8D673luVNq0Yso1me-YlUCN08I_wLaPiHVtwS8ZGnaWN03WvqVhw-KBE6GlswxwsAIAIumrK6tjOLR/s1600/P1060899.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWEfaCxa47O5JAXUntpU5Av3RC4S5ateIudOJhEfYNZRmRZWwz_TRP7HR420Nblu8D673luVNq0Yso1me-YlUCN08I_wLaPiHVtwS8ZGnaWN03WvqVhw-KBE6GlswxwsAIAIumrK6tjOLR/s640/P1060899.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Can't complain about the scenery though.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaDa137sAc7e2mlyeYDjQXHRKtD_jGXOa-eK1hWY4Ujw57LNarllQaoCkRnWMPiyPpToQ45HjFDD2SB-tIg3DCVOM0Jt-1ejJhXG7adXmrJnswtqAZWM2-2vsfqTEGkTY9SSgIUavSzAro/s1600/P1060905.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaDa137sAc7e2mlyeYDjQXHRKtD_jGXOa-eK1hWY4Ujw57LNarllQaoCkRnWMPiyPpToQ45HjFDD2SB-tIg3DCVOM0Jt-1ejJhXG7adXmrJnswtqAZWM2-2vsfqTEGkTY9SSgIUavSzAro/s640/P1060905.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After a free camp in one of the BC Forest Service campgrounds we are on our way again in the morning. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTtUmq37TddMeBRia7rFTNNPPpaUWQ0gx2-s-ueGtuNL_tq-hsm6-VT-qjgoWrYtYJmn2aOF-BOcoypADeKkPMAHxrzbbGBSp_pA5x_uaoqBAM6XyJqDm6nMyMTD-ZUHauXhj9UwjZWpsh/s1600/P1060914.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTtUmq37TddMeBRia7rFTNNPPpaUWQ0gx2-s-ueGtuNL_tq-hsm6-VT-qjgoWrYtYJmn2aOF-BOcoypADeKkPMAHxrzbbGBSp_pA5x_uaoqBAM6XyJqDm6nMyMTD-ZUHauXhj9UwjZWpsh/s640/P1060914.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We pass Butts cabin, a hunter's shelter, and have a bite to eat before carrying on. We knew it was legal (after you pay a ton of cash) to shoot bears in Canada...but here we see proof that it´s a big deal to bag a few bears in one day.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD7RRMgGgIV0A1n2YxloDo5wfyTz6ae5QOaihgBNrbFESmX9e9ZfpZuXH6pt5rv9ED0ah5E_Wqs7HObApEWNhk9_kGgSQHRvkRM0NIC2lLcw-0EyCVNAuhiI7eIqzTsAbzvAXg9FFJv6-Z/s1600/P1060918.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD7RRMgGgIV0A1n2YxloDo5wfyTz6ae5QOaihgBNrbFESmX9e9ZfpZuXH6pt5rv9ED0ah5E_Wqs7HObApEWNhk9_kGgSQHRvkRM0NIC2lLcw-0EyCVNAuhiI7eIqzTsAbzvAXg9FFJv6-Z/s640/P1060918.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The views get better and better.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYaGJNddgtSWghbcv8yycJOoQI6nJyBDTwczPvbgOwOM_qRknq7jIJMHKPYE65Pr-_b-jRkLvdDNxYX-3KEFAKrjh1YyVY7gHnXndX1v8ZhUvIVSmG0R3IH7e2uWyPYAvWKd6WYB2jaDNG/s1600/P1060925.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYaGJNddgtSWghbcv8yycJOoQI6nJyBDTwczPvbgOwOM_qRknq7jIJMHKPYE65Pr-_b-jRkLvdDNxYX-3KEFAKrjh1YyVY7gHnXndX1v8ZhUvIVSmG0R3IH7e2uWyPYAvWKd6WYB2jaDNG/s640/P1060925.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The next day, we spot this guy while having a late lunch. We had planned to camp right about where he was standing! One of the beauties of bike touring is the ability to change plans rapidly!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS6sDaGa-UQ6bB4gZl9neKBGEsGF06z33UYeY1cNPWaTVnM62r4CDW8wMyVZoGXLmFUhkE0i6wFgHP99oPctkMq1m9oNii86I7qVKXjoEfpPiBlL041bXkcOjxOaYaU1iMwVV3rwmjREBZ/s1600/P1060936.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS6sDaGa-UQ6bB4gZl9neKBGEsGF06z33UYeY1cNPWaTVnM62r4CDW8wMyVZoGXLmFUhkE0i6wFgHP99oPctkMq1m9oNii86I7qVKXjoEfpPiBlL041bXkcOjxOaYaU1iMwVV3rwmjREBZ/s640/P1060936.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Around this point we notice a bad crack in Lucy's rear rim - it's a cheapie that we got in Cajamarca, Peru. This means we have to find a way to a bike shop - not convenient! </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjOKEIsyLPlfRW6CvjCXCDDkWCeJKVRsVaRBZd0-5-f6s_nQ_qiwSmna6dsi8YV60tMGsyG6MdS42eZYmleTAoC0Io87zlyCrGDYO2ApW6Oezavaehyphenhypheni6dSveyTRe0anbEGMFAI7zlC3v3/s1600/P1060948.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjOKEIsyLPlfRW6CvjCXCDDkWCeJKVRsVaRBZd0-5-f6s_nQ_qiwSmna6dsi8YV60tMGsyG6MdS42eZYmleTAoC0Io87zlyCrGDYO2ApW6Oezavaehyphenhypheni6dSveyTRe0anbEGMFAI7zlC3v3/s640/P1060948.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First we have to pass through the coal mine at Corbin... later when we fly out of Calgary all our equipment will test positive for explosives because of this!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0DaOrENqR446xtsNG7_LvqhqqAt90jZAM-HcCpgcKCuTQ6YKyq7U-3OqyGxi-GxGG5Ucma3LlC9n7bL_k1y2VEl4LW-drQVphhIkK8ISAvD-QJrY4YiSuvxxmnbg7N8vK6ALquOmQaTd5/s1600/P1060954.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0DaOrENqR446xtsNG7_LvqhqqAt90jZAM-HcCpgcKCuTQ6YKyq7U-3OqyGxi-GxGG5Ucma3LlC9n7bL_k1y2VEl4LW-drQVphhIkK8ISAvD-QJrY4YiSuvxxmnbg7N8vK6ALquOmQaTd5/s640/P1060954.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We head into Sparwood on pavement which is kind to Lucy's back tire. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2SVY2GbbZo4FlQ-sKbccCUhxxfFn_bJLoAC97wyaOgXPliNoU7oPDt7Z4VhAmMeGmaEg_YRuSyNxhUcsEYFVdWmP7EPGmyBOAvhqxEGKD6KJ60FLWl1tc8L4LFU1QNB-rsLZakfrWO99O/s1600/P1060957.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2SVY2GbbZo4FlQ-sKbccCUhxxfFn_bJLoAC97wyaOgXPliNoU7oPDt7Z4VhAmMeGmaEg_YRuSyNxhUcsEYFVdWmP7EPGmyBOAvhqxEGKD6KJ60FLWl1tc8L4LFU1QNB-rsLZakfrWO99O/s640/P1060957.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sparwood is mainly known for its massive truck, but it's also the first town in four days and conveniently located not too far from Fernie, a town with plenty of bike shops.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO-7fkvggZOS-dtqfPlf0DrU63jeQbkGhuZonoptuyoMnrywbrIYcl5s9A73KTdoUsnPSvAIrdB2x9qRFYM9Iis-eDPoH7vd-WGiqKrja2Du0IkCKxjyzmjorDJhGAYiLy0Er63G_Rts-c/s1600/P1060965.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO-7fkvggZOS-dtqfPlf0DrU63jeQbkGhuZonoptuyoMnrywbrIYcl5s9A73KTdoUsnPSvAIrdB2x9qRFYM9Iis-eDPoH7vd-WGiqKrja2Du0IkCKxjyzmjorDJhGAYiLy0Er63G_Rts-c/s640/P1060965.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We hitch a ride to Fernie (5 minutes of cycling on highway 3 is enough to convince us to wait for a pickup and fortunately we strike it lucky quickly enough). It costs us a day's riding but we manage to get a used, UCI approved rim.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-wpLnRa-let2mAXvRFRxH6IroCdGKNn4Tte4upCMJVIuYe-P_LRADK36SUQeQLi7Z8L91fb8I57XtXXN4Yv6vqgdGQAGrRmyHZU9M0ct6s-NrSpuFJQhnFVf4EEXFMzjCVTZP485qA3wN/s1600/P1060975.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-wpLnRa-let2mAXvRFRxH6IroCdGKNn4Tte4upCMJVIuYe-P_LRADK36SUQeQLi7Z8L91fb8I57XtXXN4Yv6vqgdGQAGrRmyHZU9M0ct6s-NrSpuFJQhnFVf4EEXFMzjCVTZP485qA3wN/s640/P1060975.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back on the trail there are berries all around. Alberto is delighted as it means he can eat them. Lucy is terrified as berries mean bears!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDQFyoCSC5-9mCQ3V-FPr52kzqp8xZJY_srKGAQD7IjVPXf38Sj2Sl-nw9MnYGfd18iSASspqhR4iN6SntTwqIRUiLAiuD81_qmYQWbbZ_WFe6ew3BP-BzyPBT7C5ELAchNT5q0VrYfJtD/s1600/P1060994.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDQFyoCSC5-9mCQ3V-FPr52kzqp8xZJY_srKGAQD7IjVPXf38Sj2Sl-nw9MnYGfd18iSASspqhR4iN6SntTwqIRUiLAiuD81_qmYQWbbZ_WFe6ew3BP-BzyPBT7C5ELAchNT5q0VrYfJtD/s640/P1060994.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We had thought about making it to this cabin to sleep but on our way up the pass a driver tells us he has just seen a grizzly mom and cubs by this cabin. So we stop to camp lower down, and make an almighty racket when we pass by the next morning.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiZSUb0WOEsSwZ3G7IqOqq7g4KGWfKLwaN6U0vIeakwpHnJpZllv7t7IZz84Sc0S79RaejaFxXCvXf80sUiPA2QyO9Ph8i_QLIj4BRVzq1i9Sau_mVx7eAf7Mg9d7W_7AxIdxuqfC3f4X6/s1600/P1060996.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiZSUb0WOEsSwZ3G7IqOqq7g4KGWfKLwaN6U0vIeakwpHnJpZllv7t7IZz84Sc0S79RaejaFxXCvXf80sUiPA2QyO9Ph8i_QLIj4BRVzq1i9Sau_mVx7eAf7Mg9d7W_7AxIdxuqfC3f4X6/s640/P1060996.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching Banff National Park the views open up.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1eb3qFBpAVxhAkGYC9vDRw28BrVpU5gzjVKgLJ0SBYfMT1t8cLVNq4vHCaKGBTlRl02Cz6h-SBIGqPg8Z2WbEmugF7BAZU8-s9I9ukw3H2i8Vrgq44kZFWx-v_Qg2jw5MWxblz_s5ThXS/s1600/P1060998.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1eb3qFBpAVxhAkGYC9vDRw28BrVpU5gzjVKgLJ0SBYfMT1t8cLVNq4vHCaKGBTlRl02Cz6h-SBIGqPg8Z2WbEmugF7BAZU8-s9I9ukw3H2i8Vrgq44kZFWx-v_Qg2jw5MWxblz_s5ThXS/s640/P1060998.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We feel very privileged to be riding through such beautiful areas.</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTgpY5sZzImJA7VoXFWT8wDLiRsxAGYCyo7LzJ0EP38NXTWrlF4ZcYGUV34GT2EKHt0NJwVmtNu5b3C04Qw2L9aYQ7i6SxcGoFvrH_BzGRpRjol8YFbHta2va1BIXHJUfkI4WHY8aRY7S3/s1600/P1070010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTgpY5sZzImJA7VoXFWT8wDLiRsxAGYCyo7LzJ0EP38NXTWrlF4ZcYGUV34GT2EKHt0NJwVmtNu5b3C04Qw2L9aYQ7i6SxcGoFvrH_BzGRpRjol8YFbHta2va1BIXHJUfkI4WHY8aRY7S3/s640/P1070010.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Zsqg1cgxOng2eJL4KEyJrRdKf7Hv6a7BWCsZMOYnyfKFm8ZN6jNALIzmd4zfr9hrxoxtIpqdpm9xxlTmY_uxwJfcRoeQJzcpQX5ZrX4sGDFPAD9utn96P6tbMLeGp4xpQ6d9Mxz8CM67/s1600/P1070019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3Zsqg1cgxOng2eJL4KEyJrRdKf7Hv6a7BWCsZMOYnyfKFm8ZN6jNALIzmd4zfr9hrxoxtIpqdpm9xxlTmY_uxwJfcRoeQJzcpQX5ZrX4sGDFPAD9utn96P6tbMLeGp4xpQ6d9Mxz8CM67/s640/P1070019.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our last night on the GDMBR we meet Joe, a Brit heading in the opposite direction. It's camp o'clock anyway so we camp together, sharing stories and tips in the way that only cycle tourists can.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQw5WEODmezuUiM-OTBhnmac0MM7EZtbdYQVmxkJ8xi7n3wepQmATHhqasph8LEfVoy-cJR9_xEvGqj5XTeq8rJjCT4iR1egc7-GNTo6hRkcGR0cr2FMsQE2EAHEDvuLod2NdvCnex-Klw/s1600/P1070026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQw5WEODmezuUiM-OTBhnmac0MM7EZtbdYQVmxkJ8xi7n3wepQmATHhqasph8LEfVoy-cJR9_xEvGqj5XTeq8rJjCT4iR1egc7-GNTo6hRkcGR0cr2FMsQE2EAHEDvuLod2NdvCnex-Klw/s640/P1070026.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After so much time on remote forest roads it is somewhat shocking to arrive in tourist-trap Banff. How some people come to Banff just to stay at this pretentious fortress-looking hotel...something worth a PhD thesis</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin4ZqTvpU_Ydq-G-uXnSof7cTJuocWpYw1pelTL1iYqglvWYDhQhlk2_QrhOY2HQlwX16plaBdQhVjSGtOatHrse_QQZwBHfn-SwOwra2TpaSJlTd9V6XhjjQCHgFC-08lsh7J7Nfd-Jnl/s1600/P1070032.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin4ZqTvpU_Ydq-G-uXnSof7cTJuocWpYw1pelTL1iYqglvWYDhQhlk2_QrhOY2HQlwX16plaBdQhVjSGtOatHrse_QQZwBHfn-SwOwra2TpaSJlTd9V6XhjjQCHgFC-08lsh7J7Nfd-Jnl/s640/P1070032.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A separated cycle lane mercifully takes us to Canmore, a more real town than Banff. We get dinner and camp somewhere hidden from the road on what would be our very last night of cycle touring. The next day we passed through Cochrane, a suburb of Calgary that has nothing but new developments...and shares its name with Cochrane in Southern Chile, definitely a rather more interesting place on the Carretera Austral.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiekpDkyEz7dkyBFNf1bwjdSFxIHPlAOgfm1FmkWwGW1i-H_HJwjSm9bzfNc1LAyr0ovNA8Wsi_T-l3ReLiWP2ce1FVBNN-ZeUaL4EqLHktnVDLWLCXzWcj0k96KnjuOxGPoA_BroBxIKR8/s1600/P1070035.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiekpDkyEz7dkyBFNf1bwjdSFxIHPlAOgfm1FmkWwGW1i-H_HJwjSm9bzfNc1LAyr0ovNA8Wsi_T-l3ReLiWP2ce1FVBNN-ZeUaL4EqLHktnVDLWLCXzWcj0k96KnjuOxGPoA_BroBxIKR8/s640/P1070035.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At some point we are sure we've truly reached Alberta (although we've been in the province a few days already) when we start seeing nodding donkeys in every backyard. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk_4jjCDKJPPK1TqNpKfK9-UfGmZ9tyOlghcDgq2-FlUvIW2NsXhfcq2OwAnECa4JnAIRUZ8DOyFLlJGhQAsoWTUM87KiK0ypeaXfrqs-6E8zjz-GJjFdxh5KnOSgAIuUDTv-Fiqp_-Gb1/s1600/P1070046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk_4jjCDKJPPK1TqNpKfK9-UfGmZ9tyOlghcDgq2-FlUvIW2NsXhfcq2OwAnECa4JnAIRUZ8DOyFLlJGhQAsoWTUM87KiK0ypeaXfrqs-6E8zjz-GJjFdxh5KnOSgAIuUDTv-Fiqp_-Gb1/s640/P1070046.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our kind warmshowers hosts in Calgary take us with them on a hike in the Lake Louise area.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTdXiULAUulIi5gxm34v6ofD4qAleC4H_mJTgTj1nzBJvhQkUkqlRB4ijqefwSS95sj2GOnkTkPl9m9tbDyF1t9n3SPyZMkogAyEivfm44kKM3Y5GDC__mGJfUko1emyDA1U1K3D1UW-EB/s1600/P1070058.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTdXiULAUulIi5gxm34v6ofD4qAleC4H_mJTgTj1nzBJvhQkUkqlRB4ijqefwSS95sj2GOnkTkPl9m9tbDyF1t9n3SPyZMkogAyEivfm44kKM3Y5GDC__mGJfUko1emyDA1U1K3D1UW-EB/s640/P1070058.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We're glad to go with people who know the trails and take us to a pretty quiet one, so close to the crowds of Lake Louise. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg50EkHZW8qXabKhfSArALZe_f3k0UlO9l8FKIow9-a2F-g4A-huYN-gnFn20Lvhgzk64-TWgaHXUi9DH1t5jWcSto9DHAB52qiSiehsCo7JiIjyQnnqniwqBJLJb9i04jHk2n6uy8vBTll/s1600/P1070060.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg50EkHZW8qXabKhfSArALZe_f3k0UlO9l8FKIow9-a2F-g4A-huYN-gnFn20Lvhgzk64-TWgaHXUi9DH1t5jWcSto9DHAB52qiSiehsCo7JiIjyQnnqniwqBJLJb9i04jHk2n6uy8vBTll/s640/P1070060.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We stop by the touristy parts too just to say we've seen them.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGRxoEGoor-3uHNysjpaMJumSP7eyerClO7JYWSPCbSq6Yb4UMJr_MUwJ9KH4BcKLfS2vLR330akG1KMrqxauycmsJMXXvI5vv7l1Jyvq2oQvl6cDcEX3cD95NPxQRPWWbWSpnakBSUYte/s1600/P1070075.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGRxoEGoor-3uHNysjpaMJumSP7eyerClO7JYWSPCbSq6Yb4UMJr_MUwJ9KH4BcKLfS2vLR330akG1KMrqxauycmsJMXXvI5vv7l1Jyvq2oQvl6cDcEX3cD95NPxQRPWWbWSpnakBSUYte/s640/P1070075.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And soon it's time to put the bikes on the plane again! An anticlimactic end to the journey but all good things come to an end. Until next time...maybe Central Asia?</td></tr>
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<br />Albertohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15789158563391048740noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-22266967571123500702015-12-22T04:44:00.001+00:002015-12-22T04:56:55.664+00:00Vancouver BC to Eureka MT: an escape into the USWestern Canada. A must-see place for many of us cycle tourists. We all think of vast wild places, picture-perfect lakes and pine trees, wildlife, water, mountains and glaciers. But so do many campervan-ers, truck drivers, ATVers, motorbikers. We learnt the hard way that there's no easy exit out of Vancouver.<br />
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We left the city with another plan than originally intended...a job to come back to, and a limited time to travel. We would cycle East towards Calgary, where our cycling would end for the time being. Vancouver may only host 2.5 million people, but be sure is it over a huge portion of land...that never ends. From there we needed to head further East to try and get onto quieter roads and trails, but that is no easy undertaking in Southwestern BC.<br />
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With our frustration levels growing exponentially due to unrespectful drivers and their huge towed loads, trails completely screwed up by the popular all terrain vehicles, we had to make a decision. An escape into the US. And what a great decision that was...You can view our North American route <a href="http://ridewithgps.com/routes/11395619">here</a> or down at the bottom of this blogpost.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidXi_py4ite224U5PYJ9mZiIa67e5F8JFQdAdvY-nFBZcfn3WlV01uVfxAY1Gf0GgF9_byG8MjUlswwW6pHYf9pcvR4HfnkqjbJQwxv-holLJU20UmyZtc6syyV0s0FJDbu5-VmsmPj1ym/s1600/P1060627.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidXi_py4ite224U5PYJ9mZiIa67e5F8JFQdAdvY-nFBZcfn3WlV01uVfxAY1Gf0GgF9_byG8MjUlswwW6pHYf9pcvR4HfnkqjbJQwxv-holLJU20UmyZtc6syyV0s0FJDbu5-VmsmPj1ym/s640/P1060627.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Leaving Vancouver was no easy undertaking. A combination of Sky Train, plus more than 50 km of straight busy (but with a cycle lane) boring road. Our warmshowers host and fellow audaxer, Gary, was training for Paris-Brest-Paris and rode out to pick us up...some 40 km away from his house! Legend!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You know you´ve hit the right warmshowers when you see a garage like this</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With renovated spirits and loads of new advise from Gary and wife Cheryl, we face the inevitable...no alternative for a while on our way to Hope. It sucks, a lot. The Canadians apparently think that if you put up a bike sign it's now safe to ride on an actual highway.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCj0h9Ez3Im9TwKYgkgrG9NtwM4FpdbQr7BIp818WTo-CIrb3d07gCMSIoXMeIcI-95PL9_YZU-8FToE91w6WOarPoV5y6wK8aSALIRdn9k7wZSVuEY8YopBGB48RY2SmwRAeYZ1DPKtti/s1600/P1060636.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCj0h9Ez3Im9TwKYgkgrG9NtwM4FpdbQr7BIp818WTo-CIrb3d07gCMSIoXMeIcI-95PL9_YZU-8FToE91w6WOarPoV5y6wK8aSALIRdn9k7wZSVuEY8YopBGB48RY2SmwRAeYZ1DPKtti/s640/P1060636.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hope doesn´t offer much hope...other than to take the super busy road 3. Scenic it is for sure...but a combination of trucks, North American trucks, RVs, make for some unpleasant riding. We camped away from the road and wake up early the following day.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM7bVYycr9A_4ugSNsveC08GWgNLEE7CjWK22NVUdj8iEoR6jDABUikDIU3WoW9lbwaW4XZ_uXNOIl_4kQcCbqx8cqaPsDBbK5e-SjTio7Gs3hLjqSk-opwpTEa6oeQRIDYwJ1hbqjrlSC/s1600/P1060641.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM7bVYycr9A_4ugSNsveC08GWgNLEE7CjWK22NVUdj8iEoR6jDABUikDIU3WoW9lbwaW4XZ_uXNOIl_4kQcCbqx8cqaPsDBbK5e-SjTio7Gs3hLjqSk-opwpTEa6oeQRIDYwJ1hbqjrlSC/s640/P1060641.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Road 3 for a full day was miserable. Spirits were super low at that time, but when looking for a place to camp near sunset, we are invited for a delicious supper and bed for the night by a lovely Canadian family. The following day we finally hit the famous Kettle Valley Rail, which was apparently torn up by ATVs (i.e. quads) in previous sections. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPqFZo63EwjxKjzQ3ukWyg1a2qZf4S-NzyEzzvFmMsSiT2-Y230Xri2AWZvs50pTQ9UW0muxd31PUiidvySXgfTn7gxwC5bi5SPL3BacpZeDCwZ2jEqf3zKHKYx6h38tKQR2RDc9w-KUly/s1600/P1060645.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPqFZo63EwjxKjzQ3ukWyg1a2qZf4S-NzyEzzvFmMsSiT2-Y230Xri2AWZvs50pTQ9UW0muxd31PUiidvySXgfTn7gxwC5bi5SPL3BacpZeDCwZ2jEqf3zKHKYx6h38tKQR2RDc9w-KUly/s640/P1060645.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glad to be on trails, although these were far from ideal and pretty hard to ride on as it was still pretty popular with ATVers.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghF9qzixmaS96c33Bk7xAE59Pne3LVfk9yrN3Pddmj1EMc3-i4SoNiX1tK9pr9qZwGAGoEwnjaIfEXRh85nrJEVeKEr8Zlg2fpLT_olIQ9s1uNFJDHYOWR2DSY5pBq3TbF9xcbfOyGGcVN/s1600/P1060649.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghF9qzixmaS96c33Bk7xAE59Pne3LVfk9yrN3Pddmj1EMc3-i4SoNiX1tK9pr9qZwGAGoEwnjaIfEXRh85nrJEVeKEr8Zlg2fpLT_olIQ9s1uNFJDHYOWR2DSY5pBq3TbF9xcbfOyGGcVN/s640/P1060649.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The KVR eventually delivered us to Summerland, where we camped at a friendly´s Warmshowers host, three other cyclists (dad and two sons) from Ontario</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrOYwNDQzSxLE4J9OFrxwkDHq3amW4eSx9oX9y2ENaLADsy1JBvpANwLmwCQhMoBbyZH4lL-jlwF-SS9IrN5z6_4LQe3NHmyoPjiEzDxQR32P8WUX5nwG8QubqbMUsJFjjlsZQaAjRe86w/s1600/P1060651.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrOYwNDQzSxLE4J9OFrxwkDHq3amW4eSx9oX9y2ENaLADsy1JBvpANwLmwCQhMoBbyZH4lL-jlwF-SS9IrN5z6_4LQe3NHmyoPjiEzDxQR32P8WUX5nwG8QubqbMUsJFjjlsZQaAjRe86w/s640/P1060651.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At his point a decision had been made. Leave Canada and enter the US. Avoiding the roads, we circled Skaha lake on our way to the border town of Osoyoos</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzcugTq1MnkRNp-uiqHE8OREYsSQ_CdkjjpqN6D3P6wXDAG0R-Q96nRJ2Cc9FChnfJwRBnHxJcb8BUOqfAqAl8mnbto7-AhUmp4tM1fwHepFwPZ5f6sLBZeyHOfp5H9sjrMzlE8jJjgXdx/s1600/P1060653.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzcugTq1MnkRNp-uiqHE8OREYsSQ_CdkjjpqN6D3P6wXDAG0R-Q96nRJ2Cc9FChnfJwRBnHxJcb8BUOqfAqAl8mnbto7-AhUmp4tM1fwHepFwPZ5f6sLBZeyHOfp5H9sjrMzlE8jJjgXdx/s640/P1060653.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Following a combination of trails and quiet secondary roads, we find idyllic camp spots</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzhBGz1WZ3XblFPLyjr6wv0RziFe2krarkfcCNnlngDoegJM87HtCinjlpRhfWYlfcKtEFDvg4s9YJZW25LYMa6NpkoPUh2TvHBfwbB5pcuvG6hS-te48ZwEvd5KbEE8YAL8xJydNOPzBd/s1600/P1060658.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzhBGz1WZ3XblFPLyjr6wv0RziFe2krarkfcCNnlngDoegJM87HtCinjlpRhfWYlfcKtEFDvg4s9YJZW25LYMa6NpkoPUh2TvHBfwbB5pcuvG6hS-te48ZwEvd5KbEE8YAL8xJydNOPzBd/s640/P1060658.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Which much to our surprise, contained a salty water lake.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhloiGbM6lLs69Ivtdq3s8oqCyA-nWg8ZvI55H4z61kJsIQCeHC_zCPIH2XhGib6S1qetXJ5swK8sf7DdMqPEyhIpj7f_CgK6tr7cIZNVLKjNWZWTew9NbXZVAMNYAOC4L9k-u_h9Ek_D2R/s1600/P1060659.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhloiGbM6lLs69Ivtdq3s8oqCyA-nWg8ZvI55H4z61kJsIQCeHC_zCPIH2XhGib6S1qetXJ5swK8sf7DdMqPEyhIpj7f_CgK6tr7cIZNVLKjNWZWTew9NbXZVAMNYAOC4L9k-u_h9Ek_D2R/s640/P1060659.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">By now, hanging or food (cause of the wildlife) has become routine...and I just have to keep getting better at it!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTZcmG8KMmjW_8_ELxADFxuoo0SCMZ59n11Tkdu5kJC3EQJbJ1HQ90xO06Vo1dUCUBbfxfBFmOH-WPqoY0mAroIwOg80PLSCpknbSDFD2TMpw_szdEAZdzN_8HR2O5elyoLn6XfHjyaA9z/s1600/P1060667.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTZcmG8KMmjW_8_ELxADFxuoo0SCMZ59n11Tkdu5kJC3EQJbJ1HQ90xO06Vo1dUCUBbfxfBFmOH-WPqoY0mAroIwOg80PLSCpknbSDFD2TMpw_szdEAZdzN_8HR2O5elyoLn6XfHjyaA9z/s640/P1060667.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Okanagan Valley is well known in BC for its wines. They come at a high price due to BC alcohol taxes, but they are pretty good.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In Osoyoos we met Robert, an unusual Warmshower member who offers free artisanal icecream to passing cycle tourists. When not making delicious <i>gelatto </i>he gets on his bike and does things like a traverse of Australia, which, for those who don't know, is a pretty hard-core thing to do (think about towing 25L of water)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And finally...the US. Washington State.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Immediately turning East after the uninspiring town of Oroville (where, at the time, the newspapers informed us they were debating whether to authorize teachers to carry guns in the classroom), we are greeted with some threatening skies</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwIcVpuNuSy0-IMlZtsPXCVBEqbbUdaapj2iWe9CiNQVLfUxr9-u58qoc75qyIAGcuw1vNRsAsTNUYJfz8jigcZT94cROvQbFtLizX8kTGwZhmMGlrHIy-cAK3CtWSXhAQW2w8Lhs9EBg9/s1600/P1060676.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwIcVpuNuSy0-IMlZtsPXCVBEqbbUdaapj2iWe9CiNQVLfUxr9-u58qoc75qyIAGcuw1vNRsAsTNUYJfz8jigcZT94cROvQbFtLizX8kTGwZhmMGlrHIy-cAK3CtWSXhAQW2w8Lhs9EBg9/s640/P1060676.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And the remainder that in these parts of the world, people love shooting at things</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAyzviL2G2NBjemfZM933JqajefPg4bb7xjCRrR2C6fTD3w6ocEaf_cEzH1zw7mi3zMznF3z0gY22abY1yKaZOj0hwVHAyY6un-6Aq8pmrq5hYRUTM6n40tSzeP1gO-NuKskEor15sV1-Z/s1600/P1060681.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAyzviL2G2NBjemfZM933JqajefPg4bb7xjCRrR2C6fTD3w6ocEaf_cEzH1zw7mi3zMznF3z0gY22abY1yKaZOj0hwVHAyY6un-6Aq8pmrq5hYRUTM6n40tSzeP1gO-NuKskEor15sV1-Z/s640/P1060681.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After our first pass, we are hit by heavy rain. We seek shelter in Chesaw, and made Lucy the happiest woman on earth...by simply ordering her a grilled cheese sandwich!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpzQPr0E3yU9ZB7j2qcqTWp_9WJf60h5aLDFsiYPp8zQyKXbnXS9HsTJyROefy4TUEJAfMkvKCOVy-3vaKveEu3mfWIVZpVQpKSq1V8iweYVqKQ6b1PSehmQtD2pQtlDXU32TsUQODLrX3/s1600/P1060684.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpzQPr0E3yU9ZB7j2qcqTWp_9WJf60h5aLDFsiYPp8zQyKXbnXS9HsTJyROefy4TUEJAfMkvKCOVy-3vaKveEu3mfWIVZpVQpKSq1V8iweYVqKQ6b1PSehmQtD2pQtlDXU32TsUQODLrX3/s640/P1060684.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tired and cold, the locals ask if we are looking for a place to camp...and quickly point us at Fiona´s convenience store. The owner lets us camp in her backyard, showing that US hospitality cyclists talk about</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiokJqJICNOCPlbqPPdTpzD2NzdK3XTrZ7Obg8plagQSpq7oDiBZEJRIyf4KySNjFlyzkh2fZjEPrieROs_2XLZ644nGOYWjO7WgSjjuVZe5nPnj3wVxskB1Jhc9qxmP5DoxrUamx4rZo91/s1600/P1060685.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiokJqJICNOCPlbqPPdTpzD2NzdK3XTrZ7Obg8plagQSpq7oDiBZEJRIyf4KySNjFlyzkh2fZjEPrieROs_2XLZ644nGOYWjO7WgSjjuVZe5nPnj3wVxskB1Jhc9qxmP5DoxrUamx4rZo91/s640/P1060685.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chesaw, aptly named after Chee-Saw, the Chinese settler who settled here back in the day. Yes, it looks just like on TV.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipwH8itH-ZWn-B8cDHrsiIWQvM6YO8UvFIj66nB_OKWJLhzWc-jBWyv656s3Wx9gqtqlDov_rc7xt9nBH2OyN0rhOmOCF-ar1J5GJo61PLNXI8cElSlQ12LX9WPy9dNYltusBdoI_737Hl/s1600/P1060692.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipwH8itH-ZWn-B8cDHrsiIWQvM6YO8UvFIj66nB_OKWJLhzWc-jBWyv656s3Wx9gqtqlDov_rc7xt9nBH2OyN0rhOmOCF-ar1J5GJo61PLNXI8cElSlQ12LX9WPy9dNYltusBdoI_737Hl/s640/P1060692.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Continuing East, we enjoy, for the first time, quiet roads and gentle drivers. No more SUVs, trucks or fancy cars. It feels more real.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3ciY_Vt6vzQTHfGCb3grZlwUKonz6t0g8BKISh2f43bYqkNLuEKWH97VCGax3pJlLyYBeL-2J2ClwyVQg7ewg9sVZ-yQfd1N5ZRB_lIOwMEdUC3N2DnSDEIlqy4KQzDVJFSPtrb6PJPC7/s1600/P1060697.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3ciY_Vt6vzQTHfGCb3grZlwUKonz6t0g8BKISh2f43bYqkNLuEKWH97VCGax3pJlLyYBeL-2J2ClwyVQg7ewg9sVZ-yQfd1N5ZRB_lIOwMEdUC3N2DnSDEIlqy4KQzDVJFSPtrb6PJPC7/s640/P1060697.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camping is easy, as there´s plenty of National Forests with free spots to pitch your tent.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWrJQu8H64_QKntuWPlGHT7ddooS6UrstX9zuV8Nd85a5aIxizjtMMhfyIHavzKCSQS4o-FeVFffemVRWdddeMhLbZeUGOyoQ6PuLVKJVy5xWqkkj6bh3daQ_Nx91HNCv0OMpwa_UCdMmk/s1600/P1060711.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWrJQu8H64_QKntuWPlGHT7ddooS6UrstX9zuV8Nd85a5aIxizjtMMhfyIHavzKCSQS4o-FeVFffemVRWdddeMhLbZeUGOyoQ6PuLVKJVy5xWqkkj6bh3daQ_Nx91HNCv0OMpwa_UCdMmk/s640/P1060711.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Endless dirt roads</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfLcNcdwneDsFu6_PIXgTJfN5-Bq1UtLn65sW32X19BWdTohQJTjvGSw4r_wuJGLlEFQlj2yLtigy2iqHqqx6jKy5dRupDKj2YT3crNpyzHpCRJndwTrD7dMGpLUMMHXcDznSIfwqFXgo4/s1600/P1060725.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfLcNcdwneDsFu6_PIXgTJfN5-Bq1UtLn65sW32X19BWdTohQJTjvGSw4r_wuJGLlEFQlj2yLtigy2iqHqqx6jKy5dRupDKj2YT3crNpyzHpCRJndwTrD7dMGpLUMMHXcDznSIfwqFXgo4/s640/P1060725.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We approach Eastern Washington. All good, awesome roads, friendly people and gentle drivers. Except that the Confederate flag<a href="https://www.blogger.com/null"> </a>is far too common hanging on peoples´ houses or their cars...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh19ZYwbAjd8pgk2nOV6cPwd66uh8CHhrZFPpWb4Ea_s35uaAvy5q_XLl0NBLbb8S4EU7vRxn_1EPgiQy2Z3YdOl18jXWDrV-IQBt9vAUVWOt9wEIeUgGM2_cMVXqsK85OCuyzFPv2dT-Vj/s1600/P1060727.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh19ZYwbAjd8pgk2nOV6cPwd66uh8CHhrZFPpWb4Ea_s35uaAvy5q_XLl0NBLbb8S4EU7vRxn_1EPgiQy2Z3YdOl18jXWDrV-IQBt9vAUVWOt9wEIeUgGM2_cMVXqsK85OCuyzFPv2dT-Vj/s640/P1060727.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another lovely Warmshower family hosts us for the night just on the border with Idaho. They have a farm, and are awesome cooks. An interesting lifestyle they live.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4K_8G9OnE1wjvoK1nXsjp_2IOgZi9bXwBjJ0wax7BWB9A1mBtIQf-LFCjtHTCT9ZxwGcQkNtiliX0uRGdRzcCT-1x72lS0zbaIutItKrF8Dbkp54uRFKk2iV8_ZEjBl7xiQxFMsoJ7zQ8/s1600/P1060738.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4K_8G9OnE1wjvoK1nXsjp_2IOgZi9bXwBjJ0wax7BWB9A1mBtIQf-LFCjtHTCT9ZxwGcQkNtiliX0uRGdRzcCT-1x72lS0zbaIutItKrF8Dbkp54uRFKk2iV8_ZEjBl7xiQxFMsoJ7zQ8/s640/P1060738.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nice riding and good camping. What´s not to like?</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7dF_P4ZfaDOO6mF06LyNaZSipstEBcT-M9cZ78cosfuyMWH2PEKkTgbg9AMVvk9_PHHjmJVBp_z8mkOgLnKCrTbHW4nCRkZLttUEwOqPap8VcwU9LqIhLi6gl8IAbwolL62r_oTfIh6fL/s1600/P1060742.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7dF_P4ZfaDOO6mF06LyNaZSipstEBcT-M9cZ78cosfuyMWH2PEKkTgbg9AMVvk9_PHHjmJVBp_z8mkOgLnKCrTbHW4nCRkZLttUEwOqPap8VcwU9LqIhLi6gl8IAbwolL62r_oTfIh6fL/s640/P1060742.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Idaho, at last. Although as we were crossing through the panhandle, we wouldn´t spend more than a day in the state!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMDRjEc088fJpjE-3fN5qZfRf2CYpvZqqjn53Z_c8Rnq4MVXpmHp3_Yy0FTxb03JRZIwW02HT_xaWt8bpe6eT5g-LD299Xn2hXr_B4K0H11FZhR0VLe5X4aKS7jFSKM6w5BJvoD6vNvBXy/s1600/P1060747.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMDRjEc088fJpjE-3fN5qZfRf2CYpvZqqjn53Z_c8Rnq4MVXpmHp3_Yy0FTxb03JRZIwW02HT_xaWt8bpe6eT5g-LD299Xn2hXr_B4K0H11FZhR0VLe5X4aKS7jFSKM6w5BJvoD6vNvBXy/s640/P1060747.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Riding towards Sandpoint, we cycle along a crazy long bridge across Lake Pend Oreille, with its dedicated cycle path.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2bygJZpdw__u6UrJCdeMnlj8q6jKuEnLnFX1QTm0A9eshC8waQ0nQoNU8f9yBnpYMqXObybkAXydHDm5XSkymgMcmeh-1DOduKPOlw0j0v7_ZB4w2RhsLsqZRkuXHzGBNc7-mQcn_dPco/s1600/P1060753.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2bygJZpdw__u6UrJCdeMnlj8q6jKuEnLnFX1QTm0A9eshC8waQ0nQoNU8f9yBnpYMqXObybkAXydHDm5XSkymgMcmeh-1DOduKPOlw0j0v7_ZB4w2RhsLsqZRkuXHzGBNc7-mQcn_dPco/s640/P1060753.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Creativity in Sandpoint, where we are again taken in by a lovely warmshowers host. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsd8dxAs3NBmrsg86DVlgvb8TDlbMR8tQFClsUAlMDmbzyLZ8eNH1MmP7APq-UlWE1BA-6UWiPJkVet0hfIyQchgCYodhdwKW0DmoI2bAkuoAHk78i9ocHzKcniQtqow2GOGZezbZGnvky/s1600/P1060770.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsd8dxAs3NBmrsg86DVlgvb8TDlbMR8tQFClsUAlMDmbzyLZ8eNH1MmP7APq-UlWE1BA-6UWiPJkVet0hfIyQchgCYodhdwKW0DmoI2bAkuoAHk78i9ocHzKcniQtqow2GOGZezbZGnvky/s640/P1060770.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving Sandpoint we quickly hit Montana. Another great National Forest free campsite, with a view to the lake.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbD32BvWZuPO6LuzWTmwlbg3LUueZsVdqg5OJm-iTya8QO20Bdg_exJ_T_QZPJEZ7zk26BqK7CZvNwWZ6R2AJBQ4Dx6iiF0fFyTPNTNCThSWz5_3xcgiYPw1TI3sspCreCu1loxn4qi3Eh/s1600/P1060780.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbD32BvWZuPO6LuzWTmwlbg3LUueZsVdqg5OJm-iTya8QO20Bdg_exJ_T_QZPJEZ7zk26BqK7CZvNwWZ6R2AJBQ4Dx6iiF0fFyTPNTNCThSWz5_3xcgiYPw1TI3sspCreCu1loxn4qi3Eh/s640/P1060780.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Riding further into Montana we can tell the Rockies are approaching (or we are approaching them).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_5OINIRYBBaPFUDrhxsCv6xCYfN2fTF0jnSvS6n175Sadth4DRfodTkoQn7nf7ZbY-V0hSjsb0gKdukl99sOzyeg1xdPU1kDG9Y289_LEfElLlIWfk-qGSK-2-PY9fcaw7K4mWewISZZT/s1600/P1060797.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_5OINIRYBBaPFUDrhxsCv6xCYfN2fTF0jnSvS6n175Sadth4DRfodTkoQn7nf7ZbY-V0hSjsb0gKdukl99sOzyeg1xdPU1kDG9Y289_LEfElLlIWfk-qGSK-2-PY9fcaw7K4mWewISZZT/s640/P1060797.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just before Libby we take a minute to check out the Kootenai falls, not bad for a five minute walk from the highway. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0uN48jhjQrxn7xDtQkHeHRLabGcrer3OkzmowKOPa0CSEc4X-wsMrTbit7Mx9WSno8nXPRrbJw2MbCzArq1SLqEW4TgN9EHJEpuUB25XMnVmfkwn3piyoPO_ocu2wItyQMk6E_r5_TXHy/s1600/P1060822.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0uN48jhjQrxn7xDtQkHeHRLabGcrer3OkzmowKOPa0CSEc4X-wsMrTbit7Mx9WSno8nXPRrbJw2MbCzArq1SLqEW4TgN9EHJEpuUB25XMnVmfkwn3piyoPO_ocu2wItyQMk6E_r5_TXHy/s640/P1060822.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We take forest service roads North out of Libby, and soon are warned that we are now in grizzly territory.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhbgKUGrFD3wVOWUmAhyphenhyphenLcDIlw6uS7widvspqExm46azygdbUZ1kpUWjV9ka5Jwdjn-G5wgfTjlyASIvNpfx6JWFkTzfYrfPJaPN5aITrx3VquQcgXAyI_MMCsDAVkPpuiL3cjxkpkFr7H/s1600/P1060835.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhbgKUGrFD3wVOWUmAhyphenhyphenLcDIlw6uS7widvspqExm46azygdbUZ1kpUWjV9ka5Jwdjn-G5wgfTjlyASIvNpfx6JWFkTzfYrfPJaPN5aITrx3VquQcgXAyI_MMCsDAVkPpuiL3cjxkpkFr7H/s640/P1060835.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the other end of the forest road we pop out at lake Koocanusa - named by a contest because it is formed by a dam on the KOOtenai rever and straddles CANada and USA. Wildfires nearby mean low visibility.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_Y3HljCJJHBTJ9IIBiRlwTCBEt7_qLla6Png16xXMzB37HjkTWvWrrxBfrtearcUatYbQf7RM1JfVdGWbUGHvdAC-YKfE0urNSvUFSvO8L466qzzg6dloxFWRJGX_tloWYMBA1ENpPhi6/s1600/P1060836.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_Y3HljCJJHBTJ9IIBiRlwTCBEt7_qLla6Png16xXMzB37HjkTWvWrrxBfrtearcUatYbQf7RM1JfVdGWbUGHvdAC-YKfE0urNSvUFSvO8L466qzzg6dloxFWRJGX_tloWYMBA1ENpPhi6/s640/P1060836.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally we arrive in Eureka, Montana - intersection with the ACA's Great Divide mountain biking route and site of our first day off in almost two weeks. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBD_02spi8KYvBPLmnX7ItM_23SxZqZSYC4rsNEHnhCc4I5buMkwj7CBfuDKAMmPTE5FGSzDZ8TrqhEw9B7xGVcJEvwYlAoxP-GTMe7ePrera6ok-Y1be6w8w06T8m5Y8iaO8sCzVr7HOE/s1600/P1060840.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBD_02spi8KYvBPLmnX7ItM_23SxZqZSYC4rsNEHnhCc4I5buMkwj7CBfuDKAMmPTE5FGSzDZ8TrqhEw9B7xGVcJEvwYlAoxP-GTMe7ePrera6ok-Y1be6w8w06T8m5Y8iaO8sCzVr7HOE/s640/P1060840.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We are taken in by some great warmshowers hosts and craft beer connoisseurs. What more could you ask for?</td></tr>
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Here's the fill route from Vancouver to Calgary:<br />
<iframe frameborder="0" height="500px" src="//ridewithgps.com/routes/11395619/embed" width="100%"></iframe>
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<br />Albertohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15789158563391048740noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-43359740269076948802015-12-05T19:25:00.001+00:002015-12-05T19:25:30.568+00:00Impressions of VancouverLots of new things have happened in the last 4 months or so...Apologies for not keeping up with the blog! Our initial plan to cycle down the Great Divide mtb route through the Rockies and into Mexico quickly changed almost upon landing in Vancouver in June 2015...<br />
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A city ranked amongst the most desirable places to live, with an idyllic location next to the British Columbia Coastal Mountains, and a very spread out population of 2.5 million. The city isn´t particularly scenic, coming from Europe, but the location is. You could be up skiing on a local hill in the morning, and kayaking one of the fjords in the afternoon, before a night dip in one of the pretty beaches out in Point Grey. A city where teenagers drive Ferraris with their ¨newbie stickers¨on, where some folk think a truck (as in, a North American truck or huge 4x4) is necessary to get around town (Fords F350 and their younger brothers), where absurd mansions keep on spreading on the North Shore...But also, a place where lots of folk are into all sorts of interesting hobbies and sports, volunteering and not only into one of them, but all at the same time... A place where it isn´t uncommon to see a 5 year old running in full running apparel with his/her parents as if preparing for a marathon. We could live here...that was our very first reaction when we cycled out of the airport and into the city.</div>
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And then<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hastings_Street_(Vancouver)"> Hastings St</a>. If you are in Vancouver and don´t know about it, you will sure find out if you walk around downtown. An incredible phenomena that is in striking contrast to this opulent city.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho01NMXpdqP3Tc8Rmql_uDpeZ9g4XGyAxqKqNAq6h13XeIONOAqkuOiC3yMrhjba4IvyrYCf9tpuRIROOSe9sp2Ha_ijOdvpylC8PxnLk8o88U0cK7aOdFcMxxyPEz6QngzzS28lcNVQ4w/s1600/P1060409.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho01NMXpdqP3Tc8Rmql_uDpeZ9g4XGyAxqKqNAq6h13XeIONOAqkuOiC3yMrhjba4IvyrYCf9tpuRIROOSe9sp2Ha_ijOdvpylC8PxnLk8o88U0cK7aOdFcMxxyPEz6QngzzS28lcNVQ4w/s640/P1060409.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Never before in my life, had I seen so much floating wealth...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1ms7GeeMQejNaAjh-6bXoIQDhEl_a85znl3EyD6nbumCMDJAAo7FK6XZurfU5zXYRJ4RNGb5xP4sUGkInAHMsOLfSnObCrSRjl_AP8uJjLy9cRdv00LLAZza0czPl5s2bRqQ7Ksia9zVy/s1600/P1060413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1ms7GeeMQejNaAjh-6bXoIQDhEl_a85znl3EyD6nbumCMDJAAo7FK6XZurfU5zXYRJ4RNGb5xP4sUGkInAHMsOLfSnObCrSRjl_AP8uJjLy9cRdv00LLAZza0czPl5s2bRqQ7Ksia9zVy/s640/P1060413.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Places like the UK would see people downing pints of tasty English ale on a sunny day like this...but in BC, with its stringent alcohol laws, people get out and do fun things!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...by fun meaning things like these!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Come evening time, and you can´t go wrong sitting in one of the many beaches in Kitsilano to enjoy a sunset</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But really, what makes Vancouver a great place is its close proximity to the outdoors. Good University friends Sergio and Itziar, take us out on a hiking trip full of crazy mosquitos!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Though the place is incredibly beautiful and we are sold. We will be coming back to Vancouver in a few months...with a job. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black Tusk in the background, while we set off on a morning stroll</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhompWwafpjfs8sXJck3z1B0ARY9PIxQLvvSNz_DroEZDIDklSSfI0KKPajXZ4fu1rjtAX1VpA758aX7EJ7S-KN0y0bp-IZ7R1g5Izzb5vpbfrXypFFOo8YqfgHW42zLCDpraQ4SBYNprPF/s1600/IMG_3400.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhompWwafpjfs8sXJck3z1B0ARY9PIxQLvvSNz_DroEZDIDklSSfI0KKPajXZ4fu1rjtAX1VpA758aX7EJ7S-KN0y0bp-IZ7R1g5Izzb5vpbfrXypFFOo8YqfgHW42zLCDpraQ4SBYNprPF/s640/IMG_3400.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Going past scenic turquoise lakes</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Encountering some snow on the way up (this being mid June, in an apparently very dry winter)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCfT8DpcPFhrzYMt8VM4H-PS-KGpO3CEX24ZiJ_7l8k2VSr_cQMJx4qFDDKtA4jNhTlf5K1wTrhUJiuLO0AaoI1Gku1oUkSKiWYx4Jr4VV2QrjhfpP28uYn5vVC1a0TP3O8KJ7Pe7PivEg/s1600/IMG_3411.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCfT8DpcPFhrzYMt8VM4H-PS-KGpO3CEX24ZiJ_7l8k2VSr_cQMJx4qFDDKtA4jNhTlf5K1wTrhUJiuLO0AaoI1Gku1oUkSKiWYx4Jr4VV2QrjhfpP28uYn5vVC1a0TP3O8KJ7Pe7PivEg/s640/IMG_3411.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Almost at the top of Panorama Ridge, aptly name after the panorama it affords...I guess</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmC8hD9F0ZFDmHt4R40XrRNUYMrEekt8TRYL5hMPdP3og3MHlI3GibAXblyCuoI-gm841idECPRTqGMjmUD1HtaYCytKaX1sA3J64HKVwsy8bmhJQg8hovWWNm8x21Gp8eb07ldKi_oL58/s1600/IMG_3417.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmC8hD9F0ZFDmHt4R40XrRNUYMrEekt8TRYL5hMPdP3og3MHlI3GibAXblyCuoI-gm841idECPRTqGMjmUD1HtaYCytKaX1sA3J64HKVwsy8bmhJQg8hovWWNm8x21Gp8eb07ldKi_oL58/s640/IMG_3417.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Awww</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggb4zAXHLI3xUOKk8XkCl62upONgCoxa_wTGtz_hA3bLG2Bl4sfksh-Sk5lY9f_f9FlfvH3qZAp-S0EBRgcEh5sY-gbYzKLelv-xjCGzx9dYnpk9CTG7zK7U2B63SXgp9aABQI8lAvOk-o/s1600/P1060476.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggb4zAXHLI3xUOKk8XkCl62upONgCoxa_wTGtz_hA3bLG2Bl4sfksh-Sk5lY9f_f9FlfvH3qZAp-S0EBRgcEh5sY-gbYzKLelv-xjCGzx9dYnpk9CTG7zK7U2B63SXgp9aABQI8lAvOk-o/s640/P1060476.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back in town, we spent much of our time enjoying the pleasant urban cycling around Stanley Park</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilJncPQAbi9YLhAfuMozK-Y703AfQmHJpAfTL4bE3EHMj-0dodjF-JArEsiqlpUkiyQfy6US9oo-z0DvM6vE43uPkFJGEScOgn7heGfEv68qV3xJZiKDZ1Rwvy9LEhwNQQ6tRd5_jcVLc6/s1600/P1060483.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilJncPQAbi9YLhAfuMozK-Y703AfQmHJpAfTL4bE3EHMj-0dodjF-JArEsiqlpUkiyQfy6US9oo-z0DvM6vE43uPkFJGEScOgn7heGfEv68qV3xJZiKDZ1Rwvy9LEhwNQQ6tRd5_jcVLc6/s640/P1060483.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And observing things like electric car stations. Yes, there is hundreds of American trucks consuming vast amounts of fuel, but also plenty of electric vehicles</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizEr7jLMSvih9NhjyyY1SRJBJJ7T_rtGfdNty-Cf00kWi4vECJ8gOFqMctb11XsOp9isVq39sIYN1HHMLys86tT0V6LJc_YA5VDMQAtV9tmfEBfL5roouLeUffotuZNf4S19PYxs99OL-V/s1600/P1060489.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizEr7jLMSvih9NhjyyY1SRJBJJ7T_rtGfdNty-Cf00kWi4vECJ8gOFqMctb11XsOp9isVq39sIYN1HHMLys86tT0V6LJc_YA5VDMQAtV9tmfEBfL5roouLeUffotuZNf4S19PYxs99OL-V/s640/P1060489.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunsets are also one of our favourite past times, no matter in which direction you sit</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm7b7frxMhJm0AeZ9xydQMUTCV-fpY8R9Cili1x0hGFQfmkWUQCfvtfXWTEtHfgY62O2SoJ6sZ98uKfnSAMl6L0dH8EyjKrwS3zwsFzJF4QmCf2xJeWvcH4pzbArWuPS8sypeUulNvDccP/s1600/P1060525.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm7b7frxMhJm0AeZ9xydQMUTCV-fpY8R9Cili1x0hGFQfmkWUQCfvtfXWTEtHfgY62O2SoJ6sZ98uKfnSAMl6L0dH8EyjKrwS3zwsFzJF4QmCf2xJeWvcH4pzbArWuPS8sypeUulNvDccP/s640/P1060525.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On (sunny) Tuesdays they go crazy and holds one incredible event. <a href="http://www.brahmstams.com/">Brahm Tams</a>. Play drums, hide your beer/booze (it´s illegal to drink in public) and enjoy the rhythms. To our surprise, this isn´t a normal hippy gathering - people of all ages and backgrounds appear to be here - from kids with their parents, to retirees enjoying playing the drums. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJc8ixHu_L8bQXlZuvZRWe61S_xn-BrJX8j9qifjs783C6HikhhRoxV79HFyPS5N4gX8eZ_WJwyy8CVn5rhGi3U7a7zxMiQmyNiD4v0kaXa9vmTSM_441s-6kUu1Yng45PyqnHmo7cLbks/s1600/IMG_3413.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJc8ixHu_L8bQXlZuvZRWe61S_xn-BrJX8j9qifjs783C6HikhhRoxV79HFyPS5N4gX8eZ_WJwyy8CVn5rhGi3U7a7zxMiQmyNiD4v0kaXa9vmTSM_441s-6kUu1Yng45PyqnHmo7cLbks/s640/IMG_3413.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And finally, the Garibaldi lake</td></tr>
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Special thanks to our beloved friends Itziar and Sergio, who put up with us for over a month in their apartment, and helped us get a job. Cheers mates!<br />
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Albertohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15789158563391048740noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-73050808108805934892015-07-17T00:34:00.001+01:002015-07-17T00:34:51.945+01:00A short tour on Vancouver IslandIf our (obviously millions of) readers will forgive us for an astronomical jump in time and place with little to no explanation, we'd like to tell the story of a recent four day tour on Vancouver Island, British Columbia. Finding ourselves in Vancouver with some free time, we decided to take advantage and go for what we thought would be a fun, relaxed tour to ease us back into things after a long time off the bike. But, as we learned over and over again, things are never that simple in Canada... Still, we managed to enjoy ourselves in the hot BC summer, and it felt great to be back on the bikes, even if for only a few days.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGm0SQh1KIPo3gM-fluCWojL_a_ftb89lo8r_5XhN1BRQsJJcsQaoncWSwixwD68qd3zyAYKV4lE7ebvP7vf-YlX_e0-f041wWY_khmyQtT4Oqs3RkxwUKbn7MHvH_czRrmEXFUNNzMMs/s1600/P1060542.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGm0SQh1KIPo3gM-fluCWojL_a_ftb89lo8r_5XhN1BRQsJJcsQaoncWSwixwD68qd3zyAYKV4lE7ebvP7vf-YlX_e0-f041wWY_khmyQtT4Oqs3RkxwUKbn7MHvH_czRrmEXFUNNzMMs/s640/P1060542.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After a long cycle to Horseshoe Bay to the north of Vancouver, we board a ferry over to the island. The views aren't as spectacular as they could be because of the haze in the air from several wildfires nearby.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmb_mx-bUPpYAGr6Z5rmVdVlCAhnYIjyhPiJdZaCiASKnkYm4-E7SVCttHojNS4XYgHXbyfL0IN7UKY3Su8s8ZAc4kBG-0XdFoAuxD91HRvzj2d1kLoFNZAXnhDLQGy56K7d1dh7MRWIE/s1600/P1060547.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmb_mx-bUPpYAGr6Z5rmVdVlCAhnYIjyhPiJdZaCiASKnkYm4-E7SVCttHojNS4XYgHXbyfL0IN7UKY3Su8s8ZAc4kBG-0XdFoAuxD91HRvzj2d1kLoFNZAXnhDLQGy56K7d1dh7MRWIE/s640/P1060547.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After a quick stop in the supermarket once on the island, we head out of Nanaimo in the evening light, first attempting to ride the section of the Trans-Canada Trail here but diverting to the quiet paved road after discovering stairs and other undesirable elements on the trail. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGWhjOCnaX4ypE9K9PtLkbFhq5RhQ7jUug-JaTN0an30tduHG0DgdRDwt_3cGbWuDoiVdB9Du-g-7NceVEn2f7ffa4zgr0ARDdwIvr1iPDEMoJa61_wI1JHsJZ9MZvk1IrjIImOvjKZaA/s1600/P1060553.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGWhjOCnaX4ypE9K9PtLkbFhq5RhQ7jUug-JaTN0an30tduHG0DgdRDwt_3cGbWuDoiVdB9Du-g-7NceVEn2f7ffa4zgr0ARDdwIvr1iPDEMoJa61_wI1JHsJZ9MZvk1IrjIImOvjKZaA/s640/P1060553.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Around 8:30pm we arrive at a locked gate across the road, with a sign indicating that the road will reopen in the morning. Unsure of how seriously these things are taken, we decide to camp just before the gate. It´s our first hint that, in Canada, just because a road appears on the map doesn't mean you can ride it.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0zkfrrxZSCXkK_RiI7_vNG8ue2XxIpTfVCI3f01_o3f1KQG2OQNd2UJf1KzLcljd1LNAnVPsZ7g5rZlU4qbaPe1dwLF2bUzay8UqVtMNmQj9BMOoUpuQshxpCF3Qde8ALsTOB77sFD9U/s1600/P1060559.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0zkfrrxZSCXkK_RiI7_vNG8ue2XxIpTfVCI3f01_o3f1KQG2OQNd2UJf1KzLcljd1LNAnVPsZ7g5rZlU4qbaPe1dwLF2bUzay8UqVtMNmQj9BMOoUpuQshxpCF3Qde8ALsTOB77sFD9U/s640/P1060559.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Early the next morning, we come across yet another locked gate, showing no signs of opening soon. We speak to a couple of workers who are nearby and they eventually agree to let us pass, as long as we don't tell anyone they saw us! Apparently most of the back roads in the area are actually private and can be closed any time the logging companies see fit, such as now due to the high risk of fires. On the other hand, we are guaranteed traffic free riding for the rest of the day!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCbdpw_A7vr35BzdaNI_kGZJtqlp2g8GugRr4cwyj7KfzXrQht68M_peuDCC8JnoROOMSrVt1bKjXZ0uZEDw1yuN1S7TXsxIV5lnKtJtwMHUKje6dPwWDSb2hjAyplWVnhqpYDi8TZ0Sw/s1600/IMG_3435.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCbdpw_A7vr35BzdaNI_kGZJtqlp2g8GugRr4cwyj7KfzXrQht68M_peuDCC8JnoROOMSrVt1bKjXZ0uZEDw1yuN1S7TXsxIV5lnKtJtwMHUKje6dPwWDSb2hjAyplWVnhqpYDi8TZ0Sw/s640/IMG_3435.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's hot out there, but luckily there are still some flowing creeks for refilling the water bottles. We have about a 600m climb ahead of us.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6oAYBY2duq_yTJ0rdU4ltUcFcDxFR1VPlClIKWEXFe6O49WKXJ2W0fK7mBnkBlbQaO9iLkH6kjwFTk7igDX_xQotSPOP-63Lkq9BU9keTh2tSsRIFpoEy0z5eg0QzfEy11OQ5YKJISrg/s1600/P1060554.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6oAYBY2duq_yTJ0rdU4ltUcFcDxFR1VPlClIKWEXFe6O49WKXJ2W0fK7mBnkBlbQaO9iLkH6kjwFTk7igDX_xQotSPOP-63Lkq9BU9keTh2tSsRIFpoEy0z5eg0QzfEy11OQ5YKJISrg/s640/P1060554.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As we head up the climb, we keep seeing plenty of what we are pretty sure is bear poop along the road. Then, just before the summit, we get confirmation - a small black bear on the side of the road, which luckily bolts as soon as he sees us. We're relieved to have our first bear sighting out of the way, and hoping not to see too many more</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV3_8GS_n3QxkJvHscv_WZSEJo-IqVNdtf8QK7B10oV-BzYxnFy1OrUoXVh6zd1UinbsPiqTd98gv3SkLostm03XQvB7GzO9d7kG3prCA7D9Srd4J5YW0qkcWZh2aDdGn_Z4iI-yGhp2Y/s1600/P1060556.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV3_8GS_n3QxkJvHscv_WZSEJo-IqVNdtf8QK7B10oV-BzYxnFy1OrUoXVh6zd1UinbsPiqTd98gv3SkLostm03XQvB7GzO9d7kG3prCA7D9Srd4J5YW0qkcWZh2aDdGn_Z4iI-yGhp2Y/s640/P1060556.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally, we crest the top of the pass and enjoy the steep descent down the other side, making as much noise as possible to scare away any other lurking bears.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirP_5jX166oYKB5RXTf0L2WEPciWEgLGuoUO7SvEL4TJ5EEhVTfX_7OF2maYC7jNUEScJtRyvbVGMXLWiZwExt62HQtk-7KtHSG0ERt85o5OOO3XvoWSnVVU_UkulB0q6Cpi6sWP5NkNk/s1600/P1060566.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirP_5jX166oYKB5RXTf0L2WEPciWEgLGuoUO7SvEL4TJ5EEhVTfX_7OF2maYC7jNUEScJtRyvbVGMXLWiZwExt62HQtk-7KtHSG0ERt85o5OOO3XvoWSnVVU_UkulB0q6Cpi6sWP5NkNk/s640/P1060566.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At dusk, we pull off down a disused dirt track and find an ideal spot to pitch the tent. No need for the rainfly as it´s bone dry these days. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbrXZI4RZqmrjYCo2Zjyiar5gZz7MlUKKx4H8zn2bZupA_Hu3Q9XTmZBLKXyeVjLdFvu7Dqw8WIxyoqVdQ_M6RvwP-saiFRIlJi2Am1ELBxsRwWRkVG6WccHHNWBpHbJySaVL7km9v5Os/s1600/IMG_3437.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbrXZI4RZqmrjYCo2Zjyiar5gZz7MlUKKx4H8zn2bZupA_Hu3Q9XTmZBLKXyeVjLdFvu7Dqw8WIxyoqVdQ_M6RvwP-saiFRIlJi2Am1ELBxsRwWRkVG6WccHHNWBpHbJySaVL7km9v5Os/s640/IMG_3437.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Having camped without much water, we pedal a few kilometers in the morning to Gordon Bay Provincial Park, where we stop to cook breakfast with a view and take a cleansing dip in the cool waters. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOp6auB366pIHiSG8L6MDCfTG_G-0MsOgH6-nbtbVH3_p_DOYWvHvIx6MJaRPK9IPnZn8QTpcETcKKrAFRQ_IOYy04jYqXvtGwsOg9b4qF2o7wP0mhRHgXK0lgXneeMUmpRsMUeUJbMUk/s1600/P1060562.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOp6auB366pIHiSG8L6MDCfTG_G-0MsOgH6-nbtbVH3_p_DOYWvHvIx6MJaRPK9IPnZn8QTpcETcKKrAFRQ_IOYy04jYqXvtGwsOg9b4qF2o7wP0mhRHgXK0lgXneeMUmpRsMUeUJbMUk/s640/P1060562.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At only 9am, we can tell the day is going to be a hot one. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDdobJoKiwt7abkRpJi11M4-pTwSqmu7ntrQ9C28tALHdOL71pc9h1bIZ7os7ebuhyphenhyphenZOUSfldF8MZRqGnFxgCB_1CnZQerSibEJJLRWDX68WwwSbQWr92LGv0JNdSTmWElrD5sjb7Nc3s/s1600/P1060569.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDdobJoKiwt7abkRpJi11M4-pTwSqmu7ntrQ9C28tALHdOL71pc9h1bIZ7os7ebuhyphenhyphenZOUSfldF8MZRqGnFxgCB_1CnZQerSibEJJLRWDX68WwwSbQWr92LGv0JNdSTmWElrD5sjb7Nc3s/s640/P1060569.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fortunately for us, much of the day is spent on the Cowichan Valley trail, a disused railway which offers plenty of shade. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAC_hqlCl4eol9kVvTem6UVaJyhA79TTXoDOBdME9XB2Jfn4Bh2gzFOYaMVs-rBvHR7VIdPPyp2iy-ScF3yHVvO85kXYmarVs__kjdeX1iLcmEZD9NLOiPyKJ9KaAo7Z1WXJWkGYMkN2I/s1600/P1060574.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAC_hqlCl4eol9kVvTem6UVaJyhA79TTXoDOBdME9XB2Jfn4Bh2gzFOYaMVs-rBvHR7VIdPPyp2iy-ScF3yHVvO85kXYmarVs__kjdeX1iLcmEZD9NLOiPyKJ9KaAo7Z1WXJWkGYMkN2I/s640/P1060574.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We also get to cross the impressive Kinsel Trestle.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifBBlMw6KbB6LbnpPMTXaGKeW7cuhrDwsPcOF2FNUHd7-P6h9bsqWKasB0FYzfIVPJHUwAHa94ZubDDerQp7VRhibcWIOUjgtol4631gYNCKUj2-Bd9ylcBZUml_FHLEoxSWq0ATW7ZHk/s1600/P1060575.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifBBlMw6KbB6LbnpPMTXaGKeW7cuhrDwsPcOF2FNUHd7-P6h9bsqWKasB0FYzfIVPJHUwAHa94ZubDDerQp7VRhibcWIOUjgtol4631gYNCKUj2-Bd9ylcBZUml_FHLEoxSWq0ATW7ZHk/s640/P1060575.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We are unceremoniously dumped at the end of the Cowichan Valley trail, having not found any water en route. We stop at a house to ask for water and it turns out we have stumbled upon Don and Lora, two hardcore mountain bikers who share stories of their trips to ride all over the US and Canada. They offer us a place to stay for the night and some delicious blueberry waffles and bacon in the morning!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0N6uOzuvIw6Z0YqfTTEEkidteiLKxEeQMwrtHZKi9s9QU2k4T_2aa55Onxm_GKQKvILNYDVpd5REVmUeN0CzmyHd0Y7iyB9Pt6-bBcW2cn_Jb45FPt6t6KmP78VezxR4kbWGI6bJZHJM/s1600/IMG_3441.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0N6uOzuvIw6Z0YqfTTEEkidteiLKxEeQMwrtHZKi9s9QU2k4T_2aa55Onxm_GKQKvILNYDVpd5REVmUeN0CzmyHd0Y7iyB9Pt6-bBcW2cn_Jb45FPt6t6KmP78VezxR4kbWGI6bJZHJM/s640/IMG_3441.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We are also able to replace Lucy's small chain ring, which had been acting up after we changed the rest of the drivetrain. We had been carrying the new one around Vancouver Island but didn't have the tools to fix it. No problem, Don has a dream workshop with all tools necessary! </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmiQSOTn2cKXZ6H9_nFIue2pOpyOewR5eabny1C9e6OhiMO4SGHqKvJ_NqHCqOOfS5i8Q4vHNqJuqGTIm9ZTlfmSijms5gGWI323rjm6qXCHFlK88OAJvCgIyidwLDIAQfoP0WxamqZmo/s1600/P1060579.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmiQSOTn2cKXZ6H9_nFIue2pOpyOewR5eabny1C9e6OhiMO4SGHqKvJ_NqHCqOOfS5i8Q4vHNqJuqGTIm9ZTlfmSijms5gGWI323rjm6qXCHFlK88OAJvCgIyidwLDIAQfoP0WxamqZmo/s640/P1060579.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We also learn from Don and Lora that our planned route towards Victoria goes through a restricted zone, where access is very controlled. Together we determine our best course of action - to take the busy highway a few kilometers north and catch the Mill Bay Ferry across to the Saanitch Peninsula. It means a pretty low-mileage day, and some stressful time on one of the busiest roads we´ve ridden in quite a while. Fortunately we have the positive vibes of Don and Lora to accompany us!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMa2z6ETijdJLcdr8_B9JiAOr1cpMRfHISp4I0n3k-6UiXjhKkwmjg1t9YqIioPM2SJljEqf6ci5O9RMoJg6x-bPhBFTx2WyvJ3_fsOji1Me6dqU9YS6Q7ZrROncKvtcZTf0dyPpC2WkE/s1600/P1060591.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMa2z6ETijdJLcdr8_B9JiAOr1cpMRfHISp4I0n3k-6UiXjhKkwmjg1t9YqIioPM2SJljEqf6ci5O9RMoJg6x-bPhBFTx2WyvJ3_fsOji1Me6dqU9YS6Q7ZrROncKvtcZTf0dyPpC2WkE/s640/P1060591.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the Saanitch peninsula we make our way to our warmshowers hosts Frances and Al, who live right on the water. The haze is still lingering but even so it's a beautiful spot.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another goodbye in the morning and we are off to catch the ferry back from Swartz Bay to Tsawwassen on the mainland.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc0k0X3YctpMNLJ3G9-9zZAhcxjHnLplFzSoGdMN2olstSF5MaPGxR9nNEUtVAqNIIBvvOQe35XvgTcuqZG4NK-Y26EVSy4WiLAXHeOvRvAqclKSnYPyN2NlkI5cKkOpfQQVb6RGECNeI/s1600/P1060602.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc0k0X3YctpMNLJ3G9-9zZAhcxjHnLplFzSoGdMN2olstSF5MaPGxR9nNEUtVAqNIIBvvOQe35XvgTcuqZG4NK-Y26EVSy4WiLAXHeOvRvAqclKSnYPyN2NlkI5cKkOpfQQVb6RGECNeI/s640/P1060602.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From Tsawwassen, it's a half day's ride back to Vancouver. While waiting for the shuttle to take us across a tunnel that is closed to cyclists (yes such things do exist in these civilised parts of the world), we meet Louis and have the pleasure of riding with him the rest of the way to Vancouver. He's come from the Pacific Coast trail and is headed east across Canada now. It's been a long time since we've gotten to hang out and compare notes with other cycle tourists -- we missed it and it makes us want to get back on the bikes!</td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-64660803938743724772015-06-16T03:37:00.001+01:002015-06-16T15:17:21.598+01:00Colonia del Sacramento to Montevideo via Punta del Diablo: a short tour through the South of Uruguay<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="text-align: left;">Uruguay had always been in our plans, even when we set off from Madrid some 17 months ago. A tiny, not so popular, country that we knew little about. As the clock was ticking for our flight to the United States, we "only" had a couple of weeks to explore. Two weeks, the usual vacation back when we both held "normal" lives, now seemed a real rush...</span></div>
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With our initial plan of audaxing (i.e. clocking up some good km or miles each day) the route some days, we set off from beautiful Colonia del Sacramento, empty of tourits theses days, headed East towards the border with Brazil. Soon after our departure we realised we were in no mood for long days on the saddle, the availability of daylight was greatly reduced from, with light only from 9AM to 6PM, and that Uruguay was not a country to be rushing through. </div>
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So we changed our plan once again, as it has often happened on this trip, and simply sought the less busy, and of most excellent quality, farm roads that abound in Uruguay. With the invaluable help of the GPS, we barely touch pavement and had a wonderful "short vacation" in a country often underlooked by tourists other than neighbouring Brazilians and Argentinians. The last days of pedalling in our beloved South America were wonderful, relaxed, full of bird life and propelled by some great local foods. We´re sure, so sure, to be back soon to this great continent. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMG9-eCZmWZC4_LsaCAp6LWWucoikli3qCdNwsWGPdopmJhAYHUM2gPt2dypgWqhTfRg8EXo-eFj0Me5maqm7d-kIgnavuDjsIdNVPQb0ghthbxHNCx8oEhRqchzO7qirbbxaRahuoefhh/s1600/P1050992.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMG9-eCZmWZC4_LsaCAp6LWWucoikli3qCdNwsWGPdopmJhAYHUM2gPt2dypgWqhTfRg8EXo-eFj0Me5maqm7d-kIgnavuDjsIdNVPQb0ghthbxHNCx8oEhRqchzO7qirbbxaRahuoefhh/s640/P1050992.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A bumpy boat ride from Buenos Aires dropped us in Colonia del Sacramento, a tranquil (in May) colonial Portuguese town filled with sights.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNZuFSNObSR9e56SPUyKQ5fjcB1K6YdXO8Yajw_UHQhEx22OZmurXsk-X2MagmuvN1orANHWemEpp5g8TCl9NybJR6VzKESL_i7VeIN4KwLZ4n1NzIY46WRCyapJuxTPCNTm6K5M0wXg6h/s1600/P1050997.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNZuFSNObSR9e56SPUyKQ5fjcB1K6YdXO8Yajw_UHQhEx22OZmurXsk-X2MagmuvN1orANHWemEpp5g8TCl9NybJR6VzKESL_i7VeIN4KwLZ4n1NzIY46WRCyapJuxTPCNTm6K5M0wXg6h/s640/P1050997.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rio de la Plata. Hard to believe the megacity of Buenos Aires is only 50 km on the other side...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjLLz3lN8fd3YniFheMGna6uj9KGSAUM2YprHHn-SSK3a_HLbrF0lT8BnsSFxxIc0f4HlN6ko1YvkaHQhNy213s8IpGJ1ORIZZLTQPqj8NpZlfnIbK1TC5J9uMsIAQWIb3Lm-SwSIitJ3e/s1600/P1060002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjLLz3lN8fd3YniFheMGna6uj9KGSAUM2YprHHn-SSK3a_HLbrF0lT8BnsSFxxIc0f4HlN6ko1YvkaHQhNy213s8IpGJ1ORIZZLTQPqj8NpZlfnIbK1TC5J9uMsIAQWIb3Lm-SwSIitJ3e/s640/P1060002.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...surely things get more relaxed on this side of the river</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKNgaB4I_T7HptriasGcsBsiwqGO9Gtn1RXdEWOfuIeQm5NFnjieXAQjy1rFfLjpnjRUht6CZ0YO1vgWoCwPhpQsJi23PdeXReNlmp52Avn0hLO-0JyTDgnknbpq-oYOIuCfnQyFtbWjwv/s1600/IMG_3268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKNgaB4I_T7HptriasGcsBsiwqGO9Gtn1RXdEWOfuIeQm5NFnjieXAQjy1rFfLjpnjRUht6CZ0YO1vgWoCwPhpQsJi23PdeXReNlmp52Avn0hLO-0JyTDgnknbpq-oYOIuCfnQyFtbWjwv/s640/IMG_3268.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our only plan upon leaving Colonia was to ride East, without a pre-planned route other than one avoiding the busy roads. The place had a very tropical atmosphere though</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg24Z9J7YDJQmdcWiKmMqMRG9PFjzgREw4ByGBt4VskN_FiKRc7MOvfoK0Ej-Q-7ARBTPl5dH6pAx-2vjM72qVim3K6pHwIqsCnx8kVJFSFMF1zUyL_MNde2GxMWStCE4oR2KhFR5JUdIzF/s1600/P1060005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg24Z9J7YDJQmdcWiKmMqMRG9PFjzgREw4ByGBt4VskN_FiKRc7MOvfoK0Ej-Q-7ARBTPl5dH6pAx-2vjM72qVim3K6pHwIqsCnx8kVJFSFMF1zUyL_MNde2GxMWStCE4oR2KhFR5JUdIzF/s640/P1060005.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our GPS indicated plenty of unpaved roads setting off from the pavement...and what a surprise to find that they were all of superb quality, totally deserted and a pleasure to ride. More than ever before, the GPS made the experience so much better</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ4jZ-TqInl5sKEqjuQdNXYFcOUc3wc1tCWI-X4KS4VjlmIEuvFIwJYEq4Fd1zDlF1vrJx9FHZHxJciHBTsY4V4aFKtRZNoNbcMXpbQiR5ifjzUAcMS1JwkUxqZxov-1ABttZhir0-SlVg/s1600/P1060006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ4jZ-TqInl5sKEqjuQdNXYFcOUc3wc1tCWI-X4KS4VjlmIEuvFIwJYEq4Fd1zDlF1vrJx9FHZHxJciHBTsY4V4aFKtRZNoNbcMXpbQiR5ifjzUAcMS1JwkUxqZxov-1ABttZhir0-SlVg/s640/P1060006.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As sunset was approaching, we encounter this stream crossing, too deep (or maybe we were too lazy) to cross on bikes and so we turn around for an alternative dirt road...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOZdz6xeieLQwpMaloK9SPvkw4TUckSmIywEV5A2E0Ei-iLqKzhvWWtNQ07tUh8SvAKgS7OeVTrBzGdsJHcZiV0gHE-tH2hscqO7kE5pjNc8rHD61EFjJI6R0c5vRO7DQYUZJqFxNUwl4/s1600/P1060007.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOZdz6xeieLQwpMaloK9SPvkw4TUckSmIywEV5A2E0Ei-iLqKzhvWWtNQ07tUh8SvAKgS7OeVTrBzGdsJHcZiV0gHE-tH2hscqO7kE5pjNc8rHD61EFjJI6R0c5vRO7DQYUZJqFxNUwl4/s640/P1060007.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We stop to ask for water at this house and are welcomed in by Alex and Fafi, a couple of expats enjoying the good life in Uruguay. After plenty of interesting conversation we are put to bed in a private apartment. Too bad we have a flight to catch and can only stay one night!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSlWKg-ZzZNZtMVEak6-ecnf-51tDNiAA_zUFE0uorhyphenhyphenoEurPpQkDoi9sFG2eAfZhhGT6WsfXddfQN_BWSJyRj_U7BnrTUJFvtKyxJDxoMR7PHRpQFG21KX76bGiOTfjIM5ztwKEJiEPoE/s1600/IMG_3266.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSlWKg-ZzZNZtMVEak6-ecnf-51tDNiAA_zUFE0uorhyphenhyphenoEurPpQkDoi9sFG2eAfZhhGT6WsfXddfQN_BWSJyRj_U7BnrTUJFvtKyxJDxoMR7PHRpQFG21KX76bGiOTfjIM5ztwKEJiEPoE/s640/IMG_3266.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In Nueva Helvecia, a sizeable village off the route 1, we found this place. Uruguay has a big cycling culture, only surpassed by that of Colombia in South America. Inside, we are given a historical tour of the premises, filled with old photos of racing cyclists. Nowadays it is more like a bar, where locals drink booze in the morning.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoUmdSz0_b7nuQ9FPA0jhs64CAguk9Ctjbb5X-6c1IXalYnPi-t9Yfc2PqAsKwE2OhqhzXCQKuRzBymZ_IvTcqysmBH0oFRVDEOV-goix4Sn9ch4rbC4HXHDyvZh6eEOMLFqHNQFCRYrUT/s1600/P1060008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoUmdSz0_b7nuQ9FPA0jhs64CAguk9Ctjbb5X-6c1IXalYnPi-t9Yfc2PqAsKwE2OhqhzXCQKuRzBymZ_IvTcqysmBH0oFRVDEOV-goix4Sn9ch4rbC4HXHDyvZh6eEOMLFqHNQFCRYrUT/s640/P1060008.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Continuing along quiet dirt roads, we come across small settlements which, of course, have a public space to make <i>asados</i>. Much like in Argentina, Uruguayans love their beef. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBv_rzRI2VQxtn-1zzzbdtG9wUFGQ0qDXdSh4c2gb-ogTyGGcyhYJOT2reQxAAJfYZeqOB5fZtgwiI0KaZvajWZdHsnOSzdB6u8epdaKa9JPPv3AiUXX_SmnSSoEBpnkOXhbA4unfAiqdY/s1600/P1060015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBv_rzRI2VQxtn-1zzzbdtG9wUFGQ0qDXdSh4c2gb-ogTyGGcyhYJOT2reQxAAJfYZeqOB5fZtgwiI0KaZvajWZdHsnOSzdB6u8epdaKa9JPPv3AiUXX_SmnSSoEBpnkOXhbA4unfAiqdY/s640/P1060015.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But also, they produce pretty decent wines. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tannat">Tannat</a> is the most typical grape in this part of the world, but they barely export it internationally</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTy9rH13fgFQyrg91QUPEMdeQdVb6ksg0J8TdcAOwf4iQrQU0biMkeNMfyx-nH4OKVZNpsCJtwrZwHSsIwlMAyJ_Vc96BeVPMj2KOxCYGbz8QIOPuh_qrngpMK-Tcyu9QbWqzHSzbb_x3B/s1600/IMG_3271.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTy9rH13fgFQyrg91QUPEMdeQdVb6ksg0J8TdcAOwf4iQrQU0biMkeNMfyx-nH4OKVZNpsCJtwrZwHSsIwlMAyJ_Vc96BeVPMj2KOxCYGbz8QIOPuh_qrngpMK-Tcyu9QbWqzHSzbb_x3B/s640/IMG_3271.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Somewhere close to the large village of Canelones, we meet Hugo, a very friendly retired man who now works some Sundays in the gas station that he once owned. Among other things, he tells us how the local election system works, and how he got involved with politics.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW8CLvf2mKDPlJ9wI_xKwLI8qV1RvyM3_Skar31RB7gRZALStZ_YbEHuqYcdFNz6LlrnVAtJbDxsbGjw_Hm1GdmXtiSeB5162jcYpn7x3O5qVC8gAxp0M2jflgVeTOyHHzP7_c-eA6xrhc/s1600/P1060025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW8CLvf2mKDPlJ9wI_xKwLI8qV1RvyM3_Skar31RB7gRZALStZ_YbEHuqYcdFNz6LlrnVAtJbDxsbGjw_Hm1GdmXtiSeB5162jcYpn7x3O5qVC8gAxp0M2jflgVeTOyHHzP7_c-eA6xrhc/s640/P1060025.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In San Bautista, we resupply and Albeto snaps a photo of his well worn out jockey wheel.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI5CGVsS892xiiZhqhOURpVuLKphU0JuuAGNR6rYUcFffTtzqXFUqJuiXbk5lF8ScC2vYiImf5Qv5WA7tZRSQ4ic-Awz31zpFjMgfY_r9ip8DZr-j-QUezXbJkPgH3X0AHDEdZgnmnUvXx/s1600/P1060037.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI5CGVsS892xiiZhqhOURpVuLKphU0JuuAGNR6rYUcFffTtzqXFUqJuiXbk5lF8ScC2vYiImf5Qv5WA7tZRSQ4ic-Awz31zpFjMgfY_r9ip8DZr-j-QUezXbJkPgH3X0AHDEdZgnmnUvXx/s640/P1060037.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Resupplying isn´t much of an issue in Uruguay´s Southern regions - there´s plenty of villages which have everything you need, including that precious hot water for your <i>mate.</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPfpRkKxRKKqP9o-fTgDBW4PgxE3IWzIIs_CebiPCXUWvTC31p6L8A3AEEgsdxB4oCGCjc_G6BaQ2W2vzpH4dISsHybaMMANh21gZaGNuha-YBqWfPykqzzcqmH3UJ0CxfLPoAR8k1k7L-/s1600/P1060034.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPfpRkKxRKKqP9o-fTgDBW4PgxE3IWzIIs_CebiPCXUWvTC31p6L8A3AEEgsdxB4oCGCjc_G6BaQ2W2vzpH4dISsHybaMMANh21gZaGNuha-YBqWfPykqzzcqmH3UJ0CxfLPoAR8k1k7L-/s640/P1060034.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just outside of the town of Minas, we camped in a kind woman´s backyard, cook a feast of polenta with fresh veg and indulge in the last of our Argentinian wines. The hard life of cycle touring in Uruguay...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy0MXewpaBe7RYVF44O8f7h83PxyaOqq4IyoTxP5O7iALf4XCY-9TfnNF6k6O1zSPeNAOaozdnXWKFAZDetH_nWoI6OvPbplc6lJ-PM2jR6-CWFvqG_N_CbcgP9i2toZPm6Nabtwq1nSZ0/s1600/P1060039.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy0MXewpaBe7RYVF44O8f7h83PxyaOqq4IyoTxP5O7iALf4XCY-9TfnNF6k6O1zSPeNAOaozdnXWKFAZDetH_nWoI6OvPbplc6lJ-PM2jR6-CWFvqG_N_CbcgP9i2toZPm6Nabtwq1nSZ0/s640/P1060039.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After Minas we opt for a dirt road that avoids the main ruta 8, and what a surprise that was! No traffic, just the occasional friendly <i>gaucho</i> and lots of cattle. We are in timber country!</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgflZckWjyFX3oOsB-6RNabOM_ypwdlqKVf8tfpnzMUA_7BEO8NTCX6Zv0NFxeCqvSMVt5v5ImEk35zR9m-hOC_E6NR-RsVzlJnvK1LcIF-3NP7JzUsXHkXJH11__4nDdGsBkiZ-EDrIN3L/s1600/P1060040.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgflZckWjyFX3oOsB-6RNabOM_ypwdlqKVf8tfpnzMUA_7BEO8NTCX6Zv0NFxeCqvSMVt5v5ImEk35zR9m-hOC_E6NR-RsVzlJnvK1LcIF-3NP7JzUsXHkXJH11__4nDdGsBkiZ-EDrIN3L/s640/P1060040.JPG" width="640" /></a><br />
There´s even some bumps to keep our long-forgotten climbing legs entertained.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyut_gZztqYLWp1N8zcytA5hpD1a11v1STe7Rf5_dzcE0EVBmv4VripsYoEC_zvHQRLLJFYRBpsNO8YzLYhWzaM5FLqyMNGtqF4jgvVI7duaPFQEy_8RlcIpl1kl5BMen_4LGsdIRVOdbm/s1600/IMG_3276.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyut_gZztqYLWp1N8zcytA5hpD1a11v1STe7Rf5_dzcE0EVBmv4VripsYoEC_zvHQRLLJFYRBpsNO8YzLYhWzaM5FLqyMNGtqF4jgvVI7duaPFQEy_8RlcIpl1kl5BMen_4LGsdIRVOdbm/s640/IMG_3276.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">As sunset arrives, and like almost every day in Uruguay, we are treated to a great camp spot in the countryside.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi45OL7YOILFZM6QSAt2PDEe125LAIp8nmlCq9cU0fuddsSRTQxiBfrg4ypOIxd4rKFv9qmZ0MzxlRkAMhEXnG6Ee3g79cbqIgWujbuuNyMOXqit19CfPp52xz0ug0f7FC2FA3XBs726grJ/s1600/IMG_3278.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi45OL7YOILFZM6QSAt2PDEe125LAIp8nmlCq9cU0fuddsSRTQxiBfrg4ypOIxd4rKFv9qmZ0MzxlRkAMhEXnG6Ee3g79cbqIgWujbuuNyMOXqit19CfPp52xz0ug0f7FC2FA3XBs726grJ/s640/IMG_3278.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the morning, the double track we were following becomes single and not much travelled.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqcBMwwskQY-ct8WCrVCb6eRHKY1xJczFzIjA_40uzGJvbkDQBKghTA3vzf_S8QTd2Zj8b-RdHoE_7JbRfyA8rf3TTkarcSPbiFv5_VfCXUkywmE5NVY-iGycCVfVyKTGE4Es76q7v4cjj/s1600/IMG_3287.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqcBMwwskQY-ct8WCrVCb6eRHKY1xJczFzIjA_40uzGJvbkDQBKghTA3vzf_S8QTd2Zj8b-RdHoE_7JbRfyA8rf3TTkarcSPbiFv5_VfCXUkywmE5NVY-iGycCVfVyKTGE4Es76q7v4cjj/s640/IMG_3287.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We keep pushing and eventually arrived to Los Talas, a rather small settlement where the local policeman invites us to camp in his backyard. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4jQLJ0iF_jnh7qwkMWBse5v3ZPU4QdppgpUnJTiDkFSh0bFLeMGZjegv98WN-uvqwv12mXM6v9TvNIAWMAkW7KBiAIZe8sULmf3jQv_fe7R8dQ3uzMF4avpv1LvDTcgUlRPKziTc5SszW/s1600/P1060051.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4jQLJ0iF_jnh7qwkMWBse5v3ZPU4QdppgpUnJTiDkFSh0bFLeMGZjegv98WN-uvqwv12mXM6v9TvNIAWMAkW7KBiAIZe8sULmf3jQv_fe7R8dQ3uzMF4avpv1LvDTcgUlRPKziTc5SszW/s640/P1060051.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the misty morning of the following day, we get on the road, which is in much poorer state than its dirt counterparts, and has a ton of logging traffic! </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDOVKKYcOYyueDzu_h0Rpvl0s9JlT41aZGn6ak0jjxeiVY3jVqvK59oBrVX0C4rdv6CrOI8GNIG_p4vWgCEb_RNiOUZSdJauyjeagfWu3wpwNnybn29VAzUMCqcyWQZL-0JAAB27TRH8Zy/s1600/IMG_3288.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDOVKKYcOYyueDzu_h0Rpvl0s9JlT41aZGn6ak0jjxeiVY3jVqvK59oBrVX0C4rdv6CrOI8GNIG_p4vWgCEb_RNiOUZSdJauyjeagfWu3wpwNnybn29VAzUMCqcyWQZL-0JAAB27TRH8Zy/s640/IMG_3288.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As we approach the coast, which we have not seen yet since leaving Colonia, the scenery changes. Palm trees are now all around</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvZT5sAsrnsSwiFMtcqQxy2wh4pHIS8wpXFPI5wgItdEwv_2UjK0hphDU8HNwhHVB6Cnql4nYws-B2o6pWZObITJIX_YPhdRKGVW9gI36n4Fb5Z-kVzkeA3xOBGYJG8tlgoVwXe7-w4jss/s1600/P1060047.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvZT5sAsrnsSwiFMtcqQxy2wh4pHIS8wpXFPI5wgItdEwv_2UjK0hphDU8HNwhHVB6Cnql4nYws-B2o6pWZObITJIX_YPhdRKGVW9gI36n4Fb5Z-kVzkeA3xOBGYJG8tlgoVwXe7-w4jss/s640/P1060047.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As well as cattle...Most of the beef is exported to China these days. 100% free range and grass fed.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi364TYTHIBZHD-oU_EbNAjZwOZ2ewkknyfilOFHxrMa4rKZdfC3EaStSWEUJGouwZ3ms08elRFRM9Jd4CQ6TEOYu-2w9tBUoMrhzday1hKMz346e6kJa4DQMQjfO6T9JRp60EF_SatS4Fl/s1600/P1060069.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi364TYTHIBZHD-oU_EbNAjZwOZ2ewkknyfilOFHxrMa4rKZdfC3EaStSWEUJGouwZ3ms08elRFRM9Jd4CQ6TEOYu-2w9tBUoMrhzday1hKMz346e6kJa4DQMQjfO6T9JRp60EF_SatS4Fl/s640/P1060069.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We stop at a roadside birdwatching hut which looks out over a vast wetland area. It feels like Nat Geo!</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSYdcH_7EKPQ2FQ2BPHh9HGe2FvEVsLFIbfLmtxrCthYlcviviIWuH7b8tczKbJEH3tX9DGJJVipKRKuK410WSSmTSv214jLPBsiRFZNtXss85qICbTSaTZqOKSkUGQJiZ1wS7UsMA-THc/s1600/IMG_3295.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSYdcH_7EKPQ2FQ2BPHh9HGe2FvEVsLFIbfLmtxrCthYlcviviIWuH7b8tczKbJEH3tX9DGJJVipKRKuK410WSSmTSv214jLPBsiRFZNtXss85qICbTSaTZqOKSkUGQJiZ1wS7UsMA-THc/s640/IMG_3295.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We eventually hit the coast, cycling past this impressive fortress at Santa Teresa</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfkSJpnDYpamG4EXZvMA_3Gh5_aqLBDYpdDqWLBSTGm0bhEx7SYTJCa77PyIEzfkMPEjTHbYigC6yAMu9drrGAH57sfa7WUq68DyGVwREpWv9NQ9aWnm9dc1f-MATnZhr9LRhf9eAEK4gW/s1600/P1060101.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfkSJpnDYpamG4EXZvMA_3Gh5_aqLBDYpdDqWLBSTGm0bhEx7SYTJCa77PyIEzfkMPEjTHbYigC6yAMu9drrGAH57sfa7WUq68DyGVwREpWv9NQ9aWnm9dc1f-MATnZhr9LRhf9eAEK4gW/s640/P1060101.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And then finally, there we are! The Atlantic coast of Uruguay! Although we had spent the past days avoiding the coast in favour of the quiet inland roads, we have to admit that it is stunningly beautiful.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDDmofnKCHqQZjMrRiBnVJBrz6_TA7RBX6qGN2AeFjQMtfGRJyqKJA-F5Kmd44EEqnhiii3jFMRhAv8TTnb3x0BnzNHqmLKvH_bLD3FQrF2XuKVcGMc4cheBHDcImTzrPOgOfhTRGwAM5r/s1600/P1060109.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDDmofnKCHqQZjMrRiBnVJBrz6_TA7RBX6qGN2AeFjQMtfGRJyqKJA-F5Kmd44EEqnhiii3jFMRhAv8TTnb3x0BnzNHqmLKvH_bLD3FQrF2XuKVcGMc4cheBHDcImTzrPOgOfhTRGwAM5r/s640/P1060109.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the Parque Nacional Santa Teresa, mushrooms grow in the forest.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVgbZ4lK-Ab6qWDjM5eICpL4rfyCALTXBfkwwvZSDqkcxuEU9M1AjxfYqBqR3nvkcWtnSTYRzxPeL5niPXnl9MW65utuPw3uIrBZCXfJQt6GSB2_wPEeqWXgG3EVH2XbvkizVSkAx65U9e/s1600/P1060122.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVgbZ4lK-Ab6qWDjM5eICpL4rfyCALTXBfkwwvZSDqkcxuEU9M1AjxfYqBqR3nvkcWtnSTYRzxPeL5niPXnl9MW65utuPw3uIrBZCXfJQt6GSB2_wPEeqWXgG3EVH2XbvkizVSkAx65U9e/s640/P1060122.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We arrive to Punta del Diablo where our warmshowers hosts, Kerry and Joshua, take us in. They live only a few minutes from the beach which means it´s not too hard to take a walk to the beach for sunrise the next morning (joined by their dogs).</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr4JXVKvkDUOU-cQ38-gLUodvypJE8Qca0MV66HramtAWo5Q4SohZma0MYsJC_Cm2J7ht9GqDEe7JP0sgUgJl0BLN1QOoz4fTEpWykSQOXmcVkOzHWtrAd9N8o8hAFYc-h11puA0kSMEA0/s1600/P1060127.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr4JXVKvkDUOU-cQ38-gLUodvypJE8Qca0MV66HramtAWo5Q4SohZma0MYsJC_Cm2J7ht9GqDEe7JP0sgUgJl0BLN1QOoz4fTEpWykSQOXmcVkOzHWtrAd9N8o8hAFYc-h11puA0kSMEA0/s640/P1060127.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kerry is a great cook and whips up luxurious breakfasts (poached eggs/spinach on home-made English muffin, with avocado!) as if they were nothing. So it´s no wonder we abandon our plans to ride a few more days and decide to enjoy the good life instead, taking the bus from Punta del Diablo to Montevideo in order to keep on schedule for our flight. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnFSoWnkKtldNiWCWnlehz-Q_mdu2gaxGAlEqd-3sg6eIcUiI0AUhU9npwFr_tI7BXlwYTnHPw5R9jolAfF1Wkh2z55KL7VDwq7FtwM1NG99FLAB3NiKh1NkpfJ9AkzitsOyq-8CBoniAZ/s1600/P1060131.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnFSoWnkKtldNiWCWnlehz-Q_mdu2gaxGAlEqd-3sg6eIcUiI0AUhU9npwFr_tI7BXlwYTnHPw5R9jolAfF1Wkh2z55KL7VDwq7FtwM1NG99FLAB3NiKh1NkpfJ9AkzitsOyq-8CBoniAZ/s640/P1060131.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kerry and Joshua are housesitting in a charming house that the owners built themselves from scratch. Here, the outside fridge.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf7sTZQo98082K_Q_7Q9nOI-sAL40pLA-WlqLHHzyCauVWm0TjxXkgHI_OVEwvqHjJs2AYdXOiTiGXuke0vselt58GHymqo-2aR8WXWRaV1zYBX7xe4IMO7EMIVnveEm6Dk9OyJ4C46ZjP/s1600/P1060133.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf7sTZQo98082K_Q_7Q9nOI-sAL40pLA-WlqLHHzyCauVWm0TjxXkgHI_OVEwvqHjJs2AYdXOiTiGXuke0vselt58GHymqo-2aR8WXWRaV1zYBX7xe4IMO7EMIVnveEm6Dk9OyJ4C46ZjP/s640/P1060133.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally we have to leave this slice of paradise in order to get to Montevideo in plenty of time for our flight. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdwZhFzsRHlCXmHbYa7HeO_47wYq15DNpLF3JGZzWGFGRMt1spgUICFH_jzGeV3iJ92U6Z3OAJRCbNE6aHfnRY_fr_1Vhkek9DtP46NWFZdB7u2bea_n44r9nGAR7aW_RZBvx32mB41H2b/s1600/P1060161.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdwZhFzsRHlCXmHbYa7HeO_47wYq15DNpLF3JGZzWGFGRMt1spgUICFH_jzGeV3iJ92U6Z3OAJRCbNE6aHfnRY_fr_1Vhkek9DtP46NWFZdB7u2bea_n44r9nGAR7aW_RZBvx32mB41H2b/s640/P1060161.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In Montevideo we are welcomed by our Couchsurfing host Emilio, who kindly puts us up for a few days so we can see the city and pack our bikes for the flight to the US.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlYo0Zr4ODMUGepMQab4VD5Kqgv6O37tuj6miBHyNQwBsH6j-RhLPae4F8dRVZ032xpD3kdupspQa-H04BiXImZz04qJyK2l-59phCA6pu9AH0lElJDgj1TvOqibDShiM9koVzD978hAVV/s1600/P1060167.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlYo0Zr4ODMUGepMQab4VD5Kqgv6O37tuj6miBHyNQwBsH6j-RhLPae4F8dRVZ032xpD3kdupspQa-H04BiXImZz04qJyK2l-59phCA6pu9AH0lElJDgj1TvOqibDShiM9koVzD978hAVV/s640/P1060167.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Montevideo turns out to be totally enchanting, and unlike the rest of South American capitals, is a manageable size.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixtgIKuDszSvLuCEOpYSHrJgr7FuqUrfbPfXHLv6Xxb39sBSEf-3f9Bdio46jQawa4P9T452xXSNYSJMBZovZOKMVup1lxU55lJXU3uZZoG3okMGKPpBQstXLgQqexQCBYG01uI8s8wlfv/s1600/P1060141.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixtgIKuDszSvLuCEOpYSHrJgr7FuqUrfbPfXHLv6Xxb39sBSEf-3f9Bdio46jQawa4P9T452xXSNYSJMBZovZOKMVup1lxU55lJXU3uZZoG3okMGKPpBQstXLgQqexQCBYG01uI8s8wlfv/s640/P1060141.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We explore the city´s markets...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEkFN6KLVhhZJ0xXweA1q2SCx4pdoD3sRqxuXCpoqfe2ankwPTrRaFIsdmJgHxsZz9VKJoagA_MXc92nQpn5JTqUil3MB5m813XDFwIzdAhLd4Rk3f4uKoS61PEItsHk6QJ6rdZmceJUmk/s1600/P1060157.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEkFN6KLVhhZJ0xXweA1q2SCx4pdoD3sRqxuXCpoqfe2ankwPTrRaFIsdmJgHxsZz9VKJoagA_MXc92nQpn5JTqUil3MB5m813XDFwIzdAhLd4Rk3f4uKoS61PEItsHk6QJ6rdZmceJUmk/s640/P1060157.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...admire the city´s art...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfeckU2WV8o55fK1F9mFx92pGAIUrv82HmW4MNBrrbjy1SYJ0e53m7sFg6_wiWY8udJJMWmMLl_S2XZhaBzoBcM8vLu7Eo5hNJJrFchMovOx0CJjNol2k4gNnCssYeupPz8SdsTDsWmwwl/s1600/P1060155.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfeckU2WV8o55fK1F9mFx92pGAIUrv82HmW4MNBrrbjy1SYJ0e53m7sFg6_wiWY8udJJMWmMLl_S2XZhaBzoBcM8vLu7Eo5hNJJrFchMovOx0CJjNol2k4gNnCssYeupPz8SdsTDsWmwwl/s640/P1060155.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and its architecture.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM_rLGwIEjbclmcHqzmELSfyTv4c7J5LOx1AuJ3Mi9XI7S8hVui44JB6mVtXjztzy0Ia9_E_HrVew4AiZ6abfHefb_mdRBcANbPOGPMFN2pURvHUCummJT3DNdpEia5n-kNG63s0cE-TNQ/s1600/P1060156.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM_rLGwIEjbclmcHqzmELSfyTv4c7J5LOx1AuJ3Mi9XI7S8hVui44JB6mVtXjztzy0Ia9_E_HrVew4AiZ6abfHefb_mdRBcANbPOGPMFN2pURvHUCummJT3DNdpEia5n-kNG63s0cE-TNQ/s640/P1060156.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We are pleased to see plenty of cycling culture in Montevideo.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhelESUvib77ALXKvJAEZsLJcgyzGyDjV1ibRmLkB8TFx8Jnejm1Y_cU_DCJCPv9oM8P1bX6M6gfdtaYRW5FEWpzndx7axws-8H4ZvPHl2NqQYVNDmFryELEJFlqsc40kEvHbIGtIxnmiWH/s1600/P1060152.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhelESUvib77ALXKvJAEZsLJcgyzGyDjV1ibRmLkB8TFx8Jnejm1Y_cU_DCJCPv9oM8P1bX6M6gfdtaYRW5FEWpzndx7axws-8H4ZvPHl2NqQYVNDmFryELEJFlqsc40kEvHbIGtIxnmiWH/s640/P1060152.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Uruguayans are so genteel that helmets are provided with the city´s bikeshare program.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4J_pPeVQXDItLVVUu85yF9Xfzg22IeSrIPPXzzTe7A03ZWptb_xXXHkFqmw8Z8FsdAfuuXDCuqYnCLAdPBYWdAfMqYIDMWhc-diSVPAwqCcQ3GT-KiMJZjtlzAHOUrT0wBeivsUbQcWZA/s1600/P1060173.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4J_pPeVQXDItLVVUu85yF9Xfzg22IeSrIPPXzzTe7A03ZWptb_xXXHkFqmw8Z8FsdAfuuXDCuqYnCLAdPBYWdAfMqYIDMWhc-diSVPAwqCcQ3GT-KiMJZjtlzAHOUrT0wBeivsUbQcWZA/s640/P1060173.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Street art is everywhere...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGWhPV1CSsqzt0f24_p93WPkwVPCPBIlPwVJWQguK3H0pSMpiEDxGQn86W6WmjFd5mYJyynKlVPtkHXVKAWKEnsc7UN7jzCnf6s0ZTpPtYJ3-qoogveYotHi5tmgx9aMMut80RD7EYVo4i/s1600/P1060196.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGWhPV1CSsqzt0f24_p93WPkwVPCPBIlPwVJWQguK3H0pSMpiEDxGQn86W6WmjFd5mYJyynKlVPtkHXVKAWKEnsc7UN7jzCnf6s0ZTpPtYJ3-qoogveYotHi5tmgx9aMMut80RD7EYVo4i/s640/P1060196.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">..like a cleaner version of Valparaiso...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy01eql3X7N22OEt9udPVeSLiQM1KoikgT9sbOIK7VOZrzvVhkSl1cPBfGhMoKpH4TaDBmxzOxvcRTCwFzkkRgo_PYVbeuXEv8cpYYuxGoGKT9zgUfvIvWL1NRqEUQv9_3oK_OFS-cQqV_/s1600/P1060199.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy01eql3X7N22OEt9udPVeSLiQM1KoikgT9sbOIK7VOZrzvVhkSl1cPBfGhMoKpH4TaDBmxzOxvcRTCwFzkkRgo_PYVbeuXEv8cpYYuxGoGKT9zgUfvIvWL1NRqEUQv9_3oK_OFS-cQqV_/s640/P1060199.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...we are truly impressed.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6_69pqnf5zk0XosZiQx3Mgywe2ZhCpQwhXSuCQWBbXifYw16kuDrJ0Y-_mfNMvtJ4ZeyOSExCc_NP-BzbhyMgis8qx6E2WNUWoTNKTUFBClbYbDE3gNZxBT0K7CFCA62uYpPw8-Xw7SWH/s1600/P1060186.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6_69pqnf5zk0XosZiQx3Mgywe2ZhCpQwhXSuCQWBbXifYw16kuDrJ0Y-_mfNMvtJ4ZeyOSExCc_NP-BzbhyMgis8qx6E2WNUWoTNKTUFBClbYbDE3gNZxBT0K7CFCA62uYpPw8-Xw7SWH/s640/P1060186.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The city´s location on the Rio de la Plata makes for great scenery too.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJehP8Gr-eEvaF7Ve-RqC5egKZUMKYgfK98aligH_U4KHMMHlAnRmALneg8AnUTldIOf4pSvLSnGhj5-4cWwAxY5oU4kYr0hYmPgUcBDNUaAZ-RwOqrZj7Lb4ohqllvShUHxPKm955bU5z/s1600/P1060201.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJehP8Gr-eEvaF7Ve-RqC5egKZUMKYgfK98aligH_U4KHMMHlAnRmALneg8AnUTldIOf4pSvLSnGhj5-4cWwAxY5oU4kYr0hYmPgUcBDNUaAZ-RwOqrZj7Lb4ohqllvShUHxPKm955bU5z/s640/P1060201.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCifQH0U1cI8qUhNnuyRO9vp7c6gvWNNEx5tVLjenxTt6eF9R491TPSRGgYoYr9pF6x-i2JfAy48sxmStTnLFMgFcqVBZeMSOMJi-oEX3MqfZ8wcXFNiIrxHNlNND9z8SZfgNi-SN0YWRQ/s1600/P1060160.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCifQH0U1cI8qUhNnuyRO9vp7c6gvWNNEx5tVLjenxTt6eF9R491TPSRGgYoYr9pF6x-i2JfAy48sxmStTnLFMgFcqVBZeMSOMJi-oEX3MqfZ8wcXFNiIrxHNlNND9z8SZfgNi-SN0YWRQ/s640/P1060160.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eventually, tourist time has to end so we can get down to the business of packing the bikes...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Y2mkTP4FcugmjCLhs4HeZIx3BVyLane2p79tKZ2AOI3Rk8m1nvnoLVABdDQ3J-vkRM-f906sw4vL1GGCzAa5BbKEH3zwW3sxSk6wnhYjs8lelBojy05CoYfGDa4y2mGvfUo7GEBlG8dl/s1600/P1060137.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Y2mkTP4FcugmjCLhs4HeZIx3BVyLane2p79tKZ2AOI3Rk8m1nvnoLVABdDQ3J-vkRM-f906sw4vL1GGCzAa5BbKEH3zwW3sxSk6wnhYjs8lelBojy05CoYfGDa4y2mGvfUo7GEBlG8dl/s640/P1060137.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...although first we have time to make fun of the Uruguayan obsession with <i>mate</i>. Here Alberto replicates an actual scene from our time here. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8hjPs811yHr0aubzsomB41SCZQQn0JgK8qmI_AWeuSv6h8ge-wZ4qRvbjTEiII09uWJzDrd4lbs-Ziav1rE9Lym7KzbC-VPlAc6vP7nhrh3nXjR0GAdz_nuCJ1_-BxFXWtL6W_IXJdK6O/s1600/P1060162.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8hjPs811yHr0aubzsomB41SCZQQn0JgK8qmI_AWeuSv6h8ge-wZ4qRvbjTEiII09uWJzDrd4lbs-Ziav1rE9Lym7KzbC-VPlAc6vP7nhrh3nXjR0GAdz_nuCJ1_-BxFXWtL6W_IXJdK6O/s640/P1060162.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally it´s time to pack up the bikes, taking them apart more than usual in an attempt to pay lower fees with the airline. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Route notes:<br />
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- We chose to take inland roads to avoid the country's main highway along the coast. See the route <a href="http://machacasonwheels.blogspot.co.uk/p/blog-page.html">here</a>. In general, we found most of the paved roads in Uruguay (even 'minor' ones) too busy for our liking. While traffic volume was relatively low, it mainly takes the form of logging trucks barreling down the road at high speeds.<br />
- Fortunately, Uruguay is well mapped on OSM and Google maps, and we were almost always able to find dirt road alternatives. The dirt roads of Uruguay are almost universally in very good condition. <br />
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Albertohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15789158563391048740noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-69330680339899691072015-06-04T21:34:00.000+01:002015-06-05T03:15:16.544+01:00Ushuaia and Buenos Aires: Last days in Argentina<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Ushuaia is not the most loved place among bike travellers. Not only is it the final stop for many South-bound cyclists, but also an expensive, touristy town that has given it a bit of bad reputation. As much as we had previously worried about riding late into the autumn, our fears never materialised and the weather was with us for almost every day. When we arrived to Ushuaia, we even had some days of warm sunshine! It was indeed a normal town, with just one busy commercial street but with prices lower down than in the worst of the high season. Add to that the magnificent scenery of the city, with snow-capped mountains and a beautiful coast, and you have a recipe for greatness. </div>
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Argentinians claim it to be the Southern-most city in the world (there is still Puerto Williams a bit further South, and arguably a <i>pueblo</i>, in Chile), which in itself already warrants some extra tourists. But what really thrives in the city (apart from the fishing and oil) is the Antarctica business. Just out of curiosity, we found that tickets range from anything between $5000 and upwards of $20.000 for a mere 10 day vacation, surely enough to have a pretty luxurious bike ride all the way from Alaska. But luckily, all that was gone in late April, so we had the city and its surroundings to ourselves. Thanks also to Alba, owner of <a href="http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g312855-d485558-Reviews-Alba_s_House-Ushuaia_Province_of_Tierra_del_Fuego_Patagonia.html">Alba´s house</a> and a member of <a href="https://www.warmshowers.org/">Warmshowers</a>, we enjoyed the comforts of a room and a proper mattress, both things we hadn´t been able to enjoy for quite a while. So we spent a few days, soaked in the atmosphere, ate delicious empanadas and alfajores, and eventually cycled to the airport to get on a dreaded plane that flew us back to the warmer latitudes of Buenos Aires. </div>
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Buenos Aires had always been in our mind, so we took a few days to explore some parts of the city, while at same time stuffing ourselves with incredible foods and wines...oh, and also planning the next leg of our trip, laid-back Uruguay. Having an old <i>porteño</i> friend in town was indeed much appreciated, as the city is quite big and too fast-paced (for South American standards, that is!). At times we thought we were in Madrid, others in London. With Ezequiel we got to visit some of the typical and not-so typical sites, learning a bit more of what goes on in Argentina. <i>Buena onda</i> all around. It was sad to leave, but we are sure to be back sometime for more Malbecs and asados...there´s just so much of our beloved Argentina that we did not get to see!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After days a couple of days of gray skies, clouds moved on and we enjoyed some summer-ish weather</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ushuaia´s residential neighborhoods and the Martial mountains</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In Ushuaia you are sure not to find kind words towards the English - here it reads "prohibited the docking of English pirate boats"</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Antartica, so close yet so far (and expensive!)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We´d learned of a coastal route towards Estancia Harberton, best done on unloaded bikes, so there we went on a day ride</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The coastal road ends and joins a double/single track</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwxUUES9-NLMoFuJ7dUeriEdGVvll9HtNszq3Fm0FGAPKzjyJ_IpVRtMIXq99XiZO58YNOUkukGJSoFCQp4cqIydOovl6kFqYv1ap3LYiOlkvAmUEnEraEs06EsmBf_b5hzwQaNH91jcOY/s1600/P1050905.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwxUUES9-NLMoFuJ7dUeriEdGVvll9HtNszq3Fm0FGAPKzjyJ_IpVRtMIXq99XiZO58YNOUkukGJSoFCQp4cqIydOovl6kFqYv1ap3LYiOlkvAmUEnEraEs06EsmBf_b5hzwQaNH91jcOY/s640/P1050905.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Behind Lucy, 40 km in the distance, Puerto Williams (truly the Southernmost settlement in South America)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxQRb3SWI_G7SGM6-gtpfH0CeUiCQt5ZfhME4Q6HbBdeLGwLauzObL3En1gr8wHlhsX067qZTV9Re2hqQcRrFGfprv2_jxOVNfHdRxhdTf0yMDtTc4_1SrFnUIBWmejvFCmlqogpi64dRw/s1600/P1050909.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxQRb3SWI_G7SGM6-gtpfH0CeUiCQt5ZfhME4Q6HbBdeLGwLauzObL3En1gr8wHlhsX067qZTV9Re2hqQcRrFGfprv2_jxOVNfHdRxhdTf0yMDtTc4_1SrFnUIBWmejvFCmlqogpi64dRw/s640/P1050909.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At some point we realise our worn out Marathon Mondial tyres are past their mountain biking days - with more than 16.000 km on them they have become slick tyres. Add to that the slippery roots and mud and you have got an almost guaranteed fall. We turned around and headed back...until next time</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On a different day we swapped bikes for boots and hiked up to the Martial glaciar, Ushuaia´s main drinking water source</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christophe, the Basque-<i>Frenchie</i> we had been cycling with in the past month, was also there. Gusty winds and snow prevented us from getting to the actual glaciar, but the views over to the Beagle channel and Ushuaia were well worth it!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So we returned to Alba´s house in time for dinner</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf7Yoft2-Tmji7q2AmE56-_Lhv8qKyStCc0AytGn0dWcQKemmOCUtxZNqxBL4QVi1s4Nh0DpnSmOEM5ZtiBDXDmpWa5uRbfUyMilm9laZ0Y5q6qRhXdnV8g3Ylf9Bk4WJK1CE0w1yjpsT4/s1600/P1050938.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf7Yoft2-Tmji7q2AmE56-_Lhv8qKyStCc0AytGn0dWcQKemmOCUtxZNqxBL4QVi1s4Nh0DpnSmOEM5ZtiBDXDmpWa5uRbfUyMilm9laZ0Y5q6qRhXdnV8g3Ylf9Bk4WJK1CE0w1yjpsT4/s640/P1050938.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The day before our flight to Buenos Aires we enjoyed some warm weather and picnicked in one of the parks</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc8ghX_D5B7uThEPvJTdZm2pxGNKjl0JJj4VfioF_vmciFdyV_KOVLFaY4HuF8spSWjyC5-L_KjwoOX5JVbNqnX0FZ3h1IiPp0R1dx-XNfb9hK58zQt5-PDaZNnVXoBshVBuKIWk7c1zUp/s1600/P1050941.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc8ghX_D5B7uThEPvJTdZm2pxGNKjl0JJj4VfioF_vmciFdyV_KOVLFaY4HuF8spSWjyC5-L_KjwoOX5JVbNqnX0FZ3h1IiPp0R1dx-XNfb9hK58zQt5-PDaZNnVXoBshVBuKIWk7c1zUp/s640/P1050941.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But one last thing...we cooked these huge araucaria nuts (monkey-puzzle tree nuts) that had been carrying from Punta Arenas. If you have the chance, get some of these - they are incredibly tasty (boil them in water for at least an hour)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-KEUhqEVwxVXHBzxYWL3QGEqVvG4XQuxzrYsenAXBAjgQY2PDKquKYkNMTUQHBEFbRvOTHSWiTNol368SqSbykjBuNRl82PPQ-by4nhEGIlolIg0aEcRx4mgISRRxvpcQZw4xQMzfivRf/s1600/P1050944.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-KEUhqEVwxVXHBzxYWL3QGEqVvG4XQuxzrYsenAXBAjgQY2PDKquKYkNMTUQHBEFbRvOTHSWiTNol368SqSbykjBuNRl82PPQ-by4nhEGIlolIg0aEcRx4mgISRRxvpcQZw4xQMzfivRf/s640/P1050944.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On April 30th we cycle to the airport and get on an airbus plane, and cover more than 4 months worth of pedalling in just three hours. We see Buenos Aires through the window and wonder where the hell we have got ourselves into... we can´t even see the end of town!? </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFe-_Tq7rOv_TWDVLtBCb9iU9nHLiIjDq76dwWTiNpooomwViploX_1eyMkUOn6RGvYpwRIC6SI6o1dPm8asqT29lHdkdczegkciJQi9HmgMlKaDaXmu-wDbGhec4j8tlkeZpK1TGenXMD/s1600/P1050946.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFe-_Tq7rOv_TWDVLtBCb9iU9nHLiIjDq76dwWTiNpooomwViploX_1eyMkUOn6RGvYpwRIC6SI6o1dPm8asqT29lHdkdczegkciJQi9HmgMlKaDaXmu-wDbGhec4j8tlkeZpK1TGenXMD/s640/P1050946.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But luckily we had our incredible host Ezequiel waiting for us in town. So we assembled the bikes in Aeroparque and rode to his house (feels good after our terrible CO2 footprint). We are then treated to some of the best meat cut of our lives - Argentinians have a special relationship with meat.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVe-YeWjcvStmb6SJcv-3YFrMrvbUuoPDPBX9UBYymfGLMI7NbB6vnxDO0fG8_rJsET1Tn40xCcWgBOH2ijkcCjWTqOiaAtNi0jrlsvEGc4ypzvWb9Pf18aQNuUHJY7DmRkm0LACgpf2Rw/s1600/P1050950.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVe-YeWjcvStmb6SJcv-3YFrMrvbUuoPDPBX9UBYymfGLMI7NbB6vnxDO0fG8_rJsET1Tn40xCcWgBOH2ijkcCjWTqOiaAtNi0jrlsvEGc4ypzvWb9Pf18aQNuUHJY7DmRkm0LACgpf2Rw/s640/P1050950.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">While wandering about town, we can´t but think we have been transported back to London and our beloved London overground</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6j-K96CRN_9xpvCg9H9e6TUs-Lons34qzjeVp1w-nxj-aPJ_ZERaxZ52uxckz62GT15uByeLm0BbgBd450V5UkZenF5r1cTBsDXJEFvsN6lMpKgUcGtWlJYQDupWoVIzsCFjKcaw8phwU/s1600/P1050951.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6j-K96CRN_9xpvCg9H9e6TUs-Lons34qzjeVp1w-nxj-aPJ_ZERaxZ52uxckz62GT15uByeLm0BbgBd450V5UkZenF5r1cTBsDXJEFvsN6lMpKgUcGtWlJYQDupWoVIzsCFjKcaw8phwU/s640/P1050951.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ezequiel quickly points that the Brits did most of the railworks and snapped some proof of that. Ipswich!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-HdmS6xwl4LCzizDTFVVJf_8exhPN0DA8P2ft8gMP8mujzM1DY65ZlHZC5jIUXsrdpVYZWAGJsq8TUB3LDBSvbYmzKmYk9UlrSHmzJRhIEiNzyqTF8FoX_1RAcKVBvVZCsBfgGaTXZbwA/s1600/P1050953.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-HdmS6xwl4LCzizDTFVVJf_8exhPN0DA8P2ft8gMP8mujzM1DY65ZlHZC5jIUXsrdpVYZWAGJsq8TUB3LDBSvbYmzKmYk9UlrSHmzJRhIEiNzyqTF8FoX_1RAcKVBvVZCsBfgGaTXZbwA/s640/P1050953.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sky scrappers </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgazbJlsRB2xjnCie3Ml1g_rqgBbZwR8MvFjrB6mwDEFeHC3lCB7ABeYH5haGds_S6m8PK4KI4EBzYNE9_KSdSOPoDbMl8goHGrDN3oODtc42odnHrUXnS4zT_j3zd-3o7HqBmCi1k9gNKx/s1600/P1050955.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgazbJlsRB2xjnCie3Ml1g_rqgBbZwR8MvFjrB6mwDEFeHC3lCB7ABeYH5haGds_S6m8PK4KI4EBzYNE9_KSdSOPoDbMl8goHGrDN3oODtc42odnHrUXnS4zT_j3zd-3o7HqBmCi1k9gNKx/s640/P1050955.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buenos Aires´ motorised traffic is some of the worst we´ve seen, and so is great that is also catching up with urban cycling. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVkId4mK5p7HnT9BLfX79EAsqMwSmc_R3kOojzUToM562r3Ys9YqA39wssmgcftZRSBGhCXYMH1A1q02MkfBJC0W4N9bLzreZnOUQ2vpZ-UsDgsdSTIIIptm6WJqXoTpcPkXM4EXuGQLyy/s1600/P1050957.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVkId4mK5p7HnT9BLfX79EAsqMwSmc_R3kOojzUToM562r3Ys9YqA39wssmgcftZRSBGhCXYMH1A1q02MkfBJC0W4N9bLzreZnOUQ2vpZ-UsDgsdSTIIIptm6WJqXoTpcPkXM4EXuGQLyy/s640/P1050957.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Without many green areas around, kayakists take on the water channels. Another reminder of the similarities with London, here with Canary Wharf</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZuC3nd_C1i2N4A8W4DVOnRmyRVB1l2Bj9TaNjmK1PjXvciQ4aJaJnZCzBmWSWQErifSLvslJF6hVOOO807jjsxHzxfHqrf5xOw2dOxgG3_eQdAeEpnQRJq1d2MIyEwxptESXEdA4BJ-Ye/s1600/P1050960.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZuC3nd_C1i2N4A8W4DVOnRmyRVB1l2Bj9TaNjmK1PjXvciQ4aJaJnZCzBmWSWQErifSLvslJF6hVOOO807jjsxHzxfHqrf5xOw2dOxgG3_eQdAeEpnQRJq1d2MIyEwxptESXEdA4BJ-Ye/s640/P1050960.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Advertisements were everywhere for this television show... political correctness being slightly different in South America.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_SP391eiz3e4ZzjVWvzqzZSVG0iu97kNemeIibbGJcT7JWqjfTa9f8p94VS_s5wzhaUiMe8h5Vj21mcVenY4-hepURoHVpMVtXPFvVdgGBv5MgDZLap2JZPOCUS-FYvouIZEcp5NFerc4/s1600/P1050961.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_SP391eiz3e4ZzjVWvzqzZSVG0iu97kNemeIibbGJcT7JWqjfTa9f8p94VS_s5wzhaUiMe8h5Vj21mcVenY4-hepURoHVpMVtXPFvVdgGBv5MgDZLap2JZPOCUS-FYvouIZEcp5NFerc4/s640/P1050961.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buenos Aires street art always surprised us...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5jTfUQCnrrr7WeqSiKl3ilBbK3UsS6m51WKisNJPXNWDqz4P1hZduG3AaTDEViQNjMOqIXpkc4tB-Pkoq3LN9rnBu09RWNhfGfNlsRMR0uAE6Mo09B2jsSgKgXo_5vdkx-LQgngZvr0jl/s1600/P1050962.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5jTfUQCnrrr7WeqSiKl3ilBbK3UsS6m51WKisNJPXNWDqz4P1hZduG3AaTDEViQNjMOqIXpkc4tB-Pkoq3LN9rnBu09RWNhfGfNlsRMR0uAE6Mo09B2jsSgKgXo_5vdkx-LQgngZvr0jl/s640/P1050962.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...often with interesting messages</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE2CsBt7PhdGJeBCDTB9HIgqWiV7kQAhtghpRd57mciRmVbSfAwH8USk6C2Xr5KkB8De2z_7QGxUg30SJXwJmqjCVocpwAdpQAwHefm0ZkAX5pwBVsQHClo4KxjBGjS11Q4iZ64d47bJO3/s1600/P1050965.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE2CsBt7PhdGJeBCDTB9HIgqWiV7kQAhtghpRd57mciRmVbSfAwH8USk6C2Xr5KkB8De2z_7QGxUg30SJXwJmqjCVocpwAdpQAwHefm0ZkAX5pwBVsQHClo4KxjBGjS11Q4iZ64d47bJO3/s640/P1050965.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some protesting </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl-9xrgbCnH7VSn93bIyKaAIYI98aOHNj7afoYfS0I6Mb9D9eGrkJtjsR8o_hmZKu7-ax2DuRgKCNOfKqB8SDKllIXGCGAzxnzYviAAvnP80KkYY7fFD9aUNEvKWVQxIdd6jOd6cGw8Sk5/s1600/P1050977.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl-9xrgbCnH7VSn93bIyKaAIYI98aOHNj7afoYfS0I6Mb9D9eGrkJtjsR8o_hmZKu7-ax2DuRgKCNOfKqB8SDKllIXGCGAzxnzYviAAvnP80KkYY7fFD9aUNEvKWVQxIdd6jOd6cGw8Sk5/s640/P1050977.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Italian cemetery</td></tr>
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Next up Uruguay, a tiny (for South America) country that really surprised us with its laid-back atmosphere, educated and friendly locals, and a very cool capital.<br />
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<br />Albertohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15789158563391048740noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-26678041306028836272015-05-28T16:06:00.000+01:002015-05-28T16:06:12.584+01:00Foods of South America: Ecuador and ColombiaFor years, we´ve been known to travel for food and we always try and sample the local produce of the places we travel through (budget allowing, of course!). When we decided to cycle the length of South America, we knew that food was going to play a big role. Back in December 2013, all we were aware of regarding South American food was ceviches (yet not really knowing what they were) and Colombian coffee. Not much else reaches the other side of the pond in Europe...<br />
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The trip has definitely been a culinary delight, and below are some examples of things we´ve eaten<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAas6WGaji8yTnSXLxluqUn9RrjXN29DXGaBJ5ElTSY9X71ge5ZuykvEtWfTjiqzmiRAM7nYozY_37d4JpRlByN3oZhzLuSzmztOsUuT8vQYx_Px9CZPz_iWABiwuSPwfIoJkL-4BmkbXQ/s1600/IMG_0186.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAas6WGaji8yTnSXLxluqUn9RrjXN29DXGaBJ5ElTSY9X71ge5ZuykvEtWfTjiqzmiRAM7nYozY_37d4JpRlByN3oZhzLuSzmztOsUuT8vQYx_Px9CZPz_iWABiwuSPwfIoJkL-4BmkbXQ/s1600/IMG_0186.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Santiago Lara´s ceviche at the Casa de Ciclistas near Quito. Almost upon arrival in Tumbaco, I begged Santiago to teach me how to make ceviche...King prawns, lime juice, red onion, coriander, and tomato is all you need. Popcorn and fried banana are also added in Ecuador</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9oY5hZA6_mN8LI43I-bd9UnUIsCMv16ZEe8UKAFrAdAlzFzlw0t7Arfg8IRMjfGK48gqEGxfRxPaAi9oduaYj6-GwKNyVnrAPhFfrE2VrquyRVrIJWdwlAt4HuVaHeP92FdTBeC5CVTJ6/s1600/IMG_0241.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9oY5hZA6_mN8LI43I-bd9UnUIsCMv16ZEe8UKAFrAdAlzFzlw0t7Arfg8IRMjfGK48gqEGxfRxPaAi9oduaYj6-GwKNyVnrAPhFfrE2VrquyRVrIJWdwlAt4HuVaHeP92FdTBeC5CVTJ6/s1600/IMG_0241.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Granadilla - a tart and sweet fruit</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWvHvTJPB86dvViBadTDm9HVZ6hknqvdNn7cEluN2hvvIoCz_FWxnMa3umf9VNJ9ZzI_WiJIc6SMkex085C39QKQsRix6MliKTVD_6J5uyTVlAp8T4v0GDy8dHiox70vqeZorTfQBW637v/s1600/IMG_0282.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWvHvTJPB86dvViBadTDm9HVZ6hknqvdNn7cEluN2hvvIoCz_FWxnMa3umf9VNJ9ZzI_WiJIc6SMkex085C39QKQsRix6MliKTVD_6J5uyTVlAp8T4v0GDy8dHiox70vqeZorTfQBW637v/s1600/IMG_0282.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In Cayambe we tried this traditional biscuit - flour and lard I believe were the main ingredients</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnlO3S80NwLmR-RamYvWrRVL-ybyZikYk1MLm6jciGhWK2PFav06SC0H8Hs4QRNjabedYlOPnzjO9nSfFENzOwYfLnaZ29qgc5qHeKeny0F84L3nA25ZR2bZv_dpO5YN6pVS1CzWD3gIJD/s1600/IMG_9456.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnlO3S80NwLmR-RamYvWrRVL-ybyZikYk1MLm6jciGhWK2PFav06SC0H8Hs4QRNjabedYlOPnzjO9nSfFENzOwYfLnaZ29qgc5qHeKeny0F84L3nA25ZR2bZv_dpO5YN6pVS1CzWD3gIJD/s1600/IMG_9456.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Most of you will know we are suckers for all types of food markets. Luckily they do abound in South America, and are always fascinating in Ecuador - here the one in Loja, with all sorts of grain, species and other basic stuff sold <i>al peso</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGkbmlb_p7ErzAY26o9mpyFTgRFINa27STBXjXB_gi8-G19A5HROR7-VF4QUWKcKarZcNeKyJW7rTnnAaJBmQkaAkBofigWrC0dgj5JLBMPBsvlTGsKHumT0Q8qqYMSBcEbqhxQcMrZ8tm/s1600/IMG_9466.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGkbmlb_p7ErzAY26o9mpyFTgRFINa27STBXjXB_gi8-G19A5HROR7-VF4QUWKcKarZcNeKyJW7rTnnAaJBmQkaAkBofigWrC0dgj5JLBMPBsvlTGsKHumT0Q8qqYMSBcEbqhxQcMrZ8tm/s1600/IMG_9466.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After learning from Santiago, I gave this ceviche a go...and wasn´t too bad!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTxyHNjntpXBWZzjRC7TMhyBU05LYDXFsSz65ee76Co_nNaePjbdSRxKdUfPyFuASWOo_zsVhuZyAdx3jA7ot3K_EpPsT1f4Payc8mhqBZZkzAq7BNHu1U_ASCzkWLEJlbHTCJ_DC_Newk/s1600/IMG_9470.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTxyHNjntpXBWZzjRC7TMhyBU05LYDXFsSz65ee76Co_nNaePjbdSRxKdUfPyFuASWOo_zsVhuZyAdx3jA7ot3K_EpPsT1f4Payc8mhqBZZkzAq7BNHu1U_ASCzkWLEJlbHTCJ_DC_Newk/s1600/IMG_9470.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After a while in Ecuador (and Colombia) we made a fusion breakfast: arepas, granola, fresh fruits, and poached egg (UK)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9FohZ2gc8XO-KmuZHjHFi7THrRkMHBwaumZP2nlHkyRO0-_o44FieClRQym5Nk5SCbM6jXk4Q-d39AKwpFe1TCx8L8zS_tWm9fM4bcyIdVtU1LVJ9a2nVIMmQV1O5N-G3HANSe71fAcIZ/s1600/IMG_9583.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9FohZ2gc8XO-KmuZHjHFi7THrRkMHBwaumZP2nlHkyRO0-_o44FieClRQym5Nk5SCbM6jXk4Q-d39AKwpFe1TCx8L8zS_tWm9fM4bcyIdVtU1LVJ9a2nVIMmQV1O5N-G3HANSe71fAcIZ/s1600/IMG_9583.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Breakfast in Loja, Ecuador. We had deep fried empanadas and morocho (a milky sweet drink, with clove and rice, served warm)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitUN9WR3nl4v4bp-gzRYYtQD0AJI3FIjkyJ9qmXzoS6gYG_8xlMzysB9fxRnthtQuZSxYoKcgYIAJD_0cvZmKmvenBlh5mLY5hjb4H_aJ6_6Wf8mmN0j3-bzWI2pfLk8xsta5K2ysONEAV/s1600/IMG_9852.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitUN9WR3nl4v4bp-gzRYYtQD0AJI3FIjkyJ9qmXzoS6gYG_8xlMzysB9fxRnthtQuZSxYoKcgYIAJD_0cvZmKmvenBlh5mLY5hjb4H_aJ6_6Wf8mmN0j3-bzWI2pfLk8xsta5K2ysONEAV/s1600/IMG_9852.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In riverside areas, like this one in Zumba, Ecuador, river fish are abundant. Here a very delicious fish soup (yet not particularly great looking!)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMG0y-lDjgUQzMyqC2AB-8QHtSrinD3GzGiKHRFyJWi-FKeOIYIpUnSryxHxEsAnP8S_L3XvjuGfqjsJuXBvTu41fDR9MTREOxWevCSHgH90lIEfTE2SdrSHB-tKCJkt4HdqFo3olJVLgE/s1600/P1238409.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMG0y-lDjgUQzMyqC2AB-8QHtSrinD3GzGiKHRFyJWi-FKeOIYIpUnSryxHxEsAnP8S_L3XvjuGfqjsJuXBvTu41fDR9MTREOxWevCSHgH90lIEfTE2SdrSHB-tKCJkt4HdqFo3olJVLgE/s1600/P1238409.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In South América they have and love their sweet drinks. This particular one was incredibly gross, tasted of cough medicine and contained enough sugar to saturate the solution!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinnKdB-Z-h9Ags_j80LYB039QHiK7HqASEs4QhTNeNfr6M-296goEZa-Y-j_qvGfpMBlDosbDkJ8-bsIv5nNOwgqFS8XhyphenhyphenJXbnEaZPKn1hjVfuzGfW3O8iQitWxUqAGBctBROs4jlaXN0v/s1600/IMG_0539.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinnKdB-Z-h9Ags_j80LYB039QHiK7HqASEs4QhTNeNfr6M-296goEZa-Y-j_qvGfpMBlDosbDkJ8-bsIv5nNOwgqFS8XhyphenhyphenJXbnEaZPKn1hjVfuzGfW3O8iQitWxUqAGBctBROs4jlaXN0v/s1600/IMG_0539.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Depending of the areas (mostly the altitude) you travel through, different fruits are sold on the road side, directly from the fincas they grow in. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidlCHM9fdx3yGd8QlJxqkL9jmmLBYhNBX0LeSXDhqxJEY0JdYZKV-pdmbXAUYgDGas_I13ioba5zLsOlEkL96oTeiZQC_QxjtBd2Q5D9ik_9mY1jtf9nU4BsOsFBOgyf-G-CbbCXK2LP2H/s1600/IMG_0563.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidlCHM9fdx3yGd8QlJxqkL9jmmLBYhNBX0LeSXDhqxJEY0JdYZKV-pdmbXAUYgDGas_I13ioba5zLsOlEkL96oTeiZQC_QxjtBd2Q5D9ik_9mY1jtf9nU4BsOsFBOgyf-G-CbbCXK2LP2H/s1600/IMG_0563.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A very traditional Colombian breakfast: huevos perico (scrambled eggs with onion and tomato, rice, arepa and tamal - an steamed corn dumpling with different fillings)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMmfV6gtC-0c-TIr2xwSeOfUGne2de0-5mv2EBfvtvL1yENeds-iL2cf3hUvh3D0GUoBpUsAjgzxUjhM5Wb_KQZ0SFrgsbRvw3dTz9Xb85CHGOe-5zw5FLkjsVb_mEGfTMFCQZxaR9cW4_/s1600/IMG_0576.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMmfV6gtC-0c-TIr2xwSeOfUGne2de0-5mv2EBfvtvL1yENeds-iL2cf3hUvh3D0GUoBpUsAjgzxUjhM5Wb_KQZ0SFrgsbRvw3dTz9Xb85CHGOe-5zw5FLkjsVb_mEGfTMFCQZxaR9cW4_/s1600/IMG_0576.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the town of Andalucía, Colombia, we found fresch cheese and sweet balls made of pear and sugar. Delicious when eaten together.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLeWQnazmPsWvfg0zkxCii_AAqcQlFSdwzLpA9jOiQu3xMwS5IFhLBmH9dkICvuyN1fJuKnWaD31BuzZ6oIWkVKSxuRAHXJunM0PTosmeuwHRuI83zkVfs1rnsZEl02ri6fCl5moX7r-0a/s1600/IMG_0580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLeWQnazmPsWvfg0zkxCii_AAqcQlFSdwzLpA9jOiQu3xMwS5IFhLBmH9dkICvuyN1fJuKnWaD31BuzZ6oIWkVKSxuRAHXJunM0PTosmeuwHRuI83zkVfs1rnsZEl02ri6fCl5moX7r-0a/s1600/IMG_0580.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At low altitudes, pineapples abount in Colombia</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl1in74OvPLPo_4SadoILbTxz5k1ojBqTO2ZBtZYJczXDMt3yN1CZn7i87bTHFp0t-GA6yshTEE5ZnVB-MqUtZeuWj-ZR3fQiWnhj1YHzO_4WV7svyVplmEtUYs7OhI2iyXP6A4on2GihH/s1600/IMG_0630.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl1in74OvPLPo_4SadoILbTxz5k1ojBqTO2ZBtZYJczXDMt3yN1CZn7i87bTHFp0t-GA6yshTEE5ZnVB-MqUtZeuWj-ZR3fQiWnhj1YHzO_4WV7svyVplmEtUYs7OhI2iyXP6A4on2GihH/s1600/IMG_0630.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As does sugar cane</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNVPSjk34wd3cIpjsL-UCd2AK9SogI7MH4IYJSLBpCmMYGWqPZQUPh-IDxXU1YhZZU6g0j1UZSqaRQWInDhqc0pZyALNEq-FMoKQK2_ktwtI6HTmeo4Cz-wvqplr46VWmCFxW2B8qTwaMX/s1600/IMG_0633.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNVPSjk34wd3cIpjsL-UCd2AK9SogI7MH4IYJSLBpCmMYGWqPZQUPh-IDxXU1YhZZU6g0j1UZSqaRQWInDhqc0pZyALNEq-FMoKQK2_ktwtI6HTmeo4Cz-wvqplr46VWmCFxW2B8qTwaMX/s1600/IMG_0633.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Even the larger supermarkets will have a good selection: lulo (frutilla en Ecuador) on the left, guayaba (famous for the bocadillo de guayaba - the fuel of Colombian cyclists) and other, more usual fruits behind</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmzt-xAEWL1gRC8Z3rKvqu1zmgODIRH-CYs9wOMTKuMK_6yZh3Qa5p8DuNBB3X84BqnU8rGkqff_59UDKSlMhBQsFoJetVPCDcoje5p4ho_k4Qjo16EH-5PG5-GNaJIYMQvR6cUNZl_jSP/s1600/IMG_0662.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmzt-xAEWL1gRC8Z3rKvqu1zmgODIRH-CYs9wOMTKuMK_6yZh3Qa5p8DuNBB3X84BqnU8rGkqff_59UDKSlMhBQsFoJetVPCDcoje5p4ho_k4Qjo16EH-5PG5-GNaJIYMQvR6cUNZl_jSP/s1600/IMG_0662.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What we called merienda in Spain...in Colombia usually contains a deep fried empanada with a tasty fruity juice</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbjh01L9goQupjD6DwE_YPHH8CFVTMpvBLyC1wBPq-kWxFaSXQ6DrSOhQFE8mffv9lHQaq6eY957kJmF7gOLoSYgkcbyORM5DXZRtgUZYGqvia32nIs6NoiSpLuGpDmzVQ-Z9FwMZ7_6Rh/s1600/IMG_0664.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbjh01L9goQupjD6DwE_YPHH8CFVTMpvBLyC1wBPq-kWxFaSXQ6DrSOhQFE8mffv9lHQaq6eY957kJmF7gOLoSYgkcbyORM5DXZRtgUZYGqvia32nIs6NoiSpLuGpDmzVQ-Z9FwMZ7_6Rh/s1600/IMG_0664.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The infamous arepas come in hundreds of different colors, flavours and fillings and are found all over Colombia</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9kGcar0r53FZYzUOOHSa3wucYrpAeyLRjh_I9YjllxEhLrYUWbBv0fDIBP1u9Nj61Q4Xc2jk-s1FePJM4_JbRcPfQlwMDzDxynC6IU5erbcAW-PFbaSp2A8Erj2J-HtOLeK-Ou-FLcW4S/s1600/IMG_0683.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9kGcar0r53FZYzUOOHSa3wucYrpAeyLRjh_I9YjllxEhLrYUWbBv0fDIBP1u9Nj61Q4Xc2jk-s1FePJM4_JbRcPfQlwMDzDxynC6IU5erbcAW-PFbaSp2A8Erj2J-HtOLeK-Ou-FLcW4S/s1600/IMG_0683.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dulce de leche is such an stapled South American food. But in the town of Andalucía, they added fresh cheese to it! Not great looking but incredibly tasty!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZoCHuwY_nJJp2G6a0LVnd3K3NNr-44Td2WdwCm9RAsLlsPjmmejDnU3xNtPz6Ah7Vn7_4Czlm6CoyPigNe-3hrUAzjtZGo_whLY94fBeVxqrWPgE8fnfowQGlnnv6YmhliMCmXWp7QNCx/s1600/IMG_0713.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZoCHuwY_nJJp2G6a0LVnd3K3NNr-44Td2WdwCm9RAsLlsPjmmejDnU3xNtPz6Ah7Vn7_4Czlm6CoyPigNe-3hrUAzjtZGo_whLY94fBeVxqrWPgE8fnfowQGlnnv6YmhliMCmXWp7QNCx/s1600/IMG_0713.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coffee beans come without explanation in Colombia</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUBRVxceXa8o6NezeM4vxN1eEQJtf06zSE8_ufTDUslHJOVKW85_dGV2nUqFs3_i4hkl7W3jyqF9d_DoeqJ2yP1wnaj2PGWqQVdf555CmHzAyv-fHo-lLkOIggt1_xVDaoix9SSG3INCgk/s1600/IMG_0788.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUBRVxceXa8o6NezeM4vxN1eEQJtf06zSE8_ufTDUslHJOVKW85_dGV2nUqFs3_i4hkl7W3jyqF9d_DoeqJ2yP1wnaj2PGWqQVdf555CmHzAyv-fHo-lLkOIggt1_xVDaoix9SSG3INCgk/s1600/IMG_0788.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In Spain we eat a <i>pincho de tortilla</i> when out on a ride. In Colombia hot agua panela is served with fresh cheese (which is dipped in and melted in the hot drink) with a freshly baked arepa</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO4spHHFhhPQl0Uen0FpikKDDLJApIrfBDcg1ahaDBaNFqVggjf2efXHkFDFPDkWmhEwvqoAAKRk6r0zf5Oc3B7k9xQbOmO-JRSk9GVn0R6XAvILLI6XkcsI5R28PQ839ba1kkY8nWFbiR/s1600/IMG_0872.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO4spHHFhhPQl0Uen0FpikKDDLJApIrfBDcg1ahaDBaNFqVggjf2efXHkFDFPDkWmhEwvqoAAKRk6r0zf5Oc3B7k9xQbOmO-JRSk9GVn0R6XAvILLI6XkcsI5R28PQ839ba1kkY8nWFbiR/s1600/IMG_0872.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Street vendors have all sort of yummy fried or grilled foods in Colombia: empanadas, potato balls, plantain, arepas...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitMKxNZIBzKIR-E0QM3M4mx9zKVGxSIaZ6cLHMCBdjRpnVcodmb1gXPfg9JsDGZXjqYbhk-2cuTocjymOLuQVI7Xwg7-nAW9_zELBJiltwo56Sf0GW4t2R18lVie7Bo34Xb7k1pJYL7bGs/s1600/IMG_1251.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitMKxNZIBzKIR-E0QM3M4mx9zKVGxSIaZ6cLHMCBdjRpnVcodmb1gXPfg9JsDGZXjqYbhk-2cuTocjymOLuQVI7Xwg7-nAW9_zELBJiltwo56Sf0GW4t2R18lVie7Bo34Xb7k1pJYL7bGs/s1600/IMG_1251.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Strawberries grow in cold areas of Colombia and Ecuador. Here somewhere near Bogotá, at 3000 m</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX5CQX_beydFTxSR5ZWq-UzME8kLFEEx_LRx579N0dBTNUPuMmpxpt26Igk9E8Fd__FvOrUmSl-rD9iHJl2zfGoTbWE-VytUJ5FGYM9QZzJru55j2fsYmQ58VqFmP4_U1NCB3y3Pjtkspy/s1600/IMG_1365.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX5CQX_beydFTxSR5ZWq-UzME8kLFEEx_LRx579N0dBTNUPuMmpxpt26Igk9E8Fd__FvOrUmSl-rD9iHJl2zfGoTbWE-VytUJ5FGYM9QZzJru55j2fsYmQ58VqFmP4_U1NCB3y3Pjtkspy/s1600/IMG_1365.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fruit salads are another staple of Colombian foods, and it comes with a liquidy cheese sauce and all sorts of fresh fruits</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkFxH6NJi2_5FpIyLdFKwE6uW_G_RUWUB77zW66Q91Ucueb6Ulsvwl0i2IF45L70Sb7uk4zAQrhTmrIE-q_rVi36oxZ3yd8-7DkIV_4Zhi2in_U6j3-dmdQ02FKkbKIcKLbpAxZ1uoMhyphenhyphen3/s1600/IMG_1398.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkFxH6NJi2_5FpIyLdFKwE6uW_G_RUWUB77zW66Q91Ucueb6Ulsvwl0i2IF45L70Sb7uk4zAQrhTmrIE-q_rVi36oxZ3yd8-7DkIV_4Zhi2in_U6j3-dmdQ02FKkbKIcKLbpAxZ1uoMhyphenhyphen3/s1600/IMG_1398.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Those little green balls are amongst the weirdest fruits we´ve ever tried: the mamoncillo has a hard shell that you crack open to then suck a sugary outer gelatine and spit out the seed.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDJn1Ef225NpPn1XGpT9nnJ0rY9_rLox6FduuTRoOVokeija0e0hu5pQMNWH11uWwzd4WIhZLqS05lnDGCOefFyr2d0Q5qy9-vjq0de6kQZYj-uEtp2FcMSAzRAnhamK1AcAn9y6LzH6jn/s1600/IMG_1400.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDJn1Ef225NpPn1XGpT9nnJ0rY9_rLox6FduuTRoOVokeija0e0hu5pQMNWH11uWwzd4WIhZLqS05lnDGCOefFyr2d0Q5qy9-vjq0de6kQZYj-uEtp2FcMSAzRAnhamK1AcAn9y6LzH6jn/s1600/IMG_1400.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lucy loved those dough balls. Buñuelos come in all sizes and prices.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrclcNB16nCvxlFGzCkgwh_iLtIZxMm0Tw98CnD1KQrlp9hIgsRPn2n-SKATRjpNlczVyRC2JFfPjXYdx-g-hs3-77dLA1iyaLNyHhDh7cnFua-2ipp27S5IKDbrZUUy2vZ8VSP8HDTUln/s1600/IMG_1478.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrclcNB16nCvxlFGzCkgwh_iLtIZxMm0Tw98CnD1KQrlp9hIgsRPn2n-SKATRjpNlczVyRC2JFfPjXYdx-g-hs3-77dLA1iyaLNyHhDh7cnFua-2ipp27S5IKDbrZUUy2vZ8VSP8HDTUln/s1600/IMG_1478.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We did not know it at the time, but Tinjacá, near Villa de Leyva, is famous Colombia-wide for its arepas: huge sizes, for 1000 pesos, and a choice of wheat or corn, filled with melted cheese...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpgMi7S_NsjgnzEZ2ICK85mVNRNToO9wMxQwYKZzgYRHr_iVG2frNbcuqkMF-bd3GPTGqyflfiKSBE7gepI_S6gQiClXU3RIgXVZ9uJRSAe_Pf9rVLvr0VJHj9eQHIsX4-pzcA0hZ_mCCs/s1600/IMG_1510.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpgMi7S_NsjgnzEZ2ICK85mVNRNToO9wMxQwYKZzgYRHr_iVG2frNbcuqkMF-bd3GPTGqyflfiKSBE7gepI_S6gQiClXU3RIgXVZ9uJRSAe_Pf9rVLvr0VJHj9eQHIsX4-pzcA0hZ_mCCs/s1600/IMG_1510.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Avocados, mangos, and papaya for starter in your regular almuerzo in Villa de Leyva....</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_egDx_T8gRNc34uOvw_TDvxNn_6qCfbPSEWsshHQbcBgAvWEqkFlrCmgMSLwICH9Zht2c8chEAt4kFo7N8DCogl8f-E5awHSOm1itszGjaHPM4fNJ9SoqJV5KQ1PxLMwxm3PaQVD7SJPm/s1600/IMG_1747.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_egDx_T8gRNc34uOvw_TDvxNn_6qCfbPSEWsshHQbcBgAvWEqkFlrCmgMSLwICH9Zht2c8chEAt4kFo7N8DCogl8f-E5awHSOm1itszGjaHPM4fNJ9SoqJV5KQ1PxLMwxm3PaQVD7SJPm/s1600/IMG_1747.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moving onto cheeses...Colombia and Ecuador lack what we know as matured cheeses in the US and Europe. But in Bogotá, we learnt that queso Paipa, produced in Paipa (Boyacá) was as good as close as you can get to a matured cheese. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjaIJSsfWf_Ldo_NpxKbYbXT5ODs30MDT5TNh9QGlFhDaDa7AuAqDn2quWRgGHgxzCjJsEhnuU8ft4bODmQnWPms8qqAfGKfa7fhzgFRickJYn1xlXGDDFO9PR0vMY5_w2HcD9OmBy9FwH/s1600/IMG_1786.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjaIJSsfWf_Ldo_NpxKbYbXT5ODs30MDT5TNh9QGlFhDaDa7AuAqDn2quWRgGHgxzCjJsEhnuU8ft4bODmQnWPms8qqAfGKfa7fhzgFRickJYn1xlXGDDFO9PR0vMY5_w2HcD9OmBy9FwH/s1600/IMG_1786.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A whole trout, very popular in riverside areas of Colombia, cooked in our very own stove</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkbGSh7Df-v7UVKCF2XyTAr_kZyLpBBIipXuOJQCPLxr4pM4J2ocBAKbGcoKejJcTMH5oxzQUXm-Fl6hYKJ92CyjxCPvrT-rxAS48XxTTdpDK0qIm2V9aJ9lOKERIUoxkQxZuYk9FdYpiG/s1600/IMG_1878.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkbGSh7Df-v7UVKCF2XyTAr_kZyLpBBIipXuOJQCPLxr4pM4J2ocBAKbGcoKejJcTMH5oxzQUXm-Fl6hYKJ92CyjxCPvrT-rxAS48XxTTdpDK0qIm2V9aJ9lOKERIUoxkQxZuYk9FdYpiG/s1600/IMG_1878.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What can we say about chicken...yet sometimes, if cooked properly, can be extremely nice!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNtlzVFchuKNe0r9PTMra3Jc0wccXdLW64KDNv1pXq3N3DhmJ_pvlvxmAb6CjKJ1ytIG2NLVbIMSL_7VUwaKYrkgo5YGnjC2ILexQSYrWerEu2B9jaaHSvqPChjeM69H9LNC7tkJcZY_Jy/s1600/IMG_1890.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNtlzVFchuKNe0r9PTMra3Jc0wccXdLW64KDNv1pXq3N3DhmJ_pvlvxmAb6CjKJ1ytIG2NLVbIMSL_7VUwaKYrkgo5YGnjC2ILexQSYrWerEu2B9jaaHSvqPChjeM69H9LNC7tkJcZY_Jy/s1600/IMG_1890.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But when going into the very high mountains of Colombia, for a few days all we could take with us was this...Thankfully we took some nice Colombian coffee - the black bag in the middle!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha70gJhuiadLgb40twWcjEpu9AGbWbqgl7TcXQJgF7zsYSMhZxYl5WOtSSsstHakgo1ggEouYtA6wZ8dF5n-oLMPTRX4CF9vSKF5qmve2pnZznBVxKc3riAxNcS7Cm2sfk4RsDBIi2-Tho/s1600/IMG_2525.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha70gJhuiadLgb40twWcjEpu9AGbWbqgl7TcXQJgF7zsYSMhZxYl5WOtSSsstHakgo1ggEouYtA6wZ8dF5n-oLMPTRX4CF9vSKF5qmve2pnZznBVxKc3riAxNcS7Cm2sfk4RsDBIi2-Tho/s1600/IMG_2525.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bucaramanga provided a great social and culinary experience. Diego and Carmen of <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/ciclaramanga/">Ciclaramanga </a>treated us to an amazing vegetarian almuerzo </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx3XGhfqofVMadrBfXEdvRmbHao0u1dpBT2gswBDuXuVCNQDNCegZry4FmA44zVK6otxTSVydvJw1JW1emd6HqN7GcyPbBgVU3tImlvT7m3FsauG0-JCCKQUiSK7o-H2CEGaT5burjhImX/s1600/IMG_2526.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx3XGhfqofVMadrBfXEdvRmbHao0u1dpBT2gswBDuXuVCNQDNCegZry4FmA44zVK6otxTSVydvJw1JW1emd6HqN7GcyPbBgVU3tImlvT7m3FsauG0-JCCKQUiSK7o-H2CEGaT5burjhImX/s1600/IMG_2526.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colombian bread isn´t matched to our taste. It usually comes overloaded with butter and sugar. But Diego of <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/ciclaramanga/">Ciclaramanga</a> is baking his very own breads, well worth a try!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC2cr8Cc6KKzaM9Iht3qJdU7nNlnc__C6_BpUsioXIcbbTZbk_Kom_sL2FY264c6sgJ5byv4uB_kYJ8FgUGlJsYTIe3ZoidKX908-UY5E6-JP-F65EVRRuWLd5rrgQdUm3bYCP5_7JTZHz/s1600/IMG_7895.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC2cr8Cc6KKzaM9Iht3qJdU7nNlnc__C6_BpUsioXIcbbTZbk_Kom_sL2FY264c6sgJ5byv4uB_kYJ8FgUGlJsYTIe3ZoidKX908-UY5E6-JP-F65EVRRuWLd5rrgQdUm3bYCP5_7JTZHz/s1600/IMG_7895.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another Colombian almuerzo, served with our favourite non-alcoholic soda of the trip: Pony malta beats all the other sodas, especially when served ice-cold!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_c0VkgIxZPeoLuDjgL40iCWOiUg0sNDSKmuG2wUGr5RQZ2D6471v8djG5fD7pljl7Aktgzk3JxZTakRD2n6qq88eDyr2ANC00Sm-z3DQxAPFPthLMBnf46AiNqeUl11eC1cralgHqADxk/s1600/IMG_7903.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_c0VkgIxZPeoLuDjgL40iCWOiUg0sNDSKmuG2wUGr5RQZ2D6471v8djG5fD7pljl7Aktgzk3JxZTakRD2n6qq88eDyr2ANC00Sm-z3DQxAPFPthLMBnf46AiNqeUl11eC1cralgHqADxk/s1600/IMG_7903.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And the juices...Colombia has a big reputation for its juices <i>en agua </i>or <i>en leche</i>. And sometimes you get a whole 1.5 l jar to yourself!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCXiQyHE3YPapkmkisQwgOKqZAuzY9cFvP2glb6vc0awwQ46AfMqmqRD0HyN7RmVVOOWjxZqyH9V9Ufs5pGVdrupTHNUJ1gimX3GIXD40NQmXFayBcSGVf8_n_6S9eeBxHDxMKbIL-joXm/s1600/IMG_8350.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCXiQyHE3YPapkmkisQwgOKqZAuzY9cFvP2glb6vc0awwQ46AfMqmqRD0HyN7RmVVOOWjxZqyH9V9Ufs5pGVdrupTHNUJ1gimX3GIXD40NQmXFayBcSGVf8_n_6S9eeBxHDxMKbIL-joXm/s1600/IMG_8350.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Near the Mocoa area they grow amazing raspberries</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5pFzH9jieM9H3mr8GaMx75jGRCOu9teFLtsXX5YWgSI_bBFmaidlkVW3ZXu02tw1Xe_J43UnjMOD6kZvY9ReATWa9Eht9PI7nCl8rjyVU-TPclwlQkZk9GgS7CKgKsEFkvu3cCN7BU7rF/s1600/IMG_8415.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5pFzH9jieM9H3mr8GaMx75jGRCOu9teFLtsXX5YWgSI_bBFmaidlkVW3ZXu02tw1Xe_J43UnjMOD6kZvY9ReATWa9Eht9PI7nCl8rjyVU-TPclwlQkZk9GgS7CKgKsEFkvu3cCN7BU7rF/s1600/IMG_8415.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the Colombian Oriente, Alberto tried a tasty fish soup that contain something resembling a piranha</td></tr>
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Albertohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15789158563391048740noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-52866402215705481042015-05-05T18:17:00.000+01:002015-05-05T18:17:09.606+01:00Punta Arenas to Ushuaia: Riding to the end of the road<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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We had a restful couple of days in Punta Arenas with our very kind couchsurfing hosts Jaime and Claudio, but with the Patagonian winter drawing ever closer we knew we couldn´t wait for too long. Punta Arenas marked the end of our journey on mainland South America, Finally we would be riding in Tierra del Fuego, a place which evoked in us ideas of remoteness, and discovery. We had been told that the scenery was not exactly stunning, but actually were pleasantly surprised by its open beauty. It reminded us of that favorite cycling destination of ours in the Northern Hemisphere, Scotland. </div>
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Crossing Tierra del Fuego from Porvenir was a rewarding and beautiful experience, which we appreciated more fully once we crossed into Argentina and found the busy route 3 which many cyclists take all the way from Rio Gallegos, if they don´t fancy the ripio of the Chilean side. We were so grateful for those final days in the ´wilderness´ before hitting ´civilization´again. On the other hand, civilization has its perks, as we learned during our rest in the famous Panaderia La Union in Tolhuin. </div>
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Our arrival into Ushuaia was different to how we had pictured it. Poor weather forecasts prompted us to ride the final stretch from Tolhuin in one day instead of two, meaning that we had to watch the clock a little bit on our final day, and take our arrival pictures quickly while there was still some light remaining. Nevertheless, it was a day to be savored and one that we´ll remember for a while. It´s true that this trip has always been about the journey rather than the destination, but it´s also true that we´ve spent the last 16 months answering "Ushuaia" when people ask where we are headed. Regardless of our plans moving on from here (which will be revealed in a future blog post of course), arriving into Ushuaia represents the end of a chapter. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8k5eyNKmL606dPgeM25xbd4EB-Or36UDjVLNfqyUxaV_RWmptIkmsYlWcf1K5niSG9XR-A8QPb4Fd_Dudzf3PWGnROE0B68ps3ZErG7JjCz3ktmhe5zsB5OPR0pHiWyS1e5CYrLi1nIfT/s1600/P1050741.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8k5eyNKmL606dPgeM25xbd4EB-Or36UDjVLNfqyUxaV_RWmptIkmsYlWcf1K5niSG9XR-A8QPb4Fd_Dudzf3PWGnROE0B68ps3ZErG7JjCz3ktmhe5zsB5OPR0pHiWyS1e5CYrLi1nIfT/s1600/P1050741.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We catch the early morning ferry from Punta Arenas to Porvenir, on Tierra del Fuego, joined by Christophe who we had been riding with since El Chalten. Christohpe is a firefighter in France, and thanks to a complicated web of connections we were able to take the boat for free!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving Porvenir we are delighted to discover that, unlike many of the ´coastal´roads in Chile, this one actually does follow the coast, giving us stunning views in the chilly sunshine (this one taken looking back on the hill we have climbed).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF9NynkCXabflCU05bK2c1vHrdEzXsRxApodIWK8mUcqImSEhad6XHnFxYbrScxD8EmzOvahyphenhyphenc5dOSF-7njCReLR6jkDrh83a5vqZPgpr-sqr-xsOOWWOha7HCZyqNycHbttndyTrJrKQj/s1600/IMG_3241.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF9NynkCXabflCU05bK2c1vHrdEzXsRxApodIWK8mUcqImSEhad6XHnFxYbrScxD8EmzOvahyphenhyphenc5dOSF-7njCReLR6jkDrh83a5vqZPgpr-sqr-xsOOWWOha7HCZyqNycHbttndyTrJrKQj/s1600/IMG_3241.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We had heard that drinkable water was hard to come by on this section of the ride, but soon learned that the presence of a dwelling meant there was a source of fresh water nearby.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8AoqFWGisNM2UpsIWWOJbzu-QJmyNj7k3_qQQEfjDDReouehfOCT7VwlPK7T8qrMBJAmsC2PH_EIGp0pfeaqrVsTv1uLC_hRFO_GBqZ7I_uX4423xNN7ZT6u5ClV_22G82wmQ0qGAqd1D/s1600/IMG_3246.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8AoqFWGisNM2UpsIWWOJbzu-QJmyNj7k3_qQQEfjDDReouehfOCT7VwlPK7T8qrMBJAmsC2PH_EIGp0pfeaqrVsTv1uLC_hRFO_GBqZ7I_uX4423xNN7ZT6u5ClV_22G82wmQ0qGAqd1D/s1600/IMG_3246.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We stop to ask for water at an Estancia, and are told we can camp on the dueño´s property by the sea. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPEkS4OwbHUYsE6sjNJhWwiBu_l9AuNtB-hR-1Uin-7KUQNw5-Xgex07Vc1DbDdKv5rFvZx-zmjfNUn6w82sGAh_OUH_mK6YYL-czpCM7LZCWkAyFuOfarugPr2bzZ5MHDirNIVF8fV92O/s1600/P1050749.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPEkS4OwbHUYsE6sjNJhWwiBu_l9AuNtB-hR-1Uin-7KUQNw5-Xgex07Vc1DbDdKv5rFvZx-zmjfNUn6w82sGAh_OUH_mK6YYL-czpCM7LZCWkAyFuOfarugPr2bzZ5MHDirNIVF8fV92O/s1600/P1050749.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After a beautiful, if chilly, night by the ocean we pack up camp in the sunshine again.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheA6389BAWpFkgcgBPFElOQ23XCPIvQhs7feZ8qAOykWOetmsIq7ehvZ-3UdT8cUj3SjKXfebWRCn5p9Q094zSJnvOl5yJSeV1RzlS0qAZ4PBOamvxVDevRtQqPNgMyLQYCxSdwNJza5pp/s1600/P1050752.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheA6389BAWpFkgcgBPFElOQ23XCPIvQhs7feZ8qAOykWOetmsIq7ehvZ-3UdT8cUj3SjKXfebWRCn5p9Q094zSJnvOl5yJSeV1RzlS0qAZ4PBOamvxVDevRtQqPNgMyLQYCxSdwNJza5pp/s1600/P1050752.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Passing a few more fishermen´s homes as we go.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj60eaMuwRDI4X8LikEf8oOtKo3lzXGRsB56q2UFx3Fl3xTRHe5ljU4BlrZe8xFAIU-yyz19z_uA8OPSSZg2kRAgwpEaJxLHnF1KsziG7-1ONYBlJJH5SPIIH6Vkedvl_LkRVFvilO9kHv_/s1600/P1050758.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj60eaMuwRDI4X8LikEf8oOtKo3lzXGRsB56q2UFx3Fl3xTRHe5ljU4BlrZe8xFAIU-yyz19z_uA8OPSSZg2kRAgwpEaJxLHnF1KsziG7-1ONYBlJJH5SPIIH6Vkedvl_LkRVFvilO9kHv_/s1600/P1050758.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We spot something in the water that first we think is a whale, and then think is some penguins on a rock. We head to the shore for a closer look but can see nothing once we arrive. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ZvYZzOmYgMrqF4gI4qYjCs9XToV1OdHhXTakRYYeYEcBAWRbx_KZa1SN9I7pt7QJdtFj86tGGPu2wdbl6cTRJ-tnaqdgv_eIg3ovhSVTWxstxAc9zBKyQbCCtCBzyJGcQV4PdGtARG0g/s1600/P1050762.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ZvYZzOmYgMrqF4gI4qYjCs9XToV1OdHhXTakRYYeYEcBAWRbx_KZa1SN9I7pt7QJdtFj86tGGPu2wdbl6cTRJ-tnaqdgv_eIg3ovhSVTWxstxAc9zBKyQbCCtCBzyJGcQV4PdGtARG0g/s1600/P1050762.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reaching the crossroads for Cameron, we are delighted to find a refugio out of the wind, and decide to end the day early and sleep there. We collect some useful pieces of kit like this drink bottle that Christophe uses to store his condensed milk -- Spanish <i>cafe bombon </i>having become a favourite treat.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt1tR8rMRMclKxkB7HXsIOjWJdcR8FLT9_MkVBpnAbK-NlIZx0Uja7Z82H_NeD2v4qIig97AIhxblniMJn6Nafh7imYA4VuOmfkEtIU3BznzYP3sC10dHg5cgnYOkFGvBWG8hIGIMZ_ELw/s1600/P1050763.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt1tR8rMRMclKxkB7HXsIOjWJdcR8FLT9_MkVBpnAbK-NlIZx0Uja7Z82H_NeD2v4qIig97AIhxblniMJn6Nafh7imYA4VuOmfkEtIU3BznzYP3sC10dHg5cgnYOkFGvBWG8hIGIMZ_ELw/s1600/P1050763.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A sheltered spot to cook means we can be more ambitious with dinner, here making delicious flatbread to go along with our lentils and rice.</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYc2VqNrRwpHrJOEAiKfRzgSEbGWsGnXWIN0DEqwJx_7N8IwhnaRcy-OwK0gE6amjCzV6fatx4mi1p_juEeoPbyxfefyAR9y8Zn8BJfZgrnSnlmr9GE3JmMB2zWTYKnkitSzu30OT6dAyo/s1600/P1050774.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYc2VqNrRwpHrJOEAiKfRzgSEbGWsGnXWIN0DEqwJx_7N8IwhnaRcy-OwK0gE6amjCzV6fatx4mi1p_juEeoPbyxfefyAR9y8Zn8BJfZgrnSnlmr9GE3JmMB2zWTYKnkitSzu30OT6dAyo/s1600/P1050774.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">In the morning, we get some good news. We had left Punta Arenas believing that only the main border crossing on Tierra del Fuego was open, but some municipal workers who stop by the refugio in the morning are able to call and confirm that our preferred crossing, Paso Bellavista, is indeed still open. In great spirits we turn right towards Cameron. This does, however, mean a half day of riding into the wind.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0I-ycSvRz3UIQWJGfbE1H7AcJKIgkGxPebC2Q5bfoqrzJFKjTy78NezKyDhsBK_ME9bbXCgBgeBQF6EEQKQMDnz_I0CeeSF3aqEZwuJNqccc05gOIeE_OaJdMcJRfx6rjPlNSIBF65-bT/s1600/P1050767.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0I-ycSvRz3UIQWJGfbE1H7AcJKIgkGxPebC2Q5bfoqrzJFKjTy78NezKyDhsBK_ME9bbXCgBgeBQF6EEQKQMDnz_I0CeeSF3aqEZwuJNqccc05gOIeE_OaJdMcJRfx6rjPlNSIBF65-bT/s1600/P1050767.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soon we pass the infamous King Penguin colony of tierra del fuego, which up until two years ago was free to visit but now charges a whopping 12,000 pesos ($20 US) for a few minutes´visit. We ask for water at the front desk and can hear the penguins in the distance and even see some black and white blobs in the grass far away. With the help of the camera zoom we can confirm that there are indeed some pretty impressive penguins there!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWVdspy6caSflNaXbmtBMHR7DGtLsZ0sOa0QPF5LTLx_K7bsgog8UquhOmK0CR2QwUUR8qVSl9ggsCdA3aKzuuINEB1L52nYpxUL4mWwQfb2k2ymlAcoyy39UiHcnH3HA0w5m72X4who9B/s1600/P1050776.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWVdspy6caSflNaXbmtBMHR7DGtLsZ0sOa0QPF5LTLx_K7bsgog8UquhOmK0CR2QwUUR8qVSl9ggsCdA3aKzuuINEB1L52nYpxUL4mWwQfb2k2ymlAcoyy39UiHcnH3HA0w5m72X4who9B/s1600/P1050776.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Later that evening we find an unused gaucho´s refuge, perfect for a night protected from the wind and chill.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicNfQj8AfM6UYlLM8ujxD8JIKYQmrgkvbu3P9ZTt0GEekCKxGiMkLww3GE7rEKiIxYEsdYcnmIS84FpP7FYreiw-5nSqlKb9Zj5jt4bKOc3Ghw_7279d9kD09tpu0D2Yq42q8u_m6MttzD/s1600/P1050775.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicNfQj8AfM6UYlLM8ujxD8JIKYQmrgkvbu3P9ZTt0GEekCKxGiMkLww3GE7rEKiIxYEsdYcnmIS84FpP7FYreiw-5nSqlKb9Zj5jt4bKOc3Ghw_7279d9kD09tpu0D2Yq42q8u_m6MttzD/s1600/P1050775.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Deceptively small from the outside, inside there are four beds and a small kitchen!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv9LD_7hpTYvbeFo5ftuPmhmY6m-kS_rEAEmurr7lLDwNXoAwQkUJVdWjoF0hZwvyLLRIO4BiyfvKyo77sKQFSMG4dEHgfKscnFrIAkcHzRuOKbQpuYF-RbCXbmwScE4Bh_snVNltw9KC2/s1600/P1050779.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv9LD_7hpTYvbeFo5ftuPmhmY6m-kS_rEAEmurr7lLDwNXoAwQkUJVdWjoF0hZwvyLLRIO4BiyfvKyo77sKQFSMG4dEHgfKscnFrIAkcHzRuOKbQpuYF-RbCXbmwScE4Bh_snVNltw9KC2/s1600/P1050779.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It´s a chilly start the next morning, and we start to understand why locals will seemingly find a way to make use of any kind of shelter available to them, including a broken down bus.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglbFoRIhnI5RmaD_FEJInApuAHnJjq3jsozqLqQXUkBCnePeM2bsy_xVr1o_XfokQYrSKVfgdy8BVA8EoZ2JtNOJnRWFGhsWgIH6Kxeoqvd8NzTLjOLwf_oNvGgY0k_UoJuC1ufim64NMu/s1600/P1050783.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglbFoRIhnI5RmaD_FEJInApuAHnJjq3jsozqLqQXUkBCnePeM2bsy_xVr1o_XfokQYrSKVfgdy8BVA8EoZ2JtNOJnRWFGhsWgIH6Kxeoqvd8NzTLjOLwf_oNvGgY0k_UoJuC1ufim64NMu/s1600/P1050783.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The final kilometers to the border are beautiful, passing through thick autumnal forest.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoqOXhrYUvHDIyVZy2-qzifS9mQCnWjYOFZQqbqESPh1vi6RclhrQDVx6ScbsPhHXBm1KTOq3TqqHZWXlTIQyXY7niq4nv55nCjQP8YrQqKAgkkzo1hXswh7y1BiQt0KhbDwjDvjtHOUmv/s1600/IMG_3252.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoqOXhrYUvHDIyVZy2-qzifS9mQCnWjYOFZQqbqESPh1vi6RclhrQDVx6ScbsPhHXBm1KTOq3TqqHZWXlTIQyXY7niq4nv55nCjQP8YrQqKAgkkzo1hXswh7y1BiQt0KhbDwjDvjtHOUmv/s1600/IMG_3252.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We arrive at Paso Bellavista in the late afternoon. We had been worrying a little bit about the river crossing we had heard was too high to ride through. Luck is on our side though, and as we are unloading the bikes to prepare for several <i>portage</i> trips, two Argentinian tourists show up in a pickup truck and offer to ferry our stuff across! We´ve never been so grateful for the presense of a car!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih9P-iPsUXPoOY6bwHgxikaNT04HfCzYn3zhN7rTw06WbHz2S799Gkrw957PR3M-szfeiF4YsZvTaRF60one35CAfM8nvQIXKyLbIhzqnT-FrV8bqgPcPq8xiC-K107TkqJ9mMU1zoOPSy/s1600/P1050794.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih9P-iPsUXPoOY6bwHgxikaNT04HfCzYn3zhN7rTw06WbHz2S799Gkrw957PR3M-szfeiF4YsZvTaRF60one35CAfM8nvQIXKyLbIhzqnT-FrV8bqgPcPq8xiC-K107TkqJ9mMU1zoOPSy/s1600/P1050794.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally, we´re in Argentina, having crossed our last border on this journey South.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdUaZJEjF56Msyhh5_jFB8FxtISrQw7GXVGcEUa2ayHbmJ8Ua_03A9aDziysHo_joepN8rd5miNHxn6oMk3H1Wq9_ZeiOyjWF2yZZAKzGrfyxq2Zz3hnkYwoFRyDZmvpqGRu0kL4QHZY3q/s1600/P1050797.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdUaZJEjF56Msyhh5_jFB8FxtISrQw7GXVGcEUa2ayHbmJ8Ua_03A9aDziysHo_joepN8rd5miNHxn6oMk3H1Wq9_ZeiOyjWF2yZZAKzGrfyxq2Zz3hnkYwoFRyDZmvpqGRu0kL4QHZY3q/s1600/P1050797.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We ask at the Argentinian border about where we can stay and are offered a quincho (covered camping area)...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXBXDACR_1rxnsOG720BIIDU7gePyAUfeAV8CBkNR_jRU-d61iz2tXB9V1-1DWosRfe0udyCNKdZx3gj6DVNCS_4p81tvsWiA_0NY-s14j0bKadwwI7hwql6My7JlRuq7zI11hGnWWl_ZM/s1600/IMG_3253.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXBXDACR_1rxnsOG720BIIDU7gePyAUfeAV8CBkNR_jRU-d61iz2tXB9V1-1DWosRfe0udyCNKdZx3gj6DVNCS_4p81tvsWiA_0NY-s14j0bKadwwI7hwql6My7JlRuq7zI11hGnWWl_ZM/s1600/IMG_3253.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">... complete with parrilla!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9pAkGa2aB-w8m2bGqy61g1pK78EXJQOn39eF-tkrxfeWUqkkbPIqIqLYwTyWsb16_nw-uJtNF_GPM26H3AfRU3EiXBgRQfg26An6vCuTyB_mut4ct_FsySMrZZHWT4Q8EKkaDDmBR9i32/s1600/P1050799.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9pAkGa2aB-w8m2bGqy61g1pK78EXJQOn39eF-tkrxfeWUqkkbPIqIqLYwTyWsb16_nw-uJtNF_GPM26H3AfRU3EiXBgRQfg26An6vCuTyB_mut4ct_FsySMrZZHWT4Q8EKkaDDmBR9i32/s1600/P1050799.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Strong tailwinds the next day blow us all the way to the Ruta 3. Without much shelter around we don´t even stop for a proper lunch. The wind is much more pleasant when you´re moving with it!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsXPN_R07dOTXtrjdfKSmJCK9gb4DvJq8mNaqKHSgcWkVG-7cE45ySmAII7xoYX_6_IJWTStRWU8wxrw5oQcojLlUJUXf0D_qoOF3_DeVcY5ehuBwSasq-Y2sh9JJ3lp4y5S93Y1si1ugp/s1600/P1050806.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsXPN_R07dOTXtrjdfKSmJCK9gb4DvJq8mNaqKHSgcWkVG-7cE45ySmAII7xoYX_6_IJWTStRWU8wxrw5oQcojLlUJUXf0D_qoOF3_DeVcY5ehuBwSasq-Y2sh9JJ3lp4y5S93Y1si1ugp/s1600/P1050806.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We reach the main road in late afternoon but can find no where to camp. We are rejected from a police station and an estancia, resulting in pedalling almost until sunset. The road is busy, we are tired, and we just want to find a place to put the tent!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZu6h49ORN60sR2Pu4lW0eFaZ4K5jb3yLRpPu0OE-5CNBcXih7eNLj-kpiseA-8GKbL7p5-bT0_VDtdeK8ka-HRebya3eMtdTZyKU_4wWvBl8tnuruvpTFVnWhhngbi1oyLp17bZ7nJz5x/s1600/P1050807.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZu6h49ORN60sR2Pu4lW0eFaZ4K5jb3yLRpPu0OE-5CNBcXih7eNLj-kpiseA-8GKbL7p5-bT0_VDtdeK8ka-HRebya3eMtdTZyKU_4wWvBl8tnuruvpTFVnWhhngbi1oyLp17bZ7nJz5x/s1600/P1050807.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally, just as the sun is getting ready to set, we arrive to the Atlantic coast and find a perfect beachside campspot. It's visible from the road but the good news is there's not much light left in the day for drivers to see us.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1Xi9UBezus8h9NtvjRclVBTZSIeq5Z2ATRIQRjE3m1ZjDzo-7kYW8INRhFpRKZeuiNpN29WgcSoMUjM3XejFHm_YeeCWj0kThpbVZtf6P2sxtvcr9_2H04lWxTDYIWqQW9LeT3hFK0h5z/s1600/P1050809.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1Xi9UBezus8h9NtvjRclVBTZSIeq5Z2ATRIQRjE3m1ZjDzo-7kYW8INRhFpRKZeuiNpN29WgcSoMUjM3XejFHm_YeeCWj0kThpbVZtf6P2sxtvcr9_2H04lWxTDYIWqQW9LeT3hFK0h5z/s1600/P1050809.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the morning we eagerly ride on to Tolhuin, where we know we will be taking a few days off in the legendary Panaderia La Union, which is known to host passing cyclists for a strategic rest before the push to Ushuaia. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO57r3JyINH3sPiWEeM7dBOsDvE1N-MC3X1HRbNMZbaF1lL0NQvdxA9YEBEeQHaAtzJXGHXxIG0boxCDqsq0HTMgrN5dmw2-jWvrLfYe3sCjEDavpQckjwY0FjUWquHOuDkxBfWdZFay_J/s1600/P1050812.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO57r3JyINH3sPiWEeM7dBOsDvE1N-MC3X1HRbNMZbaF1lL0NQvdxA9YEBEeQHaAtzJXGHXxIG0boxCDqsq0HTMgrN5dmw2-jWvrLfYe3sCjEDavpQckjwY0FjUWquHOuDkxBfWdZFay_J/s1600/P1050812.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It feels great to arrive to a warm place to sleep after so many chilly days and nights. Even in the absence of Emilio, the owner, we are still welcome to stay.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIOwuTS-hgaJrStCZHQlbOKZ5wlddKfRzBuqhdNoUvJwj3h5R9OvoAwLZhnfAd5AblVs18DSq01Vkbrm98kzX-pIOIqIaFKh38aYwXGxRgu8vYcJFUXsIbvFs_3WPasH7h4gRlDvXQFkW9/s1600/P1050817.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIOwuTS-hgaJrStCZHQlbOKZ5wlddKfRzBuqhdNoUvJwj3h5R9OvoAwLZhnfAd5AblVs18DSq01Vkbrm98kzX-pIOIqIaFKh38aYwXGxRgu8vYcJFUXsIbvFs_3WPasH7h4gRlDvXQFkW9/s1600/P1050817.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cyclists are permitted to help out in the bakery, but perhaps it would have been better not to know how much butter goes into those delicious Argentine facturas. Yes, those yellow slabs are butter, on top of the butter that is already in the dough. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje0z-umqu7ShgAMgt_yEpWu6uH99kBpXtl7YWFpPPlKXHGUOwA5TlwEyXyFP-QozeAJ8UKdl9xlwk0cG5KnzJ8rv0wYPxS9sZ9r1r2hy4fOWvbJdy07FX5usJovOZPs6ZY0zEdp4ucy0Dm/s1600/P1050820.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje0z-umqu7ShgAMgt_yEpWu6uH99kBpXtl7YWFpPPlKXHGUOwA5TlwEyXyFP-QozeAJ8UKdl9xlwk0cG5KnzJ8rv0wYPxS9sZ9r1r2hy4fOWvbJdy07FX5usJovOZPs6ZY0zEdp4ucy0Dm/s1600/P1050820.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Time off in the Panaderia also gives Alberto and Christophe time to practice their beer-can stove making abilities. Spain won.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivfokS55K4OPwP7abR56kN8WWvkbaqwJYpWM-BM91Ij8Jr0S8XX7Z2XzDankI-yqOz7HN4FeI5Cu9cQojzFtdBi7pDEydH6au0-2bee3ifzYwHzlp-Xixpa9UGpPwq2oJxOYHYrG3tYS6Y/s1600/P1050822.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivfokS55K4OPwP7abR56kN8WWvkbaqwJYpWM-BM91Ij8Jr0S8XX7Z2XzDankI-yqOz7HN4FeI5Cu9cQojzFtdBi7pDEydH6au0-2bee3ifzYwHzlp-Xixpa9UGpPwq2oJxOYHYrG3tYS6Y/s1600/P1050822.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As always, the presence of other cyclists, particularly from France, Spain or Italy, in these spots leads to great culinary feats. Here the frenchies make apple tart.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsg7zt7FG1o6um6r-Ga_1ajxexqSOg6ItWY3NvtKkaoTKZlZOUl-0YVp5h8-JoHDzEjTFaaTHhp5kOqWdeEGASAcXtewZ6tBJGQtgoEhnow7aNOTeAkQK05BqTFaL7NeppeVlphbEERPfJ/s1600/P1050828.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsg7zt7FG1o6um6r-Ga_1ajxexqSOg6ItWY3NvtKkaoTKZlZOUl-0YVp5h8-JoHDzEjTFaaTHhp5kOqWdeEGASAcXtewZ6tBJGQtgoEhnow7aNOTeAkQK05BqTFaL7NeppeVlphbEERPfJ/s1600/P1050828.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tolhuin is the kind of place where if you're not careful you can stay for a long, long time. But a look at the weather forecast suggests that we should take advantage of a clear day and make it to Ushuaia before a storm rolls through. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWhc4us7GNB4r3jm6yTrgPcWe4oQTF5_Meudxw47wPnjJGg7CzflkCs2TWOAKO92DjDrmPWvYL5CC7ZjUhM4y-G9bQDzEGqHD9izDhnb0CtCRvFDuAvMD2zSKY_kryL1qQvggqJoq97Z0K/s1600/P1050838.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWhc4us7GNB4r3jm6yTrgPcWe4oQTF5_Meudxw47wPnjJGg7CzflkCs2TWOAKO92DjDrmPWvYL5CC7ZjUhM4y-G9bQDzEGqHD9izDhnb0CtCRvFDuAvMD2zSKY_kryL1qQvggqJoq97Z0K/s1600/P1050838.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We often thought that Ushuaia was a rather arbitrary place for so many people to finish their rides, but in fact it means you get to finish by riding through some of the most stunning scenery for a long time. Riding in the autumn also offers some pretty cool colors.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA77b1Y_YKVAWqawsogvsylzE-RNKwv0QZOeul5k4UoPOuC9vtMAAgZUxLh4mTWEbootEuvoXh4dVgp93CAd2-_QRFdsxh4-GQcGhBt9W_AyDIMgg7crHUZPVAnlf8V57-EqYK7j9Cvv2S/s1600/P1050831.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA77b1Y_YKVAWqawsogvsylzE-RNKwv0QZOeul5k4UoPOuC9vtMAAgZUxLh4mTWEbootEuvoXh4dVgp93CAd2-_QRFdsxh4-GQcGhBt9W_AyDIMgg7crHUZPVAnlf8V57-EqYK7j9Cvv2S/s1600/P1050831.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The clouds intensify a bit as we make our way up Paso Garibaldi and over to another valley. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6c-4QMvoLISP5OKRKdZq-khyphenhyphenwxvOMpmNr-wlqpxAEQzmqQZIPVufwQz-_JUESpwtpElfbtBw3z6Cy9O1QQD9J-b50KJqSrXO6GyJ18bVc_iVcgDvWlxSbvlXwuexuamgRpAO8qx-9EFHm/s1600/IMG_3260.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6c-4QMvoLISP5OKRKdZq-khyphenhyphenwxvOMpmNr-wlqpxAEQzmqQZIPVufwQz-_JUESpwtpElfbtBw3z6Cy9O1QQD9J-b50KJqSrXO6GyJ18bVc_iVcgDvWlxSbvlXwuexuamgRpAO8qx-9EFHm/s1600/IMG_3260.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We're glad to be riding on a dry day, as it's clear that precipitation in this area takes the form of snow. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6c-4QMvoLISP5OKRKdZq-khyphenhyphenwxvOMpmNr-wlqpxAEQzmqQZIPVufwQz-_JUESpwtpElfbtBw3z6Cy9O1QQD9J-b50KJqSrXO6GyJ18bVc_iVcgDvWlxSbvlXwuexuamgRpAO8qx-9EFHm/s1600/IMG_3260.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMksYgl7APV6QosqSepJ-EFSf-CDdNWpsjK-TODAf9UHk0TlfW1DdfM3-zJfxNXhr5KYVyO1qK0Eba4l-SV1YjxeS3bYNMt6VVVciDIKCnHkOXXEmd6ghnXWRfsJbmMNEPQhbj-adF3xLW/s1600/P1050852.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMksYgl7APV6QosqSepJ-EFSf-CDdNWpsjK-TODAf9UHk0TlfW1DdfM3-zJfxNXhr5KYVyO1qK0Eba4l-SV1YjxeS3bYNMt6VVVciDIKCnHkOXXEmd6ghnXWRfsJbmMNEPQhbj-adF3xLW/s1600/P1050852.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We arrive to the top of the pass, which to be honest wasn't much of a pass, at 450m above sea level and a gradient so gentle we barely noticed it. But we were in good spirits about our arrival Ushuaia so celebrated anyway. </td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd31oYOVNd9Iiobi72K9s3kf6-rKGTFW7r6weDzbNEvtLZf3ZqQIYAaV4p5lnpdmCMoneKdyrDME8RYs_wttckOoi35VG_CvuXczmkeu98p7Ahi8skgurDgZY6NpQJcJQOPlT9OUPXkqYP/s1600/P1050853.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd31oYOVNd9Iiobi72K9s3kf6-rKGTFW7r6weDzbNEvtLZf3ZqQIYAaV4p5lnpdmCMoneKdyrDME8RYs_wttckOoi35VG_CvuXczmkeu98p7Ahi8skgurDgZY6NpQJcJQOPlT9OUPXkqYP/s1600/P1050853.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But just because it wasn't as high as some other climbs in the Andes doesn't mean it didn't offer spectacular scenery!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAPYIyZ-IUDGhji-Hk4Kyb4vFxHswi1X27CYQ6Q3KdUC5X9m4Dng17mAjWCGQ4EANGEjT53Y7Cj2MT9lHiPSEY7iG4wc8Yvs98dwBKj_3Y-8ZYYErYjZCGaZstWBrTnq784GEdktgE-5HP/s1600/P1050856.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAPYIyZ-IUDGhji-Hk4Kyb4vFxHswi1X27CYQ6Q3KdUC5X9m4Dng17mAjWCGQ4EANGEjT53Y7Cj2MT9lHiPSEY7iG4wc8Yvs98dwBKj_3Y-8ZYYErYjZCGaZstWBrTnq784GEdktgE-5HP/s1600/P1050856.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Although temperatures were very rarely uncomfortably cold for us (with all our layers on), signs of winter were all around.</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1WNKwfneS83uhgTM0PoZrAY_dx02puO6zX7rhDfWcUEONLUYUEixY2KZsTx7sCooM5_FyZygkpwizgMczrauLWyLwULGiOUpVduHBdad6NjHyVBXWlt69lvS_wlYy2EecvfiXy-30Ues8/s1600/P1050854.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1WNKwfneS83uhgTM0PoZrAY_dx02puO6zX7rhDfWcUEONLUYUEixY2KZsTx7sCooM5_FyZygkpwizgMczrauLWyLwULGiOUpVduHBdad6NjHyVBXWlt69lvS_wlYy2EecvfiXy-30Ues8/s1600/P1050854.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Argentinian Tierra del Fuego was full of signs about this missing girl.</td></tr>
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</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYarFXJM0AQyQ9g4mNxwAjL5tq8kXnLHP2PFbwSb4tBFewIGE80s9DA7gM-Lx3bVxt8wM10hhRWOpSHJBhU6zCG5Qvb4J-avnTbHc9SfLYmE8aAAKk7CIouQiHslGoYRZMlS_drpziQqmc/s1600/P1050864.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYarFXJM0AQyQ9g4mNxwAjL5tq8kXnLHP2PFbwSb4tBFewIGE80s9DA7gM-Lx3bVxt8wM10hhRWOpSHJBhU6zCG5Qvb4J-avnTbHc9SfLYmE8aAAKk7CIouQiHslGoYRZMlS_drpziQqmc/s1600/P1050864.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally, in the fading light, the big city comes into view.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVXmk3j_vxkzZLw2W7V-xQhY3daMFgdizCF8GMUO-GtYrAVRSNkF_7Frz6arhMCpKfXsakSNTUQhjxkQQRw0mZvXd19eG1lu5gEPpN0WnI25IahMSb3KDaZi4PrDmj-8-gthlsOxToH8mh/s1600/IMG_3264.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVXmk3j_vxkzZLw2W7V-xQhY3daMFgdizCF8GMUO-GtYrAVRSNkF_7Frz6arhMCpKfXsakSNTUQhjxkQQRw0mZvXd19eG1lu5gEPpN0WnI25IahMSb3KDaZi4PrDmj-8-gthlsOxToH8mh/s1600/IMG_3264.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">USHUAIA!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF6GI-5VHJxpdaY1Rbfs1IyfSME4ZPeRz8ZA2ywQMP-9VY2YZZYCnIMJCKHtsjsu8E4qOATaVwirhomvGbfRUkPVgO7YXEK9E1zoawUXPfgnXoPI-jzLrjZPHcO0BX2BwelvEPbNgIwhAr/s1600/P1050872.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF6GI-5VHJxpdaY1Rbfs1IyfSME4ZPeRz8ZA2ywQMP-9VY2YZZYCnIMJCKHtsjsu8E4qOATaVwirhomvGbfRUkPVgO7YXEK9E1zoawUXPfgnXoPI-jzLrjZPHcO0BX2BwelvEPbNgIwhAr/s1600/P1050872.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The epicenter of the 'Malvinas son Argentinas' campaign.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDpDb_zqKH0nHIHOrv6_4KSWf2amvgHPK80-tsnUwyCWarawegoJTINP2OdMGyr3Ic3cl2S_FBbSxUKu-eznBCj1EZbWzexmVsQQ4KiTT8wucaqFu16hLuFCDO9VHkt91pTQAcj-0kImH3/s1600/P1050870.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDpDb_zqKH0nHIHOrv6_4KSWf2amvgHPK80-tsnUwyCWarawegoJTINP2OdMGyr3Ic3cl2S_FBbSxUKu-eznBCj1EZbWzexmVsQQ4KiTT8wucaqFu16hLuFCDO9VHkt91pTQAcj-0kImH3/s1600/P1050870.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The money shot!</td></tr>
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Route notes:<br />
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- Punta Arenas to Paso Bellavista: We were told there was no water on this stretch but in fact there are two or three freshwater streams and a fair number of estancias. We tried to make sure we were always carrying a full day's load. There is a bus shelter at the junction of the coastal road (Y-71) with the interior Y-635. At the crossroads with the junction to Cameron there is an excellent refugio (no water nearby). Be sure to ask about the status of Paso Bellavista in Porvenir (rather than Punta Arenas). Navigation is easy and signposted. There are no shops along this route after Porvenir. Camping is possible with both Chilean and Argentian aduanas. <br />
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Paso Bellavista to Ushuaia: There are three estancias spread out roughly evenly along the road towards Ruta 3, for water purposes. You join Ruta 3 about 12km south of Rio Grande. More traffic than we are comfortable with but there is a good soft shoulder basically the whole way to Ushuaia. No shops til Tolhuin. Albertohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15789158563391048740noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-1630243943559245062015-04-28T09:00:00.000+01:002015-04-28T18:23:11.118+01:00El Chalten to Punta Arenas: Proper Patagonia, pura pampaUpon leaving El Chalten we knew what to expect: pura pampa. And lots of wind. Luckily though, Flor´s Casa de Ciclistas is a paradise that also supplies riding companions, which in turn can be exactly what you need for the leg to the South. As much as we love each others company, neither of us makes a good windshield. So, we teamed up with some strong, hairy and a bit smelly <i>chicos </i>to ride into the Pampa...<br />
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But then, as we learnt further along the way, the famous Patagonian winds are (mostly) a thing of the summer, and not so strong in the autumn. Despite that, our route South was somehow carefully planned to sleep at the well-known wind shelters that Patagonian-bound cyclists have been using for years. Long gone are those days where fancy hotels and estancias sprung up all over Patagonia...but do they make good shelters once they are abandoned!<br />
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And of course, despite some fellow cyclists complaining at the boredom of the Pampa, we learnt to love it and, in fact, it was a section we always looked forward to riding. It´s another right of passage for those going to Ushuaia or the other way. It is scenery that has to be seen also, and also experience passing through. The nothingness of the place feels good (ok, perhaps not for too many days in a row) and makes you notice how privileged we are to be able to live in "populated" places such as Europe. Imagine seeing the isolated pampa and experiencing the roughness of its weather all year round...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilRtrp92HcKd84Kx9g8kdIdfCc47s3t2UbDYdowZMVmnO-VLTWBt90wdN1TG0GUzczIk2DFKP-5P58I2d9UY-sNhmV5OxZhZhzqWm1OUnUqXG2g_GcLWXFelczcIiEGGDvUZuTRLugmoA/s1600/P1050603.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilRtrp92HcKd84Kx9g8kdIdfCc47s3t2UbDYdowZMVmnO-VLTWBt90wdN1TG0GUzczIk2DFKP-5P58I2d9UY-sNhmV5OxZhZhzqWm1OUnUqXG2g_GcLWXFelczcIiEGGDvUZuTRLugmoA/s1600/P1050603.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After several days of howling winds and torrential vertical rain (which left a few broken tents), we leave El Chaltén before it goes to hibernation for winter</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQvquZdgaWL-lVq4_YJMa7gMxO842fFbMEbDrTAlM0fqmR2aoWumzQ8JVl2AhS0dinxMiEqMeLDSccqYn9IMS54N4a60y46Cv2ZVa2JxcoLOCTDKvtKHBLklIaEXge60v3OVZ7W7W05qcp/s1600/P1050617.JPG" height="480" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And when one leaves El Chaltén in clear weather and turns around, that´s what you get. Cerro Torre is the highest on the left, and then the mighty Fitz Roy standing in the middle</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQvquZdgaWL-lVq4_YJMa7gMxO842fFbMEbDrTAlM0fqmR2aoWumzQ8JVl2AhS0dinxMiEqMeLDSccqYn9IMS54N4a60y46Cv2ZVa2JxcoLOCTDKvtKHBLklIaEXge60v3OVZ7W7W05qcp/s1600/P1050617.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQvquZdgaWL-lVq4_YJMa7gMxO842fFbMEbDrTAlM0fqmR2aoWumzQ8JVl2AhS0dinxMiEqMeLDSccqYn9IMS54N4a60y46Cv2ZVa2JxcoLOCTDKvtKHBLklIaEXge60v3OVZ7W7W05qcp/s1600/P1050617.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaHvA5O2_4D7txnBx6dnsXcCt4ZoE94qpxAoVpWyzqUrqsiXf_pu-odwrrXJee1w1QX34-EREKtd52NkksEw1c-1DbHbxU5wktOR6QLBmetuWLpVP4Ira3KS_t-9phInj6vSTSxnGe17AA/s1600/P1050623.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaHvA5O2_4D7txnBx6dnsXcCt4ZoE94qpxAoVpWyzqUrqsiXf_pu-odwrrXJee1w1QX34-EREKtd52NkksEw1c-1DbHbxU5wktOR6QLBmetuWLpVP4Ira3KS_t-9phInj6vSTSxnGe17AA/s1600/P1050623.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glaciar Viedma (of the Perito Moreno type) appears on your right as you speed out of town propelled by 60 km/h plus winds</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIacnvdd4LMvujGP-Q0T4SuCjV4XotHFaFzj-yS_urvDTjSBPhRuUNlRGEnCK9fX29VbrzOrb5zSjl62KrbqS6lE0WJg0C8IInEM_r1PxmtuYCIKpXYEbL3FkhyphenhyphenTKFS9PvFIA00_dCZ50/s1600/P1050607.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIacnvdd4LMvujGP-Q0T4SuCjV4XotHFaFzj-yS_urvDTjSBPhRuUNlRGEnCK9fX29VbrzOrb5zSjl62KrbqS6lE0WJg0C8IInEM_r1PxmtuYCIKpXYEbL3FkhyphenhyphenTKFS9PvFIA00_dCZ50/s1600/P1050607.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The strong team of cyclists with Christophe (France-Basque Country) in the front, <i>machaca </i>Lucy, Rodrigo (Santiago, Chile) and Samuel (Valparaiso, Chile)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf8pdndeG-yWhIyVMTNz1sy-e1-t01Z8amlULvTnVrr987ohaDw7MRuYD33IEgQxyFWYlt6ndz5oOZKidZFecVs2L8R_XmJSyTa6CA0msXyW1zTJAz-QwX1eGJ5abKzc2j0vH8O3yiLTXV/s1600/P1050630.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf8pdndeG-yWhIyVMTNz1sy-e1-t01Z8amlULvTnVrr987ohaDw7MRuYD33IEgQxyFWYlt6ndz5oOZKidZFecVs2L8R_XmJSyTa6CA0msXyW1zTJAz-QwX1eGJ5abKzc2j0vH8O3yiLTXV/s1600/P1050630.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eventually, and having cruised at more than 30 km/h average, we reached the Ruta 40, turn right sharply, and face some Patagonian crosswinds. Then, somewhere along the road, a woman gets out of car and shouts "Soy Flor soy Flor!". Indeed, she was the legendary Flor, who had been absent but left her house open to us smelly cyclists. We did not have enough words to thank her and wished we had stayed one more day to meet her properly. We all were touched when we saw her in tears as she headed back to El Chaltén - what a woman!<u> Flor, si nos lees, mil gracias por todo y suerte con tu futuro viaje!</u></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf_iqJyhoBErpiy9OZl1tGnMkVFse-0gFzwOZNAcLGIF3To8W5zPI6d2aUXxKl4F6OxOrXUNaqlv9C4XxyXAFsEYwgsu1upcHKVvyV9SKjYINn4JTSjEn36xYlV7fvC9TL_DjaLRbC5Ug/s1600/P1050633.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf_iqJyhoBErpiy9OZl1tGnMkVFse-0gFzwOZNAcLGIF3To8W5zPI6d2aUXxKl4F6OxOrXUNaqlv9C4XxyXAFsEYwgsu1upcHKVvyV9SKjYINn4JTSjEn36xYlV7fvC9TL_DjaLRbC5Ug/s1600/P1050633.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our target for the day, the Casa Rosada. A well-known abandoned building that passing cyclists use to shelter from the elements</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAhZMMMFN2oHH92M42Cz4fyzakWlDdxO_-RrpkPBoedrTmWjO7IFogAHIimTjMcYtWBnygtkTO1H29dbozid_p0spHmqeQnbVkjTi3RFhknrkkjDYwUErSfrIyAzPKF47W9qpSLsOLBoA/s1600/P1050637.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAhZMMMFN2oHH92M42Cz4fyzakWlDdxO_-RrpkPBoedrTmWjO7IFogAHIimTjMcYtWBnygtkTO1H29dbozid_p0spHmqeQnbVkjTi3RFhknrkkjDYwUErSfrIyAzPKF47W9qpSLsOLBoA/s1600/P1050637.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As we were cooking dinner, a cyclist shouts from across the fence asking if there was anybody in the house. It turns out it was Venezuelan Lesther, on his way North to cycle and surf. What a different setup and trip from ours...that surely inspired more than one of us. Maybe Bikeagliding next (cycling and paragliding?)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvnaqNdRnFwB1hSKrxiacQVh4hFX9N77-F5RRciZGR5OzuZhKu4GJi6vJGbgb-nP5mnLJKimqQ48KjFzhTrLlhcGV4nD84vxftz-zk2FRyb91QmTN9eLJqJDxFrkt_Y06YgJZe5fiDZ1s/s1600/P1050643.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvnaqNdRnFwB1hSKrxiacQVh4hFX9N77-F5RRciZGR5OzuZhKu4GJi6vJGbgb-nP5mnLJKimqQ48KjFzhTrLlhcGV4nD84vxftz-zk2FRyb91QmTN9eLJqJDxFrkt_Y06YgJZe5fiDZ1s/s1600/P1050643.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On top of our cycling buddies, we had plenty of guanacos for company</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijYuwhqaMExT3iLtoIWhZRbwI41JnfCGbUrHR70_RqPXRmIGLoCw_YbvuD1HT0ab2l5IPBAU9M6p3ILKs9BoqfLolM8K_nB49THpmkEboPmSi3UAv8ls8jTGvWAg576XdEt3xIOAQwue8/s1600/P1050651.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijYuwhqaMExT3iLtoIWhZRbwI41JnfCGbUrHR70_RqPXRmIGLoCw_YbvuD1HT0ab2l5IPBAU9M6p3ILKs9BoqfLolM8K_nB49THpmkEboPmSi3UAv8ls8jTGvWAg576XdEt3xIOAQwue8/s1600/P1050651.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The following day we pressed on...and past the famous wind signs. Even though there was no wind, we still pretended...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcTK68OQs8kwZI-DgDYpK2qTVJwJ4Qy5PahqiGJlUu9mca8J43ZdWrajs01VA7UUYuvUr7_8xIqQ-oAYiBcKnhCmYTpKwftqf-x1UUx5hMZf-OTsYt4vf66IrEiKHyTi9MnzhsnQlgMU0/s1600/P1050660.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcTK68OQs8kwZI-DgDYpK2qTVJwJ4Qy5PahqiGJlUu9mca8J43ZdWrajs01VA7UUYuvUr7_8xIqQ-oAYiBcKnhCmYTpKwftqf-x1UUx5hMZf-OTsYt4vf66IrEiKHyTi9MnzhsnQlgMU0/s1600/P1050660.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On and on we rolled on the smooth pavement of the 40</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcHqS-GiJSkK_qKuaLH4bFxOhllW1V3B-ryqAKCk_NrHD9nhu5b9jscs-kBaFci6wxmNWcxVGjrXO5WdegsiYn26lUB1XReWJauLK-kunTMH04wIGj_F1stORzOlXI2HVevn2wyHF7zjPg/s1600/IMG_3218.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcHqS-GiJSkK_qKuaLH4bFxOhllW1V3B-ryqAKCk_NrHD9nhu5b9jscs-kBaFci6wxmNWcxVGjrXO5WdegsiYn26lUB1XReWJauLK-kunTMH04wIGj_F1stORzOlXI2HVevn2wyHF7zjPg/s1600/IMG_3218.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">5 km before the turnoff to El Calafate (access town to the Perito Moreno glacier) we know of another abandoned building. We make ourselves comfortable in the only clean roofed room and relaxed... By this point we had already decided not to go to the glacier</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4KSmYC4mzOPpX73-egXmT0I-9h97Iy636GZRl-yX6Nr_0UeYBAxUf4RU2dniR5hBZJZT0gDF1FfIQbpRAFAqze7bSCRMTkdZbDoUfX9dZ2LveIU7phdE6JIOjkyDdfAO3CThZ25rFfxTy/s1600/P1050664.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4KSmYC4mzOPpX73-egXmT0I-9h97Iy636GZRl-yX6Nr_0UeYBAxUf4RU2dniR5hBZJZT0gDF1FfIQbpRAFAqze7bSCRMTkdZbDoUfX9dZ2LveIU7phdE6JIOjkyDdfAO3CThZ25rFfxTy/s1600/P1050664.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Having lost Rodrigo due to a mechanical issue, the following morning we kept going onto a dirt road shortcut. A sign read "don´t do like me and leave a tip" at the entrance?</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu3HQwQIA8u-qwvizAyI7nfVJhFyiIRWwyROt-1T9B9SLY6kjwrIql_4Tlj5F0mtKBVBsVZKXhkOp2lrSiD48sYI3NU6ClPpRyg9pcN3BCfxALTFElrvJpAyV9FYwCb-GbVFNuhlgp6e1z/s1600/P1050672.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu3HQwQIA8u-qwvizAyI7nfVJhFyiIRWwyROt-1T9B9SLY6kjwrIql_4Tlj5F0mtKBVBsVZKXhkOp2lrSiD48sYI3NU6ClPpRyg9pcN3BCfxALTFElrvJpAyV9FYwCb-GbVFNuhlgp6e1z/s1600/P1050672.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Only four left </span><br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzcCnMCZKKOlb4Cm3Wbx4Ks29ITQhSzNxl3EVkOpamIv8nTzj2U6E_fARaAR14iBKSNjeJrfyL7G9GNUOvImBzlxsFJ6Vl6HWDuOe5_Ix-SDHQEw-iMnibksVB6Me34CsFnxvXgqqssmc/s1600/P1050676.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzcCnMCZKKOlb4Cm3Wbx4Ks29ITQhSzNxl3EVkOpamIv8nTzj2U6E_fARaAR14iBKSNjeJrfyL7G9GNUOvImBzlxsFJ6Vl6HWDuOe5_Ix-SDHQEw-iMnibksVB6Me34CsFnxvXgqqssmc/s1600/P1050676.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Knowing that there was a river 20 km into the dirt, we made progress and got there at almost sunset. There was also a handy police station that we used as a shelter.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9krBAKePVCh2rlo-OKYemYh20vyP8OKekgvcPoq1jtgAXQVxSZacxXxEltP6wclbhnFn1DzHQ6ojvpUaE0ZpnrkeqQRp7LMC2OPvahXsW1618CYBeKz9OHIoPFhmQJs0Z16Be8RD7HCQ/s1600/P1050673.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9krBAKePVCh2rlo-OKYemYh20vyP8OKekgvcPoq1jtgAXQVxSZacxXxEltP6wclbhnFn1DzHQ6ojvpUaE0ZpnrkeqQRp7LMC2OPvahXsW1618CYBeKz9OHIoPFhmQJs0Z16Be8RD7HCQ/s1600/P1050673.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A frosty night and a much appreciated morning invitation to come inside the station by the <i>policía-gaucho </i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji_zcmhqiqIVatyGTSStZXM_PaFe-JM0SNJUV61WkbhTQSKd0Y2v-H32Kctz0Gc6_7d0MDd1owfNU8xeomS3Bxn1H466GtS_MciqCJixKiRJc-jwKq2_s_Vlw6WdcLoc6hKps9TGghyBk/s1600/P1050682.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji_zcmhqiqIVatyGTSStZXM_PaFe-JM0SNJUV61WkbhTQSKd0Y2v-H32Kctz0Gc6_7d0MDd1owfNU8xeomS3Bxn1H466GtS_MciqCJixKiRJc-jwKq2_s_Vlw6WdcLoc6hKps9TGghyBk/s1600/P1050682.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving the station we hit more pampa, which nows has turned into rolling pampa, with some mountains visible to our right </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzT_bfYHEjDAv_QU1LIIL8ty_inEs2_NLqA-YMyZ4rAKPjjdUq7OUpYf72VDrUQNceFaZ87WL4zAz1pyEZPkTNGTnGArMJzgCYLG1mnyfzYtRKSQMEF9mtyXUE2g1jXsLZu_NnuPPdzeZr/s1600/P1050692.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzT_bfYHEjDAv_QU1LIIL8ty_inEs2_NLqA-YMyZ4rAKPjjdUq7OUpYf72VDrUQNceFaZ87WL4zAz1pyEZPkTNGTnGArMJzgCYLG1mnyfzYtRKSQMEF9mtyXUE2g1jXsLZu_NnuPPdzeZr/s1600/P1050692.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As we eat up the kms I shout "joder, is that Torres del Paine?". Christophe, who had already been, confirmed. </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSkxmlfPp4dt8wW2o05Dh5pcF1EEX-r7M2VTs68bh-lzqjc-ZOD5WPvY5CwLGvyHnVsxEJSkHzMI2-4kSX3x_05pkQ-Xgtb_LIMOTTGJLDRwhAXAo9eL0x6sCi39pplmT03kehK6PE1x-v/s1600/P1050687.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSkxmlfPp4dt8wW2o05Dh5pcF1EEX-r7M2VTs68bh-lzqjc-ZOD5WPvY5CwLGvyHnVsxEJSkHzMI2-4kSX3x_05pkQ-Xgtb_LIMOTTGJLDRwhAXAo9eL0x6sCi39pplmT03kehK6PE1x-v/s1600/P1050687.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">To the left of the Torres, some other peaks, with the odd flamenco thrown in</span><br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi70UwDady7-AFvCxFemiY9JeGsV-bnrenxtzw252iBoDflqkyfj6D1xcGB715enWjs2K36OW6sb4HC07frIi8hQCEFsdk8iAosL_Exx1hsd4h8kbLmIim4V-PWRNZWyD1GWD1HEo1Lohk/s1600/P1050694.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi70UwDady7-AFvCxFemiY9JeGsV-bnrenxtzw252iBoDflqkyfj6D1xcGB715enWjs2K36OW6sb4HC07frIi8hQCEFsdk8iAosL_Exx1hsd4h8kbLmIim4V-PWRNZWyD1GWD1HEo1Lohk/s1600/P1050694.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Late that evening we left Argentina once again, via Villa Cerro Castillo. The friendly border agents let us sleep in an abandoned house until the following morning.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXTw1P-sOuogGSzTuzZM3H0OQR-OGxU43_C_F6QdGWFe0EVyetblDW_aLmN0xo6BDtph8ap0xBIA8uCbwsTW87YhsFmVa8QeVXZDh2B1_rGZG5fxMdCLS9y4okPqAgCmctrgNt6_CiNLo/s1600/P1050701.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXTw1P-sOuogGSzTuzZM3H0OQR-OGxU43_C_F6QdGWFe0EVyetblDW_aLmN0xo6BDtph8ap0xBIA8uCbwsTW87YhsFmVa8QeVXZDh2B1_rGZG5fxMdCLS9y4okPqAgCmctrgNt6_CiNLo/s1600/P1050701.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After clearing Chilean immigration, we head for a dirt road that goes along Lago Toro, avoiding the hefty fee required to enter Torres del Paine national park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Gg7XV9lZ5HicJAPPOocDjYCWdPk-JjFNTELEmxCDWeHV_6fNtpNGt6mIx1UXIcKPS5ragCy7yGmJpzl9CsUtDu5VQuJxGvADSdiaHO_GTWHV4ny73riRFXcEq4LC11n5AC3TOCbQMUo/s1600/P1050707.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Gg7XV9lZ5HicJAPPOocDjYCWdPk-JjFNTELEmxCDWeHV_6fNtpNGt6mIx1UXIcKPS5ragCy7yGmJpzl9CsUtDu5VQuJxGvADSdiaHO_GTWHV4ny73riRFXcEq4LC11n5AC3TOCbQMUo/s1600/P1050707.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">The dirt road felt like almost pavement, but without the traffic and with great views. That evening we camped early to enjoy an incredible wild camp, with a view of the Torres del Paine in the distance.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: start;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiouAT0s-eU087mrjDVIMSkqhgKu_q1UFA5vyVADGKBeJLrRbOTNgw87opnTVn4H6RnJhKEynvkS0rOrAyBp141dImEFQrqF0zcQhwB5YfT7qkt5prrDtKkNKHfWB50wPUO4E2dZOrswZsg/s1600/P1050704.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiouAT0s-eU087mrjDVIMSkqhgKu_q1UFA5vyVADGKBeJLrRbOTNgw87opnTVn4H6RnJhKEynvkS0rOrAyBp141dImEFQrqF0zcQhwB5YfT7qkt5prrDtKkNKHfWB50wPUO4E2dZOrswZsg/s1600/P1050704.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">A lonely tree on the beach indicates the prevailing winds in our campsite. Yet, once again, another windless night!</td></tr>
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</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXDcq3REvQ_nwLt1Cv1thYI9-81Wwi7H2KRNIRjg2TofhgMGrMWwezKQkEBNd64uUhKzpAKCajeGAIlMRslo-6Oh_o5RIL79PnPDhxkv_1Kz-Ksp1VJmBhfyzlva75wm3VDV_hfyTdKUyG/s1600/P1050705.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXDcq3REvQ_nwLt1Cv1thYI9-81Wwi7H2KRNIRjg2TofhgMGrMWwezKQkEBNd64uUhKzpAKCajeGAIlMRslo-6Oh_o5RIL79PnPDhxkv_1Kz-Ksp1VJmBhfyzlva75wm3VDV_hfyTdKUyG/s1600/P1050705.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And surely it was one of the best camp spots of the entire trip</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: start;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrXoAtQRn5UCQmN2lZHgCUkdm7o0fqfy19hPhqpFvu5oYkkXZXxuPA_PT2WgA7QZzI45g30XTAYRPVnvcHfbs45H2uu-iaagADzAzfHebPGyUQNatOGssV98e0Q61CAGlCCrAiywH4VyXl/s1600/P1050715.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrXoAtQRn5UCQmN2lZHgCUkdm7o0fqfy19hPhqpFvu5oYkkXZXxuPA_PT2WgA7QZzI45g30XTAYRPVnvcHfbs45H2uu-iaagADzAzfHebPGyUQNatOGssV98e0Q61CAGlCCrAiywH4VyXl/s1600/P1050715.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">We had a bit of rain overnight and so when it stopped in the morning, we quickly set off to cover the remaining 40 km to Puerto Natales...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiojxGQ_gkeWiKzX8o3DzlcvqlwJScUTpeP89qGrn_O0Xiuit9CaO14OphwvGGkZ1rZfKAB1stRbEmn4yqXXqh9n-MgQwD_vftPYPrE0cCmyoUz6aH6uTT_XdhUsKe7vHCtbcBgW2bJz2I/s1600/P1050714.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiojxGQ_gkeWiKzX8o3DzlcvqlwJScUTpeP89qGrn_O0Xiuit9CaO14OphwvGGkZ1rZfKAB1stRbEmn4yqXXqh9n-MgQwD_vftPYPrE0cCmyoUz6aH6uTT_XdhUsKe7vHCtbcBgW2bJz2I/s1600/P1050714.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Which, despite its touristy reputation being the access town to Torres del Paine, was very pleasant</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjODGeT1BI-rs_Eq_YtoQ3FWKAxeDLaObX6z8WQTSuXaXj3xiiK8miHk4c5kVlO8cZRsxkiruC2LCStTQyvjJDUC0gLeml253oTfsxH_KFz4yOvu91U9WA6MXLtxjmAcUW35MjnVB0YdxJi/s1600/P1050725.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjODGeT1BI-rs_Eq_YtoQ3FWKAxeDLaObX6z8WQTSuXaXj3xiiK8miHk4c5kVlO8cZRsxkiruC2LCStTQyvjJDUC0gLeml253oTfsxH_KFz4yOvu91U9WA6MXLtxjmAcUW35MjnVB0YdxJi/s1600/P1050725.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Being relatively isolated from the rest of Chile, it Puerto Natales has all the facilities and a real small town feel - at least in the low season!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCb9EoE6e8-Uwx5OR0TsS-fC6GFykzbedCUn68cl1yhswzBpB8b54wQecWNMVF_T7MJ8NwkukgO6AWjvCjUcNi_egM6mzLst0EC-4a7uDfK-ocdqbv457o1sjZplv3bI1ZUfSJ-J2mdZVD/s1600/P1050722.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCb9EoE6e8-Uwx5OR0TsS-fC6GFykzbedCUn68cl1yhswzBpB8b54wQecWNMVF_T7MJ8NwkukgO6AWjvCjUcNi_egM6mzLst0EC-4a7uDfK-ocdqbv457o1sjZplv3bI1ZUfSJ-J2mdZVD/s1600/P1050722.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And some pretty cool fjord views</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiUlFZipOEfgu4MbbiWs3O4qY_H3plvN1Xouse2kdOac-wsh7kRWlUEJY_fAQjiWUeNB426f6mGcgDvQ35bFYJuUZEiLvQEvMgKlCH9O3yfu7WP3stykwoR-cOkYDM7KJwtLI_8xuZW4U/s1600/P1050720.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiUlFZipOEfgu4MbbiWs3O4qY_H3plvN1Xouse2kdOac-wsh7kRWlUEJY_fAQjiWUeNB426f6mGcgDvQ35bFYJuUZEiLvQEvMgKlCH9O3yfu7WP3stykwoR-cOkYDM7KJwtLI_8xuZW4U/s1600/P1050720.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">El Rey de la Bicicleta - no visit to Puerto Natales is complete without one to this legendary place, which has been serving the Puerto Natales cyclists for more than 40 years!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjephFnUgKYbRgWktUos4Y4euDZuHTXH6WyHUZHKu_vs5DxG68Ebi9cSClFGShwZS58EWyzYpUdWZeFwNvV3iXhGTtLPdPbVoucr9XTvyYBBp4rrxVli4WT60itWvj_d6VxJEVtUPkiTnvT/s1600/IMG_3237.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjephFnUgKYbRgWktUos4Y4euDZuHTXH6WyHUZHKu_vs5DxG68Ebi9cSClFGShwZS58EWyzYpUdWZeFwNvV3iXhGTtLPdPbVoucr9XTvyYBBp4rrxVli4WT60itWvj_d6VxJEVtUPkiTnvT/s1600/IMG_3237.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Having forgotten about riding a dirt road stretch out of Natales due to mud and flooded river crossings, we set off on the main road to Punta Arenas, again fearing the crazy Patagonian winds...that never materialised. These bus shelters have been known to be used as shelters, but do watch out for mice/human shit and other delicacies!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmrG22Te0D37umaRt0z9-fn_ao7eaoe7STwvdQm0z0J7Qh_xrF3AixAvZT4eGM0cbYnZ77hOOs9sV7p3KTFYR-6f1JyIAZImKlltDnl-TMwS0GulQ8kFwaJFvA_FyOz0wBbbG05dJ2VTmf/s1600/P1050728.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmrG22Te0D37umaRt0z9-fn_ao7eaoe7STwvdQm0z0J7Qh_xrF3AixAvZT4eGM0cbYnZ77hOOs9sV7p3KTFYR-6f1JyIAZImKlltDnl-TMwS0GulQ8kFwaJFvA_FyOz0wBbbG05dJ2VTmf/s1600/P1050728.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arguably, the route wasn´t the most scenic, but with some music pounding out of Christophe´s speaker, we were all in good spriits!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir_4mosloPsHtNTBoMbqMDcsi92YnPbbyfTc-pa8l0DfdBlhYJkLWamZdqpBhKo9hstHNnQCbzyjehL0iuy_cAfHkb8OzymkHYf9EXyAL9R1QjkK4xgZq-RrkVveJhCWbM5Qqo5dRy5CoG/s1600/P1050729.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir_4mosloPsHtNTBoMbqMDcsi92YnPbbyfTc-pa8l0DfdBlhYJkLWamZdqpBhKo9hstHNnQCbzyjehL0iuy_cAfHkb8OzymkHYf9EXyAL9R1QjkK4xgZq-RrkVveJhCWbM5Qqo5dRy5CoG/s1600/P1050729.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Came mid afternoon and we had already reached our target for the day. Another shelter where cyclists are allowed to camp. Luxury - it even comes with a bench!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRAu14v222J_IbNVXekaDFTRufVTNLq0t8meYuf7A_smd-0uW4EurJPU_xU8C9n4rW3uRgyLFPkdMjG5UM0HQq1xV_0yqOx2CxqJEq1TlN1eo9r_bqcsmTkCmqcS3a3oBYTn7QXb3fEQWs/s1600/P1050735.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRAu14v222J_IbNVXekaDFTRufVTNLq0t8meYuf7A_smd-0uW4EurJPU_xU8C9n4rW3uRgyLFPkdMjG5UM0HQq1xV_0yqOx2CxqJEq1TlN1eo9r_bqcsmTkCmqcS3a3oBYTn7QXb3fEQWs/s1600/P1050735.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The following morning we ride another 100 km until a wonderful estancia, where owner Juan and <i>gaucho</i> Amadeo welcome us with loads of tea and a wood-fire kitchen. We are in heaven! That night it rained cats and dogs, and we were so grateful to be indoors - we need so little to be happy, really</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMt6lmcG3YV5cOEP6rxrg_Ngz35tipO93areZNqV53fAxhjSpu8YQnn5rwHFRKwZLgleK47aU1J45Dy3HeVMV0Y2dD0wU7ylSyEnz6bQZyCg-YsQPftushnN8Unx4LQGg5URVUsm311rYl/s1600/P1050739.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMt6lmcG3YV5cOEP6rxrg_Ngz35tipO93areZNqV53fAxhjSpu8YQnn5rwHFRKwZLgleK47aU1J45Dy3HeVMV0Y2dD0wU7ylSyEnz6bQZyCg-YsQPftushnN8Unx4LQGg5URVUsm311rYl/s1600/P1050739.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unfortunately, the rain does not abate and we ride the entire 70 km left in less than optimal conditions. We arrived wet and cold, but we had a wonderful host waiting for so nothing to worry about. This photo is therefore from the following day</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh9dB1H64kG5Gm-7rXlGTQOLpYSYegT1fB11V_Sj2opEo8hGTBUDnVys1CZX0NAi3prfPs-ZhQ-TMUG9B_PLq0wcJRCxgiaj2KSxn9c7Vg9FCHkR4KC68KlmMsVZrfvhVYuXRvDCInm5xz/s1600/P1050737.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh9dB1H64kG5Gm-7rXlGTQOLpYSYegT1fB11V_Sj2opEo8hGTBUDnVys1CZX0NAi3prfPs-ZhQ-TMUG9B_PLq0wcJRCxgiaj2KSxn9c7Vg9FCHkR4KC68KlmMsVZrfvhVYuXRvDCInm5xz/s1600/P1050737.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Punta Arenas is a large town (for Southern Patagonian standards) that serves as a gateway to Antarctica. But it also has some cool sights, including an impressive cemetery. </td></tr>
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Route notes:<br />
<br />
We only had a strong tailwind out of El Chaltén, the rest of the ride was pretty windless.<br />
<br />
- We followed the usual route South, stayed the night at the Casa Rosada (120 km out of El Chaltén) and then the other abandoned building by the river, 5 km before the turnoff to El Calafate. We loaded enough food in El Chalten to get us to Puerto Natales (6 days).<br />
<br />
- The border crossing at Villa Cerro Castillo is quiet and rather scenic, plus you can ask to stay inside the abandoned station on the Argentinian side. Villa Cerro Castillo has a small shop.<br />
<br />
. We followed a dirt road that goes along the shore of Lago Toro after leaving Villa Cerro Castillo and avoided entering Torres del Paine National Park. It adds about 40 km to the otherwise straightforward route to Natales. There´s fences everywhere, but Chilean law allows access to all waters, so we did just that. We know of a few others who have managed not to pay the hefty 18.000 chilean pesos fee to enter the Park on the road heading North from Villa Cerro Castillo (less if you are Chileno). We just don´t agree with neither the Chilean policy of overcharging visitors nor sneaking in.<br />
<br />
- Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas: we took the main road, as locals said the dirt roads to the South would be almost impassable at this time of the year, following heavy rain. There´s plenty of estancias on all the route, and some rivers/streams, and so we never needed to carry water for more than one overnight.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-38107854925705939052015-04-23T22:00:00.000+01:002015-04-23T16:52:56.244+01:00Days off in El Chalten: Hiking, eating, and waitingWe arrived to El Chalten in glorious weather and found our way to the famous Casa de Ciclistas there. Amazingly, even though Flor was out of town, she made it possible for the casa to remain open and receive cyclists. We were so grateful for this space to relax and share with other cyclists, and did our best to keep its spirit alive in Flor's absence.<br />
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El Chalten is located at the foot of Mount Fitz Roy and is the base for lots of hiking in the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. Knowing that the good weather would not last forever, we lost no time and went on two day hikes right away. This turned out to be a wise decision as the weather soon closed in and we waited out several days of rain and very high winds, passing the time by devising ever more ambitious communal meals with our fellow cyclists. Ten days later, our cabin fever was almost at its limit when the weather finally broke and we could continue our route south.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMNbzWDBiGxmmAakAm1Frnq-lauLT4WWkF5oZmoOZVY76DgzGxaeXslYymjVVhbrnwOcFMWkW4cEROfx4Mgd2WoXkqCAmNaW4CMw9YFQs4xaQpZNmXAdRYp-bYhdkou5KsyVcjovWHpkU/s1600/P1050490.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMNbzWDBiGxmmAakAm1Frnq-lauLT4WWkF5oZmoOZVY76DgzGxaeXslYymjVVhbrnwOcFMWkW4cEROfx4Mgd2WoXkqCAmNaW4CMw9YFQs4xaQpZNmXAdRYp-bYhdkou5KsyVcjovWHpkU/s1600/P1050490.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our walk up to Lago Los Tres featured fall colors and great views almost the whole way</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBIvngUwwnolF_tYsYNOEWNQ11N_m6RqKf1m4aMRJk4JtRcP-KK2VDrtgRCz44G-V3yxdAJ7etDRAJHc-6AKy8rzTlfUoWZ9-9dghcq8DFFNoJXew6Tw68OUdUuEY6v9vgDH-LuH_CIVQ/s1600/P1050492.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBIvngUwwnolF_tYsYNOEWNQ11N_m6RqKf1m4aMRJk4JtRcP-KK2VDrtgRCz44G-V3yxdAJ7etDRAJHc-6AKy8rzTlfUoWZ9-9dghcq8DFFNoJXew6Tw68OUdUuEY6v9vgDH-LuH_CIVQ/s1600/P1050492.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A late departure guarantees you lots of company. The hike only got steep at the very end!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVuTkC9SG3A9wco9ILdARBR6Bfx_f5VGjJgRU6G4bmTTyE1Hpwe95T_3VJA6sPqRqI1cI2L8HGvFMPCnfj05gVi-XoaV1m4TTSHozoltfNk-ylxg5qWIBEk_D5SH7w56d8tp1hiMGAlGg/s1600/P1050500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVuTkC9SG3A9wco9ILdARBR6Bfx_f5VGjJgRU6G4bmTTyE1Hpwe95T_3VJA6sPqRqI1cI2L8HGvFMPCnfj05gVi-XoaV1m4TTSHozoltfNk-ylxg5qWIBEk_D5SH7w56d8tp1hiMGAlGg/s1600/P1050500.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With every new view of Fitz Roy it seems more impressive</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHQNWdM-st7DQVBafs5h0K4vmYuRL7co_SJHpRLQFPfxTPfZdvr-U3pD8bPfqmS5mJIwq_JtDFRr94mlGYc5SZK6Z9T_A_nVdgvl6EufOacuyAQPk9RYRH2VvNK-_RKLpHbvG_jS4nBoU/s1600/P1050503.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHQNWdM-st7DQVBafs5h0K4vmYuRL7co_SJHpRLQFPfxTPfZdvr-U3pD8bPfqmS5mJIwq_JtDFRr94mlGYc5SZK6Z9T_A_nVdgvl6EufOacuyAQPk9RYRH2VvNK-_RKLpHbvG_jS4nBoU/s1600/P1050503.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We can't believe our luck with the weather!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU3BBG7sH4XICphSc-mgDuBuv-PJ9TXSpZ8Sz3B9tZ8Y7aCdX7ktQKrG9PxKmHfdDpyRCSMvqFxDKtivEcpuh0orccbx7di1CDKxV8u9cwpPsRoH46avqk8_iOvMeUDnmLil66-VuCkvY/s1600/P1050532.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU3BBG7sH4XICphSc-mgDuBuv-PJ9TXSpZ8Sz3B9tZ8Y7aCdX7ktQKrG9PxKmHfdDpyRCSMvqFxDKtivEcpuh0orccbx7di1CDKxV8u9cwpPsRoH46avqk8_iOvMeUDnmLil66-VuCkvY/s1600/P1050532.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Next up a walk to Lago Torre and Cerro Torre - apparently even tougher to climb than Fitz Roy itself?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRpyQ1_MtmHDmpAtniEULwD04DJEAJYSaCyy0gjigEmvTTbolBAakgHZ1xtr-9O5DagJOHFiaDg_Y1sta5bOo7zX8_GO0GfwKne2ZzIkS0OOSI-XgInUBtCQSWWWXw9eDueyw3EgCwv8E/s1600/P1050542.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRpyQ1_MtmHDmpAtniEULwD04DJEAJYSaCyy0gjigEmvTTbolBAakgHZ1xtr-9O5DagJOHFiaDg_Y1sta5bOo7zX8_GO0GfwKne2ZzIkS0OOSI-XgInUBtCQSWWWXw9eDueyw3EgCwv8E/s1600/P1050542.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The lake has big and small ice chunks floating from the glacier all the way to the shore (and brave <i>aussies</i> swimming in it!)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb4A7FaDBLR62XYOkMhVaKLQf0MTswEf0LLBOq0Ww-gdBOA6e7Wiwvjac571hB0TS_y2jj1a2lKb-K3mx45AvFVH1z4lfbM70_nQqurN25RFnKvf96ES-fdtDVUY2Qll6zq1PzufY0PIg/s1600/P1050571.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb4A7FaDBLR62XYOkMhVaKLQf0MTswEf0LLBOq0Ww-gdBOA6e7Wiwvjac571hB0TS_y2jj1a2lKb-K3mx45AvFVH1z4lfbM70_nQqurN25RFnKvf96ES-fdtDVUY2Qll6zq1PzufY0PIg/s1600/P1050571.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some pretty impressive clouds start to form as we leave Lago Torre... or is that a UFO?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzlh_b6L3fP4idsWB77y-pZsfLdCXEee6Ve6iVui_C8HXUFieafWqKjiWZBc6UzybWLKWVdKSMzUb-QsRAVxY8r8cPO9FV1kSvHnXmh3gZLGXyFYKZFgRr1MSjIkmVKZ-33EM_grModRA/s1600/P1050578.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzlh_b6L3fP4idsWB77y-pZsfLdCXEee6Ve6iVui_C8HXUFieafWqKjiWZBc6UzybWLKWVdKSMzUb-QsRAVxY8r8cPO9FV1kSvHnXmh3gZLGXyFYKZFgRr1MSjIkmVKZ-33EM_grModRA/s1600/P1050578.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If it's a UFO, now there are two of them...Or maybe even four?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRsleBOBpY94olhDoHssrIgLrivPcIHsjxkWncpmxbZhGXk-OHTCSpn_HHIpvb5BnAk1e2zObWimMV7n9vVbndCnSUAo5TB4yYzOWWUAL30C30978ewaV4D2DCtgY32SDYl9MBMqzBKKk/s1600/P1050589.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRsleBOBpY94olhDoHssrIgLrivPcIHsjxkWncpmxbZhGXk-OHTCSpn_HHIpvb5BnAk1e2zObWimMV7n9vVbndCnSUAo5TB4yYzOWWUAL30C30978ewaV4D2DCtgY32SDYl9MBMqzBKKk/s1600/P1050589.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waiting out the bad weather is made easier by the two friendliest, happiest, calmest, cuddliest kittens we've ever met</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDzZX9PZf1qQVH2IQFN0dMghCbySd5uo_I2dc9u6uTh7bW4igjlOz9NmIhsegwKjh8o_74A1hc42ZDSzXeSjQBc7Ez0FfAYllLWagKDwJjKtaYbem-L9pYNXDYdYxUkVdTSfk89QXDUAU/s1600/P1050594.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDzZX9PZf1qQVH2IQFN0dMghCbySd5uo_I2dc9u6uTh7bW4igjlOz9NmIhsegwKjh8o_74A1hc42ZDSzXeSjQBc7Ez0FfAYllLWagKDwJjKtaYbem-L9pYNXDYdYxUkVdTSfk89QXDUAU/s1600/P1050594.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And of course the communal dinners!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRSpaSYrLAFQkCAfmZ3MXmpUWVZLh6DthyphenhyphenVO5Ivwb4_ENAMS5zf4ZTZkNHoMGRXxHdS1CdDEkJ6GKFFATPKqdyW-NJXf0klyOE3erBL_xXjmWor0IbdpQBoSHiZxox5_55y5blsap5LIE/s1600/P1050599.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRSpaSYrLAFQkCAfmZ3MXmpUWVZLh6DthyphenhyphenVO5Ivwb4_ENAMS5zf4ZTZkNHoMGRXxHdS1CdDEkJ6GKFFATPKqdyW-NJXf0klyOE3erBL_xXjmWor0IbdpQBoSHiZxox5_55y5blsap5LIE/s1600/P1050599.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But with the sun shining again it's time to set off...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglwgMMBpd4VOLeCwJgd89bHLFoVpu_bLjNmy4IwNwrfe0fxa8kvvrjdgGoM2G7UjeLde7u-XQr14teMSSVR57SYFBHTLsQCNvGct_YV8gw4jg7KH7KFXQZK8Cc5kwl8H0yCdfWiRs9vVg/s1600/P1050600.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglwgMMBpd4VOLeCwJgd89bHLFoVpu_bLjNmy4IwNwrfe0fxa8kvvrjdgGoM2G7UjeLde7u-XQr14teMSSVR57SYFBHTLsQCNvGct_YV8gw4jg7KH7KFXQZK8Cc5kwl8H0yCdfWiRs9vVg/s1600/P1050600.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We leave with Rodrigo (Chile), Samuel (Chile), and Christophe (France-Basque Country) to share the work of riding in the winds that are sure to follow. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Notes:<br />
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- El Chaltén was entirely built for the tourism industry. We were lucky to be out of the tourist season, so things were a bit more relaxed. Florencia´s <i>Casa de Ciclistas</i> is a gem of a place, even though we did not have the chance to meet her. Someone who leaves her house opened to all passing cyclists, in her absence, is someone special. Then there´s the "almazen" next to her house, where there´s loads of interesting stuff for purchase - all imaginable seeds, avenas, flours, honey etc. Just one word of caution for passing tourists - they tried to trick us several times in some of the supermarkets in town, when doing the calculations (be specially careful with the supermakert "el gringuito"). Also, prices vary as much as 500% for the very same product, so do shop around. Padería "K Rica" was also very good.<br />
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- The trekking was great, accessible for day hikes and probably very good for multi-day hikes. Almost everything is free of charge (learn from that, Chilean National Parks!) and there´s plenty of info around. We were told the multi-day walk to Paso de Los Vientos was incredible, yet you do need a harness to cross a river.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-55873698743033289162015-04-22T21:51:00.001+01:002015-04-23T16:52:01.601+01:00Villa O'Higgins to El Chalten via the most expensive border crossing ever: Wow!The border crossing between Villa O'Higgins, Chile, and El Chalten, Argentina is legendary amongst cycle tourists. We can remember hearing about it from northbound cyclists way back in the first months of our trip. The crossing is not possible in a car, making it only accessible to cyclists and hikers, giving it a very special feeling. Perhaps not special enough to warrant the price tag, which when all is said and done is roughly $100 US per person depending on a few different options you might take, because the crossing involves two very touristy boat rides.<br />
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We debated turning off of the Austral earlier in order to avoid this totally excessive fee, but ultimately decided that it was the best, and certainly most beautiful, option available to us. Although we still think the boat operators take unfair advantage of those wanting to make the crossing, we have to admit we are very glad we did it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCKHLgXy1chdDjFfo8R54jgae3K8i4bOP5aCCc6YvtF0kR4Ldh6pLrLj-65IzGZws4f4T6uSMNGBA9z328ATdLHl73yO7Vj6x32n88InyLS5u9bmZRWqnSW4th3rFf9qyYc1Ai8xRKgWI/s1600/P1050132.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCKHLgXy1chdDjFfo8R54jgae3K8i4bOP5aCCc6YvtF0kR4Ldh6pLrLj-65IzGZws4f4T6uSMNGBA9z328ATdLHl73yO7Vj6x32n88InyLS5u9bmZRWqnSW4th3rFf9qyYc1Ai8xRKgWI/s1600/P1050132.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our wait for the somewhat unpredictable ferry from Villa O'Higgins coincided with some truly horrible cold and wet weather, so lots of time was spent inside at the eco-camping, trying (ultimately unsuccesfully) to figure out a way to avoid the expensive boat. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD2E0nYIn1BG-N1OzwmKe653_alBzaUv8A04cjmQ6-gLa_aUoFvoOeqA6c583oLs7VN02rGnR1iKMSxdgxdWb0MMhcZIh9NWUh65Y5iaGvyluzb5KB3Zs48HId_GyIJetciNJRyxv190Q/s1600/P1050134.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD2E0nYIn1BG-N1OzwmKe653_alBzaUv8A04cjmQ6-gLa_aUoFvoOeqA6c583oLs7VN02rGnR1iKMSxdgxdWb0MMhcZIh9NWUh65Y5iaGvyluzb5KB3Zs48HId_GyIJetciNJRyxv190Q/s1600/P1050134.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the bright side, we had time to whip up delicious meals every night like this pizza in the campsite's wood burning stove. Four cyclists, four pizzas. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7N_vIYQJkV37QSHuoj86l5DdBm4uaCyTDuX_Gr_NawW9M40l9Sg9DARSLw1q1AqRxiXVha0m9yZ9wtVc8ofZ1eaT3BTUfB1Imrsa9JRG2IEtMzlJ11f4ZeJHyAO36GTY8QSDy5BoNxJk/s1600/P1050153.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7N_vIYQJkV37QSHuoj86l5DdBm4uaCyTDuX_Gr_NawW9M40l9Sg9DARSLw1q1AqRxiXVha0m9yZ9wtVc8ofZ1eaT3BTUfB1Imrsa9JRG2IEtMzlJ11f4ZeJHyAO36GTY8QSDy5BoNxJk/s1600/P1050153.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the last day before the boat, the weather finally cleared and we discovered that Villa O'Higgins is surrounded by stunning mountains.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJgu_vpg0ETYsx6diHWdVLZXjIlzqONap2TYCp18eeh0BclcwMBWXljipIFhKsIHYtN3YpaYKRc35rlXSZdZ39c22Rb4sZ1aD8nahXCu4HEyBWsaeFy4sks9Ak9yv2624LgyV7-I4M-EQ/s1600/P1050162.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJgu_vpg0ETYsx6diHWdVLZXjIlzqONap2TYCp18eeh0BclcwMBWXljipIFhKsIHYtN3YpaYKRc35rlXSZdZ39c22Rb4sZ1aD8nahXCu4HEyBWsaeFy4sks9Ak9yv2624LgyV7-I4M-EQ/s1600/P1050162.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally, the morning of the crossing arrives. We have to leave before dawn to ride the 7km to the port for the morning departure. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFVReTvevoS_LMLMRUgX151__IwbyWoM9ku4mA_XWyornVBwqFddDidrUOBpMwRfd8lIArITii6UAx9Gh7Cn9VCFQmOdvU9JKk-hc6UAwcBl4cl3VuNBgKuQfs5UnfFd228yxsGQ4eWuk/s1600/P1050174.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFVReTvevoS_LMLMRUgX151__IwbyWoM9ku4mA_XWyornVBwqFddDidrUOBpMwRfd8lIArITii6UAx9Gh7Cn9VCFQmOdvU9JKk-hc6UAwcBl4cl3VuNBgKuQfs5UnfFd228yxsGQ4eWuk/s1600/P1050174.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As we said, it's a pretty popular route with cyclists!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgARG1PyvJ28-12QgZ2hzVn5cbL_6yyWyjWBvFWug2w1aL4GIwhakzZoDzBgGO4Qzq31On52c3ZcCppGqVHTlT518DZUqhmdgNWD2VAG6lO1hEB5BMsfpqyfXLxncJl4-pO_fHAptsQuHE/s1600/IMG_3074.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgARG1PyvJ28-12QgZ2hzVn5cbL_6yyWyjWBvFWug2w1aL4GIwhakzZoDzBgGO4Qzq31On52c3ZcCppGqVHTlT518DZUqhmdgNWD2VAG6lO1hEB5BMsfpqyfXLxncJl4-pO_fHAptsQuHE/s1600/IMG_3074.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Faced with the choice between paying a lot to cross the lake, and paying a little bit more than a lot to visit Glaciar O'Higgins AND cross the lake, we decide for the latter. On the way to the glaciar, we pass impressive icebergs...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrz3b1Yc7CsxRGM5_ZGbBy3o6P8tCrIqc7Mu3vY-fdZT8vjWKa9-wcJjcQl2nVH_UqIrXMOjutlEAE_hqOxNj1765rY4XIL2n3dg28Cit6HznQbVS_3mxrrtgjcKPaoxaAnx0_hxVWbjM/s1600/P1050221.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrz3b1Yc7CsxRGM5_ZGbBy3o6P8tCrIqc7Mu3vY-fdZT8vjWKa9-wcJjcQl2nVH_UqIrXMOjutlEAE_hqOxNj1765rY4XIL2n3dg28Cit6HznQbVS_3mxrrtgjcKPaoxaAnx0_hxVWbjM/s1600/P1050221.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and then finally approach the glaciar itself.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEginuqABnnBldHCFlf3AkLY2GR5xIolHUantlDu_XdACHCJYJUyVa99_qp4u26yu90GVA27Q5cuUp2Uw9waT0CFZz0ubYZLK1UK21-VXQtUT3vxMUbShfiPrzu6HWNk_Bs-PlWwokgs8wU/s1600/P1050265.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEginuqABnnBldHCFlf3AkLY2GR5xIolHUantlDu_XdACHCJYJUyVa99_qp4u26yu90GVA27Q5cuUp2Uw9waT0CFZz0ubYZLK1UK21-VXQtUT3vxMUbShfiPrzu6HWNk_Bs-PlWwokgs8wU/s1600/P1050265.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Perhaps not as big as the Perito Moreno, but still quite impressive compared to a tiny inflatable zodiac...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh64MOBO9bGYwd9XlUHKUCs_hj33_mB7VFSBto4O9sxhnrqSq2PAaksPqhavoZom9mrOGSHvrngZDrH9Fh6IlL_If4ELqVA9goclunfoy8NhO5It8wkXPfgNavnBBnnYhvRIox55_8Cak/s1600/P1050229.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh64MOBO9bGYwd9XlUHKUCs_hj33_mB7VFSBto4O9sxhnrqSq2PAaksPqhavoZom9mrOGSHvrngZDrH9Fh6IlL_If4ELqVA9goclunfoy8NhO5It8wkXPfgNavnBBnnYhvRIox55_8Cak/s1600/P1050229.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We spent a lot of time staring silently at the glaciar...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwQkABrR4q6cfjPbayKjDWJb9CFVLHkVGWH7VlTsU_N-nqumUcATOwaG31I8h5lYXwAxkjDbbtIftfloBQWrzh-YeyAWFztZedqS9zXmbfcl2M7V5ERTD_2qqxpkcc7jVwhdVqHZUFafE/s1600/P1050277.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwQkABrR4q6cfjPbayKjDWJb9CFVLHkVGWH7VlTsU_N-nqumUcATOwaG31I8h5lYXwAxkjDbbtIftfloBQWrzh-YeyAWFztZedqS9zXmbfcl2M7V5ERTD_2qqxpkcc7jVwhdVqHZUFafE/s1600/P1050277.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4QuoNGoUSSLPul9_bNVZ84-Cv7TH0UeRjb9J8_fQGCQEzjFExca1ePACjpMUfHVxLi_aPM60AROeJg1TdCSQmJoU9K-TFU9zRkQaXSvR92GlFdwYz9qvizEw0OzPmqzyj6Inx14tqRUo/s1600/P1050309.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4QuoNGoUSSLPul9_bNVZ84-Cv7TH0UeRjb9J8_fQGCQEzjFExca1ePACjpMUfHVxLi_aPM60AROeJg1TdCSQmJoU9K-TFU9zRkQaXSvR92GlFdwYz9qvizEw0OzPmqzyj6Inx14tqRUo/s1600/P1050309.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg7U8YtD2nXJLbA1t9DGxm3AVyyzBhkgpeWITNra_CYawaMatQ_C7yVEVhlMfM6U5wSKZAlqk3hgnXvFTQcng_HsTqcUVqi8_ylSdk4yTpYnyZsj7V0-59mGdtCfEtdxpGjXB5p8KCmQ4/s1600/P1050288.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg7U8YtD2nXJLbA1t9DGxm3AVyyzBhkgpeWITNra_CYawaMatQ_C7yVEVhlMfM6U5wSKZAlqk3hgnXvFTQcng_HsTqcUVqi8_ylSdk4yTpYnyZsj7V0-59mGdtCfEtdxpGjXB5p8KCmQ4/s1600/P1050288.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg7U8YtD2nXJLbA1t9DGxm3AVyyzBhkgpeWITNra_CYawaMatQ_C7yVEVhlMfM6U5wSKZAlqk3hgnXvFTQcng_HsTqcUVqi8_ylSdk4yTpYnyZsj7V0-59mGdtCfEtdxpGjXB5p8KCmQ4/s1600/P1050288.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And nearby it, the Glaciar "chico" </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwQVHZ2dm7oZZHCuw1ZGtxVHYq9dUJQoIh2B79LI43uhX7nnvaJZA5ZrUBcwAj_qCRQajFezhuHN5xYBcVtXMpVstlz0WqmW6TDPWWg3sZMOlEzpo0vWYE3mDLKMmPpqSo2JK8s6EP76I/s1600/P1050222.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwQVHZ2dm7oZZHCuw1ZGtxVHYq9dUJQoIh2B79LI43uhX7nnvaJZA5ZrUBcwAj_qCRQajFezhuHN5xYBcVtXMpVstlz0WqmW6TDPWWg3sZMOlEzpo0vWYE3mDLKMmPpqSo2JK8s6EP76I/s1600/P1050222.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We are really surprised by how close we feel to the glaciar, although we know we are a safe distance away.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYqAzFJnwwhJ7aMDAUdlSj6ImrS9pOeiGOCJPy-AFJxanp3lSLmLrG6UsVFJc-4Dt4gt1hBy3SQ0rN-X5cjfPsqrqyGu5ihOlQu7Z0sGrh_dp8OeOFyuIxNqgenDVdXGaOChkYq1rTezk/s1600/P1050293.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYqAzFJnwwhJ7aMDAUdlSj6ImrS9pOeiGOCJPy-AFJxanp3lSLmLrG6UsVFJc-4Dt4gt1hBy3SQ0rN-X5cjfPsqrqyGu5ihOlQu7Z0sGrh_dp8OeOFyuIxNqgenDVdXGaOChkYq1rTezk/s1600/P1050293.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As ever in Patagonia, you can't take a sunny day like this for granted and we are very glad to be able to see the amazing blues of the ice.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWgzGB5VWMtNDKwUtmBs1nTLBVRm45TpK0uElmKV5Ow-Wsr3F4Xf8Vcd_yVJ4HH8ppE1otPQ58qHaket_86VI6qn4JpmQfZJ4XLu4WZxK5RHDP7WSenM5QVHJvWO22VOwGfDH6POiWqlY/s1600/P1050241.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWgzGB5VWMtNDKwUtmBs1nTLBVRm45TpK0uElmKV5Ow-Wsr3F4Xf8Vcd_yVJ4HH8ppE1otPQ58qHaket_86VI6qn4JpmQfZJ4XLu4WZxK5RHDP7WSenM5QVHJvWO22VOwGfDH6POiWqlY/s1600/P1050241.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Once you've paid tourist prices, you might as well go all in and take cheesy touristy pictures</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwJ3ynGbzVskTr17M1xnP0NH87r26bPVoGO_yGv2h99yk3lDKjRGWortv01-93_hJYC1ybm04KrAsmugVdd7jVOot9q0rAsIekETaNhbEKyuQytdCyTK2zaYBbzagLFcpXwDmfBcsRMP4/s1600/P1050245.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwJ3ynGbzVskTr17M1xnP0NH87r26bPVoGO_yGv2h99yk3lDKjRGWortv01-93_hJYC1ybm04KrAsmugVdd7jVOot9q0rAsIekETaNhbEKyuQytdCyTK2zaYBbzagLFcpXwDmfBcsRMP4/s1600/P1050245.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Many of the other cyclists also opted to take the glaciar trip, so we were in good company. Check out those long beards!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoZQfO8TjQ0tpeERuhqgRK1O2r2xbNWA1dcPW4DD0xqRHNhAqoWmYb4pPXkeZByLxWUHWj8M4oDCKN6-jnbajBIii2oX7OHg1wYluIxbsLrIbxPtcqiqfdTRp520hD2lS857fGKkll3E4/s1600/P1050281.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoZQfO8TjQ0tpeERuhqgRK1O2r2xbNWA1dcPW4DD0xqRHNhAqoWmYb4pPXkeZByLxWUHWj8M4oDCKN6-jnbajBIii2oX7OHg1wYluIxbsLrIbxPtcqiqfdTRp520hD2lS857fGKkll3E4/s1600/P1050281.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">To complete the full silly tourist experience, we are served a (cheap) whiskey with ice from the glaciar. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEdNSYhFceNmqMi-8JH-0XLA5HNValil_eZyZNJ_sVZF4L-879VN2ifsq3N5gUXrLyFxhP1SbzMMTzunHk7E7Xzl4jrCbFhwBp9zu7ayEvJeTta7igxnAKKgLrgf2ZFnilMl7xmZB8DWI/s1600/P1050310.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEdNSYhFceNmqMi-8JH-0XLA5HNValil_eZyZNJ_sVZF4L-879VN2ifsq3N5gUXrLyFxhP1SbzMMTzunHk7E7Xzl4jrCbFhwBp9zu7ayEvJeTta7igxnAKKgLrgf2ZFnilMl7xmZB8DWI/s1600/P1050310.JPG" height="480" width="640" /> </a></td><td style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arriving into Candelario Mansilla in the late afternoon, we made ourselves at home in the refugio nearby, which had been left fully stocked with wood and has an amazing wood burning stove. </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiOTm5i2TSHLjD-0jznldWRfVo-xuRPuYXRC5J-Hi2gw6AxMRSefdbc3o8690bj7If59QBLsh5zRz_6NZ0oQWI_tqb_qbmBw6Z58V4vUIxLj4wGMIqYpdks8rw-XyVukgCNeZQfWQJ0uI/s1600/P1050320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiOTm5i2TSHLjD-0jznldWRfVo-xuRPuYXRC5J-Hi2gw6AxMRSefdbc3o8690bj7If59QBLsh5zRz_6NZ0oQWI_tqb_qbmBw6Z58V4vUIxLj4wGMIqYpdks8rw-XyVukgCNeZQfWQJ0uI/s1600/P1050320.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With blue skies and yet more incredible views of Lago O'Higgins the next morning, we set off to get our passports stamped out of Chile.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimWP2Uf-R8cpEOaaqA7qCkap0jwV9rIbtMA7TLGFFqw70uJ1SMGRb6F28Jm8rKZ6JYLWHCuQjSCVIcL1n_AKAFXomDMC9YWJHaj2yz91VJfV1D8uCGxL_65r2rVVrJ8k1zkRtn5T2OlKs/s1600/P1050335.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimWP2Uf-R8cpEOaaqA7qCkap0jwV9rIbtMA7TLGFFqw70uJ1SMGRb6F28Jm8rKZ6JYLWHCuQjSCVIcL1n_AKAFXomDMC9YWJHaj2yz91VJfV1D8uCGxL_65r2rVVrJ8k1zkRtn5T2OlKs/s1600/P1050335.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The climb out of <i>carabineros</i> is a short but steep one...but what a reward it was when we catch the first glimpse of the famous Fitz Roy</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqqeo4rOkApLqBsXyhhJbsMOwSk8iulDWn_fbnFq-FZCcpLmWKvigpIDr42NE60a1QykwK1OyZpBnRtk3Mi5EWMUEsFD9Ff-yz5Wt-V-OnkXE4bWTJiN-2cnYsi0DPosYZVJ5FYxa2mAo/s1600/P1050338.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqqeo4rOkApLqBsXyhhJbsMOwSk8iulDWn_fbnFq-FZCcpLmWKvigpIDr42NE60a1QykwK1OyZpBnRtk3Mi5EWMUEsFD9Ff-yz5Wt-V-OnkXE4bWTJiN-2cnYsi0DPosYZVJ5FYxa2mAo/s1600/P1050338.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From there on it is a delight to ride such a beautiful road towards the Argentinian side</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkGdS7034QFGWaV8bBAuKlNmYHBd1NrKzt18ighNa2R7fVQQQDTakzZC-gLCs5uKvSoo-iE0Lb-m-I8J0z-sgemdxfp5y9H5p_PbREz7rHrLq8AL3Go9HMevmC-Jlp0Wwo8unH76UdlOY/s1600/P1050360.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkGdS7034QFGWaV8bBAuKlNmYHBd1NrKzt18ighNa2R7fVQQQDTakzZC-gLCs5uKvSoo-iE0Lb-m-I8J0z-sgemdxfp5y9H5p_PbREz7rHrLq8AL3Go9HMevmC-Jlp0Wwo8unH76UdlOY/s1600/P1050360.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In Argentina we swapped dirt roads for singletrack and meet up with the other cyclists</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif-EKe__fWDm9hxSAh74ciOCPhuWzEh_C5D4zWUCuveZMkz637-7o9ONQLW96xs6szIp5Iuiz-22rR0FL_jY_jzxkEMVaPFmVdOFqPgemZsB4WT8DHFpwGXbAfDJ9uw2gg16Q-C_ex97k/s1600/IMG_3099.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif-EKe__fWDm9hxSAh74ciOCPhuWzEh_C5D4zWUCuveZMkz637-7o9ONQLW96xs6szIp5Iuiz-22rR0FL_jY_jzxkEMVaPFmVdOFqPgemZsB4WT8DHFpwGXbAfDJ9uw2gg16Q-C_ex97k/s1600/IMG_3099.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But sometimes the singletrack becomes unrideable, slippery and muddy. We fell many times and got wet, but still it was so much fun</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH2011rS49Y2HHlYpH_dGYF-39K-VVLm-Ick4as3QySo_kJrY2tDDg3VjvWimcppulp4bG0aMHZb-hmC-W4NtNayEqX0Ggr8__wi8NhI8husl9U8m4AHe24bHvFh_Y8rYMV68rAD2syKc/s1600/P1050391.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH2011rS49Y2HHlYpH_dGYF-39K-VVLm-Ick4as3QySo_kJrY2tDDg3VjvWimcppulp4bG0aMHZb-hmC-W4NtNayEqX0Ggr8__wi8NhI8husl9U8m4AHe24bHvFh_Y8rYMV68rAD2syKc/s1600/P1050391.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eventually we hit the famous narrow section. At this point our V-brakes are useless due to mud and water, so we pretty much freewheel down to Lago del Desierto</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5qWYLH43ObLHrPZvsX_20Xa1XkyOnxCUYQ-p2qGsXbVn5cE1BI8bfAkmDAy7Y18sQX3p-CmWHqUkc_FbyQc9-IH_n6WWdAGTbd74k4SMdjt8TmjXvL2pCyVC8oAlFpMRI4dYPQ4dniKE/s1600/IMG_3101.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5qWYLH43ObLHrPZvsX_20Xa1XkyOnxCUYQ-p2qGsXbVn5cE1BI8bfAkmDAy7Y18sQX3p-CmWHqUkc_FbyQc9-IH_n6WWdAGTbd74k4SMdjt8TmjXvL2pCyVC8oAlFpMRI4dYPQ4dniKE/s1600/IMG_3101.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After our long days of rain in Villa O'Higgins, we can't quite believe how lucky we are. And those views of the Fitz Roy will be in our memories for a very long time</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLhOx5U0IQ9YpbJ2T5x6XTvBU4K6rJ9MoBeiQ3TJGqrcJYQ3M7rup9jiTqq8Ec3Fa98RoGYe0bA5gyLH0TdRScvo8hcCnj4-jtMJePyTCcG_KLIpq25rZUZAyYZx-GSgGn4yqD6uRQ6TE/s1600/P1050417.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLhOx5U0IQ9YpbJ2T5x6XTvBU4K6rJ9MoBeiQ3TJGqrcJYQ3M7rup9jiTqq8Ec3Fa98RoGYe0bA5gyLH0TdRScvo8hcCnj4-jtMJePyTCcG_KLIpq25rZUZAyYZx-GSgGn4yqD6uRQ6TE/s1600/P1050417.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At night we camped by the lake, and enjoy yet another magnificent sunset. Things don't get much better than this...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkIMo1lulyVcqa4e1jW9q5GvZA_krE0lxDsiUm-v_IyCfQu3wgg99Iv4b9r8w0SkCx75V5jLHfM_ytrw92ORsfH53z3bLjB_TEPyqKcMCOmgkA_fDYQn9vVOVHDkblX6gQloamKA8pe-U/s1600/IMG_3104.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkIMo1lulyVcqa4e1jW9q5GvZA_krE0lxDsiUm-v_IyCfQu3wgg99Iv4b9r8w0SkCx75V5jLHfM_ytrw92ORsfH53z3bLjB_TEPyqKcMCOmgkA_fDYQn9vVOVHDkblX6gQloamKA8pe-U/s1600/IMG_3104.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But before it gets dark, one last chance to try out the (broken) fishing rod</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5qWYLH43ObLHrPZvsX_20Xa1XkyOnxCUYQ-p2qGsXbVn5cE1BI8bfAkmDAy7Y18sQX3p-CmWHqUkc_FbyQc9-IH_n6WWdAGTbd74k4SMdjt8TmjXvL2pCyVC8oAlFpMRI4dYPQ4dniKE/s1600/IMG_3101.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhftREmhECLTr2OFIgycMUdpaUaKYyBwQTcGc5xq0Y25BvjYF97tDz1sYpTE6xbbqNokv3Lt2n0kLBGtTq7Z8eacTHorl5l-caDZ5Y5WYbQqfn4Zjj-waCEhLxSYx9p3FqYALXTy9iF1eE/s1600/P1050445.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhftREmhECLTr2OFIgycMUdpaUaKYyBwQTcGc5xq0Y25BvjYF97tDz1sYpTE6xbbqNokv3Lt2n0kLBGtTq7Z8eacTHorl5l-caDZ5Y5WYbQqfn4Zjj-waCEhLxSYx9p3FqYALXTy9iF1eE/s1600/P1050445.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the morning we decide to walk the length of the Lago del Desierto, thus avoiding the hefty fee to cross it by boat (the bikes did go on the boat though, at half the price of a person)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoADXzAS4PwkkS-bTfqT16EVUvHocBx_JTEaA39xlUHAyC3IxMEGZiv7WKGtGmj8fwT6y_GWsyWxiT4A7xs-8b0t4KMYBC3I4aAqSF847g-UWCcJiPq7xyCTM-TJpGDRL7FsS_VWiWN5w/s1600/P1050458.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoADXzAS4PwkkS-bTfqT16EVUvHocBx_JTEaA39xlUHAyC3IxMEGZiv7WKGtGmj8fwT6y_GWsyWxiT4A7xs-8b0t4KMYBC3I4aAqSF847g-UWCcJiPq7xyCTM-TJpGDRL7FsS_VWiWN5w/s1600/P1050458.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The walk was tough but stunning...and we were glad we did not attempt it with the bikes, as it would have been really rough to say the least!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH6vyy6F-G8Hu1D6yVsBqm6w7oNIyCDFqDhIt6GJ5pIZx38hXT1LmG0zlj-wVpaPIHmDiie7JyO3xezXgHuOyYE3JxcEjGhudMXfcCYgxP34DdNmAKyXUhXkiR7NSD5nF835yvmQYNHQM/s1600/P1050438.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH6vyy6F-G8Hu1D6yVsBqm6w7oNIyCDFqDhIt6GJ5pIZx38hXT1LmG0zlj-wVpaPIHmDiie7JyO3xezXgHuOyYE3JxcEjGhudMXfcCYgxP34DdNmAKyXUhXkiR7NSD5nF835yvmQYNHQM/s1600/P1050438.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We stuffed our faces with tasty <i>calafates</i>, the famous berry that grows around this part of the world.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCdBSXKMY254L0zUqiYzq3MWnbQZx93QHt2FpigtQtaEFti7HQQyhx0lCOR3op6VYlhe9cNFl6gR5d8N8O0f9By9JSq8zTMpFGQ-GQwpWMJ6kWRfthhs9R5Sof8CAurTDOWnUZl2J1ido/s1600/P1050452.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCdBSXKMY254L0zUqiYzq3MWnbQZx93QHt2FpigtQtaEFti7HQQyhx0lCOR3op6VYlhe9cNFl6gR5d8N8O0f9By9JSq8zTMpFGQ-GQwpWMJ6kWRfthhs9R5Sof8CAurTDOWnUZl2J1ido/s1600/P1050452.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And as we see our cycling buddies go past on the boat, we take a lunch break and enjoy the views. By now, seeing a glacier right in front of you was so so common...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6SXp7LLo2qtiETfK399724oh0_BnAvp6K7qrruwEe834lzSfE8AqKN28OExcCPvqYHHwsQI8UWGr8jl7ZMrZQGx4GnUZI9Bwc7wlbglEN6NWj_MM86GqGDAxH4FBwUKskeJ2FgsCFJZQ/s1600/P1050469.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6SXp7LLo2qtiETfK399724oh0_BnAvp6K7qrruwEe834lzSfE8AqKN28OExcCPvqYHHwsQI8UWGr8jl7ZMrZQGx4GnUZI9Bwc7wlbglEN6NWj_MM86GqGDAxH4FBwUKskeJ2FgsCFJZQ/s1600/P1050469.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After a night with the friendly <i>gendarme</i> on the southern side of Lago del Desierto, we set off for the last 40 km before El Chalten, again, in glorious weather. </td></tr>
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Route notes:<br />
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- The ferry ride across Lago O'Higgins is ridiculously expensive no matter what you do. In January and February there's an alternative at 33.000 pesos chilenos instead of 44.000 (as of this April 2015). There's another boat for the villagers, which technically cannot be used by tourists, but we've known of some who have and have paid from zero to 30.000 pesos. Ask around Villa O'Higgins. <br />
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- Then there's another boat to cross Lago del Desierto in Argentina. It costs 420 pesos Argentinos. If buying directly from Robinson Crusoe it's possible to pay 30 USD or 18,000 CHP. If buying from the other boat operator directly at the lake, the exchange rates are less favorable (42 USD). Paying just to ferry the bike across seems to be a new trend this year and the prices seem to be in flux. When we passed it was half the cost of a passenger. (Of course if there are backpackers crossing in the same boat they can pretend the bike is theirs...) The hike is 16km along the lake, very pleasant but with plenty of ups and downs - it took us about 5 hours. We would not attempt it with a loaded bike though - maybe with a lightweight setting and lots of patience (be prepared to camp en route).Unknownnoreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-47894592999712477732015-04-22T18:17:00.001+01:002015-04-22T18:17:39.735+01:00Coyhaique to Villa O´Higgins: Riding the carretera austral (part 2)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Our time on the famed Carretera Austral until Coyhaique had been pleasant, uncomplicated, and sunny. But with the casa de ciclistas closing on the First of March, it was time to head South again into Autumn on the Austral. Grayer skies accompanied us for most of the way now, but with the end of the high season also came quieter roads, and as we moved further away from Coyhaique, the Austral began to take on a more remote feeling. We really felt privileged to ride through such a special landscape and, as the weather deteriorated, grateful for the small bits of infrastructure that do exist to make things a bit easier for cyclists. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIOqOmC5izE_9YccyL2Ts49WkiAPbJ-jDpnCQOg15ENQ1jUGTvO9_eJVeBWGOCnVz9zeEDojM0N8zqKtkg4foRpvEokqsmSd45EFn59NVeIFnuMqqOZmRLxMCCO_tgZ08VlbjNZPapx5CD/s1600/P1040798.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIOqOmC5izE_9YccyL2Ts49WkiAPbJ-jDpnCQOg15ENQ1jUGTvO9_eJVeBWGOCnVz9zeEDojM0N8zqKtkg4foRpvEokqsmSd45EFn59NVeIFnuMqqOZmRLxMCCO_tgZ08VlbjNZPapx5CD/s1600/P1040798.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We pass through Cerro Castillo in the late afternoon and start looking for a place to camp-- it proves surpisingly hard as there are plenty of fences all around, and the unfenced land is filled with spiky plants that are the enemy of bike tires, inflatable mattresses, tent floors, and of course legs. Finally, we find a spot and set up camp just as the sun is going down...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim6DjH0YU7OXheW-_f3oxZP3Hi2jblPLbd42My4dVpN7TPRPQX6ImgcbFJUZNAC7mfndH5MLY60aqTEkEblUdUgE_dksr-bnxyW7hyKnvPDBy7ROLIryc8qtrU8Yj1FBebtSFCDmbQdCvF/s1600/P1040809.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim6DjH0YU7OXheW-_f3oxZP3Hi2jblPLbd42My4dVpN7TPRPQX6ImgcbFJUZNAC7mfndH5MLY60aqTEkEblUdUgE_dksr-bnxyW7hyKnvPDBy7ROLIryc8qtrU8Yj1FBebtSFCDmbQdCvF/s1600/P1040809.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and in the morning we enjoy breakfast with a view of the Cerro Castillo</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQGpmg2pYn8f6Pk42u-svIKc4WHNmZwBQ9QWOU11ogVkIulwRN8GRKGbz5hUQVGv2HsnN3wYHy1eBwZHxaXMb3Rul3jl2Ncpm3lzv9Sba6NcmRRTKWJVrvAaIR2u3SIdDbh7bIdJwA7y8e/s1600/P1040823.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQGpmg2pYn8f6Pk42u-svIKc4WHNmZwBQ9QWOU11ogVkIulwRN8GRKGbz5hUQVGv2HsnN3wYHy1eBwZHxaXMb3Rul3jl2Ncpm3lzv9Sba6NcmRRTKWJVrvAaIR2u3SIdDbh7bIdJwA7y8e/s1600/P1040823.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Then keep pedalling into greener and lumpier terrain</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheSY-zeVu5lqqkZFK0ZpNQvYGQBfoCemf1TZPSClyMfEWXM-mC1wCPROCQY0GOkx4KnFQUGvBfVZTLDk6RxLdqbjHHdUPu2-ZQjYxbTq4up_ypTdhoSyy69kadYDugQ2mdgvmVHn78-1_v/s1600/P1040832.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheSY-zeVu5lqqkZFK0ZpNQvYGQBfoCemf1TZPSClyMfEWXM-mC1wCPROCQY0GOkx4KnFQUGvBfVZTLDk6RxLdqbjHHdUPu2-ZQjYxbTq4up_ypTdhoSyy69kadYDugQ2mdgvmVHn78-1_v/s1600/P1040832.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Also the rivers are getting big now...Here with Lucas and Martina taking in the views of the emerald waters that would accompany us for the remainder of the Austral</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5lUEJbWSI-8bUnZxZKmtUZf8sjfDWqbNNuye4ioHgPv8nvYFJm-tViPKCxDtYWRe72wQtyJ4lqiLjKXJbSFTKOlaYDCW8Q3bHiCqyYzRfVC8XHLkNUztrnuN4-HeqM28OJkh95xASv0WC/s1600/P1040854.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5lUEJbWSI-8bUnZxZKmtUZf8sjfDWqbNNuye4ioHgPv8nvYFJm-tViPKCxDtYWRe72wQtyJ4lqiLjKXJbSFTKOlaYDCW8Q3bHiCqyYzRfVC8XHLkNUztrnuN4-HeqM28OJkh95xASv0WC/s1600/P1040854.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The number of cyclists on the road went down dramatically after Coyhaique, but still we met a few more. These two <i>gringos</i> were full of enthusiasm for the road ahead, even though they had had pouring rain in the last few days. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBqQQZdLaWsLhrzvMtcSpkf-Z_2aaAgfOZAnkUAa9DdMQugh5xt7MhI_xq04nV1estim0Ud1M-Jj8Xxv_SQ4WFDRrV091pNIZZ1bXVCGG5eEgKCHT3cPQrmpUY458gk22CxYp8OVrX62t_/s1600/P1040857.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBqQQZdLaWsLhrzvMtcSpkf-Z_2aaAgfOZAnkUAa9DdMQugh5xt7MhI_xq04nV1estim0Ud1M-Jj8Xxv_SQ4WFDRrV091pNIZZ1bXVCGG5eEgKCHT3cPQrmpUY458gk22CxYp8OVrX62t_/s1600/P1040857.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The dramatic scenery increased the further south we got..</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSL4n7mgpT4etWT9xwgPwqcDq1x0n2NwsXmh7wi5aaJ9psN4UqBOi2Q8PHaNnuv03Jb4jCwde_P5w1vB_YXKdO7OAqcoaHERKBqBsIOOhn3PqPl8dgOjpGb4Cj1n-2WjmCAI2YKBbw1aPk/s1600/IMG_3017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSL4n7mgpT4etWT9xwgPwqcDq1x0n2NwsXmh7wi5aaJ9psN4UqBOi2Q8PHaNnuv03Jb4jCwde_P5w1vB_YXKdO7OAqcoaHERKBqBsIOOhn3PqPl8dgOjpGb4Cj1n-2WjmCAI2YKBbw1aPk/s1600/IMG_3017.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">... especially as we join Lago General Carrera</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCheurWuxbdFHUh8FOigSdK1T0Q4qd20bbK3-fXd6g1d__xbCZ-0kU22Zb4vIFBsfDxu-zXVZf79WfIVi_ZqWWH8JtgxcBFHOO30K1ICi0Lv3PjicxtDz6Aoal7iQkI-UG1szbSqhQuiMj/s1600/P1040877.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCheurWuxbdFHUh8FOigSdK1T0Q4qd20bbK3-fXd6g1d__xbCZ-0kU22Zb4vIFBsfDxu-zXVZf79WfIVi_ZqWWH8JtgxcBFHOO30K1ICi0Lv3PjicxtDz6Aoal7iQkI-UG1szbSqhQuiMj/s1600/P1040877.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...the second largest lake in South America (we have already pedalled past the largest, Lake Titicaca).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaylZxSS7Bb-RZFQo5WuXxCjHk888uGW6LQL0qpVupRIAnnLdahCM5I9wrhcCwX2_DbqsrO_S3IsOKIS_2yjQpnvxEtMw3sKfZ7aTtJQwKgzU4_bFNZrKAhRJ3qShn6UL2HitL0_XRYQ8F/s1600/P1040883.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaylZxSS7Bb-RZFQo5WuXxCjHk888uGW6LQL0qpVupRIAnnLdahCM5I9wrhcCwX2_DbqsrO_S3IsOKIS_2yjQpnvxEtMw3sKfZ7aTtJQwKgzU4_bFNZrKAhRJ3qShn6UL2HitL0_XRYQ8F/s1600/P1040883.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Its waters shine turquoise even with quite a bit of clouds in the sky!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxMin-aV3llO6GVlPpmjdRWSEIsE_OiXoAyJz4U_rzgRF83ikQAHO21FkLAnJRnIqne_aLO3P4haF4A34ZZ-6SPFMiRtxigDapKJy_SuzzeDztRpW4EaVQzrTnS5SV9-fqYRzCNhyphenhyphenTA5_3/s1600/P1040878.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxMin-aV3llO6GVlPpmjdRWSEIsE_OiXoAyJz4U_rzgRF83ikQAHO21FkLAnJRnIqne_aLO3P4haF4A34ZZ-6SPFMiRtxigDapKJy_SuzzeDztRpW4EaVQzrTnS5SV9-fqYRzCNhyphenhyphenTA5_3/s1600/P1040878.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Getting closer to Puerto Rio Tranquilo we find more evidence of the local backlash against Douglas Tompkins, who has created several parks in the area. While an avid environmentalist, his way of dealing with locals has won him quite a bit of animosity. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBry1HcGxS-71ncy-PbaP3uhR2sG_KgNlth31JTOukmAoXhXFoF1a2s9wW1Izzl0nvC8HSvu2xYfAY4uc_ouag4VIOd-WX_1BW9lQ0eNaDWbRuX7bDj9NfmcSeOzyYuBQ_kC1l7N1hooP9/s1600/P1040886.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBry1HcGxS-71ncy-PbaP3uhR2sG_KgNlth31JTOukmAoXhXFoF1a2s9wW1Izzl0nvC8HSvu2xYfAY4uc_ouag4VIOd-WX_1BW9lQ0eNaDWbRuX7bDj9NfmcSeOzyYuBQ_kC1l7N1hooP9/s1600/P1040886.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We camp just outside of town under a gorgeous full moon.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgf__z7Cf5N1c6ZUjxXb0tZLySEWiaA7z2Y6a4Iw2HomBpwPr2By040mm7Jy2VXwok1VOFC1BNArpGAyU10zi6LvQll4Cb1IWzHWtxD_nJOXZwr2wNkMARmAHCjYxPwIza1XzrLfWpvZHr/s1600/P1040889.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgf__z7Cf5N1c6ZUjxXb0tZLySEWiaA7z2Y6a4Iw2HomBpwPr2By040mm7Jy2VXwok1VOFC1BNArpGAyU10zi6LvQll4Cb1IWzHWtxD_nJOXZwr2wNkMARmAHCjYxPwIza1XzrLfWpvZHr/s1600/P1040889.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the morning, we say goodbye to Martina and Lucas to take a side trip to the Valle Exploradores, passing the village's cemetery on the way out.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7tne2l1Y6Mh-dxN-jWTriCwoiZhfbaV98qndhgEs2SgwxMrtmxOju1WHFZU_mRhC0ykffO7waF77Yb8Y3HcTF7xwBrEHRepeqtJmANDola_2r3aYOJS8HH6P19ukNdSs5yxn3XiHAjllv/s1600/P1040901.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7tne2l1Y6Mh-dxN-jWTriCwoiZhfbaV98qndhgEs2SgwxMrtmxOju1WHFZU_mRhC0ykffO7waF77Yb8Y3HcTF7xwBrEHRepeqtJmANDola_2r3aYOJS8HH6P19ukNdSs5yxn3XiHAjllv/s1600/P1040901.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Although we might normally shy away from an out-and-back route like this, a few different locals told us it was one of the most beautiful roads in the area, so we just had to check it out.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTmbI7dmcG1x3AphNTa0eL0SxkZATkVqDbuDXCjkzlRJVyq4aziHWV5j0cKoJ-7XRJo-w6RpiTmMf6vLHEvmRy0S46whUEzbNEo6xPPkVtqkfYIuGzPAElKxe3aDBvIjf_qK4PIeISf5ke/s1600/P1040903.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTmbI7dmcG1x3AphNTa0eL0SxkZATkVqDbuDXCjkzlRJVyq4aziHWV5j0cKoJ-7XRJo-w6RpiTmMf6vLHEvmRy0S46whUEzbNEo6xPPkVtqkfYIuGzPAElKxe3aDBvIjf_qK4PIeISf5ke/s1600/P1040903.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It certainly was impressive, with a new glaciar appearing at every bend in the road.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEtlpyKfkAGiiTNw-gR-aYYkk6_9eoAbnKU4lyy_kSTFbljMtTTC002Vb4AhMd7TdZAhFkiONMtZ3XykuPOd-nYlnNR9vAzMSywmr5b40UXjFZyTxKiky2_DuwdhBlZy0_Fsn5-nfFL2sC/s1600/P1040906.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEtlpyKfkAGiiTNw-gR-aYYkk6_9eoAbnKU4lyy_kSTFbljMtTTC002Vb4AhMd7TdZAhFkiONMtZ3XykuPOd-nYlnNR9vAzMSywmr5b40UXjFZyTxKiky2_DuwdhBlZy0_Fsn5-nfFL2sC/s1600/P1040906.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coupled with almost zero traffic and pretty respectable ripio quality, we were in heaven.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL-1e9P7alqHuxdL6azCoimda7YNivQaeSPnllQGrbYLvNUItllWFt_xwzt4DD8Fh35AFVAaS2MO6H9SXgIIy9h2yMinDMJTvuwu2A13faSuUAzd6_Bg72a123WPu6_1b3PZNJUn4CkmI/s1600/P1040938.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL-1e9P7alqHuxdL6azCoimda7YNivQaeSPnllQGrbYLvNUItllWFt_xwzt4DD8Fh35AFVAaS2MO6H9SXgIIy9h2yMinDMJTvuwu2A13faSuUAzd6_Bg72a123WPu6_1b3PZNJUn4CkmI/s1600/P1040938.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the afternoon, the skies opened up in a cold, drenching rain. We backtracked one kilometer to a roadside shack we had passed and pitched our tent nearby, grateful for the covered area to cook under. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPtmVn3Um7JzbWUXK6PQxvlxr-85z_tNk6Jgr4EMfFCOl191hm_CLDSVoxAySoDXJoI1rg5w8Bm5PnKrsNht_UK42Ogtq6arbgdwSG_BIpCQp7lUfWYrAgj6EdIzOI9gH_iz0rlMoCG8HN/s1600/P1040941.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPtmVn3Um7JzbWUXK6PQxvlxr-85z_tNk6Jgr4EMfFCOl191hm_CLDSVoxAySoDXJoI1rg5w8Bm5PnKrsNht_UK42Ogtq6arbgdwSG_BIpCQp7lUfWYrAgj6EdIzOI9gH_iz0rlMoCG8HN/s1600/P1040941.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the morning, we finish the few kilometers to the Glaciar Exploradores lookout under gray but thankfully dry skies.</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaylZxSS7Bb-RZFQo5WuXxCjHk888uGW6LQL0qpVupRIAnnLdahCM5I9wrhcCwX2_DbqsrO_S3IsOKIS_2yjQpnvxEtMw3sKfZ7aTtJQwKgzU4_bFNZrKAhRJ3qShn6UL2HitL0_XRYQ8F/s1600/P1040883.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3z3QOyGBNfejygC5_5i-tW6D_s5ghduAiyen-QnqYD3i6F_mK-doHa2oDmWgYxcyIBMDs-9evyVK9QwHiFXy7Gr-Xf90bL4oA0X11ZB2U_aMG0gYXh_-ajNV4rfNbw-BEpqsgPfm2_xyZ/s1600/P1040946.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3z3QOyGBNfejygC5_5i-tW6D_s5ghduAiyen-QnqYD3i6F_mK-doHa2oDmWgYxcyIBMDs-9evyVK9QwHiFXy7Gr-Xf90bL4oA0X11ZB2U_aMG0gYXh_-ajNV4rfNbw-BEpqsgPfm2_xyZ/s1600/P1040946.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's a short 15 minute walk to the viewpoint for the glaciar, an impressive sight even in such low visibility.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn6eoDhE7MXm3Mq4ObNL8ptB3WyDSLPo6Se0sm4McB_MSTyMC-G89LxEDJh83N0KKyxsVsO9gQzr_68fsYNFUrMYx-v8352BiNmTi8d67K5OaIyFd0v3NK42DUb_hMRFgOmPBRWdy-l12E/s1600/P1040953.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn6eoDhE7MXm3Mq4ObNL8ptB3WyDSLPo6Se0sm4McB_MSTyMC-G89LxEDJh83N0KKyxsVsO9gQzr_68fsYNFUrMYx-v8352BiNmTi8d67K5OaIyFd0v3NK42DUb_hMRFgOmPBRWdy-l12E/s1600/P1040953.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As always, riding the same road in the opposite direction feels like a totally different road altogether. On our way back the sun made a brief appearance, lifting our moods and making us scramble for the camera. </td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaylZxSS7Bb-RZFQo5WuXxCjHk888uGW6LQL0qpVupRIAnnLdahCM5I9wrhcCwX2_DbqsrO_S3IsOKIS_2yjQpnvxEtMw3sKfZ7aTtJQwKgzU4_bFNZrKAhRJ3qShn6UL2HitL0_XRYQ8F/s1600/P1040883.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7KhaBqJzklEFlYl3WMh9pAlvPEQHxn1JyN58GGTWqs-U9HI6EuB_U8lRZGhHpcIxcwfXsHhIOsUytF7kiB2kVsAcAucHgzdg8zie_pJWSHZ2t8QcbMj4tsQq8D2U6wvl7Kg8QS2ms-BkB/s1600/IMG_3001.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7KhaBqJzklEFlYl3WMh9pAlvPEQHxn1JyN58GGTWqs-U9HI6EuB_U8lRZGhHpcIxcwfXsHhIOsUytF7kiB2kVsAcAucHgzdg8zie_pJWSHZ2t8QcbMj4tsQq8D2U6wvl7Kg8QS2ms-BkB/s1600/IMG_3001.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We just can't get enough of the glaciar views</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaylZxSS7Bb-RZFQo5WuXxCjHk888uGW6LQL0qpVupRIAnnLdahCM5I9wrhcCwX2_DbqsrO_S3IsOKIS_2yjQpnvxEtMw3sKfZ7aTtJQwKgzU4_bFNZrKAhRJ3qShn6UL2HitL0_XRYQ8F/s1600/P1040883.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoheVwCkBC7mnMrgCaRnUNl6sDS8LNwjlPxrjxkr1kJTd1t5MhU_73dvJ0ymB8BKVehyphenhyphenlmrZ_mpbxaRi6bqQFw8BlBgCFjJe8rZyHhNLAZhh9qkjVy2v52VWviB_Pcqo1RMPDCcftRqZP0/s1600/P1040963.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoheVwCkBC7mnMrgCaRnUNl6sDS8LNwjlPxrjxkr1kJTd1t5MhU_73dvJ0ymB8BKVehyphenhyphenlmrZ_mpbxaRi6bqQFw8BlBgCFjJe8rZyHhNLAZhh9qkjVy2v52VWviB_Pcqo1RMPDCcftRqZP0/s1600/P1040963.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And the beautiful green lakes</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaylZxSS7Bb-RZFQo5WuXxCjHk888uGW6LQL0qpVupRIAnnLdahCM5I9wrhcCwX2_DbqsrO_S3IsOKIS_2yjQpnvxEtMw3sKfZ7aTtJQwKgzU4_bFNZrKAhRJ3qShn6UL2HitL0_XRYQ8F/s1600/P1040883.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMJgrH4ZXC5KzWjKgIKhsICOGJFIp0t0SuYzKc8rAAwVUSZm8YhJFj5BOtawypgrOjQNaCbtxi4X4huoh6A1CrhkykDxkD_aZovpNI6458IuIq7IpXuQTDkbkwJ2MoXUqt_V6xFw_pA_IU/s1600/P1050001.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMJgrH4ZXC5KzWjKgIKhsICOGJFIp0t0SuYzKc8rAAwVUSZm8YhJFj5BOtawypgrOjQNaCbtxi4X4huoh6A1CrhkykDxkD_aZovpNI6458IuIq7IpXuQTDkbkwJ2MoXUqt_V6xFw_pA_IU/s1600/P1050001.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The next day, we ride to Fred and Tomoko's house, friends of a friend of Lucy's mom who live on the Austral. We spend a few days resting in their amazingly comfortable cabin, eating delicious food and learning about life in this part of the world.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUwIeGJHcxRUYH3Lon_FiSC2DsaARlHFUqPTuPpbd200el50M_ptywL1bxzvAVFFUeIuk8HDuRzBTRvSzpRM13lXdaGNag8y5ykwn9KL_aGm1wfsT0y4D_PYInZqTp2SANnbeBx-GPGwqU/s1600/P1050012.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUwIeGJHcxRUYH3Lon_FiSC2DsaARlHFUqPTuPpbd200el50M_ptywL1bxzvAVFFUeIuk8HDuRzBTRvSzpRM13lXdaGNag8y5ykwn9KL_aGm1wfsT0y4D_PYInZqTp2SANnbeBx-GPGwqU/s1600/P1050012.JPG" height="480" width="640" /> </a></td><td style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But before long, it's time to head off again, helped by the delicious local cheese and homemade bread and corn muffins we are sent off with.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjor0AXartC2npTnjl5epOwzebE6HAOmSv1qReNYKRRuAenVMT90zKEYOJrd3DpMThD0g2wN-SU59YFt-PqwY4cOHOvlH_31uF5o84Fam9xQ77TsggYNgdHsQeFWv0wJO1kZKI0Ta3ZyVv4/s1600/P1050013.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjor0AXartC2npTnjl5epOwzebE6HAOmSv1qReNYKRRuAenVMT90zKEYOJrd3DpMThD0g2wN-SU59YFt-PqwY4cOHOvlH_31uF5o84Fam9xQ77TsggYNgdHsQeFWv0wJO1kZKI0Ta3ZyVv4/s1600/P1050013.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This section of the Austral is never far from a beautful lake or river.</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaylZxSS7Bb-RZFQo5WuXxCjHk888uGW6LQL0qpVupRIAnnLdahCM5I9wrhcCwX2_DbqsrO_S3IsOKIS_2yjQpnvxEtMw3sKfZ7aTtJQwKgzU4_bFNZrKAhRJ3qShn6UL2HitL0_XRYQ8F/s1600/P1040883.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9dFGKjhvi6py5fwJpiKGwCm31gvE4ugtY1DhZ3wY42uVRGL6xilUXDI07I-pdEk978nrrliq0fCO6hJ2Vj81iHYv8EtwDuzw0IwI377oH928O57is7vbJeGJs1AzuGXTMhWqXVz2j4ZVp/s1600/P1050021.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9dFGKjhvi6py5fwJpiKGwCm31gvE4ugtY1DhZ3wY42uVRGL6xilUXDI07I-pdEk978nrrliq0fCO6hJ2Vj81iHYv8EtwDuzw0IwI377oH928O57is7vbJeGJs1AzuGXTMhWqXVz2j4ZVp/s1600/P1050021.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We camp by the Rio Baker, Chile's biggest river, and Alberto has a go with his newly purchased fishing rod from Coyhaique. Spoiler alert - he doesn't catch anything.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF6kYlSjp70V4iUvof_b_SJ_et6oh50FtTi9X-N8VnTiKOU88FiQzGU1N8Q19obHcwPXl26siDg7PlXYP9PT-AYMQOw_-nXLDfEMpdJ93XymsF62qOnpNQzIdZNOJdqTQaGrGb1VgAIIA/s1600/P1050026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF6kYlSjp70V4iUvof_b_SJ_et6oh50FtTi9X-N8VnTiKOU88FiQzGU1N8Q19obHcwPXl26siDg7PlXYP9PT-AYMQOw_-nXLDfEMpdJ93XymsF62qOnpNQzIdZNOJdqTQaGrGb1VgAIIA/s1600/P1050026.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The next day, we arrive in Cochrane, the second biggest town on the Austral, which with around 3,000 people feels like a big metropolis to us.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNlFDG3QJxQO1cD-hEiTHBF9BSmgPWLeKEhQbqENukRd44Jix2lg-g00xm3eqQjSSAtniyJNs2MXvQ-nfNbcaGNyQvfxHS4zQS3bQBTRIFjAzC5-glA88ujouryXsOeUNBLaFF-HuC2H2q/s1600/P1050031.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNlFDG3QJxQO1cD-hEiTHBF9BSmgPWLeKEhQbqENukRd44Jix2lg-g00xm3eqQjSSAtniyJNs2MXvQ-nfNbcaGNyQvfxHS4zQS3bQBTRIFjAzC5-glA88ujouryXsOeUNBLaFF-HuC2H2q/s1600/P1050031.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In Cochrane, Alvaro, from Vittoria (Spanish Basque Country) catches up to us, and we ride on South with him. A tip off from an unknown cyclist on an email chain takes us on a two minute diversion to see this impressive waterfall south of Cochrane.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaylZxSS7Bb-RZFQo5WuXxCjHk888uGW6LQL0qpVupRIAnnLdahCM5I9wrhcCwX2_DbqsrO_S3IsOKIS_2yjQpnvxEtMw3sKfZ7aTtJQwKgzU4_bFNZrKAhRJ3qShn6UL2HitL0_XRYQ8F/s1600/P1040883.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWJKARXcSLgD6aky5jVf6y2m6Uyc32R1-TpWigRKwLgs7Dijv34p2O8tmPikkkNEV-WbMfxfndBHcDGRa-gRdUQgl4RIryrYkAivrDBXdOmc0oIR_i-KiIW_2xy-lynhlU-t7zSSep_i4k/s1600/IMG_3024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWJKARXcSLgD6aky5jVf6y2m6Uyc32R1-TpWigRKwLgs7Dijv34p2O8tmPikkkNEV-WbMfxfndBHcDGRa-gRdUQgl4RIryrYkAivrDBXdOmc0oIR_i-KiIW_2xy-lynhlU-t7zSSep_i4k/s1600/IMG_3024.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We
camp by a river with a French family headed in the opposite direction. A
three year old and an eight year old on a six month cycle tour, and both girls might we add -- what
an inspiration!<br />
<br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The next few days are filled with green trees...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaWgGL7S1LtzkADBcQOCpeN6Xy93y7ui6p_Abd1wn_WbKk6a1cujwZzVi6RdYchvZsPdqFGKHPf_SCD6ILxE0m-utF-vzkf4d1HBRqhbR7yc5AlrcQvS-DgJf21ESuIS17BTnXUC4FqvPP/s1600/P1050057.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaWgGL7S1LtzkADBcQOCpeN6Xy93y7ui6p_Abd1wn_WbKk6a1cujwZzVi6RdYchvZsPdqFGKHPf_SCD6ILxE0m-utF-vzkf4d1HBRqhbR7yc5AlrcQvS-DgJf21ESuIS17BTnXUC4FqvPP/s1600/P1050057.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...snowy mountain peaks...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7EjPxsv4fUSiO3_0uVgUfS0U-sA2r9ceedtc7otX0ArwX87NqzfBIfe0e06Cq8Fo08WjQtimaVcs9ft6DITA5_i4wEhyphenhyphenPLd7f5f_rkX_YFWk_olFviY9UO4pft7G0WEUZlO9XkgKWoAG-/s1600/P1050068.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7EjPxsv4fUSiO3_0uVgUfS0U-sA2r9ceedtc7otX0ArwX87NqzfBIfe0e06Cq8Fo08WjQtimaVcs9ft6DITA5_i4wEhyphenhyphenPLd7f5f_rkX_YFWk_olFviY9UO4pft7G0WEUZlO9XkgKWoAG-/s1600/P1050068.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and quiet roads...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyKFhTfkTlT3C6gz9y98t5S0yi99BVHfyuE8RLIubo5SyYYZ1QXLVXeGypRKVWyRVVBM5g_3Tqr2hIOJ0IrbmZd3_EiIBdgIDIwNk3vdxdnkYN3inCV1_oAXvT3O_oUFY4eRlOY1y4NS4_/s1600/IMG_3030.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyKFhTfkTlT3C6gz9y98t5S0yi99BVHfyuE8RLIubo5SyYYZ1QXLVXeGypRKVWyRVVBM5g_3Tqr2hIOJ0IrbmZd3_EiIBdgIDIwNk3vdxdnkYN3inCV1_oAXvT3O_oUFY4eRlOY1y4NS4_/s1600/IMG_3030.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">..not to mention great camp spots.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3GK171rXultSzoaaR6P_Srf0YSmLoe0SWhw914Mn9W5L8jgQZkYVZXI_VOO0cZu5-Ue39icu4sULopCFEqR835aGpgUWZ8Oq6MAbw1ifvM86ChwMQ47qAsV4_sGWEmWop4MDlpl0B-5wt/s1600/P1050066.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3GK171rXultSzoaaR6P_Srf0YSmLoe0SWhw914Mn9W5L8jgQZkYVZXI_VOO0cZu5-Ue39icu4sULopCFEqR835aGpgUWZ8Oq6MAbw1ifvM86ChwMQ47qAsV4_sGWEmWop4MDlpl0B-5wt/s1600/P1050066.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Knowing that we have a five day stretch from Cochrane to Villa O'Higgins
without supplies, we take advantage of the Austral's many fire pits to
cook with, saving fuel.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPeEOOIprsiZDUaP-FHCEN17Jp6loxTdKtMGEm00zfDrytMiVMvXCUGVXjNUOI2VmgUON7FFUzux4d1-OaJdaxiWzksrKwIqMWmA91dIfo_ucXVqnFOdQOLDAlRmOpTJ0GNsnZfi29VipI/s1600/P1050049.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPeEOOIprsiZDUaP-FHCEN17Jp6loxTdKtMGEm00zfDrytMiVMvXCUGVXjNUOI2VmgUON7FFUzux4d1-OaJdaxiWzksrKwIqMWmA91dIfo_ucXVqnFOdQOLDAlRmOpTJ0GNsnZfi29VipI/s1600/P1050049.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It also keeps us warm and toasty as we chat into the night.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqAb2YbmfrjVXYn0CUTVrmuy_oIP0zQ8u711wfya2o9UWbYkPzsLqDE9x87kS-oI4s8djrmHfIVCHW_XgoxYFJm-UMO0-YdYAR1bIHF8mibL2Oflx_p1Df9V4DDv754tj94kHLomxnN_kO/s1600/P1050081.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqAb2YbmfrjVXYn0CUTVrmuy_oIP0zQ8u711wfya2o9UWbYkPzsLqDE9x87kS-oI4s8djrmHfIVCHW_XgoxYFJm-UMO0-YdYAR1bIHF8mibL2Oflx_p1Df9V4DDv754tj94kHLomxnN_kO/s1600/P1050081.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The dreaded rain of the Austral finally arrives just in time for our climb up and over to Puerto Yungay. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiLOjZNj7XWD_twsws3RANcCYHEzdvaS1wac1UpEm5CRfvlCifmqBbGMFirhQl0S992iFhVagY8FUUyDjQ0UVj2ZmICekSoCZGJBaS-D8uHb1mH2n0vdONd-yOAKUeQY19mR4AzMlSE8k3/s1600/P1050088.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiLOjZNj7XWD_twsws3RANcCYHEzdvaS1wac1UpEm5CRfvlCifmqBbGMFirhQl0S992iFhVagY8FUUyDjQ0UVj2ZmICekSoCZGJBaS-D8uHb1mH2n0vdONd-yOAKUeQY19mR4AzMlSE8k3/s1600/P1050088.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...where luckily, we are able to take refuge for the night in the waiting room of the free ferry we need to catch the following morning to continue on the Austral. Here, bikepacking Brits Mackenzie and Laura catch up to us too.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0251dObOL4_IOD-7tDVCMtFwTfl5iOL5fk74b_vFGdDZR9J2G_lAFUrWIwMXuNTXFUK_ymS3aqT_c1vt81t6KPpHH6GCwRtAZPoHgEmwMMRQkYwDCGK4Rp4Oe_tUB4FxUpqxzgDZ-u6c/s1600/P1050089.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0251dObOL4_IOD-7tDVCMtFwTfl5iOL5fk74b_vFGdDZR9J2G_lAFUrWIwMXuNTXFUK_ymS3aqT_c1vt81t6KPpHH6GCwRtAZPoHgEmwMMRQkYwDCGK4Rp4Oe_tUB4FxUpqxzgDZ-u6c/s1600/P1050089.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As the ferry pulls away from the dock in the rain, three brightly colored blobs on bicycles come speeding down the hill. Amazingly, the captain actually turns the boat back to pick them up! We can't really imagine that happening in Europe!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNEJhw6OLJVti_qpOeF006R7uez6mUt2g4wTVgpPaL0iSRVkghDBDcxZOibxPMN0unnALyWKpoFvep-8K80s8onDkoFNAwdrcnB8htCqfq-PrwtaIw162gnOJDzNDacdiPooQHnFIc9_83/s1600/P1050101.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNEJhw6OLJVti_qpOeF006R7uez6mUt2g4wTVgpPaL0iSRVkghDBDcxZOibxPMN0unnALyWKpoFvep-8K80s8onDkoFNAwdrcnB8htCqfq-PrwtaIw162gnOJDzNDacdiPooQHnFIc9_83/s1600/P1050101.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The weather is pretty miserable the next day, so we are very excited when in the early afternoon we arrive to the next refugio, not visible from the road but marked by a handy bicycle tire and drawing.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJdKYMFo7l36g7pbjNzi-Fi7vfyY5cI2YmzU3GGvjfLAgG2_dL3UaSEGPu_3IRKu-F1KY-qkhyphenhyphenTj7k9nyzYrvqhGnoRwlrBxzfJ0A8cW9MnyVL5J-uA3yfRoSAWQUBTlbRbHxUTvxGZS4t/s1600/P1050108.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJdKYMFo7l36g7pbjNzi-Fi7vfyY5cI2YmzU3GGvjfLAgG2_dL3UaSEGPu_3IRKu-F1KY-qkhyphenhyphenTj7k9nyzYrvqhGnoRwlrBxzfJ0A8cW9MnyVL5J-uA3yfRoSAWQUBTlbRbHxUTvxGZS4t/s1600/P1050108.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With eight of us heading south and six heading north converging in the refugio that night...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPkHMXJb0mdbfhpZFOplokxnHCe2GB5BNyNjECs-fDxM_EO7vhv_ZZXh-11Eb_xsHV35ddMyn1j4kTAtXEBcTQgH5HSowu60SDKS2uuoW059ZunBKtG4O9O9m9JVaa8lcE5ghaNqHLGlg/s1600/P1050110.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPkHMXJb0mdbfhpZFOplokxnHCe2GB5BNyNjECs-fDxM_EO7vhv_ZZXh-11Eb_xsHV35ddMyn1j4kTAtXEBcTQgH5HSowu60SDKS2uuoW059ZunBKtG4O9O9m9JVaa8lcE5ghaNqHLGlg/s1600/P1050110.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">..the area around the refugio turns into somewhat of a basecamp, which turns out not to be ideal as high winds overnight lead to one broken tent pole (not ours thankfully, although Alberto did have to get out of the tent at 3am to re-peg the guy-lines as they had all come free).</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFK8Jj8h6FuRNvg658ROXTZMlIc4GJc7vI31UUKGp9akrkKTkruLSlh1OJHbJtPF4xKXlp5DRWg-uhViva2TJ3dr9iYs2e_VDJicMjimqwnV2MxJyv-1Rx-HHfjgRi5LvZkv-apN20XBs/s1600/P1050103.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFK8Jj8h6FuRNvg658ROXTZMlIc4GJc7vI31UUKGp9akrkKTkruLSlh1OJHbJtPF4xKXlp5DRWg-uhViva2TJ3dr9iYs2e_VDJicMjimqwnV2MxJyv-1Rx-HHfjgRi5LvZkv-apN20XBs/s1600/P1050103.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At least there was somewhere warm to sit, cook, and most importantly dry the shoes and socks of fourteen cyclists.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwOXmW7njqAt_-u0pnCaEb3pizCztQrxAIuVfeZ9i2tVjd05tk_suX_LKSNJ38LKWrrfiMjXt1-Gu4fqoYnJgndgJZG2aIJKTC2ffiRLl2zNF9iB_NziO1KhMBlkvSRu1Ds3hagdbkkvZ9/s1600/P1050116.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwOXmW7njqAt_-u0pnCaEb3pizCztQrxAIuVfeZ9i2tVjd05tk_suX_LKSNJ38LKWrrfiMjXt1-Gu4fqoYnJgndgJZG2aIJKTC2ffiRLl2zNF9iB_NziO1KhMBlkvSRu1Ds3hagdbkkvZ9/s1600/P1050116.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's still raining and windy the next day, but we know we only have about 50km to Villa O'Higgins and the end of the Carretera Austral so we push on in high spirits regardless</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAZSTp9X1kGAynJAtAte4XL0PdFUBl-1HyzJ4O4Ih1E8r11RrNPPajhgf6dwijY89tHecPBHN3qThSUPYl6ppo90jit5bQZ01UPug6_BudDMwtmOikLGadU1Z3qQN_jCX_i6FR-1AiIN8N/s1600/P1050120.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAZSTp9X1kGAynJAtAte4XL0PdFUBl-1HyzJ4O4Ih1E8r11RrNPPajhgf6dwijY89tHecPBHN3qThSUPYl6ppo90jit5bQZ01UPug6_BudDMwtmOikLGadU1Z3qQN_jCX_i6FR-1AiIN8N/s1600/P1050120.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...leapfrogging with other cyclists throughout the day.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9I5VtWDeHhyphenhyphenJnOts5G7hKWyXIUqu6UTL5NM64sgIMHqn6EC47q5qmwOh2WahpXCe35JA598I0mHkY3Fkc7NBMHo9DLweu-EPhNAA-nw_N6WFn5JfZVByIRA9DPf4c8yCuG_YyrFDnD7QL/s1600/IMG_3043.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9I5VtWDeHhyphenhyphenJnOts5G7hKWyXIUqu6UTL5NM64sgIMHqn6EC47q5qmwOh2WahpXCe35JA598I0mHkY3Fkc7NBMHo9DLweu-EPhNAA-nw_N6WFn5JfZVByIRA9DPf4c8yCuG_YyrFDnD7QL/s1600/IMG_3043.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As we approach Villa O'Higgins, the weather clears a bit giving us a great celebratory rainbow to say goodbye to the Carretera Austral</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuHjEh5AXPPNm21mG9QWL8dlPa_Wz6CG8Wxui9qILGOXbgC3YyFTDVAU0JanGbT19mcoFx3Tz8FajpCV-fX06L1ARuoLHEYkkq1-oPXsLxjrzFCWhKRYl7OyDbb8yljbV4Vwox9vvt0I-D/s1600/P1050128.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuHjEh5AXPPNm21mG9QWL8dlPa_Wz6CG8Wxui9qILGOXbgC3YyFTDVAU0JanGbT19mcoFx3Tz8FajpCV-fX06L1ARuoLHEYkkq1-oPXsLxjrzFCWhKRYl7OyDbb8yljbV4Vwox9vvt0I-D/s1600/P1050128.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And in Villa O'Higgins, the band is out to welcome us to town!</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Route notes:<br />
We won't go into too much detail as again, there is plenty of information available.<br />
<br />
Valle Exploradores:<br />
The road is only about five years old so not much information is available, but we highly recommend this beautiful side trip. The path to the Glaciar Exploradores viewpoint is located at km 52 which is comfortably achievable in a day's ride from Puerto Rio Tranquilo. There is a park ranger station there (water available) and technically the viewpoint path (about 20 minutes walking) has a fee of CHP 3500 per person. We were curious about continuing all the way to Bahia Exploradores but were told that there is an unfinished bridge further down the road, but it might be possible for the man who lives by the crossing to take a person and bike across in his boat (for a fee) - we didn't try.<br />
<br />
Refugios:<br />
- In Puerto Yungay it is possible to sleep in the ferry waiting room, which has electricity but no bathrooms. On the other side of the fjord the waiting room has bathrooms but no electricity.<br />
<br />
- The refugio with the bike tire marking the entrance is located 47km from the ferry terminal. There is a second identical refugio clearly visible from the road 21km further on. Albertohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15789158563391048740noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-7458715134372552182015-04-10T04:22:00.002+01:002015-04-10T04:22:37.843+01:00Chaiten to Coyhaique: Riding the Carretera Austral (part 1)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After our stint on the Island of Chiloé it was time to join the famous <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carretera_Austral">Carretera Austral</a>. It´s sort of a to-do ride if you are cycle touring in the Andes of South America, linking previously isolated communities with a (mostly) dirt road which sweeps past some of Chile´s most impressive lakes, rivers, and mountains. </div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
As much as we love Argentina, Chile has so far offered much better cycling, or rather, the kind of cycling we know we enjoy. Some may argue that the Austral is no longer what it used to be: remote, authentic, and wild. And sure, in recent years it has become busier with all sorts of tourism, including short-term cycle tourists and plenty of hitchhiking backpackers. Wild it is not either, as much of the carretera is either fenced, farmed or both. The further you ride on the Austral, the more remote it feels though, and we certainly never felt it was anything but authentic. The ripio is also of excellent quality by Chilean standards, and as you progress South, the scenery stunning. </div>
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Riding the Austral was a unique experience and one we were glad to be able to have enjoyed. As probably the most famous road for cycle touring in South America, it is a social event, even if like us you do it late in the season. Every day we waved and talked to many cyclists, and nearly every town had an area where free camping was tolerated. The terrain was not at all challenging, with a few hills but nothing to plan your day around, and in general we found it a relaxing and pleasant ride. Of course, it helped that the famous rains of the Austral did not make much of an appearance!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWQVGZ4bZilSBKxKlHdW_tNQVA-ge4Xtz0Og7L0IdiWEA8ye6hOjVY6T84r4aEy4nD8VppdjGpu9Dt7kO6mpfHrvJZOtnxDaqZ4NBFM5AnuGwO0XDn3z5_O8BJuS6AD6QKL0kwaX4Sd8s/s1600/P1040550.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWQVGZ4bZilSBKxKlHdW_tNQVA-ge4Xtz0Og7L0IdiWEA8ye6hOjVY6T84r4aEy4nD8VppdjGpu9Dt7kO6mpfHrvJZOtnxDaqZ4NBFM5AnuGwO0XDn3z5_O8BJuS6AD6QKL0kwaX4Sd8s/s1600/P1040550.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A 5 hours ferry ride and we arrive in El Chaitén, where we settled down for the night</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc7k5Hga4u4jinn7PT6fNQJBgNf_VcNKpj6uJeUhi85VcZo9HB4iLebCoajGFlV0rzTQJKykTuY4p7Ie6F6oFN3EbXRjPNzas3lfEDJFGFKUQsIH6j1OFEgfsgRevJqHB8ek1hc4t5GTZH/s1600/P1040555.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc7k5Hga4u4jinn7PT6fNQJBgNf_VcNKpj6uJeUhi85VcZo9HB4iLebCoajGFlV0rzTQJKykTuY4p7Ie6F6oFN3EbXRjPNzas3lfEDJFGFKUQsIH6j1OFEgfsgRevJqHB8ek1hc4t5GTZH/s1600/P1040555.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Riding on the Austral we really feel we have reached Patagonia.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIr9DpKhrxzHIYkIwbJbsHJb8K6p-yWFKi-jd_GIDenln2BGN0FqhXp4Kq_a4Q_fdad5dPAQCLb9sNfHr5qFuwfi_DXuo0eWr1oSMzzjxQPlK3GNk4eliw79Qoo0dHUTFUUe8BwwnBYjG-/s1600/P1040566.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIr9DpKhrxzHIYkIwbJbsHJb8K6p-yWFKi-jd_GIDenln2BGN0FqhXp4Kq_a4Q_fdad5dPAQCLb9sNfHr5qFuwfi_DXuo0eWr1oSMzzjxQPlK3GNk4eliw79Qoo0dHUTFUUe8BwwnBYjG-/s1600/P1040566.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;"> We pedal briefly North instead of South for a hike up the Volcan Chaiten, now a part of the controversial Pumalin National Park (owned by <i>gringo</i> Douglas Tompkins) which erupted in 2008 leaving a crater which you can now easily access in a day hike. <br /></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSWalY3D7RdsJM_4mJWa83h9CSsKvAL1LULFnq3PQvKYEvq0af7hVsNrSZtiCfsJ1ha6ojj9LkZ4mmjqzQ34AydMX-wccy67r3HdXMS75kmxy-zw6ATaeC1Ufpo84j1NZtM1U9S-9aOD96/s1600/P1040569.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSWalY3D7RdsJM_4mJWa83h9CSsKvAL1LULFnq3PQvKYEvq0af7hVsNrSZtiCfsJ1ha6ojj9LkZ4mmjqzQ34AydMX-wccy67r3HdXMS75kmxy-zw6ATaeC1Ufpo84j1NZtM1U9S-9aOD96/s1600/P1040569.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We are joined by Martina and Lucas, an Italian-Spanish couple cycling from Santiago, who would be our great <i>compañeros</i> for almost the whole Austral. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFzVmFsnip3eiVa0qjaOEMKSBgIhqwnlN3CUDzJJ7gzSy_n0QM5nOW7NZ0v_Zm0nMhzJfMguJz8xlEl63O5mSZTs89icCczIpsfS3NgWAQJpUcTWX7grv3qlbR06_9PtqlfCuZA7Lmp9M/s1600/P1040575.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFzVmFsnip3eiVa0qjaOEMKSBgIhqwnlN3CUDzJJ7gzSy_n0QM5nOW7NZ0v_Zm0nMhzJfMguJz8xlEl63O5mSZTs89icCczIpsfS3NgWAQJpUcTWX7grv3qlbR06_9PtqlfCuZA7Lmp9M/s1600/P1040575.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">On our way back South, we camp by the beach in Santa Barbara, enjoying a great Pacific sunset.</span><br />
<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN6cdJc1mkOYoK5bayhkDQVLFs6QMFmrV78CrO_7i1N2u77l8LOU_3F2S_ahqkrLxsunHmL6UF5O3UXJqAdMahVoXsDpMAYIyN7L9BpdBoiEkA8jaO8-NY5nntL-invcx6yFNspwO0khm9/s1600/P1040579.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN6cdJc1mkOYoK5bayhkDQVLFs6QMFmrV78CrO_7i1N2u77l8LOU_3F2S_ahqkrLxsunHmL6UF5O3UXJqAdMahVoXsDpMAYIyN7L9BpdBoiEkA8jaO8-NY5nntL-invcx6yFNspwO0khm9/s1600/P1040579.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a><br /><span style="font-size: x-small;">After doubling back through Chaiten on our way South now, our stint on the Austral is finally truly underway.</span><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8WRffptCQbftwwKOf6My5_qNjY6BAa3TD8yrdcUQDwV6UK7tagoY0x4p1pZvbWOaTuruSkWma4Ip2igokgpZvG2bgpHvvhq7SpHV_FfeeoNPT4RkBHyW-dxbQowlEpNXlerCkNwDGDUBv/s1600/P1040593.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8WRffptCQbftwwKOf6My5_qNjY6BAa3TD8yrdcUQDwV6UK7tagoY0x4p1pZvbWOaTuruSkWma4Ip2igokgpZvG2bgpHvvhq7SpHV_FfeeoNPT4RkBHyW-dxbQowlEpNXlerCkNwDGDUBv/s1600/P1040593.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More and more sections of the Austral are being paved, but the nice views remain.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKnUFSveO8edei57di592kCLeUR1OYhv5OSKrpoHS1iq7ExZ4gWwKj3LIo7LErbH51buHTr8z4EjwB1AEZt0yijtOgJv9HDbFS4mAntSBe92xQ_s_jiaWvUxKopobGp0UFj41Pw2gTorc4/s1600/P1040718.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKnUFSveO8edei57di592kCLeUR1OYhv5OSKrpoHS1iq7ExZ4gWwKj3LIo7LErbH51buHTr8z4EjwB1AEZt0yijtOgJv9HDbFS4mAntSBe92xQ_s_jiaWvUxKopobGp0UFj41Pw2gTorc4/s1600/P1040718.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Although we do generally prefer dirt, quiet pavement can make for quite an enjoyable ride as well.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv-mP3L2ssUAXy6S7vJ978VqqTsn-2m3J43NDxExu6pfib7ctxRXXFxW7hFcemKYFEUc5NSbWTSZkFkuhJUruBvtZYk-VTs4XKkbVihXNg6xLFboCwP317J1iX8e_ijHHfqka2Y52ZzGgf/s1600/P1040626.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv-mP3L2ssUAXy6S7vJ978VqqTsn-2m3J43NDxExu6pfib7ctxRXXFxW7hFcemKYFEUc5NSbWTSZkFkuhJUruBvtZYk-VTs4XKkbVihXNg6xLFboCwP317J1iX8e_ijHHfqka2Y52ZzGgf/s1600/P1040626.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Passing through towns everyday it is easy to get creative with the camp cooking. We cook up all kinds of dishes like this potato stew. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikOWFOoNcqK_fVrwVm1te4pygO4DYZmqYveY7FwXaRelmmcPltZZmFCQhaXbYoKJ1OIy7NLSd3U09UXJ4VGus7wKRC_TlOXcVK4AWgu1FKBBx-kp859ANIqZGenV9p3x0L8B5MwicxPw4h/s1600/P1040629.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikOWFOoNcqK_fVrwVm1te4pygO4DYZmqYveY7FwXaRelmmcPltZZmFCQhaXbYoKJ1OIy7NLSd3U09UXJ4VGus7wKRC_TlOXcVK4AWgu1FKBBx-kp859ANIqZGenV9p3x0L8B5MwicxPw4h/s1600/P1040629.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With camping so popular on the austral, there are plenty of free camp spots with fire pits, making for really pleasant camping.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1eaisj1tzpGFuwm7EMO7YiCkhStlw9ivl2Shaj9uDvRHgT02Qmvb5rusp_Jrm42ozUXwjZAtXjFUJwR6A47DDuH1AtTu5fmhYLdSmPqh6srGvLTi9FrFYBdXaF_IMBpNLUbfvZTPhuXHM/s1600/P1040603.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1eaisj1tzpGFuwm7EMO7YiCkhStlw9ivl2Shaj9uDvRHgT02Qmvb5rusp_Jrm42ozUXwjZAtXjFUJwR6A47DDuH1AtTu5fmhYLdSmPqh6srGvLTi9FrFYBdXaF_IMBpNLUbfvZTPhuXHM/s1600/P1040603.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Although we think it is a great feat of road engineering, we learn that because the Austral was built by the military (during Pinochet´s reign) it is actually relatively badly designed. Aerial photos of the austral showed the mess it left....</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaRLEnhoCM1h6odTT3FUX9p5swCY5v_r8Eie8wxp8e5X_MPE2qHDrTDLSC6Ffixcno5hdTWeP9CRhx9Z-74qDKkF67oQoziPFx_C36qtQdXjRSqEFPE_Rqk1lOdSPoTuQPV-9TG11_YUM/s1600/IMG_2888.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaRLEnhoCM1h6odTT3FUX9p5swCY5v_r8Eie8wxp8e5X_MPE2qHDrTDLSC6Ffixcno5hdTWeP9CRhx9Z-74qDKkF67oQoziPFx_C36qtQdXjRSqEFPE_Rqk1lOdSPoTuQPV-9TG11_YUM/s1600/IMG_2888.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Riding the Austral relatively late in the season we expected plenty of wet weather. But we only got a few light showers - and usually the sun came out soon enough!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYNjY9i6z8iVN-a6qYZFRJ-jrr6z4Xp9edO09USBiKBZxEew5f6GHxn8kYVAxNVe1XNJTaR8PKxSIuqeoLPpJeZLx4wNhd7bpByD10z5b5fMO_LZeLaebKjYGxPgMlQZttxQaEYaA5y6I/s1600/IMG_2905.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYNjY9i6z8iVN-a6qYZFRJ-jrr6z4Xp9edO09USBiKBZxEew5f6GHxn8kYVAxNVe1XNJTaR8PKxSIuqeoLPpJeZLx4wNhd7bpByD10z5b5fMO_LZeLaebKjYGxPgMlQZttxQaEYaA5y6I/s1600/IMG_2905.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camped after the Cuesta del Quelat, disaster strikes. An O-ring on our stove has broken and the stove leaks gasoline and then ignites the dry grass around us! Fortunately we are able to put it out, and in the light of day the next morning we quickly locate the problem. Guess the stove´s field maintenance kit wasn´t dead weight after all!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhakwLekfVi0VtWcalA0xFGu8MybnVHT-hNIoy03aSk7ofMhE9d94RbboEpUuXaEKvMixZC14Zj6U7L5WzJ__cOPct9IUE8X6R98LPX6i_5aCWj0uuxf-cIfStDeG65sbZg0yE3FiVQe2cE/s1600/P1040676.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhakwLekfVi0VtWcalA0xFGu8MybnVHT-hNIoy03aSk7ofMhE9d94RbboEpUuXaEKvMixZC14Zj6U7L5WzJ__cOPct9IUE8X6R98LPX6i_5aCWj0uuxf-cIfStDeG65sbZg0yE3FiVQe2cE/s1600/P1040676.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We arrive in Villa Amengual on the day of its <i>fiesta costumbrista</i>, featuring a rodeo amongst other delights.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ2goFHf5SGzR_PUKRfz_YLk14im4jWUkcRg3dCyrhIywAl_Im3_6kvFqOy0SIQ2l0TxWk95pFnRvZbAjaQP-Nv28Di-kwiLSpJCMm06juYxr2MgyslJQljEl7Z4U3ZuYhALwCyNVuvj5Y/s1600/IMG_2930.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ2goFHf5SGzR_PUKRfz_YLk14im4jWUkcRg3dCyrhIywAl_Im3_6kvFqOy0SIQ2l0TxWk95pFnRvZbAjaQP-Nv28Di-kwiLSpJCMm06juYxr2MgyslJQljEl7Z4U3ZuYhALwCyNVuvj5Y/s1600/IMG_2930.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We like the feel of the place, but decide to carry on rather than try to sleep through the party that is sure to follow the rodeo.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOLdT1gV5cHxlaSclOf-uIMM_krUblxIrcqcSq_Q1JbEdbB3oF2BPNYzJVrp7sSr-bKfW2RA-YPgoYpA92YgTOQITv5Ooyfp-pSz2k8EWduLdY9durIcyaDP6HIHwYaiAk2kn7asD-h82w/s1600/P1040694.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOLdT1gV5cHxlaSclOf-uIMM_krUblxIrcqcSq_Q1JbEdbB3oF2BPNYzJVrp7sSr-bKfW2RA-YPgoYpA92YgTOQITv5Ooyfp-pSz2k8EWduLdY9durIcyaDP6HIHwYaiAk2kn7asD-h82w/s1600/P1040694.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We find a great lakeside campsite, although later the lady from the campsite a few km´s away showed up to try and charge us as we were technically inside a national reserve. Oops.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb9zw6jNK87vRxL6d6t8PNqjN6-tic0bbNNNoktAt-qL3iThLnl8ujpju-jygr7366AbwOBxWwHftIVtPxjTmRQUcbluAnjNhEVNWPunWBy13kskByuJ5ORiE1mEy1iIz6s6eyuEeBPGg/s1600/IMG_2895.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb9zw6jNK87vRxL6d6t8PNqjN6-tic0bbNNNoktAt-qL3iThLnl8ujpju-jygr7366AbwOBxWwHftIVtPxjTmRQUcbluAnjNhEVNWPunWBy13kskByuJ5ORiE1mEy1iIz6s6eyuEeBPGg/s1600/IMG_2895.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the best parts of the austral is that you never have to worry about where your water will come from. Glacial streams are around every bend!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQiOrSkkwqGxizWG-jm42mWuWy36-BPLdZPgr7o2p71oqWknRmaZ3aouSHExZuso_xOEx30Vj8J4va_1Nr2tQo6M9RoaigWdWbfwJAEGQUNdWzSU1RQdN3t3AuRDuwT33_h-tZWyX0lBjN/s1600/P1040612.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQiOrSkkwqGxizWG-jm42mWuWy36-BPLdZPgr7o2p71oqWknRmaZ3aouSHExZuso_xOEx30Vj8J4va_1Nr2tQo6M9RoaigWdWbfwJAEGQUNdWzSU1RQdN3t3AuRDuwT33_h-tZWyX0lBjN/s1600/P1040612.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From Villa Mañihuales we divert off of the Austral for a bit of dirt....up a killer of a hill and through Ñirehuao.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjynVMePiD6TGeXdxecZtHXbutD5CV964JLTnz2MJv4PC5yuiQMsrlGzseVNUvFe1faiumXgBPc9Yq-3zp9M2Twgyt901PIxBLrvGo9z9y0F5r_z87XaRLIi7qSDEq9gr039IYgaGXgt59h/s1600/P1040737.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjynVMePiD6TGeXdxecZtHXbutD5CV964JLTnz2MJv4PC5yuiQMsrlGzseVNUvFe1faiumXgBPc9Yq-3zp9M2Twgyt901PIxBLrvGo9z9y0F5r_z87XaRLIi7qSDEq9gr039IYgaGXgt59h/s1600/P1040737.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just one valley over, the rivers and humidity are gone and the land is much drier. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtnJ6zsAmoSYwvzEueYxxPVuRBXRM2ZzBOAsLb9mn4siCZebVBveW5mEy4EFFrDFKyfTI128iOgdgq_QPj2dzY2h1a2GNu9xZxS6CyVEx_ZbhNpZB8U7-K17A3cmjWSK0QfU0gek_SsAv7/s1600/P1040749.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtnJ6zsAmoSYwvzEueYxxPVuRBXRM2ZzBOAsLb9mn4siCZebVBveW5mEy4EFFrDFKyfTI128iOgdgq_QPj2dzY2h1a2GNu9xZxS6CyVEx_ZbhNpZB8U7-K17A3cmjWSK0QfU0gek_SsAv7/s1600/P1040749.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our diversion takes us past a small Valle de la Luna, although it doesn´t look too lunar to us.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwTetfDCnci9ue_pjkslNKIkrU0ZzRoF4Lxxt2tcf2w3h7uYeh-Lt4BP-aSUkeA4_Zp81-Uu4knH7QhbpNbqW-lq9RQdV5RphnaIrmscuhXwqKMjzzBNcprCREg6zvrys7sprIbRJVuD0/s1600/IMG_2944.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwTetfDCnci9ue_pjkslNKIkrU0ZzRoF4Lxxt2tcf2w3h7uYeh-Lt4BP-aSUkeA4_Zp81-Uu4knH7QhbpNbqW-lq9RQdV5RphnaIrmscuhXwqKMjzzBNcprCREg6zvrys7sprIbRJVuD0/s1600/IMG_2944.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our last day into Coyhaique from Villa Ortega is delayed by Alberto and Lucas getting roped into running a ´5k` (actually more like 2k) race in honor of the town´s anniversary. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpFeCIL6hI23szhNws6j5RDocT_P8GRlfhMyjNfRSSGWr6G9MJb9cM4XVY-G0LvsUaiFsIPVabeiuwaIRBmFJtXEqNUDFKmjPbDBDHK52z3O8KRIXMAJOe_4t3AfY-4KH82otdWWQ6ZOEZ/s1600/IMG_2955.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpFeCIL6hI23szhNws6j5RDocT_P8GRlfhMyjNfRSSGWr6G9MJb9cM4XVY-G0LvsUaiFsIPVabeiuwaIRBmFJtXEqNUDFKmjPbDBDHK52z3O8KRIXMAJOe_4t3AfY-4KH82otdWWQ6ZOEZ/s1600/IMG_2955.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Despite their poor performance, Alberto won the international divison! (There were only two participants and both came near the back of the pack...)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVphuAGlrhguCWXHRutFnBfUWx1sG28sLgSxUNAbciwsq1Wj3gZlDHc3ns91zqn9ScChZp7CnJGxAq95W8T_8lWvHo7W8lOpT3VX4dnPYUAKmHeiiD2zwhhyfy9_0WFeVvUGnMaTG1s0mN/s1600/P1040758.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVphuAGlrhguCWXHRutFnBfUWx1sG28sLgSxUNAbciwsq1Wj3gZlDHc3ns91zqn9ScChZp7CnJGxAq95W8T_8lWvHo7W8lOpT3VX4dnPYUAKmHeiiD2zwhhyfy9_0WFeVvUGnMaTG1s0mN/s1600/P1040758.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arriving into Coyhaique, we are fortunate enough to be intercepted by Boris, who runs the casa de ciclistas in Coyhaique, who shows us the way..</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieuPFKmuDZ1kqDlB3zwJYfHhiFz6so_fafffBdlERW9Az7_JCGRMyn80jY1hFmyJxW-J_b1fOJHMEgLQjG79-hOjcFDAs17H2AMVGdcUrDr_3bO_7kdypXWFGa9RiHChjMxls6dj5uv8SI/s1600/P1040769.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieuPFKmuDZ1kqDlB3zwJYfHhiFz6so_fafffBdlERW9Az7_JCGRMyn80jY1hFmyJxW-J_b1fOJHMEgLQjG79-hOjcFDAs17H2AMVGdcUrDr_3bO_7kdypXWFGa9RiHChjMxls6dj5uv8SI/s1600/P1040769.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">... and we set up the tent for a few days in the super-busy casa for a few days of errands in the biggest towm on the Austral.</td></tr>
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Route notes:</div>
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<div>
There is an abundance of information online about the Austral so we won't go into detail. The <a href="http://wikitravel.org/en/Carretera_Austral">wikitravel entry</a> was particularly useful. For our diversion via Ñirehuao, we followed route notes from <a href="http://www.whileoutriding.com/south-america/chile/carretera-austral-segunda-parte">While Out Riding. </a></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-37695540177726181372015-03-13T03:24:00.000+00:002015-03-13T03:27:52.339+00:00Puerto Montt to Chaitén via the Island of Chiloé: A slice of Island lifeA few days of resting in Sebas´ comfy apartment in Puerto Montt was exactly what we needed to keep going South. The past few weeks had been incredibly scenic, but also frustrating, with some of the worst traffic of our trip. Many days we wondered whether we were burnt out with all the cycling and travelling, and whether it was worth to keep pushing to Ushuaia. Puerto Montt, by far not the favourite of places amongst travellers, offered a few days of living in a real city, where there was not much to do or see but to simply enjoy life in the good company of others.<br />
<br />
With rejuveneted spirits, our decision was whether to start the famous carretera austral right from Puerto Montt, or whether to detour via the less popular Chiloé. Many chilenos kept insisting that we must not miss the Isla Grande, that the place remains more authentic than the rest of Chile, the people super friendly, and the scenery different. It also boasts a great amount of seafood, which, at least for Alberto, was also a big attraction.<br />
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It wasn´t until the morning that we left Puerto Montt that we finally decided to tackle the 90 km of ripio to the short ferry crossing to Chacao, where our days in Chiloé would start. Being February, the busiest travel month in Chile, we feared hordes of tourists on the dirt roads that take on the coast South to Castro, but instead, we found the quietest ripio south of Santiago. Our short time on Chiloé lived up to the hype and lifted our spirits, and definitely showed us that we were not ready for the riding to end...<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH2bh6k9u5hH8StCx58wH8565HlC_T_kS5hnKHCDJOTSkPJICCvGR-GPb_ThNugFdmuCV40iSydzN_nQFIo3DANq3sTt7f15lur1f4_UMCXp9ChFiuv9kosqMeEn-A3vo3kMt4fxnAI5E/s1600/P1040399.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH2bh6k9u5hH8StCx58wH8565HlC_T_kS5hnKHCDJOTSkPJICCvGR-GPb_ThNugFdmuCV40iSydzN_nQFIo3DANq3sTt7f15lur1f4_UMCXp9ChFiuv9kosqMeEn-A3vo3kMt4fxnAI5E/s1600/P1040399.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sebas´house in Puerto Montt was a great place to relax, get jobs done, and connect with other cyclists.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv-fK_kT57TarP2GRNg3N79596h_zXSs6zSed9rxkH1Gmf1UiCvJ1gPKJAt1sMSRlcsRv4FNUZZlWCjBsegiWYQHuy5VjpYy_Yf5cMXxaqtmLEtIgkxj3dxkmbQal5bpqObcB1j8tuTtc/s1600/P1040398.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv-fK_kT57TarP2GRNg3N79596h_zXSs6zSed9rxkH1Gmf1UiCvJ1gPKJAt1sMSRlcsRv4FNUZZlWCjBsegiWYQHuy5VjpYy_Yf5cMXxaqtmLEtIgkxj3dxkmbQal5bpqObcB1j8tuTtc/s1600/P1040398.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We suffer a few false starts with heavy rain making the decision to stay too easy...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS3e5SN1bReTEClXgT50Fc4LitQIQUDvnFRfKrKGDG73r4xNj2y8-0M1hAGxw-SMtfdo-xFD9W6FhnkHW77whyphenhyphenQYc1s_tTaTtzdf4WN6QT3K_vxibOdWiDL5lFLC0v8ECE8ypIo72XkPY/s1600/P1040392.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS3e5SN1bReTEClXgT50Fc4LitQIQUDvnFRfKrKGDG73r4xNj2y8-0M1hAGxw-SMtfdo-xFD9W6FhnkHW77whyphenhyphenQYc1s_tTaTtzdf4WN6QT3K_vxibOdWiDL5lFLC0v8ECE8ypIo72XkPY/s1600/P1040392.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And if you wait long enough, you can even get some sun!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlm_P2cgFFxvDiWWu3sKUGidrtNlzoXn7s-PaXIlOy_XjYkF53Vl2rYh_SxIj8ScvjHQb0VlbS9eS3qpH2trbzSAgTo1GSoCfDZSuC8dxcCR6644nw4-C9vzxOXsJN73vWtRKWbJulFZ4/s1600/P1040415.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlm_P2cgFFxvDiWWu3sKUGidrtNlzoXn7s-PaXIlOy_XjYkF53Vl2rYh_SxIj8ScvjHQb0VlbS9eS3qpH2trbzSAgTo1GSoCfDZSuC8dxcCR6644nw4-C9vzxOXsJN73vWtRKWbJulFZ4/s1600/P1040415.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td><td style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...but eventually, we had to get going. Instead of the Panamerican highway we take quieter roads, which take a bit longer but are much more relaxed. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgISj51QDFYKaQvy4V-3oJz55GfQHH2Q2_ifGnaoG8ktVuK_f8XYQOowUHRTs9lN3mLR4KC3RW1l1fELMk_GLsuXF3yiwvWUnCgnl-Ue-oIL4xxnSfIF1yj0-NXCLeen_fPPkvmI90CVek/s1600/P1040420.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgISj51QDFYKaQvy4V-3oJz55GfQHH2Q2_ifGnaoG8ktVuK_f8XYQOowUHRTs9lN3mLR4KC3RW1l1fELMk_GLsuXF3yiwvWUnCgnl-Ue-oIL4xxnSfIF1yj0-NXCLeen_fPPkvmI90CVek/s1600/P1040420.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">For the last 7km into Pargua for the ferry to Chacao, we finally had no choice but to take the Panamerican, for the first time since Ecuador! Luckily for us, there´s almost no traffic</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0c8mJekvzTkt_9ejURDsSgi6kp0lsuHAQGExxcQm4gjU92v2LxaiE0iyC2z2K81Yt_Av325FCJj5Ms6ambtJPaeJUGMo66EKHq4vgd_n82AhLXKmw0f56Wvf_VNoUo2b8KG5-KxPsGXg/s1600/P1040422.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0c8mJekvzTkt_9ejURDsSgi6kp0lsuHAQGExxcQm4gjU92v2LxaiE0iyC2z2K81Yt_Av325FCJj5Ms6ambtJPaeJUGMo66EKHq4vgd_n82AhLXKmw0f56Wvf_VNoUo2b8KG5-KxPsGXg/s1600/P1040422.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A short ferry ride later and we are on the island of Chiloé, watching and learning from a señora how make empanadas in her living room. Much to our surprise, we have to admit, Chileans win their Argentinian neighbours when it comes to empanadas</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX6lnQ-GN65dnNtHEhHCOL4AqNC1DHtZW2K_8n5P14VT1iOoWCchsW7-XjYRbJ_ihkMR60PhVsV9SE92ed95YTdo1dVLgKp0hS8z5Q7fUkmld3IsBMmyPXFdiFivcc7IpsZ7KF2ZDZ_lM/s1600/P1040427.JPG" height="480" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That night, we camp by the beach...We take the costanera (road around the coast) all the way to Castro</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNeeSdY5bZmsIhusdLKPaL76dwIQwgdylaUk05YnO5-LaABBQRZdWF0hCRvEo8XOEI3yx2pHB8JLEU9Bszx3UGTMf2bnpVOj-3WvHson9-vjIsU7cfGSXQOaf8Gxpc1DFzYJLrLHS9bNQ/s1600/P1040437.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNeeSdY5bZmsIhusdLKPaL76dwIQwgdylaUk05YnO5-LaABBQRZdWF0hCRvEo8XOEI3yx2pHB8JLEU9Bszx3UGTMf2bnpVOj-3WvHson9-vjIsU7cfGSXQOaf8Gxpc1DFzYJLrLHS9bNQ/s1600/P1040437.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...watching dolphins leap past us as we prepared dinner</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBe1GmiPT0Fk8KdA5wL4u3m2r2f05txHGzGVMD_vbbLDm63RJ95aK7JQ_Ev7VdFATBEYEfvXcTNKkBXPjDIPhMf6HHhGhR1-GVMTwAVfeE_-JPEP6wPmRTjVdIOIevPMv02Zj0l1ksIHY/s1600/P1040419.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBe1GmiPT0Fk8KdA5wL4u3m2r2f05txHGzGVMD_vbbLDm63RJ95aK7JQ_Ev7VdFATBEYEfvXcTNKkBXPjDIPhMf6HHhGhR1-GVMTwAVfeE_-JPEP6wPmRTjVdIOIevPMv02Zj0l1ksIHY/s1600/P1040419.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beach camping is new to us on this trip, and very easy to do on the island if you cycle by the coast</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx2EgEVO1Rx1rJoTRykYiy-wKEZYm3Y5nEIhXtXIE3Py2-_kKe0Y27T-UcgaO744W2qJjgUEGVyLUBe2WWjqdp6wsqyGg918cMVw-8FzYR0TumYgyhvoDwWrd4BWPqrng9EKfEUM388fw/s1600/IMG_2825.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx2EgEVO1Rx1rJoTRykYiy-wKEZYm3Y5nEIhXtXIE3Py2-_kKe0Y27T-UcgaO744W2qJjgUEGVyLUBe2WWjqdp6wsqyGg918cMVw-8FzYR0TumYgyhvoDwWrd4BWPqrng9EKfEUM388fw/s1600/IMG_2825.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The next day we make it to Colo, to see the first of the Unesco World Heritage churches of Chiloe which make the island famous. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitP5FXjvCTxWj7tesbylztFO3EraaHxSIUIrCidgICQPsyMjx_LKaDqXYl9OP5Wx6AIE_keJxkJnuu17_bcVE3oZq0N1skBAFlWOi2fSuL0sGqYGgGDr5r_uWYQxUpP9ryVH03QJ_CB0A/s1600/P1040472.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitP5FXjvCTxWj7tesbylztFO3EraaHxSIUIrCidgICQPsyMjx_LKaDqXYl9OP5Wx6AIE_keJxkJnuu17_bcVE3oZq0N1skBAFlWOi2fSuL0sGqYGgGDr5r_uWYQxUpP9ryVH03QJ_CB0A/s1600/P1040472.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just as impressive on the inside as the outside.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9sbUrG2RjN39zw9M3Ol4YidhVO6f9EEdcQSr_FW6MuVelHHzcB4xPC5DrazkIjb4UmzUSJ8WK5y2zNSlBouW03ln5dNQiQRgHGErP2fszcZjh1-lSiW88efWEiyjuzByTWpJSyUN1_iA/s1600/IMG_2826.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9sbUrG2RjN39zw9M3Ol4YidhVO6f9EEdcQSr_FW6MuVelHHzcB4xPC5DrazkIjb4UmzUSJ8WK5y2zNSlBouW03ln5dNQiQRgHGErP2fszcZjh1-lSiW88efWEiyjuzByTWpJSyUN1_iA/s1600/IMG_2826.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The following morning we are back to some good "bike and hike" to get back to the main ripio road</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMFX4NrkSpKxYszeLwA_xoc2yKK5YXG1kEb1Is17g1BpAZKJzpD0C6MRSWfT5voL0gZnZ2xceYn18jTtyQtjueUOaFO9Nkzog8lxYPDTLhiCnPXCc4eTEE_5xo3grhNwnbAWEIF9BhkFw/s1600/P1040447.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMFX4NrkSpKxYszeLwA_xoc2yKK5YXG1kEb1Is17g1BpAZKJzpD0C6MRSWfT5voL0gZnZ2xceYn18jTtyQtjueUOaFO9Nkzog8lxYPDTLhiCnPXCc4eTEE_5xo3grhNwnbAWEIF9BhkFw/s1600/P1040447.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and soon find ourselves in the fiestas de Lliuco, where traditional food is made and everyone wants to get a glimpse inside the church. February brings all the traditional parties to Chiloé: the <i>fiestas costumbristas</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKRx_dveY270o0lfUYsMsx5xkBjQs-kAqNP2r-ii2E0o7e8Tx-cudOx3qvrlZqGE8dqJ-sIei1CiFftmXmFLVW_m1Q_1SEvDaZ9PTLxyV27hN4SI1kDPMot4g9pdV50xnaSplbxqiCdu8/s1600/P1040455.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKRx_dveY270o0lfUYsMsx5xkBjQs-kAqNP2r-ii2E0o7e8Tx-cudOx3qvrlZqGE8dqJ-sIei1CiFftmXmFLVW_m1Q_1SEvDaZ9PTLxyV27hN4SI1kDPMot4g9pdV50xnaSplbxqiCdu8/s1600/P1040455.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the specialities is a type of bread made on this large log roasted over an open flame.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIkvVi6fx9fKll8MRlKB_pQBMhIHmz-f7Ho_11jTTcDcMgennSrn-I19yS7Q9pJKmUYozodMWXBjAtEsuj5e9I5oy_gd4o2qAgylYhKtUWb05Fpjmx-bGLMiYhtDtR7asz6QduN3J8V14/s1600/IMG_2840.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIkvVi6fx9fKll8MRlKB_pQBMhIHmz-f7Ho_11jTTcDcMgennSrn-I19yS7Q9pJKmUYozodMWXBjAtEsuj5e9I5oy_gd4o2qAgylYhKtUWb05Fpjmx-bGLMiYhtDtR7asz6QduN3J8V14/s1600/IMG_2840.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We made another diversion to see the church at Tenaun, arriving there in bright sunshine. Churches in Chiloé are quite a thing!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtJCBvgEqQ0qev4kNZknCjNznUXZjyWBV4vCQJtbY1KUkRedkHnz_kDg3DabL-k9dKiawmNOgf3IFsVfXTTMBzRTvbFw8xLFnwQTSnhIAUo6ebfcNeFZeqA793FVcbGE2VmQmBsehuz1Q/s1600/IMG_2838.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtJCBvgEqQ0qev4kNZknCjNznUXZjyWBV4vCQJtbY1KUkRedkHnz_kDg3DabL-k9dKiawmNOgf3IFsVfXTTMBzRTvbFw8xLFnwQTSnhIAUo6ebfcNeFZeqA793FVcbGE2VmQmBsehuz1Q/s1600/IMG_2838.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We then try to catch a small boat to Chauques islands, but found it to be full, so end up having a nap on the beach instead...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL7rHedsZRrN7R6aeyAeKZhBvNXsfUyLOb_e-jJZOla4XflhwbdYqNZJDDvrZD_7X3fh7Tl4yBwRbU821WXz_qQSU49E_j6yKym9hQ9y7L4DUD666_rGVxTVHrFQQi1gqHy_9u23bgDco/s1600/P1040490.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL7rHedsZRrN7R6aeyAeKZhBvNXsfUyLOb_e-jJZOla4XflhwbdYqNZJDDvrZD_7X3fh7Tl4yBwRbU821WXz_qQSU49E_j6yKym9hQ9y7L4DUD666_rGVxTVHrFQQi1gqHy_9u23bgDco/s1600/P1040490.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...before facing another brutal hill from sea level back to 300 m, in less than 2 km!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1-w6_g5A6ioqQTBDWJTv5yhsiuz9Qlt1NhjrEWc1_7e_8flAli5iPit4zR_Mud5qvxwCMEml_Utu-To60sfBJOc9aDg7Hy3b0mtkpW6_uxgKAea3mnyrWMae_4u83Z5UzzVNV7-CZq4w/s1600/P1040458.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1-w6_g5A6ioqQTBDWJTv5yhsiuz9Qlt1NhjrEWc1_7e_8flAli5iPit4zR_Mud5qvxwCMEml_Utu-To60sfBJOc9aDg7Hy3b0mtkpW6_uxgKAea3mnyrWMae_4u83Z5UzzVNV7-CZq4w/s1600/P1040458.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After more up and downs, we arrive at the first sizeable village: Quemchi. Check out the church and leave in light rain.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR2F5Gb0JH823GZXzXBnYNa8hBFyQ26dZtDLi8Qv8agJg93rASi1DjAXkBar9Ab4z7-dIOymq_MtfiUF0Y8xDrRw2Q9YDw5SEITIkJ6g367JjUTODBpNONrCH4FO-92BuPmWsYly4E3HM/s1600/P1040462.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR2F5Gb0JH823GZXzXBnYNa8hBFyQ26dZtDLi8Qv8agJg93rASi1DjAXkBar9Ab4z7-dIOymq_MtfiUF0Y8xDrRw2Q9YDw5SEITIkJ6g367JjUTODBpNONrCH4FO-92BuPmWsYly4E3HM/s1600/P1040462.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rain doesn´t stop Chilenos from making their asados. These ones from Santiago were particularly cheerful and invited us for some seafood and meat cooked on the fire</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9H7uDiRa0TJjMQZSIrJ1J9bEw_xfu1BQKOfCFbBC4IUAIhIhUiV36z5rRoVTXIMnIeWKD0t_EEe7-IJnw7MDmrPhMAEbNXgMGxe4X3eGcCOHK3D3qsL9uWtx11IixiJ1Q6JI_Mu2aNM0/s1600/IMG_2846.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9H7uDiRa0TJjMQZSIrJ1J9bEw_xfu1BQKOfCFbBC4IUAIhIhUiV36z5rRoVTXIMnIeWKD0t_EEe7-IJnw7MDmrPhMAEbNXgMGxe4X3eGcCOHK3D3qsL9uWtx11IixiJ1Q6JI_Mu2aNM0/s1600/IMG_2846.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We went easy on the wine offers, continued on and camped early by a school full of berries. Our morning porridge tasted so much better!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsjyTutoH8LO1PTodyAPyGLlrcMWcTO0OT4TKcFQ8_-CbZSNoG_gimwYJxw0bOJZBUDNkFCDz41CN6sUpsQ5GvrwEJMRcEs7SbEX9h2SgfbcnR7a5DLt38xn5XSV03g6UXpnLWGAfHhwg/s1600/IMG_2849.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsjyTutoH8LO1PTodyAPyGLlrcMWcTO0OT4TKcFQ8_-CbZSNoG_gimwYJxw0bOJZBUDNkFCDz41CN6sUpsQ5GvrwEJMRcEs7SbEX9h2SgfbcnR7a5DLt38xn5XSV03g6UXpnLWGAfHhwg/s1600/IMG_2849.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A few km later and we arrive in Dalcahue, famous for its church (nowadays being refurbished) and for its fish stalls. It´s said that the best farmed salmon is exported to Europe...but this big chunk was still so delicious, at less than $6 a pop!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilzgu1NqbOcSNvl1o0ddUsGhyphenhyphenUrrVZEWiiqnZ3Ne6nJ3BeburmhHKNu0nLpL_b3kHEkymTkq1yHtnoRJ5gpecvgcb0QXyltohUqtL-xEMJiGBLEpu14JBvFLuLa7w8_MjgTHH43927-XU/s1600/P1040510.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilzgu1NqbOcSNvl1o0ddUsGhyphenhyphenUrrVZEWiiqnZ3Ne6nJ3BeburmhHKNu0nLpL_b3kHEkymTkq1yHtnoRJ5gpecvgcb0QXyltohUqtL-xEMJiGBLEpu14JBvFLuLa7w8_MjgTHH43927-XU/s1600/P1040510.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And finally Castro, with its famous palafitos.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt3zE8wN3q6jXd-OoEmfvBjMtGpw2pb7gZNsx9OjiyH3JMLdQPzlgKyozjugnmENcdv-Ljbl3ExUx7fpD2iw3fcuHUHHNndCOp2vnb1-KqvU4e7LdlcCEYOguRRXFYZWYiFLJWfkvyVGc/s1600/IMG_2863.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt3zE8wN3q6jXd-OoEmfvBjMtGpw2pb7gZNsx9OjiyH3JMLdQPzlgKyozjugnmENcdv-Ljbl3ExUx7fpD2iw3fcuHUHHNndCOp2vnb1-KqvU4e7LdlcCEYOguRRXFYZWYiFLJWfkvyVGc/s1600/IMG_2863.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And another Unesco Heritage church</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We wanted to check out the West coast of the Island, but figured the traffic would be bad and so took the bus instead... Apparently a great destination for hiking, we simply enjoyed a relaxed (and hot) day chilling on a beautiful beach</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoKxQG1GXHI9wRLk3ujiJLs5OF8Saibz4DXbPc_eDLr1HJiS79hbjFYyBsO92XUv5dOTIeqnCvAiiA7l7c_fdpfbZG8Twm1xFZkdy-v4MrvjEHFHeZ_0ehFbZUc62V4UD6GuquXD0y9eQ/s1600/IMG_2879.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoKxQG1GXHI9wRLk3ujiJLs5OF8Saibz4DXbPc_eDLr1HJiS79hbjFYyBsO92XUv5dOTIeqnCvAiiA7l7c_fdpfbZG8Twm1xFZkdy-v4MrvjEHFHeZ_0ehFbZUc62V4UD6GuquXD0y9eQ/s1600/IMG_2879.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From Castro you either go back up to Chacao, or get the ferry over to Chaitén on the mainland. It´s a popular crossing given it´s just once a week!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">En route to El Chaitén we see the cochayuyo being brought back to town. A popular seaweed that Chilenos use (dried, then rehydrated) in their soups.</td></tr>
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Route notes:<br />
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- Puerto Montt to Chacao (Chiloé): we opted for the dirt road almost all the way to Pargua. It´s in good condition, has plenty of villages along the way, and it´s almost devoid of traffic. 7 km before the ferry crossing, you rejoin the Panamerican. The ferries run 24-hours in all weather, and cost 1900-2000 chilean pesos.<br />
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- Chacao to Castro: we took the coastal road all the way. The first 100 km were pretty tough, with bad ripio for most of the time, and lots of up and down, with plenty of steep hills that required pushing. There´s villages along the way, so you need not carry food for more than 1 overnight if any. There´s plenty of diversions that you can take to see churches or bays along the way. Once in Quemchi, pavement starts for some sections, though the gradients remain the same. From Dalcahue to Castro is all paved, except if you take the dirt roads that avoid the Panamerican 10 km before Castro.<br />
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Camping is easy along the coastline when a beach exists - otherwise we had no trouble asking in small villages.<br />
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- Castro to Cucao: we took a bus as we feared this road to be busy with traffic. We were not wrong, and, at least in the high tourist season, this section is potentially very dangerous to cyclists as there´s no shoulder, plenty of blind curves and speedy drivers. <br />
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Albertohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15789158563391048740noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-53998251224280759382015-02-07T21:24:00.000+00:002015-02-08T05:27:57.842+00:00Villarrica to Puerto Montt via Argentina: The highways of dust and some pretty lakesVillarrica marked the half way point in our incursion into the Chilean Lake district. January and February are also the busiest months of the year in terms of tourism. Our priority there was, once again, to take the least busy and more scenic roads...something that has proved very easy for the majority of our travels, but not so much in the lake district at this time of year.. With the private car being omnipresent in Chile, even the supposedly quiet dirt roads also carry lots of fast traffic.<br />
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Leaving Villarrica we headed for the Hua Hum crossing into Argentina. We thought it would be a quiet and scenic dirt road, but we couldn´t have been more wrong - we had entered the highways of dust! Speeding 4x4s and rental cars were our companions for all those days. The scenery never materialised either - most of the roads travelled through dense forests, which on the other hand, provide some shelter for the unforgiving sun of the summer. In Puerto Fuy, an Argentinian cycle tourist gave us more bad news: more dust, traffic and even steeper prices awaited us when we crossed into Argentina...<br />
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But we love Argentina. While Chile greets you with most of its land fenced off , National Park fees and ridiculous prices for campsites, Argentinian´s National Parks are pretty much all free, unfenced, and all of them have areas for free camping. But the lakes district was so different from the North. Generous folk, calm drivers, empty roads and the yummy cheap empanadas we had left behind in Catamarca were quickly replaced by price gouging on an unthinkable scale, frantic traffic, and empanadas that cost more than our daily budget.<br />
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We passed a few days feeling really quite down, finding it impossible to find the types of roads we like to ride and the kinds of communities we like to ride through. By the time we arrived in Bariloche (via one of the scariest roads of the trip), we knew something had to change radically. A special treat of a kayaking trip in the Lago Nahuel Huapi helped us to press reset on the whole experience, and we made the decision to take the expensive Cruce Andino boat crossing into Chile rather than ride another kilometer on the suicidal roads of the area. When all was said and done we had spent more than two weeks´ budget over the course of two days, but we came out the other side of it with renewed energy and optimism.<br />
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The final piece came as we arrived in Puerto Montt to the welcoming arms of our Warmshowers host Sebastian, coinciding with other cyclists and sharing their energy, reminding ourselves what we love about bicycle travel and getting psyched for the final 2,000 km to Ushuaia. Writing this blog now with the benefit of hindsight, well-rested and surrounded by positive energy, we can see that there were also plenty of beautiful moments during our time in the lakes as well...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDWzWvXnoEOdPv3Psr7phxaxBtKMyArDtqNBf6uB6yBUO-hni2cHujVnXnzU_grwlh0DJLpzJH1LkCsLdbwxpKm59MOWg8yUl4NVgQTTvdl6KdouS2lVUIUiNiWITiAWgXMuP-nukMLR2o/s1600/P1040115.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDWzWvXnoEOdPv3Psr7phxaxBtKMyArDtqNBf6uB6yBUO-hni2cHujVnXnzU_grwlh0DJLpzJH1LkCsLdbwxpKm59MOWg8yUl4NVgQTTvdl6KdouS2lVUIUiNiWITiAWgXMuP-nukMLR2o/s1600/P1040115.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We head towards Lican Ray with views of Volcan Villarrica</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicnWnUsfK9RtYYZfRcIUkc8WrQSSETyD-dWDBoi8PHpCd-7sCNlvbR8S8t1brPmGhW3V0wCApXPbUY1UESOy8vUQZWozCNm3LkptjnMxBw5M8bxKit8zPL1xJ00bDjgjJVy6n_YpQfhrJg/s1600/IMG_2689.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicnWnUsfK9RtYYZfRcIUkc8WrQSSETyD-dWDBoi8PHpCd-7sCNlvbR8S8t1brPmGhW3V0wCApXPbUY1UESOy8vUQZWozCNm3LkptjnMxBw5M8bxKit8zPL1xJ00bDjgjJVy6n_YpQfhrJg/s1600/IMG_2689.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amongst all the expensive campsites of Lican Ray we manage to find a simple, reasonably priced one, a bit far from the lakeside action but perfect for our needs. Dinner that night features a very large home-grown courgette and a very small bottle of wine.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR7NPL5RD1N_aRKFnXoHaxiYvndqeNU8mfADbl6nwDECqJLaklXIOOZD4uVLTqPAEibwnoOP11sw3rwjqJySgP_ZX0S4alkfU10tOhlrGMVZ8UtFhtcO7m_y7OWTPNoYwRUFBS3SHzvskV/s1600/P1040113.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR7NPL5RD1N_aRKFnXoHaxiYvndqeNU8mfADbl6nwDECqJLaklXIOOZD4uVLTqPAEibwnoOP11sw3rwjqJySgP_ZX0S4alkfU10tOhlrGMVZ8UtFhtcO7m_y7OWTPNoYwRUFBS3SHzvskV/s1600/P1040113.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The campsite also featured a small garden that the owners used to educate guests (as well as to feed themselves of course!) After a year in the Andes, we finally see the actual quinoa plant up-close and for the first time. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr_uSAWhFeqDuefVIG0CIaCFfpBbqw80CUsOK-OLAazzCpt9zRvHR1bZybpBho4b-5iDUuh-c_5QPMHsoF_ZQ87Cf5pwBnsM-1NRxKa07JJnQGXfWO2PdO3V0iWB3FIPb7r1mTS2n8zegr/s1600/P1040122.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr_uSAWhFeqDuefVIG0CIaCFfpBbqw80CUsOK-OLAazzCpt9zRvHR1bZybpBho4b-5iDUuh-c_5QPMHsoF_ZQ87Cf5pwBnsM-1NRxKa07JJnQGXfWO2PdO3V0iWB3FIPb7r1mTS2n8zegr/s1600/P1040122.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Passing Lago Neltume the next day, we find this sign that perfectly captures our frustration with the Chilean lakes: Beach for rent. This man wanted to charge us nearly $12 USD to sleep on a little spot of beach with no services. Wtf!?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCmufwBlIW9WyqOK_TrWCKkT959fnhtAEfQ9Vz5T79_rAQ0AUVU56uu6sFNyyAlO5zWFFQChpJu2IQZ5Ll8p3hBnpiM81tEwtAggLEngMo-iL6JTCuYLdPRzQs0XX8At1xPu9ryBZ7SMiw/s1600/IMG_2699.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCmufwBlIW9WyqOK_TrWCKkT959fnhtAEfQ9Vz5T79_rAQ0AUVU56uu6sFNyyAlO5zWFFQChpJu2IQZ5Ll8p3hBnpiM81tEwtAggLEngMo-iL6JTCuYLdPRzQs0XX8At1xPu9ryBZ7SMiw/s1600/IMG_2699.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With our hopes of a peaceful lakeside wild camp dashed, we ask at a small farm if we can pitch our tent. The family kindly gives us a spot of grass and we pass the night talking with their seven year old son about the violent video games his friend owns. Quite a radical change from the countries up North...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwZ_lrcj4kKUUr99SkCcBCJKoGnmwHjKFhBa-lGLPTaOQZGdq79bto-y1yhyC6lxijYsz-9_t_uo_B-rCvUP5HxPB-72LE52waivhCwZBURx79YmJMJcjtIQReVSubM6jrdyhr2e70rF31/s1600/P1040126.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwZ_lrcj4kKUUr99SkCcBCJKoGnmwHjKFhBa-lGLPTaOQZGdq79bto-y1yhyC6lxijYsz-9_t_uo_B-rCvUP5HxPB-72LE52waivhCwZBURx79YmJMJcjtIQReVSubM6jrdyhr2e70rF31/s1600/P1040126.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The next day we reach our ferry at Puerto Fuy, which will take us almost to the Argentinal border.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyD8qF8rO9ifQzs7UCv2hbGjT1jeN35dIRTyXjtXM7E3y11chIv5DGWbcEDLPOZcVhZppwb2vGElQ1V_VWx3Ti55aeu54wPe_-5lDW3VWnic5g0eL32-yMEKkT1hGKhv9uRCChyrWOej4Z/s1600/IMG_2706.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyD8qF8rO9ifQzs7UCv2hbGjT1jeN35dIRTyXjtXM7E3y11chIv5DGWbcEDLPOZcVhZppwb2vGElQ1V_VWx3Ti55aeu54wPe_-5lDW3VWnic5g0eL32-yMEKkT1hGKhv9uRCChyrWOej4Z/s1600/IMG_2706.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We were really excited to enter Argentina, hoping it would mark a turning point in our experience.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbPA2hg5SiIndT8s7CMG5-I8m5yknP58gDoBqhwg3RS3A2JJxdDk1QLqZkqCEcQ7JGNxIN__7oTB6fDbklzOacpEVZit5pOGCgEQqYhKwliA_mOchwaCnale7Vza_1ZJ4hgYqeg5Mswl_K/s1600/P1040147.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbPA2hg5SiIndT8s7CMG5-I8m5yknP58gDoBqhwg3RS3A2JJxdDk1QLqZkqCEcQ7JGNxIN__7oTB6fDbklzOacpEVZit5pOGCgEQqYhKwliA_mOchwaCnale7Vza_1ZJ4hgYqeg5Mswl_K/s1600/P1040147.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">For the first night, it seems that it has worked. We head for a designated free campsite within Parque Nacional Lanin....</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiccNYgP-gupNNiZbM2kGh03JH0W6n0XXBnqPa9KLqaQ_R7HNwDz17916UNdZXuu7UdkKHQXZSPJKfV-HcBv7OBoUAN0Dee1vPioUmjs6SB1cSYAD54DI18aZZLyVRXTkCDJxokh6Qbkxzi/s1600/P1040144.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiccNYgP-gupNNiZbM2kGh03JH0W6n0XXBnqPa9KLqaQ_R7HNwDz17916UNdZXuu7UdkKHQXZSPJKfV-HcBv7OBoUAN0Dee1vPioUmjs6SB1cSYAD54DI18aZZLyVRXTkCDJxokh6Qbkxzi/s1600/P1040144.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and enjoy a peaceful camp with great views.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJRCt4a8HHbcMICs6soTPre4vXpdM7N4tQCuTC_p1P4MQZS5Ph_BUz8mXonhvFLhXUVfrpFjHMJzQ7FExlnFNTnb-UR81W3Wf0MwqK51LHkmWrGtIFr6toi5SUPU7j-pu3lS0CrOMZa_zG/s1600/IMG_2710.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJRCt4a8HHbcMICs6soTPre4vXpdM7N4tQCuTC_p1P4MQZS5Ph_BUz8mXonhvFLhXUVfrpFjHMJzQ7FExlnFNTnb-UR81W3Wf0MwqK51LHkmWrGtIFr6toi5SUPU7j-pu3lS0CrOMZa_zG/s1600/IMG_2710.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But alas, it doesn´t last. We arrive in San Martin de los Andes to utter sticker shock -- a crappy campsite will cost us more than our daily budget. After taking care of errands, it´s almost dark before we are ready to leave town and so we end up sleeping on the town´s beach.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv-EXnCVFfaEoHNfRv5mWlFS1pqbw7ztF0ZXJdq_IsXNSx5DREkCMnUXj7czE3H-vVWhojIP1dAjbk-u1_hu3pqfMlyraLhobBDxYm22celTj-QAJFlsXzw4_gcAmVo1X4ZoBwZMz3MJkg/s1600/IMG_2715.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv-EXnCVFfaEoHNfRv5mWlFS1pqbw7ztF0ZXJdq_IsXNSx5DREkCMnUXj7czE3H-vVWhojIP1dAjbk-u1_hu3pqfMlyraLhobBDxYm22celTj-QAJFlsXzw4_gcAmVo1X4ZoBwZMz3MJkg/s1600/IMG_2715.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We had been looking forward to the Ruta de los 7 Lagos, or route of 7 lakes, for a while, but at this time of year the road is so full of tourists that it makes it quite hard to enjoy. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1q-uysFEbHF9Er2aIFWZm2xTmEaQF9DccBbe1RVAcqskXSaOZScdvkrb2hgL5DCHWQ2J2a2Su1Z5gkeRrnJGNhaq5FibwAUBbLqefNUg52hm8H4ayOEnk1RURkjvcZmQjoKko4wCSuLIs/s1600/P1040166.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1q-uysFEbHF9Er2aIFWZm2xTmEaQF9DccBbe1RVAcqskXSaOZScdvkrb2hgL5DCHWQ2J2a2Su1Z5gkeRrnJGNhaq5FibwAUBbLqefNUg52hm8H4ayOEnk1RURkjvcZmQjoKko4wCSuLIs/s1600/P1040166.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And there are also lots and lots of cyclists on this popular route... For the first time in our trip, we don´t stop to talk to every cyclist with panniers that we encounter</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvrNl7tw1MWXgrWOYNiSBgIns_69ZzulgHU_7NNm6ibTwM5WwM7weWRJ_uhalGBo02YbE0uomb7SiKwDbJnQxiqepiQeDjiTJQqaX-ZRSP2xcfZL3IfNPQ7LHPIU6dMB9YWd6v1VwbMJd4/s1600/P1040205.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvrNl7tw1MWXgrWOYNiSBgIns_69ZzulgHU_7NNm6ibTwM5WwM7weWRJ_uhalGBo02YbE0uomb7SiKwDbJnQxiqepiQeDjiTJQqaX-ZRSP2xcfZL3IfNPQ7LHPIU6dMB9YWd6v1VwbMJd4/s1600/P1040205.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Lago Espejo, we are reminded of the relaxed attitude we like in Argentina. Like in Spain, sometimes rules are there just as a suggestion. Sign reads "On the beach it´s prohibited to make fires and camp"</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFR_YP7CRlpcO9X4LBGybgzvhgQI7jJibSSgPQKnNCAMLnOXlKvK8eQQhCHDVvxpEEyWNSs2cLarkN8gZB-HuJyIEOSNye5oXzAulOQN5Tbtmf9Y82xODp4sx4Tf7kUqhtfvuf-pqH5pdC/s1600/IMG_2724.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFR_YP7CRlpcO9X4LBGybgzvhgQI7jJibSSgPQKnNCAMLnOXlKvK8eQQhCHDVvxpEEyWNSs2cLarkN8gZB-HuJyIEOSNye5oXzAulOQN5Tbtmf9Y82xODp4sx4Tf7kUqhtfvuf-pqH5pdC/s1600/IMG_2724.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We spend a day off at Lago el Espejo enjoying the beach and hoping that the rest will be of help...we are so tired of the traffic and a bit disappointed at the route </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhizpKHJxkrZujqsj07ibjOzDYJ6UqMSMaatZaUfEmfjJmMNOjdzEBXmr-_SmkalwKl75tk0MMn7r9yo8grG9R4ymfKgkMWEbmt1oGTLEPFm3mxLskdWXCrvh5LhaNMFOHeX2wKbjKu4VRL/s1600/P1040176.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhizpKHJxkrZujqsj07ibjOzDYJ6UqMSMaatZaUfEmfjJmMNOjdzEBXmr-_SmkalwKl75tk0MMn7r9yo8grG9R4ymfKgkMWEbmt1oGTLEPFm3mxLskdWXCrvh5LhaNMFOHeX2wKbjKu4VRL/s1600/P1040176.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It´s just a short push to touristy Villa La Angostura...and on the way we see some of the best scenery of the Ruta de los 7 Lagos.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGfeELvnBs2WUa2hkmWakFU-3j52KPXBmOo79aNetCuSkZqmrxfsZyIOphauQJlPhhtO9bphwCxBwK38KSkKVD58rI23cW0Scak4V9O6Ox-m6x7LdGi9ZZiK1Q7G5EpTq-agOtxObn-OrR/s1600/P1040189.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGfeELvnBs2WUa2hkmWakFU-3j52KPXBmOo79aNetCuSkZqmrxfsZyIOphauQJlPhhtO9bphwCxBwK38KSkKVD58rI23cW0Scak4V9O6Ox-m6x7LdGi9ZZiK1Q7G5EpTq-agOtxObn-OrR/s1600/P1040189.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crystal clear lakes and mountains, that´s what we came here for...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt8wyCQRO819VwKGyk1wwOZeoIT6mlHGzIwtloscaHtEv6b6aNUTC5Bx9RYnGaNEnJMekfoKBF6yuIc_d6XJomgwmFHbdn9kfMAuUxRNjKVke_fucUcinDB3m7BbhVnOrZ8_jlV8hmuVkq/s1600/IMG_2729.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt8wyCQRO819VwKGyk1wwOZeoIT6mlHGzIwtloscaHtEv6b6aNUTC5Bx9RYnGaNEnJMekfoKBF6yuIc_d6XJomgwmFHbdn9kfMAuUxRNjKVke_fucUcinDB3m7BbhVnOrZ8_jlV8hmuVkq/s1600/IMG_2729.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And of course, some nice lake-side beaches</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCFEFOsQGY70rCtz_lQKyoTCzT3W66SBR-HmaVXO2t0oo_kSGXgbC-9NDJteeXrtdcLA4oYAFPCRT0sThgwxuYBEU5hFov7jeRkUP4dYSUwEU8VRO8M5_ULrPtAoQ2YY6un4pP1cLkewPi/s1600/IMG_2737.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCFEFOsQGY70rCtz_lQKyoTCzT3W66SBR-HmaVXO2t0oo_kSGXgbC-9NDJteeXrtdcLA4oYAFPCRT0sThgwxuYBEU5hFov7jeRkUP4dYSUwEU8VRO8M5_ULrPtAoQ2YY6un4pP1cLkewPi/s1600/IMG_2737.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Lago Espejo we met Urban, a German cycle tourist on a short trip around Argentina and Chile. At 50 years old, he´s recently discovered cycle touring and was full of enthusiasm. It´s never too late to get started!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUsFePBAjwLXnOFEDQc_D51ZxKLRUVnNAZ4GCp2EPkGgfIn90UcyBgEd0V-zhPa8uByOTAal2upRf4rr8yLjG_sy-X9FLi9tIbUMDTKpd91Yegn2C89F_H9NxuAtPGBZZJO3c8fUxpM1a-/s1600/P1040245.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUsFePBAjwLXnOFEDQc_D51ZxKLRUVnNAZ4GCp2EPkGgfIn90UcyBgEd0V-zhPa8uByOTAal2upRf4rr8yLjG_sy-X9FLi9tIbUMDTKpd91Yegn2C89F_H9NxuAtPGBZZJO3c8fUxpM1a-/s1600/P1040245.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">We cycle through uninteresting Villa La Angostura, which provides an opportunity for stocking up for the night...</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAw1QmlS7Ut91XLWR_LlEEJ_V4LBC22VI4sDbB573seGLq4fsSQBItU3AcIRz_eUyErJG1WlqYxkOMiO81lkD4JLEJH3_cueflas4zgcb7kJTmt9e65QBbNJgFDyeYG62CDVRxprbYPeuf/s1600/P1040214.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAw1QmlS7Ut91XLWR_LlEEJ_V4LBC22VI4sDbB573seGLq4fsSQBItU3AcIRz_eUyErJG1WlqYxkOMiO81lkD4JLEJH3_cueflas4zgcb7kJTmt9e65QBbNJgFDyeYG62CDVRxprbYPeuf/s1600/P1040214.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and soon afterwards find an idyllic place to camp by the Lake Nahuel Huapi. Before it´s too dark we take a plunge in its chilly waters</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5AJH1a6kElj-dwOwR-baGhOgxFcyu2QChNq7I37VPyXuqJ4lR7ycjktEizI8wPJ4F9A7mO-rf6FjdSJQZQLKDirP0xlkHNF5F7ZwwVMlJASLbB8HoH1ZeI4-Zi45VYv43ehRSOwCoWceG/s1600/P1040227.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5AJH1a6kElj-dwOwR-baGhOgxFcyu2QChNq7I37VPyXuqJ4lR7ycjktEizI8wPJ4F9A7mO-rf6FjdSJQZQLKDirP0xlkHNF5F7ZwwVMlJASLbB8HoH1ZeI4-Zi45VYv43ehRSOwCoWceG/s1600/P1040227.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the morning we take it easy, enjoy the views and the quietness of the place. Despite being in one the busiest, more expensive areas in the whole continent, you can still find incredible wild camps, only a few kms from fancy Villa La Angostura.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlso0bHUZn8KOBt0S_rGwcB7meKBRvRVsbz1gnkb5W7k5ZWXbv_DL1CE0F4Ln-MgbPh5_wMHtrF219ju5sHrwyT145gQWuxg94zNM6S01TDuCuKr5-y9g6RNypNkS_KY38pgsCqux5CTGN/s1600/P1040233.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlso0bHUZn8KOBt0S_rGwcB7meKBRvRVsbz1gnkb5W7k5ZWXbv_DL1CE0F4Ln-MgbPh5_wMHtrF219ju5sHrwyT145gQWuxg94zNM6S01TDuCuKr5-y9g6RNypNkS_KY38pgsCqux5CTGN/s1600/P1040233.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unfortunately though, our happyness is short lived. Just after leaving our idyllic campsite, we are faced with the road 231 to Bariloche. Serving as one of the main crossings from Chile to Argentina, and being so narrow, it´s the perfect recipe for a dangerous road (indeed one of the dodgiest of our trip). Luckily though there´s an unpaved shoulder that we take all the way...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJc98H-ZvuBlJdB3ZL-aBQkuB5Jao7nOX_T0lCKADHpwrLBfNOzvlPkHT-ac7N9JQKtO45Rhj9fDSUgG_GEqNRp8I2z3QrBJWDMlBh805wLPMvvDTlFtrFk8iXIiFLG85G3dugu8UBGC4v/s1600/P1040270.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJc98H-ZvuBlJdB3ZL-aBQkuB5Jao7nOX_T0lCKADHpwrLBfNOzvlPkHT-ac7N9JQKtO45Rhj9fDSUgG_GEqNRp8I2z3QrBJWDMlBh805wLPMvvDTlFtrFk8iXIiFLG85G3dugu8UBGC4v/s1600/P1040270.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bariloche itself isn´t particularly exciting, but at least it´s a big town with all the services and not only overpriced tourist hangouts. And, it has the Nahuel Huapi lake, which is really scenic from all angles. Here Cerro Tronador (3491 m) as seen from the lake.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4Kx2SNuqJMqs6p4r0-0Wsb300auhbdfpcovEJOlOyxHr3MPTvlqJOl-B_Md0h7KuY6_noKf5Yqs2pynNWrDLiHHjB3241dP8zvED2IB2_RFP247ZAP9lVj3jfnGBdt8Pd_zI0e4mUgOHD/s1600/IMG_2748.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4Kx2SNuqJMqs6p4r0-0Wsb300auhbdfpcovEJOlOyxHr3MPTvlqJOl-B_Md0h7KuY6_noKf5Yqs2pynNWrDLiHHjB3241dP8zvED2IB2_RFP247ZAP9lVj3jfnGBdt8Pd_zI0e4mUgOHD/s1600/IMG_2748.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We splurged and try out kayak touring...can´t really coordinate our paddle stroke, and realise that tandems are really not for us! However, Alberto quickly comes up with an idea...kayaking around the coast of Spain. Next project maybe?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhJsbcvSxhGfQ2Kl-87RwcKew3GANqJcuJvlOiziQzmkHJgHqc54_NnlJN5n5x29-T1cJE988W9LoRMhAJCz5mOK001raLnRDfPzgumbkTp4DA3PDn2Ks5BTL9mzZqed81-Hez3bzRMafH/s1600/P1040282.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhJsbcvSxhGfQ2Kl-87RwcKew3GANqJcuJvlOiziQzmkHJgHqc54_NnlJN5n5x29-T1cJE988W9LoRMhAJCz5mOK001raLnRDfPzgumbkTp4DA3PDn2Ks5BTL9mzZqed81-Hez3bzRMafH/s1600/P1040282.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After 1.5 months without any rain in the Bariloche area, we woke up to threatening skies and thunder, ride to the ferry and cross the Nahuel Huapi headed back for Chile</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho8JvwuvBIW52k_9IMQt4eHIQBBPNL-MOfYvMgc6yGztkvNXnKol9wT2Kn4eWNrWfV3ayN9tcSVMiD7QynjxCh-YoGNo4jxfM7NMEgqtG3uMX8B7mOeNsW13uGr-ieRDyQ0Dp-1dzumOwh/s1600/P1040295.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho8JvwuvBIW52k_9IMQt4eHIQBBPNL-MOfYvMgc6yGztkvNXnKol9wT2Kn4eWNrWfV3ayN9tcSVMiD7QynjxCh-YoGNo4jxfM7NMEgqtG3uMX8B7mOeNsW13uGr-ieRDyQ0Dp-1dzumOwh/s1600/P1040295.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The second crossing takes us on the very green waters of Lago Frías...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPBBiZ4CFsIUQ8j8U2YN93uz4Mga4OiXI5WN2o0PpNaAKaG1EwGgikypTlP2OWaNdMC6djz90LrIijWT73t0Wn01mJeTcZBsE6Z_gAdcPMHSokLCo5cCBkKziYFoOHSeLz-qWQw-0IDg2Z/s1600/P1040309.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPBBiZ4CFsIUQ8j8U2YN93uz4Mga4OiXI5WN2o0PpNaAKaG1EwGgikypTlP2OWaNdMC6djz90LrIijWT73t0Wn01mJeTcZBsE6Z_gAdcPMHSokLCo5cCBkKziYFoOHSeLz-qWQw-0IDg2Z/s1600/P1040309.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...where we stamp out of Argentina at one of the most scenic border crossings of our trip</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVapwJvzmGhqujXA57ljVD0WK0MM5e1Va-wP27Jm9yw6XMkx42KzwrjuGEgL0xkUuaEADprNed6qQF31cEby0cQIw7_WOL8QLFx_3g1BR4nOG9DcDSfJ9pfiSZdYfBnl7IxGsU10BsEn3b/s1600/P1040321.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVapwJvzmGhqujXA57ljVD0WK0MM5e1Va-wP27Jm9yw6XMkx42KzwrjuGEgL0xkUuaEADprNed6qQF31cEby0cQIw7_WOL8QLFx_3g1BR4nOG9DcDSfJ9pfiSZdYfBnl7IxGsU10BsEn3b/s1600/P1040321.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Then enjoy the 30km of traffic free <i>ripio</i> that take us to Chile. Only one tourist bus a day uses this crossing, and so for the first time in a few days we really can relax and enjoy the scenery.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHUqsvLHBtCRESLTPTcioQVtexbe31sJMjV0NDXcRaQQTW928HTmp5iPI5zWmeAjDejZW3-GDybucw2p0ZJ5AgEKF5QaEuG1t4eKwaTqBaMSbuB9Ltfp49jupCOQQbBT3_MkAyMQLKPtNl/s1600/P1040326.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHUqsvLHBtCRESLTPTcioQVtexbe31sJMjV0NDXcRaQQTW928HTmp5iPI5zWmeAjDejZW3-GDybucw2p0ZJ5AgEKF5QaEuG1t4eKwaTqBaMSbuB9Ltfp49jupCOQQbBT3_MkAyMQLKPtNl/s1600/P1040326.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arriving into the village of Peulla, we stamp in to Chile, get to know the entire village and make plans for the following day: a boat trip picking up trash with the Conaf guys in and around the beaches of the Lago de Todos los Santos.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia6ZJINRnFZUZ-pt-yzjSlPK7JxNMpXF5MBYF9GHXZrzdpPVi43ICDXIqHJzOJKq80Xux9ltNroaKZNAFAjieNxmEz4SBkRyykpCC2AIGWaMIYM6UK915F9BLFgdsYWGYZNybGx3sGd14U/s1600/P1040327.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia6ZJINRnFZUZ-pt-yzjSlPK7JxNMpXF5MBYF9GHXZrzdpPVi43ICDXIqHJzOJKq80Xux9ltNroaKZNAFAjieNxmEz4SBkRyykpCC2AIGWaMIYM6UK915F9BLFgdsYWGYZNybGx3sGd14U/s1600/P1040327.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But before, we take our daily shower before it gets too dark....and sleep peacefully by the Conaf office</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCXQKZCOXZG8OkW4RZsxnV22Q8DXTSign_oLa-HwSXlqvCuk8AuovAFG2z_H3BKqAwgbFmrrBN-pLM7MKApJ6SDXbPHfJAUES7SsiwbPrhvArKBUifJECEBerKoX7fxXGx3VXeG6hX3uF6/s1600/P1040347.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCXQKZCOXZG8OkW4RZsxnV22Q8DXTSign_oLa-HwSXlqvCuk8AuovAFG2z_H3BKqAwgbFmrrBN-pLM7MKApJ6SDXbPHfJAUES7SsiwbPrhvArKBUifJECEBerKoX7fxXGx3VXeG6hX3uF6/s1600/P1040347.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the morning we set off to pick up trash, and get to see the Puntiagudo Volcano</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBRdQL3eYyqspHa2l-XoJanGWxUZL19HMUD6Eto_WVIv4sXHY0nrvOs5b6I0VzO6mwldScGcovmx-3XDnNr3z-gZcrLHPRtbWJy43KGKxEfqhKJ05ZCeOJADEfQiPo9UcXy49ycrlcI-dM/s1600/P1040357.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBRdQL3eYyqspHa2l-XoJanGWxUZL19HMUD6Eto_WVIv4sXHY0nrvOs5b6I0VzO6mwldScGcovmx-3XDnNr3z-gZcrLHPRtbWJy43KGKxEfqhKJ05ZCeOJADEfQiPo9UcXy49ycrlcI-dM/s1600/P1040357.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and the Tronador, now from its Chilean side</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxXHXjkdkx465Aljrd4ZZDvbidtjfETluOD5Nf6x7WcpNrIKCkzvcd-hiF13dJKS_0Ha4_PNnFkpYlxW2MFzF1gGDjnlDNMIAXQfeofCNF-OWdyPOEN7DrH8O9gIE6ULJNEfhu6sGCOvqn/s1600/P1040352.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxXHXjkdkx465Aljrd4ZZDvbidtjfETluOD5Nf6x7WcpNrIKCkzvcd-hiF13dJKS_0Ha4_PNnFkpYlxW2MFzF1gGDjnlDNMIAXQfeofCNF-OWdyPOEN7DrH8O9gIE6ULJNEfhu6sGCOvqn/s1600/P1040352.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We pick up trash from the beaches, then ferry it across to a bigger boat which will transport it and us back to Peulla</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4tctA_PumArBJ8Cf5nIpvSD34jdiT_kZXDqoTcjp3J6vmD-W7sPYvEqOnPw7oyO_AKCf64XttrUwXfgyuUs8WOJaENxkQY7CSV8KRQXiwqxbkdugEU5tv7uR2Juxj2DeHVzmjnw90DWoP/s1600/P1040366.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4tctA_PumArBJ8Cf5nIpvSD34jdiT_kZXDqoTcjp3J6vmD-W7sPYvEqOnPw7oyO_AKCf64XttrUwXfgyuUs8WOJaENxkQY7CSV8KRQXiwqxbkdugEU5tv7uR2Juxj2DeHVzmjnw90DWoP/s1600/P1040366.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just before the wind picks up, clouds appear, and we head back to port...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinJ_Wvja1pMjA2PdUqUCJ4kWG9U295srduKMjB-nr7tpJ6QBSs_0vIViuZKSrs2FdBkbxZJtOBdWbSRCN6O4g1ApnmecJVID3B3_YXq6T0RYcctySoZtsKR9LLRl09fAr05aVui56vYdd4/s1600/P1040373.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinJ_Wvja1pMjA2PdUqUCJ4kWG9U295srduKMjB-nr7tpJ6QBSs_0vIViuZKSrs2FdBkbxZJtOBdWbSRCN6O4g1ApnmecJVID3B3_YXq6T0RYcctySoZtsKR9LLRl09fAr05aVui56vYdd4/s1600/P1040373.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Job done for the day! We felt good to give something back to countries and people that have offered us so much hospitality during our trip</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6bPA-uxVip2-lKU27iKdkQ1J2syNTTMnrPs5nNlnAA-e8CBGHK91i266vUl0oH3yiClQHrbJseShR8KjUSX6Ym3rgxNZobZ_qK1m5lL0KCnesq0eolHkoZc5kRZYns4_H1jAcjLgm1wPb/s1600/P1040380.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6bPA-uxVip2-lKU27iKdkQ1J2syNTTMnrPs5nNlnAA-e8CBGHK91i266vUl0oH3yiClQHrbJseShR8KjUSX6Ym3rgxNZobZ_qK1m5lL0KCnesq0eolHkoZc5kRZYns4_H1jAcjLgm1wPb/s1600/P1040380.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the afternoon we catch one more ferry that takes us forward to touristy Petrohué, on the sides of Volcán Osorno - another picture perfect snow-capped volcano</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5t99MNfW2PO2-zoeVD00_JvypzV95ZQ3O4lnbsI7eT5_ooEbBayhd8u6-s-U0XebJGOxs3pXYYj1LGpOyYTCw91Ohe8Y0fuhTNy3nyWCXbuBdiwIJbWvSFY6BAEcMbk4y6lfwBZFu5lUh/s1600/P1040387.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5t99MNfW2PO2-zoeVD00_JvypzV95ZQ3O4lnbsI7eT5_ooEbBayhd8u6-s-U0XebJGOxs3pXYYj1LGpOyYTCw91Ohe8Y0fuhTNy3nyWCXbuBdiwIJbWvSFY6BAEcMbk4y6lfwBZFu5lUh/s1600/P1040387.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The following day we ride towards Puerto Montt...and stop by these beauties</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3RYFe-OXXqSEMY87ElGyelLnD3HBMBEFGM8zkDrONF_gi6hZ7xXA1VMIY4P7C0OA-cm9QuwOh7zZsMOWM75T93e3dODDuibsmW1DABH1pnK2-l9h-7mTVZvELPq6tNqTM00bIUyJSvCSx/s1600/IMG_2784.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3RYFe-OXXqSEMY87ElGyelLnD3HBMBEFGM8zkDrONF_gi6hZ7xXA1VMIY4P7C0OA-cm9QuwOh7zZsMOWM75T93e3dODDuibsmW1DABH1pnK2-l9h-7mTVZvELPq6tNqTM00bIUyJSvCSx/s1600/IMG_2784.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Most are still too green, but we found the ones that are ready and have a blackberry feast</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbqwvOjJauN3eu92bfUCNQyHmB6GqHm1Qw7op6nwiDBSqTUjuQZ8Mo6Ssd8Y8wX4Qq9TeugvpaQy9WuaKqer7J1DyIdxOjgHOsnQII8ubmF8Dszgj6EsmBjo3bp1EGsDPOlcNhrmrDeXAr/s1600/P1040392.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbqwvOjJauN3eu92bfUCNQyHmB6GqHm1Qw7op6nwiDBSqTUjuQZ8Mo6Ssd8Y8wX4Qq9TeugvpaQy9WuaKqer7J1DyIdxOjgHOsnQII8ubmF8Dszgj6EsmBjo3bp1EGsDPOlcNhrmrDeXAr/s1600/P1040392.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arriving into Puerto Montt, we enjoy the different architecture of the city and settled down for a few days of rest with our great host Sebastian and other cyclists</td></tr>
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Route notes:<br />
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You can see our detailed route on <a href="http://machacasonwheels.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html">here</a><br />
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- Villarrica to Puerto Fuy: the paved road from Villarrica to Lican Ray had a lot of traffic in high season, so we took parallel dirt roads almost devoid of any traffic. From Lican Ray we joined to route 201 towards Puerto Fuy via the T25 and then road 203. There´s a very good campsite (Rayan Mawiza) for 1800 pesos chilenos 3 km out of Lican Ray, on the turn off to the paragliding take off site (away from the lake) - the onwers are incredibly friendly, and have an organic garden growing every vegetable you can think of. Lican Ray to Coñaripe is paved, then all unpaved to Puerto Fuy.<br />
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The ferry crossing has three daily departures in high season, takes 1.5 h and costs 3300 pesos with the bike. To buy supplies (there are none once you make the crossing until San Martin de los Andes), Neltume seemed to have more than Puerto Fuy.<br />
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- Puerto Fuy to San Martin de los Andes: There are both Chilean and Argentinian aduanas at this crossing. A few km after the Argentinian aduanas, a 3km diversion will take you to a designated area for free camping - follow the signed turnoff for Camping Don Bartolo and then carry on over the hill. The road is unpaved and in high season carried plenty of fast moving traffic.<br />
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- San Martin de los Andes to Bariloche: The road is entirely paved now apart from a 10km section which is currently being worked on and will be paved soon. The 7 lagos route has plenty of fast moving tourist traffic, especially after 11am, but has somewhat of a shoulder and lots of cyclists, which somewhat mitigate the risks. Still, we didn´t find it pleasant. There are two designated free camping areas, one at km 48 from San Martin (Lago Villarino) and one at approximately km 80 (Lago Espejo Grande). Paid campsites in this area were around AR 100 per person but seem to rise exponentially each year.<br />
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From the junction with the international road to Bariloche, traffic picks up substantially with trucks and busses in addition to tourist traffic and there is no paved shoulder. We found this road to be extremely dangerous at least at the time of year we rode it.<br />
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- Bariloche to Puerto Montt: We took the Cruce Andino crossing to Petrohue, boats operated by Turisur. We were charged AR 846 (!!) per person for just the three boat rides. In between the first and second boat is a 3km ride, and between the 2nd and 3rd a 30km ride. It is entirely possible to reach Peulla in time to catch the last boat in the same day, but you can also choose not to rush (or in the event of a mechanical etc) and wait to catch the Peulla-Petrohue boat the next day. In Peulla, you can ask at the CONAF office to camp in their garden. The area is also house to a few great walks, one of them includes a trek up to 2000 m at the foot of Cerro Tronador - the paths starts from the Vialidad Refugio on the Chilean side (we didn´t do it, but were told is easy and very scenic)<br />
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The first 6km from Petrohue are unpaved, after which the road is paved and with a (somewhat cobled together) cycle lane the whole distance into Puerto Varas. We believe both the 5 and the smaller road via Alerce are extremely busy, and so we took unpaved roads which parallel these, starting from a turnoff signed for Colonia 3 Puentes.<br />
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<span id="goog_1530891735"></span><span id="goog_1530891736"></span><br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-17192695218857901962015-01-31T04:43:00.000+00:002015-01-31T04:43:03.838+00:00Chillan to Villarrica: Lava rubble and monkey puzzles<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
With the decision made to try to make it to Tierra del Fuego before the Patagonian winter sets in, we again found ourselves on a bus, as the roads we would have liked to take south of Santiago were too slow and we were unwilling to go on the main Panamerican highway. We arrived in Chillan in the mid-afternoon, marvelling at how much the landscape had changed since we were last on the bikes in Copiapo. </div>
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Our route South kept us off of the main roads and took us through forests, past rivers, lakes, and volcanoes. Surely there are flatter routes, but we were purposely trying to go above 1,000m to catch a glimpse of the famous monkey puzzle trees, or <i>araucarias</i>, which give their name to this region of Chile. We expected things to be easier in Chile, riding in a so-called more ´developed´ country where the altitudes were not as extreme, <i>ripio</i> roads would be better, good maps, food and wine available everywhere. However, we found more of the contrary - unpaved roads were among the worst of our journey, the hills steeper than ever before, and most low land was fenced off (making wild camping a bit more difficult). The people became more distant. Here, in the lakes region, tourism is quite developed, so you get funny looks if asking for free camping. Oh, and the heat...which rockets up to 40C and higher at this time of the year.<br />
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But, on the plus side, the scenery is incredible and new to us: snow-capped volcanoes, lakes and rivers, all in one shot, is something that got us very excited. We have also met some very generous people, who have invited us for some delicious <i>asados</i> (yes, they do have them here in Chile also), beer, wine and given us places to pitch our tent. It seems true that, like most Chilenos say, the South is different.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-859diLjcUCcmegS7zU75VfTNMp67KwKLj87gorHxJz44Q1ClzcaFEkiW5POouKKi8xjgAxIr7j866RB0D5xxXflh0C707dp47GbismbXeu4vlpJfPGlSNr_qcK5YXmrw0D9VnN3yRm5k/s1600/P1030846.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-859diLjcUCcmegS7zU75VfTNMp67KwKLj87gorHxJz44Q1ClzcaFEkiW5POouKKi8xjgAxIr7j866RB0D5xxXflh0C707dp47GbismbXeu4vlpJfPGlSNr_qcK5YXmrw0D9VnN3yRm5k/s1600/P1030846.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving Chillán on the N59 to Santa Bárbara, we realise that this road is busy, has no shoulder, and traffic is nuts. It turns out is the old Panamerican and avoids the fees of the faster route 5...so it wasn´t a great idea. At least we had the nevados de Chillán for company...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3SIgk7j_sqCbSovhUdE49XbES7vWZu0AHzYhO-UOtv_It4b1DbYmjOJMyj7nHEewmHdV81dn9pv5jZpRYwJ3bZzwtTn19YEB5Ah-j5nZN7svYTu5W98YrsmF70Dy2H5bmmWmkIuhFgyur/s1600/P1030850.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3SIgk7j_sqCbSovhUdE49XbES7vWZu0AHzYhO-UOtv_It4b1DbYmjOJMyj7nHEewmHdV81dn9pv5jZpRYwJ3bZzwtTn19YEB5Ah-j5nZN7svYTu5W98YrsmF70Dy2H5bmmWmkIuhFgyur/s1600/P1030850.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We have grown accustomed to crosses on the side of the road in South America but Chile is the first country in which we have seen ghost bikes. It was especially upsetting to see this one in a non-urban setting along the road we were riding.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz2hE3_pHvzULaaGPcHw3jJJAjOk6ut2gvGZGCP0t0kd-irs0_ThdqZVWbmgvlk98txVV23Y7qYgZ0hNPEiIBakEa4Vf4ajJXBJQkRFkQoDP7eyzCB79rIETWL1sUDhSZdCK2uZM-IJijx/s1600/P1030861.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz2hE3_pHvzULaaGPcHw3jJJAjOk6ut2gvGZGCP0t0kd-irs0_ThdqZVWbmgvlk98txVV23Y7qYgZ0hNPEiIBakEa4Vf4ajJXBJQkRFkQoDP7eyzCB79rIETWL1sUDhSZdCK2uZM-IJijx/s1600/P1030861.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But we were finally in the lakes district, and with that, a daily river swim...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxsZAPeQlShqrc8NlFN7plRsVa4f7816hM_w4p1r1qY-RT8kcjyePChuQN5BqB46aGF-TCgNyrCCAzUgVi7xs-RNsySUX6hB9dOoU4PP2tepKRFLJUaJGQ4ptWg92Llsf5qRsuHOKFLnxI/s1600/IMG_2623.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxsZAPeQlShqrc8NlFN7plRsVa4f7816hM_w4p1r1qY-RT8kcjyePChuQN5BqB46aGF-TCgNyrCCAzUgVi7xs-RNsySUX6hB9dOoU4PP2tepKRFLJUaJGQ4ptWg92Llsf5qRsuHOKFLnxI/s1600/IMG_2623.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...then moved on to celebrating our anniversary of one year on the road with some cheap boxed wine (which wasn´t that bad actually, for $1!)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMp4zV7tIXk65ty_-a50jj1yvB_4KDamCvHDayP34wtv6TapcUxtalt8VnxgYKg5FblBbjplqFiFor0H7hEWo-vPzLwuvBt_JH_Hn0HyIydvS4r5pNajqoty2SujOD_BgQpb6yvyMUWygP/s1600/P1030877.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMp4zV7tIXk65ty_-a50jj1yvB_4KDamCvHDayP34wtv6TapcUxtalt8VnxgYKg5FblBbjplqFiFor0H7hEWo-vPzLwuvBt_JH_Hn0HyIydvS4r5pNajqoty2SujOD_BgQpb6yvyMUWygP/s1600/P1030877.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The following day we arrive early at Santa Bárbara, and are pointed towards Juanita´s shop...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghNBr0XfW1bSUjF37ifZ_Gt7vkroM88D-3DGLwcUT7j1SyUpush3vYJfFv591yU1LCfcHysUFhUa7pjIDgVJkVM589J6CuI4s776ZidovlPQNkDti8kCOuvaMvuwBpH0uKEa98pDLmJBZd/s1600/P1030876.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghNBr0XfW1bSUjF37ifZ_Gt7vkroM88D-3DGLwcUT7j1SyUpush3vYJfFv591yU1LCfcHysUFhUa7pjIDgVJkVM589J6CuI4s776ZidovlPQNkDti8kCOuvaMvuwBpH0uKEa98pDLmJBZd/s1600/P1030876.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...who serves up the yuummiest emapanadas we´ve tried in Chile</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT-9NZDyMGWzmObF7CU-pdwy0D_gD9nmQvcltrYe_spXI4QkyA9l0wO4rNbCqe-a1nEzraWRZUHQPz0Q9YcsHJ4W0mrvqDLBx4DNcVuFx3TUixd3IAO3UVoYsetoeTUTkMp-7CTXuPJMyQ/s1600/P1030883.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT-9NZDyMGWzmObF7CU-pdwy0D_gD9nmQvcltrYe_spXI4QkyA9l0wO4rNbCqe-a1nEzraWRZUHQPz0Q9YcsHJ4W0mrvqDLBx4DNcVuFx3TUixd3IAO3UVoYsetoeTUTkMp-7CTXuPJMyQ/s1600/P1030883.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The road to Ralco was paved and with the help of a light tailwind we made quick progress and arrived in town early. Then carried on to camp by the river</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvzQrAdxu2i6nVBfKY63fwhGxfn6u-ABMOYSryIf4gT6IS62NKcieFrfrgOWJU1i7VQZOQJ_ZnIpDOhizW3KaO76zmEUVcFGMzgnm0CzamZuFOTPXfI3UgVweoVunpbCv2yT0wOZ3q7sVI/s1600/P1030889.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvzQrAdxu2i6nVBfKY63fwhGxfn6u-ABMOYSryIf4gT6IS62NKcieFrfrgOWJU1i7VQZOQJ_ZnIpDOhizW3KaO76zmEUVcFGMzgnm0CzamZuFOTPXfI3UgVweoVunpbCv2yT0wOZ3q7sVI/s1600/P1030889.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our route to Chenqueco follows the Rio Bio Bio.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSunLUWlD6DRdqccJz5T6SOrNsWJB_0Ywb8GTYPFebyAnJqg513We-lsCWk3y3gl-wV_xHiBvcENtkMOkD79BNYQj8ReUSgh7Lk29q20guoqMA5S-Rjho4UEyNF9FG1ib5KyDTOmKVbQrF/s1600/P1030905.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSunLUWlD6DRdqccJz5T6SOrNsWJB_0Ywb8GTYPFebyAnJqg513We-lsCWk3y3gl-wV_xHiBvcENtkMOkD79BNYQj8ReUSgh7Lk29q20guoqMA5S-Rjho4UEyNF9FG1ib5KyDTOmKVbQrF/s1600/P1030905.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In Chenqueco we stock up with some more food, camp by the pasarela that takes you on a shortcut to Lonquimay, and go to sleep...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtp2APEnEG8JGFsUu5_yuY6cRUN4h5kcu23SC0Ce8VgnSDMEq1h2GCDOcHDVy-8c3LSuTuF371gAPd8-CqhfFbl5JB7ALmPHkgQfXHcmYfNAz3_y4g6M6R2ZesRu-E47u5Zt7_pMSIR6cv/s1600/P1030909.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtp2APEnEG8JGFsUu5_yuY6cRUN4h5kcu23SC0Ce8VgnSDMEq1h2GCDOcHDVy-8c3LSuTuF371gAPd8-CqhfFbl5JB7ALmPHkgQfXHcmYfNAz3_y4g6M6R2ZesRu-E47u5Zt7_pMSIR6cv/s1600/P1030909.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...not knowing what awaited for us the following day. A rough singletrack that was so steep/rocky/sandy that required both of us working together to push the bikes up once at a time...for long periods of time, in pretty hot conditions</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2uTNlzU0yRxSvU4D0klaxpyyR7NUnG_bwmjjhfKtjNbDKyxHGji2jBQHkuw_BgF1XiVvGua-DxvV7kBca7RImtmUHxR83vFBtcEZnWhfynC4Q_4nP58DyZZT4sCNckMH35KrQBMbS_JA9/s1600/P1030919.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2uTNlzU0yRxSvU4D0klaxpyyR7NUnG_bwmjjhfKtjNbDKyxHGji2jBQHkuw_BgF1XiVvGua-DxvV7kBca7RImtmUHxR83vFBtcEZnWhfynC4Q_4nP58DyZZT4sCNckMH35KrQBMbS_JA9/s1600/P1030919.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Every time there was a hill we hoped to be able to ride it...but never materialised. It was so hot and our progress was so slow that we worried about water...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDnlRvhTjG3_GNGRFjc7f0PgLYOlFZRLadnAQUKUexGmYPrg7X51a7nQMbdp_8QPkDgm6Kae7nip43V9dIt5FQeIBbZgxHtQz0IbvcMsh-PFv-4CGyxvJDx0j18eBgy9JrYTEQUyurO8UG/s1600/IMG_2627.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDnlRvhTjG3_GNGRFjc7f0PgLYOlFZRLadnAQUKUexGmYPrg7X51a7nQMbdp_8QPkDgm6Kae7nip43V9dIt5FQeIBbZgxHtQz0IbvcMsh-PFv-4CGyxvJDx0j18eBgy9JrYTEQUyurO8UG/s1600/IMG_2627.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But luckily, just as we were wondering whether to turn around to the nearest river, we found a small stream and loaded up. One of the things we take for granted at home is water availability...On this trip we´ve come to appreciate how lucky we are to have a running tap of potable water back home</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfuNzs1jcLTwhL1xz91N3BF4Dux4Pl6a7z914QAy6DOI469TRhjNqYx0qahhNiU4xA4n037DifjeMF0iT8zqwVkzJIB9eu_1sSZU8J3pT4n9kQkyT0VRZqjcn_enaiGl-t2hfqWYpSiJNS/s1600/P1030925.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfuNzs1jcLTwhL1xz91N3BF4Dux4Pl6a7z914QAy6DOI469TRhjNqYx0qahhNiU4xA4n037DifjeMF0iT8zqwVkzJIB9eu_1sSZU8J3pT4n9kQkyT0VRZqjcn_enaiGl-t2hfqWYpSiJNS/s1600/P1030925.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It took us more than half day to climb 500 m. The descent was dusty and so had to be taken carefully...Alberto had a fall as with our worn out marathons having some decent grip was sometimes a problem</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPBC_laqCqOwk8Csxi9pqe-ffmbPwog5l_lj-sld7zL9X-egjkgabM9DFeFKQyZEpCElY1rPVf6xzxm_tPLSOc5Sg47SmibE-9Ytcbnjks-H3lTwQ6OQbI3qkIPMvEscfAH6JprTJ2unfk/s1600/P1030937.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPBC_laqCqOwk8Csxi9pqe-ffmbPwog5l_lj-sld7zL9X-egjkgabM9DFeFKQyZEpCElY1rPVf6xzxm_tPLSOc5Sg47SmibE-9Ytcbnjks-H3lTwQ6OQbI3qkIPMvEscfAH6JprTJ2unfk/s1600/P1030937.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally, 9 hours after we set off, we saw the light at the end of this tunnel, indicating the end of the 17 km section that had taken us the whole day. This was the slowest and toughest day of our journey - even the high Peruvian Andes and the Puna were far far easier than this section!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkGLoBx-0dmLhR8IW71WyCTUyjuU8jYdy5wPPIK7dD_9bPyR8HlUTJIgLHTjAh_jtF4aEjtIUz0RgtCtjrSbcuG_ALPqotoggCMzksZDfaTIgig8JefUz_84zh_dJWQBCHagl5Z6x6mY3h/s1600/IMG_2631.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkGLoBx-0dmLhR8IW71WyCTUyjuU8jYdy5wPPIK7dD_9bPyR8HlUTJIgLHTjAh_jtF4aEjtIUz0RgtCtjrSbcuG_ALPqotoggCMzksZDfaTIgig8JefUz_84zh_dJWQBCHagl5Z6x6mY3h/s1600/IMG_2631.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After much debate about leaving the route here in favour of a shorter and flatter route via Troyo, (all this in a totally shattered state) we decide to woman up and carry on on the original route past Volcan Lonquimay. We hoped the road would be better....</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifFFjyS4ChxBGjvuzE4sDDUFcS8kKwCatXdC-t_oiqumoZvNpu-ehd3ljEwhRixonYZV7ivv1w-msR4qV1Qn1nhAGfOV9CZBjplwNY69JeZU59Gqcl1i_lyWljiKjixNwsPgzPzzkMZf5y/s1600/P1030947.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifFFjyS4ChxBGjvuzE4sDDUFcS8kKwCatXdC-t_oiqumoZvNpu-ehd3ljEwhRixonYZV7ivv1w-msR4qV1Qn1nhAGfOV9CZBjplwNY69JeZU59Gqcl1i_lyWljiKjixNwsPgzPzzkMZf5y/s1600/P1030947.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and for the most part, it was, although the dirt tracks still required pushing some of the time. The cattle grids were pretty cool though!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfY8uIC1nwF_AwkJH4R1c3tUa_8ZLx93TgPr69DoLUGcIfM-IkibBz6ApQzzApgrnak7I1B4ZBiOdM87j0co0uTz5gzB63x1HclQGuP0yyICt0AqgAKuHKwwEdC7uM1_QolyFoku9OuxGZ/s1600/P1030954.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfY8uIC1nwF_AwkJH4R1c3tUa_8ZLx93TgPr69DoLUGcIfM-IkibBz6ApQzzApgrnak7I1B4ZBiOdM87j0co0uTz5gzB63x1HclQGuP0yyICt0AqgAKuHKwwEdC7uM1_QolyFoku9OuxGZ/s1600/P1030954.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...with plenty of loose powdery dirt to navigate.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLETeb-Rt8X7NIF-7ZZVOANWYCMnn7Y5pmbjsZZ6OfV74GMLBtxuNvX0dip40Ndk5sNu_-rZ3f4hom7luFwk7r0ds-GYfO8GjuG-vccuKm7K1FutcU9w4eM1RZ_aRqTgEjnAp60AoHFSJa/s1600/P1030953.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLETeb-Rt8X7NIF-7ZZVOANWYCMnn7Y5pmbjsZZ6OfV74GMLBtxuNvX0dip40Ndk5sNu_-rZ3f4hom7luFwk7r0ds-GYfO8GjuG-vccuKm7K1FutcU9w4eM1RZ_aRqTgEjnAp60AoHFSJa/s1600/P1030953.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fortunately after a brutal climb in the heat of the day, we reach pine plantations which provide some much-needed shade.</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4nNK-iEgiXDnoya38_Fwpd-fkk4rfvHZiG6nxaECNzutgLivrf-XlDdGiFY0vHT3dKO3L8etDKoEvh5ZH7JUad0ajOEjPo7hRLb0llh5RrKQU9HuHSWDMXRtwvIhWmBucy1ubfRtCT5M2/s1600/P1030962.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4nNK-iEgiXDnoya38_Fwpd-fkk4rfvHZiG6nxaECNzutgLivrf-XlDdGiFY0vHT3dKO3L8etDKoEvh5ZH7JUad0ajOEjPo7hRLb0llh5RrKQU9HuHSWDMXRtwvIhWmBucy1ubfRtCT5M2/s1600/P1030962.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and finally, after far too long, the monkey puzzle trees!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy2JS6GSyEmk_qc7noVENg1eq47LXZi5xTU10k38Fr_35W8vbfMZdsr98g_PEzftYi65aa8XSg-dJAVKBLkD2ghGMmnlHFwLGrsvtZNgxqm3GHItXEDAGPh1TPTF8OB9YYfgf0s69UfNu4/s1600/IMG_2639.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy2JS6GSyEmk_qc7noVENg1eq47LXZi5xTU10k38Fr_35W8vbfMZdsr98g_PEzftYi65aa8XSg-dJAVKBLkD2ghGMmnlHFwLGrsvtZNgxqm3GHItXEDAGPh1TPTF8OB9YYfgf0s69UfNu4/s1600/IMG_2639.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Having officially entered the Reserva Nacional Malalcahuello-Nalcas, the scenery improves even more. It´s late, we´re tired, and luckily we find an area practically begging us to camp. ´You cyclist. Me picnic area. You sleep here.´</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPZKclGH87vtGqQ7p0urhhV8RcwStIhB1PCv8RpoSQJ8TQGRajygAETmi_RuYxw2Ypry4dcw6yeQMZuGzbgidsp98dq4kGZuvIm8WbNzKa3iwv4Ah20Ba8yJribFf_cWENlaRdwP4y0lcE/s1600/P1030971.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPZKclGH87vtGqQ7p0urhhV8RcwStIhB1PCv8RpoSQJ8TQGRajygAETmi_RuYxw2Ypry4dcw6yeQMZuGzbgidsp98dq4kGZuvIm8WbNzKa3iwv4Ah20Ba8yJribFf_cWENlaRdwP4y0lcE/s1600/P1030971.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our camp spot overlooks a gorgeous green lake. </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoWGw6eZEZHldC3_dphht-IhCzXV65LZI5T9ZaOpHwck6L4tyxPX2_OwQDkMV3eS48NJSobZviShX835kzpPexiw-jfGWLkib8b6hLWs_KzRM8PxGXWVAuRaA9xwlCkQHZwqM3nd5sTZ5C/s1600/P1030979.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoWGw6eZEZHldC3_dphht-IhCzXV65LZI5T9ZaOpHwck6L4tyxPX2_OwQDkMV3eS48NJSobZviShX835kzpPexiw-jfGWLkib8b6hLWs_KzRM8PxGXWVAuRaA9xwlCkQHZwqM3nd5sTZ5C/s1600/P1030979.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the downside, we can´t actually reach it to swim. After some tough days fighting the polvo the technical term to describe our state is ´gross´.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY1amLen0RtQkERqTYsXatLHDIdf4Y7sKs6lYjDNXPGKd5A9yDlfMEqdxPtIOn3rJW_fMg98BATAiCECeL6vNemzyliqOIm0kr7f24yVz9jFZqSIZmVOjQM_9umtPhgphNwyk2I8_ean64/s1600/IMG_2651.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY1amLen0RtQkERqTYsXatLHDIdf4Y7sKs6lYjDNXPGKd5A9yDlfMEqdxPtIOn3rJW_fMg98BATAiCECeL6vNemzyliqOIm0kr7f24yVz9jFZqSIZmVOjQM_9umtPhgphNwyk2I8_ean64/s1600/IMG_2651.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The next day features more tough climbs, but the views are spectacular, climbing up through the lava field of Volcan Longquimay´s past eruption. Volcano Tolhuaca is on the right (2806 m, and nowadays an inactive volcano)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI-sfYJIFGnKcrLbA9wjk0aJRPmxi28b3hQs5MyDmaVGaXqJhHKZtWOhVFoo32fLdK7OoLQ0SO0lybRgY-vlAsGkMXD8ueZDLJoU8tSd1DOrlgkgm6HbcJIKNY7fyzQ5iRaGaOKXKMaPIN/s1600/P1030989.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI-sfYJIFGnKcrLbA9wjk0aJRPmxi28b3hQs5MyDmaVGaXqJhHKZtWOhVFoo32fLdK7OoLQ0SO0lybRgY-vlAsGkMXD8ueZDLJoU8tSd1DOrlgkgm6HbcJIKNY7fyzQ5iRaGaOKXKMaPIN/s1600/P1030989.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monkey puzzles up close, and the volcano Lonquimay in the background</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgInN-5ltWP1A_ctDt_-Yo9198Ptob4JrvfS0NCJZXkBuM3L8pK3Gvk5JHVLGYhgvOznvL_T_QlAORmMIFE6PUg4dxP7a0jvucMrWkjdICeU8klQtt7bLR1j4QNvEopPWnjFiZQ-rVC1gii/s1600/P1030997.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgInN-5ltWP1A_ctDt_-Yo9198Ptob4JrvfS0NCJZXkBuM3L8pK3Gvk5JHVLGYhgvOznvL_T_QlAORmMIFE6PUg4dxP7a0jvucMrWkjdICeU8klQtt7bLR1j4QNvEopPWnjFiZQ-rVC1gii/s1600/P1030997.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We are glad to be tackling this unforgiving landscape in the morning, before the worst of the heat sets in.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtVjwOZMPaA8PUeOTxIAIhrNdlXQ6_j_CCclzngNiPpOCRGUJZ9rOZRNlT1NxfbPKxyW1VQbuRnIYaRrmgWPqNlvVgcoQ1AuaKpDKx2LvE0mUT0U-7uszjw75FTWacz-AminEvG54YQVw3/s1600/P1040015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtVjwOZMPaA8PUeOTxIAIhrNdlXQ6_j_CCclzngNiPpOCRGUJZ9rOZRNlT1NxfbPKxyW1VQbuRnIYaRrmgWPqNlvVgcoQ1AuaKpDKx2LvE0mUT0U-7uszjw75FTWacz-AminEvG54YQVw3/s1600/P1040015.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Before we know it, we reach the top of the pass at almost 1900 m. Lonquimay <i>vs. </i>Lucy</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWQpS_RCUWRXla3RhTz5WdsP5cPEML-JnyWCf2t1y2W-WydTsyZ8iZhivOeGArMvRZjltVPRwpuzgcA9FmpvBVe9u1LwKvUhdzR-Pm0pszDgRFheegqZsrhvOC8dqpGBCdig2Cyf4eiNRA/s1600/P1040022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWQpS_RCUWRXla3RhTz5WdsP5cPEML-JnyWCf2t1y2W-WydTsyZ8iZhivOeGArMvRZjltVPRwpuzgcA9FmpvBVe9u1LwKvUhdzR-Pm0pszDgRFheegqZsrhvOC8dqpGBCdig2Cyf4eiNRA/s1600/P1040022.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We take the halfway-paved descent to Malalcahuello where the CONAF (National Parks) guys tell us they saw us struggling up the climb as they drove past this morning. They kindly let us camp in the boss´ yard and make use of all their facilities in their office. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdlHOGqk8cLws5D9_AkQAo_XE2Bqp5Qv69QYeupR0U8ca-FbeG8Olwtjiw_dtiMiht7ioP9vZovTUc4EMSVLD9aIuVSeIR6fmfSEea-bpdd1npzeIas1CCTo2MFjepqYyQK06vL4D4agbY/s1600/P1040039.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdlHOGqk8cLws5D9_AkQAo_XE2Bqp5Qv69QYeupR0U8ca-FbeG8Olwtjiw_dtiMiht7ioP9vZovTUc4EMSVLD9aIuVSeIR6fmfSEea-bpdd1npzeIas1CCTo2MFjepqYyQK06vL4D4agbY/s1600/P1040039.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The next day we take a small diversion to pass the Salto de la Princesa on our way to Curacautin</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuZEZyRjBywUygadrLFu-Hd1w1vw7QA01dlWFvX55kephWXj9qBVTokncRrULo6DTGZnt6zahcnlLDJudzPac4HH5GZZVFT0WhwBvl_vjapWMhg379F4BEGjIp1TOnfBDKZNCZYGex26_0/s1600/P1040046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuZEZyRjBywUygadrLFu-Hd1w1vw7QA01dlWFvX55kephWXj9qBVTokncRrULo6DTGZnt6zahcnlLDJudzPac4HH5GZZVFT0WhwBvl_vjapWMhg379F4BEGjIp1TOnfBDKZNCZYGex26_0/s1600/P1040046.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">and then begin to make our way towards Conguillio national park. A kind local paramedic lets us camp behind the Posta de Salud on the roadside. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglkWO_kalJKJk_5GvXRIl048MlLadIzrbvRv_ywf6VwvOrabK8duZ7ux2zvkx1eNcHXGlQ9tp7Qq5OtPRMLzaUqvTQ0CHLwPm9xy2H_0hi6QVvCdjZv7FK7jkkNe-r76fQ9SYZwosFTDmk/s1600/P1040053.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglkWO_kalJKJk_5GvXRIl048MlLadIzrbvRv_ywf6VwvOrabK8duZ7ux2zvkx1eNcHXGlQ9tp7Qq5OtPRMLzaUqvTQ0CHLwPm9xy2H_0hi6QVvCdjZv7FK7jkkNe-r76fQ9SYZwosFTDmk/s1600/P1040053.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The road to the park is busy with traffic on this summer weekend, so at the last minute we decide to divert and go around the West side of Volcan Longquimay rather than the East. Meters after the turnoff we are immediately rewarded with this view of Longquimay and its lava flow from a past eruption in the 1980s.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqEkkexKzS-kZ_JIbkD_YxTVrduCmsz0Adk23-qzhMXQpuF_3zQOiTppVEC1MhXzto_C7k747leOszx2lH_tENDzeW5UUiTOZeC-PyKtgBwim8GCvpKfbb_Xy7yC5httXi7D0tQeppZj6-/s1600/P1040060.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqEkkexKzS-kZ_JIbkD_YxTVrduCmsz0Adk23-qzhMXQpuF_3zQOiTppVEC1MhXzto_C7k747leOszx2lH_tENDzeW5UUiTOZeC-PyKtgBwim8GCvpKfbb_Xy7yC5httXi7D0tQeppZj6-/s1600/P1040060.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Longquimay is one of Chile´s most active volcanoes. Currently on yellow alert. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrls1ZY90jnsLcYAQ37CNkCPbEX_aUPXDW2nBYstaHvkEollLAIwc9v1nvVtF-ZYWZU7NkuFVRLNqCV8mwn6HqfA-Q7zBPX79ddvkhEJISM0XvVTuuMFIO0Y1NXH2yxzFdN5B2epzRWuFB/s1600/P1040078.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrls1ZY90jnsLcYAQ37CNkCPbEX_aUPXDW2nBYstaHvkEollLAIwc9v1nvVtF-ZYWZU7NkuFVRLNqCV8mwn6HqfA-Q7zBPX79ddvkhEJISM0XvVTuuMFIO0Y1NXH2yxzFdN5B2epzRWuFB/s1600/P1040078.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We climb back up into monkey puzzle territory. I don´t know if we´ll ever get tired of these guys. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhePOHwbJL7Jp2cbhhr7EOTA1ThKDGHzxN4_ZNIETPqVjQ3sFbVpMPll17xNonI6u99exYtTN-plIHXGPrh4QvXgII5Kqtn6LhZIwzHR-rsRSX-cc66N_mLDcMYn9VpDNJ07rM0YFxLEYpE/s1600/P1040087.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhePOHwbJL7Jp2cbhhr7EOTA1ThKDGHzxN4_ZNIETPqVjQ3sFbVpMPll17xNonI6u99exYtTN-plIHXGPrh4QvXgII5Kqtn6LhZIwzHR-rsRSX-cc66N_mLDcMYn9VpDNJ07rM0YFxLEYpE/s1600/P1040087.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We pass briefly through Conguillio National Park, though not on the main route, and a park ranger lets us know about a river where people sometimes camp for free. We head there and meet some Chilenos on vacation making an asado, who offer us some pork, homemade bread, and drinks. We could get used to touring in Chilean vacation spots!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Y1haLcJqIxeq7XKcsLmWcwNWYtquHwn9s-bvQgD4Myz9O36d7phnqfvtYV276y-MNAkj_Z3Fn9frn8uxEwKZGdfOP_Qs-lALd4HQQ3fDNRFvJXI31wtXiIIO0G9mFn3X106y9mlNlJBV/s1600/IMG_2674.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Y1haLcJqIxeq7XKcsLmWcwNWYtquHwn9s-bvQgD4Myz9O36d7phnqfvtYV276y-MNAkj_Z3Fn9frn8uxEwKZGdfOP_Qs-lALd4HQQ3fDNRFvJXI31wtXiIIO0G9mFn3X106y9mlNlJBV/s1600/IMG_2674.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The next day we face more crazy heat and steep hills, but we are glad to be on quiet gravel roads so can´t really complain. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj8FrBtfpgDkCRE2n_gss-4-LNWZZElEOtv1fnRS4jXOr9Sqg5g8d6hN83bITqTldVhXQ12UJ-LZTPKE0uJZ9CbOABiKYSLxfdWY_nnYxs7m6mGvvHWZL2JBfsxblTneD80FjNWe6eYu89/s1600/P1040089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj8FrBtfpgDkCRE2n_gss-4-LNWZZElEOtv1fnRS4jXOr9Sqg5g8d6hN83bITqTldVhXQ12UJ-LZTPKE0uJZ9CbOABiKYSLxfdWY_nnYxs7m6mGvvHWZL2JBfsxblTneD80FjNWe6eYu89/s1600/P1040089.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We look for every opportunity to take a dip in the (usually freezing) rivers to refresh ourselves and clean the dust off our legs. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnuaGusjxxh_Eh0UsmK6zMI9cLkJPG11yCZrmGk-wxOyyL7WGQMn-mofLl5VyqnHJ0jIkQ6clGMu9levNWN83Nt7GkEYK-_HRmHNIDlOOq0b316vUSHURT0i-4iE5SWfn6hyphenhyphenjOUWVi4GU4/s1600/P1040100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnuaGusjxxh_Eh0UsmK6zMI9cLkJPG11yCZrmGk-wxOyyL7WGQMn-mofLl5VyqnHJ0jIkQ6clGMu9levNWN83Nt7GkEYK-_HRmHNIDlOOq0b316vUSHURT0i-4iE5SWfn6hyphenhyphenjOUWVi4GU4/s1600/P1040100.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another riverside camp, another Chileno family feeding us food, and another short day´s ride and we arrive in Villarrica, a touristy town that has absolutely zero charm, lots of US-style cars and 4x4s, but at least has awesome views of Volcan Villarrica. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHYCIxwff0YGWo3jM_NlBpFl8VxdYaa6T1dFH1QCLQru9laGLqPW0WVeLdXT_YazThbx-lYAdB9Q208jorflTIQH1Idq9cmVxV0Qi3xjJE5NatbACt2QOspZgH03kcUGZzA5oikHdo7jk6/s1600/P1040103.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHYCIxwff0YGWo3jM_NlBpFl8VxdYaa6T1dFH1QCLQru9laGLqPW0WVeLdXT_YazThbx-lYAdB9Q208jorflTIQH1Idq9cmVxV0Qi3xjJE5NatbACt2QOspZgH03kcUGZzA5oikHdo7jk6/s1600/P1040103.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The truth is, after a tough route we did need a rest day, even if it was an expensive and pretty bland place to take it. Then got some yummy empanadas, of the fried variety...</td></tr>
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Route notes:<br />
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- Chillan to Ralco: The road from Chillan to Quilleco was busier than we hoped, but we found Chilean drivers to be more respectful than other countries. The road is paved to Quilleco, after which a good ripio road takes you to Santa Barbara (there is a good free river camping spot at the bridge crossing the river about 10-15km out of Quilleco). There is free wifi in the plaza in Santa Barbara. From Santa Barbara to Ralco we followed the main paved road, although we believe there is a dirt alternative on the other side of the river. Traffic levels were acceptable though not truly low.<br />
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- Ralco to Malalcahuello: We followed the GPS track and route info from <a href="http://www.pedalingnowhere.com/routes/bike-touring-araucania-monkey-puzzle-trail-chile/">Pedalling Nowhere</a>. We have left detailed comments on the route page, but suffice to say this route is more recommended for people with a lighter-weight setup than us, or potentially with our setup if going South to North. On the descent from Volcan Lonquimay we diverted from the route, turning left to Malalcahuello. Paving starts halfway down the descent and continues to Malalcahuello. The CONAF office is located on the right just before you reach the town of Malalcahuello, and staff there are often happy to let you camp if you have been or are going to the Reserva.<br />
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- Malalcahuello to Villarrica: There is a traffic free bike path from Malalcahuello to Manzanar, although at some point it starts to criss cross the road through a lot of gates so we gave up and went onto the road. Traffic was not too bad and again, generally respectful. From Curacautin, pavement lasts another 10km or so. We found the road to be quite busy with cars heading to Conguillio National Park.<br />
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A signed turnoff for the Ruta Interlagos takes you on the much quieter Western side of the Volcano. There is one steep section of loose rocks which required pushing but otherwise the road is okay ripio. This road does enter the national park for about 5km and there is a park ranger stationed as you exit the park (if coming from the North). We were informed that no one, bicycle or car, has to pay the entrance fee if they are just using the road to transit through. On the main road through the park (which has controls at both sides) cars are given one hour to traverse the park without paying. The ranger we spoke to said that if a cyclist said they just wanted to pass though to Melipeuco then a more reasonable time limit would be given.<br />
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This road is unpaved until you hit the more main road heading to Cunco. From Cunco we took a route via Lago Colico hoping to avoid the main traffic, which worked pretty well. It is paved for about 10km until a signed turnoff for Villarrica. The route thereafter is unpaved until Pedregoso (a small town with just a basic snack shop), where it is paved again but still not too busy until Villarrica.<br />
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Albertohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15789158563391048740noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-21002577981666523622015-01-21T15:11:00.000+00:002015-01-21T15:11:07.212+00:00Santiago and Valparaiso: a city break from the bikes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Taking the beautiful Paso San Francisco through the Puna had its drawbacks... We ended up in the mining town of Copiapo, where basically, you either take the dusty and dry coastal paths, or you put your life in the hands of some nut drivers on the route 5 (the Panamerican highway). There's also other options, like heading back to Argentina via the more remote Paso Pircas Negras, or further South on Aguas Negras. But the clock was ticking for us if we wanted to reach Patagonia in the good season...so opted for the fastest alternative of all: a bus down to Santiago.</div>
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Arriving in Santiago for New Years wasn't really our initial plan, but it all panned out OK. Our great warmshowers host met us in the centre of town, and directed us on the busy Santiago roads to her house, where we based ourselves for a few days of rest, good eating (and wine drinking, this is Chile after all, and wine is cheaper than most other stuff here) and route planning. We also managed to sneak in a visit to Valparaiso, which surprised us with its impressive street art. It also helped that we had great hosts there, who showed us around the most interesting and often less-visited sights. So this blog post is to say muuuchas gracias to Grimme (our host in Santiago) and Meagan and Jaime (in Viña/Valparaiso).</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arriving early in Santiago on New Years eve, we take a stroll until our host can meet us</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Then head over to the barrio Paris/Londres and pretend to be back at home (as in London, UK)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On one of the days, an old friend of Lucy´s takes us up to cerro San Cristóbal, a must-do in Santiago, which offers great views of this manic city</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eleven years after they were in high school together, Sergio picks us up and shows us around Santiago for the day.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Both our host Grimme and her mom Maria Olivia are keen urban cyclists. Maria Olivia takes us on a cultural (40 km!) trip around Santiago, learning about the history of the city along the way. Muchas gracias and for that huge pint of Austral at the end too!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We keep seeing similarities between Chile and the UK. This was confirmed once again when we had two egg baps with black tea, for just a <i>luca</i> (1000 pesos chilenos, or 1.6 USD)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Maria Olivia on some of the quieter streets of Ñuñoa</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Santiaguinos are rapidly adopting the bike for urban commuting, yet a lot of work has to be done: the city is crazy busy with traffic, and there´s plenty of fast "highways" everywhere you go. There are plenty of cycle lanes, but they don´t connect in any kind of network, which makes them impractical to use. Definitely one of the worst cities for cycling we´ve seen... We´ve not seen bikes with an engine since Colombia!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Santiago is also known for its Mercado Central, serving cheap seafood. Not the best but at 5 USD a plate one can´t complain!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It was so hot sometimes, that we seek refuge in the old railway near the centre - Chile had some good train infrastructure back in the day. Unfortunately, like most of the other South American countries, this was replaced by the private car...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As market suckers that we are, we could not leave Santiago without going to its main food feria in Barrio Brasil. Yummy fruit for half the price of what you would normally pay!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Veg in a bag</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A visit to the centre of Chile isn´t complete with one to Valparaiso so there we went</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We started the tour with a walk through its famous steep hills. Meagan, left, was our superb guide and host! Cheers for that!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Then moved on to street art...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4zBYYOOX71HgH4T2SJ7Vu4F89pCgprPiwyk9PxC5fAddBx6KfcGNCTlfaLmsJgxX9kd2gxhaHd0rwWvijLFnoCPFVcNcLlOzVM6EwLjNeHs5EpPzaXscwB0rBtoABSDSvPm-Jy3HAcrvD/s1600/P1030722.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4zBYYOOX71HgH4T2SJ7Vu4F89pCgprPiwyk9PxC5fAddBx6KfcGNCTlfaLmsJgxX9kd2gxhaHd0rwWvijLFnoCPFVcNcLlOzVM6EwLjNeHs5EpPzaXscwB0rBtoABSDSvPm-Jy3HAcrvD/s1600/P1030722.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Street art merges with chatotic steep streets</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGql9AKd9C3N1vdlRJg7B_DAIaM4M8Z7Hurhc6BMJp-dGjFOEhgE3jm3Wp3zCcDB5t9bvVz9LNY1EDWYLSqEIRT6fz6C-UnNYr9fP-bQmkoQT2Bg4Q_hQX03-BEfvYv3IVgqkkLx2KTSPe/s1600/P1030727.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGql9AKd9C3N1vdlRJg7B_DAIaM4M8Z7Hurhc6BMJp-dGjFOEhgE3jm3Wp3zCcDB5t9bvVz9LNY1EDWYLSqEIRT6fz6C-UnNYr9fP-bQmkoQT2Bg4Q_hQX03-BEfvYv3IVgqkkLx2KTSPe/s1600/P1030727.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqQZZYjEwXIH5zeqnEu5xvFaDkryOKKL81SULwGZwlHpJogQ1Mu6kJmRprnCsRF_BPl7J6VGILBOBsnD7QTiMUlK7Z3tJ6AVuKH5Lk8SAM0PYDomVj91b2iKKWHeryMOGAtYFMyDvYqu1g/s1600/P1030741.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqQZZYjEwXIH5zeqnEu5xvFaDkryOKKL81SULwGZwlHpJogQ1Mu6kJmRprnCsRF_BPl7J6VGILBOBsnD7QTiMUlK7Z3tJ6AVuKH5Lk8SAM0PYDomVj91b2iKKWHeryMOGAtYFMyDvYqu1g/s1600/P1030741.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We loved the varied architecture of Valpo too.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz3AAd6o7dLcrBqa0d7dLi97vf5ytDTSNUnkj_cud-udbU7r6HNv86W-XQ2fA7Gq-jixdheBW-VGSOV7dCTGzPNZ74aNy-ZHooAsdIkyY8eGl-MdlR_CDvxWdZGjgTp-M76n_7vfoaNIyp/s1600/P1030746.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz3AAd6o7dLcrBqa0d7dLi97vf5ytDTSNUnkj_cud-udbU7r6HNv86W-XQ2fA7Gq-jixdheBW-VGSOV7dCTGzPNZ74aNy-ZHooAsdIkyY8eGl-MdlR_CDvxWdZGjgTp-M76n_7vfoaNIyp/s1600/P1030746.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The street art came with all types of styles and subjects. An art lover´s paradise. </td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBTVQC28VBumYUk0s524NziUnxbVH2Bkt7iMwfzYagOZybiznDhZHHgujoLv2IJFyHqeNbf9_JdCjmVHsNakeeT3DSSsxarwE4RV96jQygXYd2_7-X-oqIIlxBfyIsLI5ESpYTfo1Bi1-z/s1600/P1030753.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBTVQC28VBumYUk0s524NziUnxbVH2Bkt7iMwfzYagOZybiznDhZHHgujoLv2IJFyHqeNbf9_JdCjmVHsNakeeT3DSSsxarwE4RV96jQygXYd2_7-X-oqIIlxBfyIsLI5ESpYTfo1Bi1-z/s1600/P1030753.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Near the above monument to the toilet we found some USD toilet paper.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVBWJR9r-3Mb1exkRP558LuagFo0aiYJMnVsmNTY7OlWHlVxw6B0Ye7YKQ3xImAQiD4uodptxmFJMlqjuRhCNF_g0x0KFR073z12_Qf9Z_zMerEtYDvYb0jDD6hczEyQidCUZpSdjQzqKB/s1600/P1030750.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVBWJR9r-3Mb1exkRP558LuagFo0aiYJMnVsmNTY7OlWHlVxw6B0Ye7YKQ3xImAQiD4uodptxmFJMlqjuRhCNF_g0x0KFR073z12_Qf9Z_zMerEtYDvYb0jDD6hczEyQidCUZpSdjQzqKB/s1600/P1030750.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We are always pleased when bicycles pop up in the street art!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjXSh2fHji4ec4hWr4BJevKiyRJtqqoTYRrRyeVEtqA3GQm9T_k0RL7Qss_JJktLRi1es3dt8mWF5mLiAJYxlcaKxI262MFlxCQRUm4bb88-p9-ro-A4ivYqh3A8R9kgPiUO34gWxKYbA5/s1600/P1030754.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjXSh2fHji4ec4hWr4BJevKiyRJtqqoTYRrRyeVEtqA3GQm9T_k0RL7Qss_JJktLRi1es3dt8mWF5mLiAJYxlcaKxI262MFlxCQRUm4bb88-p9-ro-A4ivYqh3A8R9kgPiUO34gWxKYbA5/s1600/P1030754.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the famous ascensores to get people up the hills</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPn4lEaXUEnc2xXcOhaHRPdRogb5nlsrkEtrtI9B48PY3sc1OXNqCbfo10XzE4zSyxIdGnxGz_VSTUmmEKGnSx_rIAufnhgDfMVxZLgYUa8NC86yp6_EcEEpU5bqnXAhrnFSVaJE8vmEBt/s1600/P1030755.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPn4lEaXUEnc2xXcOhaHRPdRogb5nlsrkEtrtI9B48PY3sc1OXNqCbfo10XzE4zSyxIdGnxGz_VSTUmmEKGnSx_rIAufnhgDfMVxZLgYUa8NC86yp6_EcEEpU5bqnXAhrnFSVaJE8vmEBt/s1600/P1030755.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This one is Alberto´s favourite: Blessed are the obedient herd</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqhEE9vLzoZPFLuiBWXTikHeXt-38ZBpD0OkOMfVd3CkuAB_Jbu18z02aky3eMcC68Ndxzp82HVtcXJMHVaNG13ie_fFhUSb55NImiQ8JfyKFWbaQWUipIUXIPDe4YHVtPHBrIWAdqLLdC/s1600/P1030757.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqhEE9vLzoZPFLuiBWXTikHeXt-38ZBpD0OkOMfVd3CkuAB_Jbu18z02aky3eMcC68Ndxzp82HVtcXJMHVaNG13ie_fFhUSb55NImiQ8JfyKFWbaQWUipIUXIPDe4YHVtPHBrIWAdqLLdC/s1600/P1030757.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the other side of the above mural</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More bicycles</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1n6PQ4TbylcP1GofTe3qr8oKLav5lLjXJDhIZynhxPxgmKX4Z-HtASS0PgNXZLPhK5UtrfgRrxjimA4pQ_7Z8CIgN8suBpMrupHnQXRiv3frgVKpAKpeK8OKCr71r2zarf12XsWy-NZi7/s1600/P1030778.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1n6PQ4TbylcP1GofTe3qr8oKLav5lLjXJDhIZynhxPxgmKX4Z-HtASS0PgNXZLPhK5UtrfgRrxjimA4pQ_7Z8CIgN8suBpMrupHnQXRiv3frgVKpAKpeK8OKCr71r2zarf12XsWy-NZi7/s1600/P1030778.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We loved this mural depicting Valpo in all its glory.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLXQ6uExD9HMfRc_uzQuxBo13rz-AtPtVQjf-pXlZF8UToLP9mLE7NUbvbhetPzlaUfLu7hNXYA55TcSQNSw9hHpuijqLfpvbw7SEMkiefwQLc-dR9x0yniBj0v9OeXOLhavL6_6OCDqmA/s1600/P1030779.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLXQ6uExD9HMfRc_uzQuxBo13rz-AtPtVQjf-pXlZF8UToLP9mLE7NUbvbhetPzlaUfLu7hNXYA55TcSQNSw9hHpuijqLfpvbw7SEMkiefwQLc-dR9x0yniBj0v9OeXOLhavL6_6OCDqmA/s1600/P1030779.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc1AH_KA7AYKX9NLKahQRB1xcS9lLbVH8D8zORdxsskLk-uZzRibf9aXQTD-nKSNkwjlj8ljGTgFKEx3NPEGYYooNkfC7Ole196xDQc_b5rCU96ehEF2aPcTKlpKmCRJe2mg7Z99gODhmI/s1600/P1030794.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc1AH_KA7AYKX9NLKahQRB1xcS9lLbVH8D8zORdxsskLk-uZzRibf9aXQTD-nKSNkwjlj8ljGTgFKEx3NPEGYYooNkfC7Ole196xDQc_b5rCU96ehEF2aPcTKlpKmCRJe2mg7Z99gODhmI/s1600/P1030794.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXvu-rBKefEiNryfmHLXjuIV6LTTFWyZ2OS8kRh2m_dXEXphuv9ZOTFZIpsTHsCAJgbHTGzu3HgEoat55Kfrnm6ZzyHTR-G3PdT-L1WOtticWu_lv1XhzUtzNt2fasEHnVLiY5PvQ3y4ch/s1600/P1030795.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXvu-rBKefEiNryfmHLXjuIV6LTTFWyZ2OS8kRh2m_dXEXphuv9ZOTFZIpsTHsCAJgbHTGzu3HgEoat55Kfrnm6ZzyHTR-G3PdT-L1WOtticWu_lv1XhzUtzNt2fasEHnVLiY5PvQ3y4ch/s1600/P1030795.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Check out those stairs!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOISs3bbMhJu8FPN6hcartHAV1hkOJXX-zlQRvLTebvoUifp68Ug3DREUvw7r7NGQCvasTQiGW3Yk8QM5-YDGCw20x9VIB8RIOvLzMjb8m15ucyltNRdwazuNC35XTn0jLa7DZRp-ohoKM/s1600/P1030797.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOISs3bbMhJu8FPN6hcartHAV1hkOJXX-zlQRvLTebvoUifp68Ug3DREUvw7r7NGQCvasTQiGW3Yk8QM5-YDGCw20x9VIB8RIOvLzMjb8m15ucyltNRdwazuNC35XTn0jLa7DZRp-ohoKM/s1600/P1030797.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It´s been a long time since we last saw tall bikes!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ8X1baH2AR0FuohIB8tZq8NsYXdNCq7dXAPlaNEUkkCfRVu0_nEDZxfWpPz291Rq-CrJkRDd-zoaSX21qy8gknABiJoAM_nNvWNQKfxfKykua8tcQf1Kg_VTwk9NHjCxVSlBVXC8jCshq/s1600/P1030807.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ8X1baH2AR0FuohIB8tZq8NsYXdNCq7dXAPlaNEUkkCfRVu0_nEDZxfWpPz291Rq-CrJkRDd-zoaSX21qy8gknABiJoAM_nNvWNQKfxfKykua8tcQf1Kg_VTwk9NHjCxVSlBVXC8jCshq/s1600/P1030807.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We also went to the dunes next to Concón, near Viña del Mar, and enjoyed great views of the Pacific. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGyr20c3uDedCBnXYyMfYF652Ps1yV25rKE6ghBzB3lCvFWQPryXxMAVvuwDeFWy8OqEhyyUhgCX6dA8DO3abfrJUTsRTd7lT6I1nG-XZtYl0NeO1onMIo4UWYEvGQ0kX8CP3lgSvg4_ei/s1600/P1030824.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGyr20c3uDedCBnXYyMfYF652Ps1yV25rKE6ghBzB3lCvFWQPryXxMAVvuwDeFWy8OqEhyyUhgCX6dA8DO3abfrJUTsRTd7lT6I1nG-XZtYl0NeO1onMIo4UWYEvGQ0kX8CP3lgSvg4_ei/s1600/P1030824.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Then tried to be a bit creative playing with the sand, and Alberto´s tan lines (it wasn´t dirt, mom, I promise)</td></tr>
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After a good week or so in the Santiago and Valparaíso area, we still didn´t really have any good options for riding south quickly. So, onto another bus to get us to Chillan, just above the Chilean lakes district, where we could finally get to riding again and hopefully pick up some lost momentum.<br />
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Notes:<br />
We were warned that getting our bikes onto busses in Chile was more complicated than in other countries in South America. The usual custom is to negotiate with the drivers about the fee they want to charge you for taking them. This can be stressful but in the end it worked out ok for us. In our case, on both bus trips we were able to negotiate down to CHP 5,000 for the two of them.Albertohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15789158563391048740noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-53108064753747783122015-01-21T03:33:00.000+00:002015-01-21T03:33:08.956+00:00Fiambalá to Copiapó via Paso San Francisco: (P)una locura (Christmas in the Puna)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We arrived into Fiambalá with some pretty serious wind. Probably the worst wind we´ve ever encountered in any of our bike travels. Worried that we would encounter similar conditions up in the Puna, we waited, spoke to Jonson at the tourist information, who organises all the climbing expeditions in the area, and decided to take a couple of days off while the wind abated. <a href="http://www.mountain-forecast.com/">The Mountain Forecast website</a> provided some valuable information and a likely weather window that was good for both climbers and cyclists... Yet in Fiambalá, the wind was still howling every day, sometimes all day, and for a couple of times we debated whether to turn around and ride more of the Ruta 40...</div>
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But then, the 40 is also prone to winds and is incredibly hot at this time of the year. We made up our mind, bought supplies for 8 days and got our bikes ready...with perhaps way too much bread like the first picture shows. Another good reason to go back up to the Puna, apart from the lovely colors, was to spend Christmas relatively far from civilisation, surely the first of this type for us. But also, having lost all our acclimmatisation in recent weeks, we planned for a rather chilled out 4-day climb that took us from 1500 m to 4750 m, definitely the longest single climb of our lives. Una locura (or Puna locura!), like an Argentinian driver shouted at us when he saw us pushing downhill on the awful Chilean <i>ripio</i> on the way to the Laguna Verde...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiX-tNxSUhMUg4BUVSOQQByjgh8PvnSOCScgbaAmLzCTWX6HCRO7ObVbVxWnUOhGE4aBBzggeXRuGVc7xp0-U6qCf8EVUDxa2zjyO7ZlmIE8BFpTrjsyU4dKmxVytom5Kbm1m-v3Z8vxRM/s1600/IMG_2410.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiX-tNxSUhMUg4BUVSOQQByjgh8PvnSOCScgbaAmLzCTWX6HCRO7ObVbVxWnUOhGE4aBBzggeXRuGVc7xp0-U6qCf8EVUDxa2zjyO7ZlmIE8BFpTrjsyU4dKmxVytom5Kbm1m-v3Z8vxRM/s1600/IMG_2410.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No front panniers means all the weight goes in the back of Lucy´s bike. The panadería en Fiambalá makes some rather good bread that´s popular within the climbing groups as it doesn´t really go stale - we took advantage and bought more than 3 kg of it!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqBdouE9sUeybOzJ8S9ZE_SL9lofAvO2SqRrkuq_rCcRykcibKian4yrHV820tn-KO6t_1uiJfOKyBLs-Tw8FIIjPf7Cth3qvt6lkjtgtsm6an1-45O_KLXsnru4ANRaXvf8K7b_U8krUg/s1600/P1030478.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqBdouE9sUeybOzJ8S9ZE_SL9lofAvO2SqRrkuq_rCcRykcibKian4yrHV820tn-KO6t_1uiJfOKyBLs-Tw8FIIjPf7Cth3qvt6lkjtgtsm6an1-45O_KLXsnru4ANRaXvf8K7b_U8krUg/s1600/P1030478.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Only 200 km separate us from Chile. The road is quiet, of great quality, and (on this day, at least) there´s no wind! What´s not to like!?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj72iOIXNEbmJ7gchA8zzpTRh_xTu34vMR3X0vZCAps7kejBmov5BFgBj1KhE6g5HI5cJn3h4TRSUTX7iCMGDC9r6CtOfSs3WiYuK7f8fbxrXb_NmIN4BptY3O30hAok1B0C85NfmhCn_l5/s1600/IMG_2412.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj72iOIXNEbmJ7gchA8zzpTRh_xTu34vMR3X0vZCAps7kejBmov5BFgBj1KhE6g5HI5cJn3h4TRSUTX7iCMGDC9r6CtOfSs3WiYuK7f8fbxrXb_NmIN4BptY3O30hAok1B0C85NfmhCn_l5/s1600/IMG_2412.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We climb up, up, up through the desert landscape.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhupP-qlv5g25I4gkBdk07yvc0ZM2V-TYm4oWOOFYEhYR_DnrXgITOiHjYSaqD-AogFcEwR0guamZl7SsEuj7CdGwdpviwWBuYUgNR22e4NydnhWpILNfsZbe9XU_5L15l9EEb8lutuCFt_/s1600/P1030480.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhupP-qlv5g25I4gkBdk07yvc0ZM2V-TYm4oWOOFYEhYR_DnrXgITOiHjYSaqD-AogFcEwR0guamZl7SsEuj7CdGwdpviwWBuYUgNR22e4NydnhWpILNfsZbe9XU_5L15l9EEb8lutuCFt_/s1600/P1030480.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As ever in the Andes, altitude dictates what grows in the land. While we climbed away from Fiambalá, we even see some vineyards...in the desert, and at 1800 m. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOwux1tUiqc0A83gAPlYMKXYZc-OV1j3Xe5PBzPox4Xay-tE5EmLPxQRl29SSHCRiVDIE3ToKS7k63wtJ-olRuAP-sRFYzvLcQb4Wa7G3VTH4aL1x53YlkdD-I_w5W0EZ50jYxpwZNhwfW/s1600/IMG_2422.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOwux1tUiqc0A83gAPlYMKXYZc-OV1j3Xe5PBzPox4Xay-tE5EmLPxQRl29SSHCRiVDIE3ToKS7k63wtJ-olRuAP-sRFYzvLcQb4Wa7G3VTH4aL1x53YlkdD-I_w5W0EZ50jYxpwZNhwfW/s1600/IMG_2422.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soon we climb to 2000 m and the scenery changes completely. Check out those incredible colors!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKpiwtlyCiPbbjbR7qO2gQcuyjvlXXr1waclUSyid1LkRqwzDnTEJIFu21eF8ltJm3hmGUf4JY8AY-mUrCNr6l1WqF12sTgMu8eXKjScJed4KKoz82dV2hkk_Njb4gxS_XvxX-4kdySQLG/s1600/P1030484.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKpiwtlyCiPbbjbR7qO2gQcuyjvlXXr1waclUSyid1LkRqwzDnTEJIFu21eF8ltJm3hmGUf4JY8AY-mUrCNr6l1WqF12sTgMu8eXKjScJed4KKoz82dV2hkk_Njb4gxS_XvxX-4kdySQLG/s1600/P1030484.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Keeping on going, the road is still gentle, smooth, and surprisingly wind-less!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ46RXgkYBb0GmF5NlfP3eeUE7wbU0XZskAi1ROhIVodO1f3HDhTtUeqPWqTbq4med6YZJb8Q0p2TtE_LUxK0DIloBtSHHEA3VTfsoecoL5iSfqSgt1vJIqsITXDzd1JTQpgSUXAj9iMjj/s1600/P1030488.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ46RXgkYBb0GmF5NlfP3eeUE7wbU0XZskAi1ROhIVodO1f3HDhTtUeqPWqTbq4med6YZJb8Q0p2TtE_LUxK0DIloBtSHHEA3VTfsoecoL5iSfqSgt1vJIqsITXDzd1JTQpgSUXAj9iMjj/s1600/P1030488.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This reminds of us the North of Argentina, with no traffic</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl-hbQ-PA_2mGFFKWvLiTe4_hyaPugXQOjz8uxR52OGSH0EavwovDXY3hy6Re5DzrFTlWGV0bhij3hX-WMna1dUIGUIhGymxP8wbpxBiEiXnJmYIVCsa0m3vceRTcrmZhQzG6Xay2sGIhA/s1600/P1030490.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl-hbQ-PA_2mGFFKWvLiTe4_hyaPugXQOjz8uxR52OGSH0EavwovDXY3hy6Re5DzrFTlWGV0bhij3hX-WMna1dUIGUIhGymxP8wbpxBiEiXnJmYIVCsa0m3vceRTcrmZhQzG6Xay2sGIhA/s1600/P1030490.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As we approached one of the narrowings of the Quebrada, where Jonson said winds picks up, we get ourselves ready...but nothing happens!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLT3y6MMmV6RQDPcVlw1W2hq3dfdIWX8VPExYABr3N-EnOb5qgTOjf5qE6643V8cJEnrraG2ojfpekEIaA8cQZ2SUOHem5SgpTPqM3cn1sHnNudwfr7eqFuTCDbiHynKnmWhx5SfsbYOmQ/s1600/P1030502.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLT3y6MMmV6RQDPcVlw1W2hq3dfdIWX8VPExYABr3N-EnOb5qgTOjf5qE6643V8cJEnrraG2ojfpekEIaA8cQZ2SUOHem5SgpTPqM3cn1sHnNudwfr7eqFuTCDbiHynKnmWhx5SfsbYOmQ/s1600/P1030502.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And so we make fast progress to 3000 m, and the scenery changes yet again. Welcome back to the Puna!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwUTulT_bJ4P3DZl5i2N5zzQgrdZeQYCcY6JtfZRrjLrv1RZZchyGBl7FS3vynjSTOw_RRQtvlgjSeu0y11lHIM46F6kzOnQ_pp_cmPwmn5BImEV2vASW2MO1TvG9lq4O9stXX-Vb4-gz3/s1600/P1030496.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwUTulT_bJ4P3DZl5i2N5zzQgrdZeQYCcY6JtfZRrjLrv1RZZchyGBl7FS3vynjSTOw_RRQtvlgjSeu0y11lHIM46F6kzOnQ_pp_cmPwmn5BImEV2vASW2MO1TvG9lq4O9stXX-Vb4-gz3/s1600/P1030496.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We reached the first of the six amazing refugios that the government maintains as shelters for climbers and other adventurers. We still have plenty of daylight left, so decide to carry on up to number 2. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBLiJY1rCkDoSD3UNJZU_0hp6J_kN5wu55E-oYIlScoXjbFP5ocrCX1vAIgZE374-uilfCdG4dTvdcg7IAMPxSsgRNrQgy7gfabVe7PRoouCl5oreSd6aLambe3DBxonVarn9_mO8D2qst/s1600/P1030507.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBLiJY1rCkDoSD3UNJZU_0hp6J_kN5wu55E-oYIlScoXjbFP5ocrCX1vAIgZE374-uilfCdG4dTvdcg7IAMPxSsgRNrQgy7gfabVe7PRoouCl5oreSd6aLambe3DBxonVarn9_mO8D2qst/s1600/P1030507.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These refugios have no facilities but provide a very valuable shelter from the wind. The even claim to have wifi (which does not work in any of them)! The first four have streams nearby for water filtering purposes, although really only the Refugios 3 and 4 have it unsalty enough for drinking...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2tt0tU6GoGGNQspgP1lQ9dElagx2wfqoSNP_tZh7XsLk90zGaQdH1DOqAoSVFmxCQ0zDOE2T82nVymHFlv8_pVKWKUfnwUKW8I2heLkG-GiQD8nlX6lvqpmwK3A6-o3AC6w85AnY64RNB/s1600/P1030509.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2tt0tU6GoGGNQspgP1lQ9dElagx2wfqoSNP_tZh7XsLk90zGaQdH1DOqAoSVFmxCQ0zDOE2T82nVymHFlv8_pVKWKUfnwUKW8I2heLkG-GiQD8nlX6lvqpmwK3A6-o3AC6w85AnY64RNB/s1600/P1030509.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We spend the rest of the afternoon admiring the incredible Puna landscapes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoirSaJ_CjbujhXpt9B7HeHUfHOUVs_zrb-B-PKogRDcyORLbd4bB5XEpd4KsYUcKpardLD6ixMBOh2UEyr5j4EPkWEnJlzZQYiAVQrVaPEL2CK3r6EZp1BSN5KntCnZ3Oaks9fjASvQ8k/s1600/P1030533.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoirSaJ_CjbujhXpt9B7HeHUfHOUVs_zrb-B-PKogRDcyORLbd4bB5XEpd4KsYUcKpardLD6ixMBOh2UEyr5j4EPkWEnJlzZQYiAVQrVaPEL2CK3r6EZp1BSN5KntCnZ3Oaks9fjASvQ8k/s1600/P1030533.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">The following day - Christmas eve - we continue climbing, the views improving with every turn.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgisVfN7DgiVv3LQfXKgsJ9vLd6eEhzBxWkFZyoRE2TqQMEe29iZwkLDmDEy-v-BXiWmZfwWeVbt-HJoinleKXFOpbRZkWTZG54WVpiCULnUVJxB6V3kCWl0e4j4MJFHxweGkvgK6G-bA_N/s1600/P1030540.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgisVfN7DgiVv3LQfXKgsJ9vLd6eEhzBxWkFZyoRE2TqQMEe29iZwkLDmDEy-v-BXiWmZfwWeVbt-HJoinleKXFOpbRZkWTZG54WVpiCULnUVJxB6V3kCWl0e4j4MJFHxweGkvgK6G-bA_N/s1600/P1030540.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our efforts to sing Christmas carols are hampered by our lack of acclimatisation, which has us panting after every line. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqSfITZ7Da2IeOeuOqQDdmhmYcEXJGPyd_5nPhP_JPfF5qm0x5i_C0w1Ev3WaAfS5qi-_8EXuFRS0kFtQVz8SPCowAtRbkMHPBqmDp7Xl3ONETmFWzT93YlauWht1RqDgYmOOK5lGrDd9M/s1600/P1030580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqSfITZ7Da2IeOeuOqQDdmhmYcEXJGPyd_5nPhP_JPfF5qm0x5i_C0w1Ev3WaAfS5qi-_8EXuFRS0kFtQVz8SPCowAtRbkMHPBqmDp7Xl3ONETmFWzT93YlauWht1RqDgYmOOK5lGrDd9M/s1600/P1030580.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So we content ourselves with enjoying the stunning and totally unique scenery. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5sjV_EmPQQUEvrsnczCxofFDIhVXk1aa7hlnNXNDmMunp4S1Vn_6fFax6KK7SQ2u2G0PSyieuK62S35dIlaHYc4-lNoc4DMFTaRPJBpGBVOscphO29W-GyQ5PuRnMFNVuGTKLT2vn_eRm/s1600/P1030562.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5sjV_EmPQQUEvrsnczCxofFDIhVXk1aa7hlnNXNDmMunp4S1Vn_6fFax6KK7SQ2u2G0PSyieuK62S35dIlaHYc4-lNoc4DMFTaRPJBpGBVOscphO29W-GyQ5PuRnMFNVuGTKLT2vn_eRm/s1600/P1030562.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking backwards is just as impressive.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRSQeK7kBdrSUYt5vm7zx9KFfXEwYH_OjgKwXBks7Aek9XoDDFImjFNUgSCYxtR-9vdGAKt04Y60piEIMuB91Vt35WJcfqJezMz1ufRpClGvZnS2g5dCRNKHOwktQojP_LEuD3-7zG5a4x/s1600/P1030570.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRSQeK7kBdrSUYt5vm7zx9KFfXEwYH_OjgKwXBks7Aek9XoDDFImjFNUgSCYxtR-9vdGAKt04Y60piEIMuB91Vt35WJcfqJezMz1ufRpClGvZnS2g5dCRNKHOwktQojP_LEuD3-7zG5a4x/s1600/P1030570.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Up we climb, past some skittish vicuña.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGEJS4SJAmtulDpjuGQ2dEBxoylCeaSs15l9yQy9vAbmSNMqjEQGeVv6bhVhOyUmT6dLEU-wscwOAMFYxc1AT_OpcVRdle-toiS8IqE8gCd3_QzN7pdSjDg8rVojC8RnrP30hH_ZGUq3FU/s1600/IMG_2433.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGEJS4SJAmtulDpjuGQ2dEBxoylCeaSs15l9yQy9vAbmSNMqjEQGeVv6bhVhOyUmT6dLEU-wscwOAMFYxc1AT_OpcVRdle-toiS8IqE8gCd3_QzN7pdSjDg8rVojC8RnrP30hH_ZGUq3FU/s1600/IMG_2433.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We reach Refugio 4 in time for a Christmas Eve treat of hot chocolate with a view. (Please note, the proudly displayed wifi sign is total BS). We unfortunately had no way to communicate with our friends and family on Christmas.. we hope they have forgiven us!)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQSubcSla5LG8PTLR0e5vpa-vwbT0pipBd2OJ0bYXSplOZzctQI-QpoIiXEnosmuWxadY7bsV_pMp38yu10MxwVH36RPvFeM1pIBF_-5lHmsMI0rMsvJfwg4Qsxsb1SmBH9Ouj4rRLmOnm/s1600/P1030543.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQSubcSla5LG8PTLR0e5vpa-vwbT0pipBd2OJ0bYXSplOZzctQI-QpoIiXEnosmuWxadY7bsV_pMp38yu10MxwVH36RPvFeM1pIBF_-5lHmsMI0rMsvJfwg4Qsxsb1SmBH9Ouj4rRLmOnm/s1600/P1030543.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Xmas with a view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhad7_uFnD0u6ulo2YSUpisr_G8NAKaKyYPGtA-ccMSKwkIW1BkSh0Vk8lPhXua3vIAYOXMb8uQdxr4h8thLGq7EkMiTQYPe3G2Hlei8LHQ8QfLxkutgOb0NGdOAWDkruiaccl4TzgJu2zi/s1600/P1030549.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhad7_uFnD0u6ulo2YSUpisr_G8NAKaKyYPGtA-ccMSKwkIW1BkSh0Vk8lPhXua3vIAYOXMb8uQdxr4h8thLGq7EkMiTQYPe3G2Hlei8LHQ8QfLxkutgOb0NGdOAWDkruiaccl4TzgJu2zi/s1600/P1030549.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A trip to the nearby stream for some slightly salty water, dinner and we bed down for the night</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5aKlgIsD-3ZY0efWzsAN57q-CykGXRf_7Fq__sr9es3v5jEcF_87MZ-J_M2mz4A-BO5GNfwXMKLJNhwWSArEUutBvnyMpBpdFWIpv6zrXYZxVHC0Jtw4l_s50SdIOwJgwMxhbJEKIFcoQ/s1600/IMG_2435.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5aKlgIsD-3ZY0efWzsAN57q-CykGXRf_7Fq__sr9es3v5jEcF_87MZ-J_M2mz4A-BO5GNfwXMKLJNhwWSArEUutBvnyMpBpdFWIpv6zrXYZxVHC0Jtw4l_s50SdIOwJgwMxhbJEKIFcoQ/s1600/IMG_2435.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The following morning we (well, Lucy) sing some cheesy Xmas songs and eat the pannetone that we had been carrying from Fiambalá. A very special and low key Xmas, that´s for sure.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxsy8NJuLY1JqXt_242odeBjzi3AdVwWIFgrWWYvXdXhvWqu8ZSDKny2DaDQ7-Dd8F2FaTQVywEsvgrbBfi1c1vG0flfsNdVO8R9bsmqrIzmb7-H4jJs5L1tfkgq4h-IM1Jp-jucIh88Ke/s1600/IMG_2438.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxsy8NJuLY1JqXt_242odeBjzi3AdVwWIFgrWWYvXdXhvWqu8ZSDKny2DaDQ7-Dd8F2FaTQVywEsvgrbBfi1c1vG0flfsNdVO8R9bsmqrIzmb7-H4jJs5L1tfkgq4h-IM1Jp-jucIh88Ke/s1600/IMG_2438.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In good spirits, cause there´s just a slight headwind, we head for the next milestone of the climb: the Argentinian aduanas at Las Grutas.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt397JW0gA84YK069FxedhqNPkT3iSRMfo2nlueg94ZeqnIwEv622P3zavvRcbDfieZoND8y_TPCYF5L-FRocPhR71VChhaMAnsj_U2R7mTnWi-ercunjp7hrEopxFSj-n7gAbTSO8-jsQ/s1600/P1030574.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt397JW0gA84YK069FxedhqNPkT3iSRMfo2nlueg94ZeqnIwEv622P3zavvRcbDfieZoND8y_TPCYF5L-FRocPhR71VChhaMAnsj_U2R7mTnWi-ercunjp7hrEopxFSj-n7gAbTSO8-jsQ/s1600/P1030574.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It feels really special to be immersed in such a special landscape for Xmas. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCtIET5GifEf39dYqqxkOaNZysGCMEaU7TYammNwTWpRdYC1g8_wMwhOsQhNFRLwO8u2kZosN1lZQ10150WUhWoo9GJWO7PaXkFvCHVTFZS4b-JQoobMAfACZdz1wADkhQnlfg-4DKAkEr/s1600/IMG_2445.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCtIET5GifEf39dYqqxkOaNZysGCMEaU7TYammNwTWpRdYC1g8_wMwhOsQhNFRLwO8u2kZosN1lZQ10150WUhWoo9GJWO7PaXkFvCHVTFZS4b-JQoobMAfACZdz1wADkhQnlfg-4DKAkEr/s1600/IMG_2445.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Having planned an easy day for acclimatisation purposes, we make good time. Nearing the Argentinian immigration, we get a full view of stunning Volcano Incahuasi (6612 m) with apparently has the highest Inca Ruins</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqtbVMAaijDoL2XQK-hDf4S8U2AgZGy-JJLpUTkN1J6a5Bu2StyXdQ4NhgXkb6W_TfHP4-I-SuuOk218S6Z5SbBeyN9eenfC2d6DYX0uuQ2pVrIQ8RmqRttG7NS5PnZSyf_dP2IHGIsIud/s1600/P1030586.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqtbVMAaijDoL2XQK-hDf4S8U2AgZGy-JJLpUTkN1J6a5Bu2StyXdQ4NhgXkb6W_TfHP4-I-SuuOk218S6Z5SbBeyN9eenfC2d6DYX0uuQ2pVrIQ8RmqRttG7NS5PnZSyf_dP2IHGIsIud/s1600/P1030586.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We arrive to the border complex in early afternoon, enjoying great views of the Volcano San Francisco (6018 m and apparently the easiest 6000 er in the world - save that for the next visit)</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD5hE01KZXAUZSXCAS-Fe6SNf8RbcQ5oQkiD1hdpJClJI_acGIwcYt_FojQBZ5ZY39HkDjZdMrjpsK0aAOnWJtO_PBEuqrUicYkqcBd09ZkyghyOPu7ZUUTzxt8vKEri6tCE1dca7Ibt0I/s1600/P1030587.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD5hE01KZXAUZSXCAS-Fe6SNf8RbcQ5oQkiD1hdpJClJI_acGIwcYt_FojQBZ5ZY39HkDjZdMrjpsK0aAOnWJtO_PBEuqrUicYkqcBd09ZkyghyOPu7ZUUTzxt8vKEri6tCE1dca7Ibt0I/s1600/P1030587.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We share the hospedaje at Las Grutas with friendly Argentinian mountain guides Matías (left) and Ulises (right), along with their clients, a father and his daughter (9 years old!), who is attempting to become the youngest person to climb nearby Ojos del Salado.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzUIrpq1vDbsgtU4POeDyFpyyTvtFNHByV0m0hPkjArneK91nagddiYXYhxR0NBMsDsaP3lkt2Q0EQLU9TV6gheiBxMV2_TqqI1PlNY-HNpN2uxys12LZcVAX8Zdno-mKa36wWJRb0xYDd/s1600/P1030592.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzUIrpq1vDbsgtU4POeDyFpyyTvtFNHByV0m0hPkjArneK91nagddiYXYhxR0NBMsDsaP3lkt2Q0EQLU9TV6gheiBxMV2_TqqI1PlNY-HNpN2uxys12LZcVAX8Zdno-mKa36wWJRb0xYDd/s1600/P1030592.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing away from Las Grutas, we are treated to views of the nearby salty lake. </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij8hh88YCAeNGgNBJHYujiugz7gRmyJN6nm8UgALalzXUKLComQIp_CPl7iRMi7bKq6s5Lo_HOwSbJT7BreZycF2NoytpUQ6HT5mK2GWVTZfuHQkd792dJoVzMMZzoX9VY5_5RocEI8fMO/s1600/P1030583.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij8hh88YCAeNGgNBJHYujiugz7gRmyJN6nm8UgALalzXUKLComQIp_CPl7iRMi7bKq6s5Lo_HOwSbJT7BreZycF2NoytpUQ6HT5mK2GWVTZfuHQkd792dJoVzMMZzoX9VY5_5RocEI8fMO/s1600/P1030583.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And as we gain more altitude, we get to see more peaks on the Chilean side</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHgfQUlcErRmK2axUGEMy6DZlFwN5nfjA3c09UgAuHt1EHsQeEWhRowg2zg2KyqYlNOouALxacomdcCcfn-ECzJd7211-5rh7u_58UD7UywNeRGVyNhpLZyLgZUjHm9MMjycd9vKVOfyL3/s1600/IMG_2449.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHgfQUlcErRmK2axUGEMy6DZlFwN5nfjA3c09UgAuHt1EHsQeEWhRowg2zg2KyqYlNOouALxacomdcCcfn-ECzJd7211-5rh7u_58UD7UywNeRGVyNhpLZyLgZUjHm9MMjycd9vKVOfyL3/s1600/IMG_2449.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Although we faced more of a headwind than previous days, we still manage to make it to the top of the pass for lunch. It´s climbing season and there´s plenty of climbers around, most of which are incredibly generous with us, handing out free drinks and food</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6TGdwGatF_hEWJDtTnSNGfnyJ0qjJaJ_n70FW75_PBXf0lsgVYq6VXPO8cDSXrTowm9_-nnHPrLFboikgPMC2JneFInqAvFDzE4N_wuHouGPdSUuhZuMDlcAcqMC_flFDDqvq7l9cLGtj/s1600/IMG_2453.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6TGdwGatF_hEWJDtTnSNGfnyJ0qjJaJ_n70FW75_PBXf0lsgVYq6VXPO8cDSXrTowm9_-nnHPrLFboikgPMC2JneFInqAvFDzE4N_wuHouGPdSUuhZuMDlcAcqMC_flFDDqvq7l9cLGtj/s1600/IMG_2453.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the way down, we are tipped off to a supply of potable water that we didn´t know existed. Guess we didn´t need to carry that 20 kilos of water to the top of the pass then! (Cyclists, see the route notes below for info).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlBUUXqgACGQPmmL4wWnihi-1hWwcRBhWyZ7Zb49EYYuKzkkydt5KlMhbZ5Qp62mCDJkCtiQzfxOv5CkRAoMZeKQCzLnpeivM9ZNihhEC9MFECEEZKsoKVHWq9oTRYelFa5vulRYPHA5wW/s1600/P1030642.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlBUUXqgACGQPmmL4wWnihi-1hWwcRBhWyZ7Zb49EYYuKzkkydt5KlMhbZ5Qp62mCDJkCtiQzfxOv5CkRAoMZeKQCzLnpeivM9ZNihhEC9MFECEEZKsoKVHWq9oTRYelFa5vulRYPHA5wW/s1600/P1030642.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As we go down the Chilean side, we are treated to a quick view of Ojos del Salado, the second highest peak in the Americas at 6893 m! Even then, it only gets a few hundred visitors a year, and requires no expensive permits unlike Aconcagua. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv_8FIoXAwO8GRkUdtE5_Xz1mi5bQOpXmZf5x546R5HEYPyArRpO0m9ENTofCi9dCsXn6ytVu3l-UYoJYWDcU4Lpl22Ck2hxCpvj2gkQHAAt3QIGws2HTZfu18V_z_pTuYwYm3-BE3tPBh/s1600/P1030616.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv_8FIoXAwO8GRkUdtE5_Xz1mi5bQOpXmZf5x546R5HEYPyArRpO0m9ENTofCi9dCsXn6ytVu3l-UYoJYWDcU4Lpl22Ck2hxCpvj2gkQHAAt3QIGws2HTZfu18V_z_pTuYwYm3-BE3tPBh/s1600/P1030616.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The descent to Laguna Verde is frustratingly slow, with the horrific headwinds we had worried about finally appearing and a terrible sandy road surface to boot. But the effort is rewarded with the views from the campsite at laguna verde</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQvT1woQLTc7-eb4HqdrgJKyj3Mk64Aa5Dn3km4LpJVyVMRK_tEJtmlGsavLe5cyOrYAw7BGUuuBzEpOIvekwjiGS5lDsIQA13s63SxKTdI1RXdlaJAKsz5uTEymPwNCp-9qcxOexBij3C/s1600/P1030620.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQvT1woQLTc7-eb4HqdrgJKyj3Mk64Aa5Dn3km4LpJVyVMRK_tEJtmlGsavLe5cyOrYAw7BGUuuBzEpOIvekwjiGS5lDsIQA13s63SxKTdI1RXdlaJAKsz5uTEymPwNCp-9qcxOexBij3C/s1600/P1030620.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The laguna really is verde, but only at certain times of day (i.e. evening when it gets really windy)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg17ZE-fblrkzxVcy3V0PbuH5KfvdxjPQeppvk0CR7asXbDJJgE3_NDbHHjJ1vkSnv-G9GJ72kFOoCSfLbwnyX-GU_lxNa4WQjcAFh3NLbP1M98-lQWk_pxht_eBXNgvkqohj5dIUWzkwF7/s1600/P1030622.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg17ZE-fblrkzxVcy3V0PbuH5KfvdxjPQeppvk0CR7asXbDJJgE3_NDbHHjJ1vkSnv-G9GJ72kFOoCSfLbwnyX-GU_lxNa4WQjcAFh3NLbP1M98-lQWk_pxht_eBXNgvkqohj5dIUWzkwF7/s1600/P1030622.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We meet Mauricio, Susana and Eugenia from La Serena and Santiago in Chile, here to climb Ojos del Salado for the second time. Funnily enough, they had also cycled toured the length of South America and so we were quick to engage in conversation. They gave us some extra water which allows us to take a much needed rest day at the laguna. And also, ignite our interest to start climbing mountains even further!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfyYmv-tFbFFNSDOK3Agspwue8u3wQVpB_ss27ZxKSpXX_72Ul6CH5ybsLISXiH0jFa1mixoMhPRtMlXiXHA41kuvvL_-IK1ZNZHMPcFK3AkY1hL_uUQ0JTMza66ZUzEMZ-YveEha_cDKc/s1600/P1030625.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfyYmv-tFbFFNSDOK3Agspwue8u3wQVpB_ss27ZxKSpXX_72Ul6CH5ybsLISXiH0jFa1mixoMhPRtMlXiXHA41kuvvL_-IK1ZNZHMPcFK3AkY1hL_uUQ0JTMza66ZUzEMZ-YveEha_cDKc/s1600/P1030625.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another beautiful sunset...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSH6Ut0BAI6YxC5SYyPgL9HZBMlaqwZpQuBeZUGvElcxMIQGXxqT_ri3D9vRpUTtZPa62tE0OPOfn3fGqCoF7GJjKXkS1LoIy3xL8TsJ5FdBqm7Of4QaDK0jND0wkLtNmMPRKzE7DMc-iW/s1600/P1030640.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSH6Ut0BAI6YxC5SYyPgL9HZBMlaqwZpQuBeZUGvElcxMIQGXxqT_ri3D9vRpUTtZPa62tE0OPOfn3fGqCoF7GJjKXkS1LoIy3xL8TsJ5FdBqm7Of4QaDK0jND0wkLtNmMPRKzE7DMc-iW/s1600/P1030640.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Well rested, we continue our descent towards Copiapó</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipcO_yPqyjqgf2ED59pdxl4KC1NZS7DrmT33A20xJa6WzJhNLYBbrPPm_SVoPwlBTDra0iFznXPeI0UFs0HE31WxrRQ9DVU8uMHPKyYlVWbqMTmAQhzT6SMXfO5xSb41AiiClRhNZR4Y7N/s1600/P1030650.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipcO_yPqyjqgf2ED59pdxl4KC1NZS7DrmT33A20xJa6WzJhNLYBbrPPm_SVoPwlBTDra0iFznXPeI0UFs0HE31WxrRQ9DVU8uMHPKyYlVWbqMTmAQhzT6SMXfO5xSb41AiiClRhNZR4Y7N/s1600/P1030650.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Puna being all dry, sometimes surprised us with some streams, bringing some vegetation with them</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj20vOHAuQk1ntwzYPtcyFETnav2-uKK7WG4bqjUr1FCmqJNk80LrOs_B-dPQvpWY25r1515dnCADpv2sdvF-PpRvuXZ1vOgMGvvny4KgNRAFiLlszHyYARag60BIa5IDBolh3rKK0Ig_T/s1600/P1030653.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj20vOHAuQk1ntwzYPtcyFETnav2-uKK7WG4bqjUr1FCmqJNk80LrOs_B-dPQvpWY25r1515dnCADpv2sdvF-PpRvuXZ1vOgMGvvny4KgNRAFiLlszHyYARag60BIa5IDBolh3rKK0Ig_T/s1600/P1030653.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally, two days after leaving Argentina, we reach the Chilean immigration post at the Salar de Maricunga and officially enter Chile for the third time.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTE76mcSU5m2XHtENcj_375L2nNE2SYqIPIi7JeAQilsDTO8pejLH6k0GiGpGCci1yhSYbnLB8cnYmm1B-5LePyAzuFoqwCv15js-ujX-EziVVtwJuTuMY_OxHj6VGE9UyvqgY0PIO89bw/s1600/IMG_2464.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTE76mcSU5m2XHtENcj_375L2nNE2SYqIPIi7JeAQilsDTO8pejLH6k0GiGpGCci1yhSYbnLB8cnYmm1B-5LePyAzuFoqwCv15js-ujX-EziVVtwJuTuMY_OxHj6VGE9UyvqgY0PIO89bw/s1600/IMG_2464.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After a night with the immigration officials, we just have one more small climb before it´s all downhill (nearly 4,000 m of it) to Copiapó.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0PH4dvgd-o1x45bT5-yVwyXClfhWfiOTlPPnH2-Eq8ToiGMOjIPp_JnAxhnGdQ2dwLtia9Vefs4CyuQ0B8NsygTOfs5pWGiNDncu2horZqtuMFJsNkGXXyx3Tx0b5W4Ucie5SmSAhMcIp/s1600/P1030665.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0PH4dvgd-o1x45bT5-yVwyXClfhWfiOTlPPnH2-Eq8ToiGMOjIPp_JnAxhnGdQ2dwLtia9Vefs4CyuQ0B8NsygTOfs5pWGiNDncu2horZqtuMFJsNkGXXyx3Tx0b5W4Ucie5SmSAhMcIp/s1600/P1030665.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the descent, we meet Franz and Cindy, Austrian climbers who we had met a few days ago at the top of Paso San Fransisco. They were returning from a resupply trip to Copiapó and forced fresh fruits and other goodness on us. We were so grateful! Also, they happened to be from our favourite Austrian city of Salzburg (hello Martin if you read this!?)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9G1iIbSuLnFOueifNxvVIrfsT2CACXUqmPZZXbIiMm2RURD8S5wm_LjocADMqQSfcQBlkB1oUTPZ8uK7lRnu5oPY6Bl8Z760Vf5PPHgA8ftMjmedtLBXCBa1rrVp2qeyqZft-z4-x9VSb/s1600/P1030668.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9G1iIbSuLnFOueifNxvVIrfsT2CACXUqmPZZXbIiMm2RURD8S5wm_LjocADMqQSfcQBlkB1oUTPZ8uK7lRnu5oPY6Bl8Z760Vf5PPHgA8ftMjmedtLBXCBa1rrVp2qeyqZft-z4-x9VSb/s1600/P1030668.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With a stiff headwind, we can´t quite manage the full descent in one day, and find an abandoned village to camp in to shelter from the wind. Next morning we rise early to blast our way down to Copiapó before the wind pick up again. From Copiapó there´s either the dodgy route 5 (the Panamerican) South or the dessert coastal roads. Having no time to do the coast, and not wanting to risk our lives on the highway, we opt to take a bus straight to Santiago...just in time for New Years celebrations!</td></tr>
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Route notes:<br />
<br />
We used the <a href="http://andesbybike.com/argentina/routes/fiambala-to-villa-union/">Pike´s route notes</a> for the San Francisco pass section. The only things we would add are below:<br />
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- The prevailing winds blow West to East, and start at about 10 am, so if possible, this route is best done from Chile to Argentina.<br />
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- There´s water available at Refugios 1, 2, 3, and 4 nearby, on the Argentinian side. However, we found the water from Refugio 2 to be extremely salty, almost undrinkeable, so would advise against drinking it. Maybe OK for cooking? We did not try the water at Refugio 1. We were lucky to carry enough potable water from Fiambalá until we reached the Hotel between Refugio 2 and 3, which can give you good drinking water. Water at refugio 4, and possibly 3, was good if slightly salty. There´s a stream about 5 km before Refugio 5 on the left, coming from refugio 4.<br />
<br />
- As far as we knew there was no water from the Argentinian border at Grutas (the refugio nearby can give you drinking water) to the Chilean aduanas. However, some climbers pointed us at a stream at km 37.5 after Grutas (coming from Argentina) wich provides slightly salty but OK water. Turn left at that km onto 4x4 track to stream pictured above. Otherwise, if you are there in the climbing season, there may be climbers willing to give you some bottled water in the camp at laguna verde.<br />
<br />
- The Chilean side has really bad ripio to laguna verde from the crossing<br />
<br />
- The refugio at Grutas charges 70 pesos argentinos per person per night, has hot showers and a kitchen.<br />
<br />
- In Fiambalá: the supermaket next to the gas station is much cheaper than the rest. Jonson at the tourist information can provide great advice and maybe change some USD. We stayed at the campsite just before the turnoff to the centre of town as you come from Tinogasta for 15 pesos per person per night.Albertohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15789158563391048740noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-54788555463538123292015-01-06T15:23:00.000+00:002015-01-06T15:25:30.981+00:00San Antonio de los Cobres to Fiambalá: an Argentinian vacation<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="text-align: left;">Getting to lowly San Antonio de los Cobres marked the start of a new stage in our trip. After nearly a year in altitude, barely going lower than 2600 m for more than a few hours at a time, the next few weeks ahead were going to be spent in the proper heat of a proper summer, at altitudes more similar of those found in Europe or the USA. The </span><i style="text-align: left;">ripio</i><span style="text-align: left;"> roads were going to give way to some km of good pavement, mostly in the form of the famous Ruta 40 that traverses Argentina. No more sandy roads and </span><i style="text-align: left;">calamina</i><span style="text-align: left;"> (well, except for a couple days), no more tourist jeeps (which will be replaced for tiny rental cars driven by Western tourists), and no more cheap almuerzos.</span></div>
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For a bit more than two weeks we were on what we now call "a cycling vacation". After leaving the Puna, it all became way too easy and comfortable - there were shops selling cheap and tasty Torrontés wine (a white grape typical of the Salta and Catamarca region, somewhat similar to<i> </i>the <i>galician albariño</i>), cheap butchers, tasty empanadas, late night barbacues, grilled pizzas, fast wifi and many more home comforts. It was a good summer break, especially when most of the Northern hemisphere was receiving the first snowstorms...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibLFmgsVw3fmpKSytCOOF3wE5sb94DovB8HMI4xGf-icioec7cYvkkfoGEBt3REC_A6ZqYYd0J1W6U_-P458BrhICKABcadNEv8lDpOVPvubB3uNbokrJag03h2BNKOBk7dUzs0DyKE8GA/s1600/P1030207.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibLFmgsVw3fmpKSytCOOF3wE5sb94DovB8HMI4xGf-icioec7cYvkkfoGEBt3REC_A6ZqYYd0J1W6U_-P458BrhICKABcadNEv8lDpOVPvubB3uNbokrJag03h2BNKOBk7dUzs0DyKE8GA/s1600/P1030207.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In San Antonio de los Cobres we opted to take the old Ruta 40, headed North, passing by the Salinas Grandes, en-route to the Paso Jama. The road was in extremely poor condition for biking, and we had to carry water for two days, not knowing what to expect.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoVV_IaiZ-j8IPNbZ1op0gNVH-FcTgGuCnzMGIGRBdQoo1lBlM1I8LH7OblgPuABy3gi6kGxEUrOY_5A_3GuhMR0ZqGeCDmeDr5q543prXfQrkBqF_DKE0UIij2xL1DvA-zK97L6vuofa2/s1600/IMG_2293.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoVV_IaiZ-j8IPNbZ1op0gNVH-FcTgGuCnzMGIGRBdQoo1lBlM1I8LH7OblgPuABy3gi6kGxEUrOY_5A_3GuhMR0ZqGeCDmeDr5q543prXfQrkBqF_DKE0UIij2xL1DvA-zK97L6vuofa2/s1600/IMG_2293.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These brazilian dudes on motorbikes also had similar plans. From Foz de Iguazú to Cusco, vía some 10.000 km in between, in less than 1 month!</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9G0LCUPHtQnWpqBKAflHIB1BKLucdKnZQ93M9dHy-cVuZq44qE6F70EyQ6xQSp7KSCAk3yuJXiImG_1WrQx93LV_phlVeYklpO-vWth8A2yYuCmKieCJpji4km5BP-DZrxxXLmgOX9mS2/s1600/P1030212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9G0LCUPHtQnWpqBKAflHIB1BKLucdKnZQ93M9dHy-cVuZq44qE6F70EyQ6xQSp7KSCAk3yuJXiImG_1WrQx93LV_phlVeYklpO-vWth8A2yYuCmKieCJpji4km5BP-DZrxxXLmgOX9mS2/s1600/P1030212.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">With the usual afternoon wind howling, we are lucky to find some shelter in the ruins of an abandoned church in the middle of the Puna</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwHfvj3oxlaTXg2-fzFXsEktsb_y_d32v5UXkYEAFdiqM2QjYku_RP4edFjKVRXLr_mQb5Ga5RC4_ldXFbuWH6fvMMhwTlfQnaE6wlHAfF3VzCkH0h12fq6qAdPRFFXUqrZ3JDCUBB0AXH/s1600/P1030214.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwHfvj3oxlaTXg2-fzFXsEktsb_y_d32v5UXkYEAFdiqM2QjYku_RP4edFjKVRXLr_mQb5Ga5RC4_ldXFbuWH6fvMMhwTlfQnaE6wlHAfF3VzCkH0h12fq6qAdPRFFXUqrZ3JDCUBB0AXH/s1600/P1030214.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
After 100 km, this is the first settlement we see since San Antonio, and has nothing more than the church and a house with a young family living it, even though it appears as a proper pueblo on our map<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhMipUHNlMpCA2kbMQx_1wSwBJQH0QFtkK-vEXUGVu8Q8Oi1NqJpZEwFt3zt7B7cXmxuVYMpQGjSUOHEeJyq3nFhhuAzo_7DuNtSJ-q18A0wH-r0xZoy1PdLfQjsG8Ytekjy2MNJ2uZ0Gt/s1600/IMG_2303.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhMipUHNlMpCA2kbMQx_1wSwBJQH0QFtkK-vEXUGVu8Q8Oi1NqJpZEwFt3zt7B7cXmxuVYMpQGjSUOHEeJyq3nFhhuAzo_7DuNtSJ-q18A0wH-r0xZoy1PdLfQjsG8Ytekjy2MNJ2uZ0Gt/s1600/IMG_2303.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our route on <i>ripio</i> ended on the road from Paso Jama to Jujuy. The main reason we took this detour was to cycle through the Quebrada de Humahuaca, but another 4000 m plus pass was in between...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqlJIaV1NTbOkcjM_3-66StmQ7LyqRhKp3umuTaj21-ftZztTduqiVy-Ahh8T5uDSeyqeO93X0PC4TX3azcLLAG6kNfuJiFEyIbFj-l4rar7oeYyvG5i8Vk0CeyykptFE9MzW6zQRnbB7B/s1600/P1030224.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqlJIaV1NTbOkcjM_3-66StmQ7LyqRhKp3umuTaj21-ftZztTduqiVy-Ahh8T5uDSeyqeO93X0PC4TX3azcLLAG6kNfuJiFEyIbFj-l4rar7oeYyvG5i8Vk0CeyykptFE9MzW6zQRnbB7B/s1600/P1030224.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The final pass delivers us to 4300 m. Then a long and windy descent is all is left to Purmamarca (2300 m). But as has become the norm in Argentina, we are faced with some stiff headwinds that make this one of the toughest descents of the trip.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNUEN0Y99p6PFjmY7keUZY8cY532tOhN7ob7k3P85rgUe1BySHY4wRJjB2ORz1QahnIwk3DuXbsCtB_7oL470oCwCqHYkUxWW7Gb49f3x848jAT1LPzluAYyRNuo_o7SaUvp175hBV9ysB/s1600/P1030229.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNUEN0Y99p6PFjmY7keUZY8cY532tOhN7ob7k3P85rgUe1BySHY4wRJjB2ORz1QahnIwk3DuXbsCtB_7oL470oCwCqHYkUxWW7Gb49f3x848jAT1LPzluAYyRNuo_o7SaUvp175hBV9ysB/s1600/P1030229.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At 2500 m we start admiring what we had detoured for...and doesn´t disappoint!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIVgHfLV_QA0-Qo0vVeTwYe6uP57HhDNSZtQweA0_vBA3_WEIFzfU9lmJUgAIWSb3DntSM_7SZz8TZVfB4mtTqDFLhNgOwLJfoNtm5A8nPFPtoPIZHB4znBQt7WI5CFWfoqniAzGN7uv-_/s1600/IMG_2310.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIVgHfLV_QA0-Qo0vVeTwYe6uP57HhDNSZtQweA0_vBA3_WEIFzfU9lmJUgAIWSb3DntSM_7SZz8TZVfB4mtTqDFLhNgOwLJfoNtm5A8nPFPtoPIZHB4znBQt7WI5CFWfoqniAzGN7uv-_/s1600/IMG_2310.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Once in Purmamarca, tourist central, we were allowed to camp for free in a yet-to-be-opened campsite. Here we pick up Colombian cycle tourist <a href="http://sulvara.com/">Elkin</a> who had been following us on the climb, about an hour behind.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5p9FG_0R2ceJ7QXEATxukGqVKMQK-n9wkj50Sgex7HR5WfwkGqSnP_IaU03XAAfmvNWLDh85Jq8b1tqRi9dy6QBCmvq-yrR_8JIQW4K0pAsgcaybdxYd72lHGAaZowaYHRU2TlZ8OKWUR/s1600/P1030235.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5p9FG_0R2ceJ7QXEATxukGqVKMQK-n9wkj50Sgex7HR5WfwkGqSnP_IaU03XAAfmvNWLDh85Jq8b1tqRi9dy6QBCmvq-yrR_8JIQW4K0pAsgcaybdxYd72lHGAaZowaYHRU2TlZ8OKWUR/s1600/P1030235.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Meet the man - Elkin had cycled from his home in Bogotá taking some rather nice pictures along the way. We´re always happy to meet people from one of the most welcoming and interesting places we´ve cycled through so far.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq4GoP8AnK5NFeCtVM2MA6WPNdDSxzqMNwx7sHLb5uHxFo7iqvMfxbWvaCKN5wJBSGKjB03GhwByODilGOj6NXn3XTVy7GMoFPk6ulJkTIUHsM64Ai79gMFUKZpccWhWX7OoK3PRVsEKaz/s1600/IMG_2325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq4GoP8AnK5NFeCtVM2MA6WPNdDSxzqMNwx7sHLb5uHxFo7iqvMfxbWvaCKN5wJBSGKjB03GhwByODilGOj6NXn3XTVy7GMoFPk6ulJkTIUHsM64Ai79gMFUKZpccWhWX7OoK3PRVsEKaz/s1600/IMG_2325.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the morning we looped around the cerro de los siete colores, but because of time of the day, we are only able to spot three or four. (Note the different approaches to luggage!)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqJkJmumCKKPHwFaUPdVXWB4qXVTtmxokgAFkG392YYT-WXFk0cQZ7GZHpvwF_R507iQwS4t9Dgy3rexJQsMGXGA-YSsJ9LTQgmp4B3Ea42n95P5J1oIfcadT1xKGv-YsPCpbR2cSn39nU/s1600/P1030254.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqJkJmumCKKPHwFaUPdVXWB4qXVTtmxokgAFkG392YYT-WXFk0cQZ7GZHpvwF_R507iQwS4t9Dgy3rexJQsMGXGA-YSsJ9LTQgmp4B3Ea42n95P5J1oIfcadT1xKGv-YsPCpbR2cSn39nU/s1600/P1030254.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After our tour of the cerro, it was all downhill (with a headwind, for a change) to the town of Jujuy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMU1OreYvuyeYyeffUbovr4PwDxzmUeDMGiaziE0xh0S7VsUoMeysbfruyjdIR5bXUhwwIVvQufwSaWH8Z_iK_6PzKPjr_abCQxMiAw_l5ZskcB-xeBt7KgC_jHiS_uEbRVSmqSh_t26C6/s1600/P1030257.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMU1OreYvuyeYyeffUbovr4PwDxzmUeDMGiaziE0xh0S7VsUoMeysbfruyjdIR5bXUhwwIVvQufwSaWH8Z_iK_6PzKPjr_abCQxMiAw_l5ZskcB-xeBt7KgC_jHiS_uEbRVSmqSh_t26C6/s1600/P1030257.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After dropping to 1300 m, the lowest we have been in a almost a year, we realise how similar Jujuy is, for example, to Sevilla in Spain. The people, the siesta, the chilled wines, the manic private car traffic... </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqpKaqZEumU8qhhJTcW1ELmzb5VqMQuk1i3_xY7mYPrBwnELZiNw1H68zoDNSw2LylNrrny7_qBHycFP-Zh-7OH84Ma5z6jHNp6zuhuvfJB93M37qiVkl9F-kHJJV0z0VBxmRyd1Zd6wle/s1600/IMG_2335.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqpKaqZEumU8qhhJTcW1ELmzb5VqMQuk1i3_xY7mYPrBwnELZiNw1H68zoDNSw2LylNrrny7_qBHycFP-Zh-7OH84Ma5z6jHNp6zuhuvfJB93M37qiVkl9F-kHJJV0z0VBxmRyd1Zd6wle/s1600/IMG_2335.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old road from Jujuy to Salta is a far shorter than the autopista, but it being so narrow, has barely any traffic and goes through some really stunning green landscapes.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-1ZtoXM5MkErM8a2cKjzeerkGAptYQ3hJeKGqXQOxob2GHPoaK9jzfq_kBvLTtCR1iCX-_VsA2H_KVWhzIafU-gpGFA_Q8jPdOd6G8cfw_4xVrcRe8Wx3VbIdAS7Lfiae3g-8bPG7sZnJ/s1600/IMG_2330.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-1ZtoXM5MkErM8a2cKjzeerkGAptYQ3hJeKGqXQOxob2GHPoaK9jzfq_kBvLTtCR1iCX-_VsA2H_KVWhzIafU-gpGFA_Q8jPdOd6G8cfw_4xVrcRe8Wx3VbIdAS7Lfiae3g-8bPG7sZnJ/s1600/IMG_2330.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gauchito is everywhere!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiei9J-hBMV29QWgRoPZRlfrjxMRmT19Q6FmW43Ue-TJcCG0CXjkrGRhLeT0L8NWRUs6OjhYcQtuHNohE51jaghT8NhUEZ7S-bKmR5I2uQnyTthXtz1nPZLG0jWaPuTI_nNIY7Ou-qXJvp1/s1600/P1030271.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiei9J-hBMV29QWgRoPZRlfrjxMRmT19Q6FmW43Ue-TJcCG0CXjkrGRhLeT0L8NWRUs6OjhYcQtuHNohE51jaghT8NhUEZ7S-bKmR5I2uQnyTthXtz1nPZLG0jWaPuTI_nNIY7Ou-qXJvp1/s1600/P1030271.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A late start and a relaxed day on the bikes mean sunset was upon us as we approached the outskirts of Salta</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis6o_LhupatZ_mFZk3v98N7GMMWiWR469qUNtBnaVyLKAwwEEiXjCQMdEpv85261rnG5zY98Ppv7KBGgvprNmDmrz_E6ZO2lQRs2tZ8nZyto0VFSpKavUezrGNnFFkOyVmEpFA8HdaK0F4/s1600/IMG_2341.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis6o_LhupatZ_mFZk3v98N7GMMWiWR469qUNtBnaVyLKAwwEEiXjCQMdEpv85261rnG5zY98Ppv7KBGgvprNmDmrz_E6ZO2lQRs2tZ8nZyto0VFSpKavUezrGNnFFkOyVmEpFA8HdaK0F4/s1600/IMG_2341.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...which we eventually reached at night. Leo and Carol, in between us on the picture, welcomed us into their house, along with other travellers. A couple of days of asados, wine, and yet more empanadas and we were all ready to keep holidaying South to Cafayate</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidO5JEdaryjV6_VQ9kWWI7EyoiuYxpYKMOZLRu8oYY_kqSfXCs4EK3l4CMMkGMxmU79BE5bSXRYNe06M13CMfKfjSRu1J8ifA2yuyaCcrBm8bpbHH0b4IbeQdu2itYZgiL4qfiyWNqSi0i/s1600/P1030267.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidO5JEdaryjV6_VQ9kWWI7EyoiuYxpYKMOZLRu8oYY_kqSfXCs4EK3l4CMMkGMxmU79BE5bSXRYNe06M13CMfKfjSRu1J8ifA2yuyaCcrBm8bpbHH0b4IbeQdu2itYZgiL4qfiyWNqSi0i/s1600/P1030267.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">For the first time in ages, we get a tailwind and make fast progress after Salta on the road 68. We did consider the mountain road to Cachi, but the 68 is also lovely as it passes through the Quebrada de las Conchas, and it is almost all flat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicgHKvCWLl9f7a45-9IPW8zIsnBC4Yg2ZGfEJv6j4_cJJEPAYLqGolyQ1zWW3VvQ5VCSPnfiwbKqrGqk53qN-7vTSGwohOuEXF3s1eR47d9HSJFq_a40abPPy8xF-yKr29U1a0jcu_qZ5p/s1600/P1030312.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicgHKvCWLl9f7a45-9IPW8zIsnBC4Yg2ZGfEJv6j4_cJJEPAYLqGolyQ1zWW3VvQ5VCSPnfiwbKqrGqk53qN-7vTSGwohOuEXF3s1eR47d9HSJFq_a40abPPy8xF-yKr29U1a0jcu_qZ5p/s1600/P1030312.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Along the way, we passed through a few villages. This one strikes us with its name, and its brand new train station...that no longer sees any trains or tourists these days (the railway is disused!). </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm9zy3kIihxHX-TNFc61Zh32jja9-Nlh69Hv6kQ8Z0-wFOPoW_P1c7Ks4jmqhUFc36njHCPwDMo9A7M5GruMi3ehRYvZ9FL4awT_B2waGsK8Rc6u8OG1zVNt8n9ilkR69OEn9mZIYNksRf/s1600/P1030315.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm9zy3kIihxHX-TNFc61Zh32jja9-Nlh69Hv6kQ8Z0-wFOPoW_P1c7Ks4jmqhUFc36njHCPwDMo9A7M5GruMi3ehRYvZ9FL4awT_B2waGsK8Rc6u8OG1zVNt8n9ilkR69OEn9mZIYNksRf/s1600/P1030315.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As night approaches, we start seeking a place to camp...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLShyphenhyphensHE3dzCGBJ_sA77-0H4MD8kKlRIKs9jFXFtTHN20RdtMORT0JDI3Yn4_iqnycVunRwPn-xDWXBynAi9FNXFJ6rSCKfN5Z94qJMkBjJtX-eNb5HPyzMffeD3EfVzJm70DzzO6Cvbuv/s1600/P1030330.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLShyphenhyphensHE3dzCGBJ_sA77-0H4MD8kKlRIKs9jFXFtTHN20RdtMORT0JDI3Yn4_iqnycVunRwPn-xDWXBynAi9FNXFJ6rSCKfN5Z94qJMkBjJtX-eNb5HPyzMffeD3EfVzJm70DzzO6Cvbuv/s1600/P1030330.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...which we finally found and is all good. That´s until we see gigantic ants with fur on their backs...Thoughts of our expensive tents being eaten away by those powerful creatures keep Lucy half awake all night</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr6_W4VqjyVzcNwNiDjzwuO5QyYRdeNj4Y5oxCf4UBWNBOLk1Fmy8IblAnJOyr1Pvz6kVtZshTD0ZFWgOlJTOHQbxfHOGwubDVH3bsV-vfQ0zK9_zB_LCg9ti_v445b91pR0GeHmbVftV3/s1600/IMG_2365.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr6_W4VqjyVzcNwNiDjzwuO5QyYRdeNj4Y5oxCf4UBWNBOLk1Fmy8IblAnJOyr1Pvz6kVtZshTD0ZFWgOlJTOHQbxfHOGwubDVH3bsV-vfQ0zK9_zB_LCg9ti_v445b91pR0GeHmbVftV3/s1600/IMG_2365.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But luckily nothing happens, we are happy and we keep holidaying South to the wine town of Cafayate</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5tuQsxLroyHKua9CzPe4P9dhxRsqrocq2tr-aGKVpKcLVtesEekrCvK8e3dcB4XhoX3vRLX1Y-2VMcGtgRHSaHwXu2UMisXV0HLuaMX-gTdfeUJqSjp33Zo3U8TZqGyAyn3-jeu_P8k3K/s1600/P1030341.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5tuQsxLroyHKua9CzPe4P9dhxRsqrocq2tr-aGKVpKcLVtesEekrCvK8e3dcB4XhoX3vRLX1Y-2VMcGtgRHSaHwXu2UMisXV0HLuaMX-gTdfeUJqSjp33Zo3U8TZqGyAyn3-jeu_P8k3K/s1600/P1030341.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We admire the Quebrada...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN5lWdyUrnWbEX43h56dxNLtWPbzKlQcelMEzujx6SKWfDFVTmSnfo0PQbEN8EYeu6pSusp7_xm5eK0HJJveJBd1ohj-iK4Le9wJSbXjRkbvXJAGg7QnNKg_EyMTB29tCyjzK1yPlvpU6X/s1600/P1030364.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN5lWdyUrnWbEX43h56dxNLtWPbzKlQcelMEzujx6SKWfDFVTmSnfo0PQbEN8EYeu6pSusp7_xm5eK0HJJveJBd1ohj-iK4Le9wJSbXjRkbvXJAGg7QnNKg_EyMTB29tCyjzK1yPlvpU6X/s1600/P1030364.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and all its crazy rock formations...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRiAJZaUpjGiNKqJXVBKQxKpG-0DYAOyM52ljFXkyyruZ6zCg8WD9hhxfkXJmabVV5kVOTWZcIw-Z84klTEfxly5EkQOSFV5bE7cj2xnLl0Z-nh_Ar18KoZW5c0G61BXF_5HW9KACu_gGn/s1600/P1030367.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRiAJZaUpjGiNKqJXVBKQxKpG-0DYAOyM52ljFXkyyruZ6zCg8WD9hhxfkXJmabVV5kVOTWZcIw-Z84klTEfxly5EkQOSFV5bE7cj2xnLl0Z-nh_Ar18KoZW5c0G61BXF_5HW9KACu_gGn/s1600/P1030367.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...which come most in reddish colours</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3TgnsP9y09iJ4gbF6fRzt_j1ti7W3AZPUGwuKXQlfi23xYEKw9OwnpQ0uv3zgwohlZpcsYx_G5tQavbVwo8w0DkIYGgWMLjJ0t-o6vzoTWE2s8UX6EZ3prBKuTnEmABbAQ4iEFZ_FxoJC/s1600/P1030385.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3TgnsP9y09iJ4gbF6fRzt_j1ti7W3AZPUGwuKXQlfi23xYEKw9OwnpQ0uv3zgwohlZpcsYx_G5tQavbVwo8w0DkIYGgWMLjJ0t-o6vzoTWE2s8UX6EZ3prBKuTnEmABbAQ4iEFZ_FxoJC/s1600/P1030385.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally, 2.5 days after we left the comforts of Salta, we hit the vineyards of Cafayate</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3RLOa-hW3h_t1GNKgq7F9Ec3-4RFo1aFIkujYd5DlbunhQuq5xz_JMOOT89HNcWwei_xHPrKfzpmv1RZKgEHEHOuUZeA77ITpYyddIuD5gFoitsElmaxVGE75aNw3DiGT1VWfPnRb4zrT/s1600/P1030371.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3RLOa-hW3h_t1GNKgq7F9Ec3-4RFo1aFIkujYd5DlbunhQuq5xz_JMOOT89HNcWwei_xHPrKfzpmv1RZKgEHEHOuUZeA77ITpYyddIuD5gFoitsElmaxVGE75aNw3DiGT1VWfPnRb4zrT/s1600/P1030371.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And unexpectedly reunite with our old cycling pals Quique and Alicia, who had taken their time tasting the local wine...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTICNXEoTWlft5L28WIbiJjxI7WBNtk_92hy0KZ1nBNlP57GKFnaRtuWQ5DQDs3Aq5XZMuaYbXRhY3C4jMWbb2J-s_FWkdToizZOAlD-ns8941UPbHhrCOA09_S14E58EbbMm8w0Wt6Muj/s1600/P1030375.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTICNXEoTWlft5L28WIbiJjxI7WBNtk_92hy0KZ1nBNlP57GKFnaRtuWQ5DQDs3Aq5XZMuaYbXRhY3C4jMWbb2J-s_FWkdToizZOAlD-ns8941UPbHhrCOA09_S14E58EbbMm8w0Wt6Muj/s1600/P1030375.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...as did Sol y Guille also from Bogotá. Cafayate, despite being touristy and all that, is still a chilled out place to rest for a few days, so we too got happily stuck there for more than we had planned for</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_4CjR_DuIbvccb0fsmKUT1ljDibacx1KLarvZcBnr0YOy03pgplzaYmjVlxtqtJ6nYPVzoiC6lHmKtjYDKJuSCPM6M-EdblwH3ofOUhSuiIQnuTORIDlObruIpcYzd1CvxLaU8d9cmPXW/s1600/IMG_2386.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_4CjR_DuIbvccb0fsmKUT1ljDibacx1KLarvZcBnr0YOy03pgplzaYmjVlxtqtJ6nYPVzoiC6lHmKtjYDKJuSCPM6M-EdblwH3ofOUhSuiIQnuTORIDlObruIpcYzd1CvxLaU8d9cmPXW/s1600/IMG_2386.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When we leave Cafayate, finally on the famous route 40, we have the pre-colombian Quilmes ruins in the region of Tucumán to look forward to.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc5iIrFZh295DwkcBI9OnBFxbI_jWRuiohbpT6bgl1EyyyYW83yskOCw1VyUd2eW7um5RaX26HX1bGLV4rRfiItLN_byXzDA1tZivgWf3GJi1WrsYhXMiVfdz4QZ3gR-IbJMqLsrx8aql1/s1600/P1030393.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc5iIrFZh295DwkcBI9OnBFxbI_jWRuiohbpT6bgl1EyyyYW83yskOCw1VyUd2eW7um5RaX26HX1bGLV4rRfiItLN_byXzDA1tZivgWf3GJi1WrsYhXMiVfdz4QZ3gR-IbJMqLsrx8aql1/s1600/P1030393.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quilmes, apart from being the name of one of the major Argentinian beers sold worldwide, is an impressive site dating from around the 9th century D.C. and where it´s believed more than 3000 people lived.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLlJF9PrBTqgoKw-u0Tz-_CRU4UTldM_SJG53KuzTMisPFF1JsiA6Kovg4gH9flJrorW5VgYr0rAmpy_PWy8B248Rh5Ceo1t4mo7NmEVmZ-9IpatItE8SwZqrN_C_7hYeDO7UxHPcRpjHp/s1600/P1030399.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLlJF9PrBTqgoKw-u0Tz-_CRU4UTldM_SJG53KuzTMisPFF1JsiA6Kovg4gH9flJrorW5VgYr0rAmpy_PWy8B248Rh5Ceo1t4mo7NmEVmZ-9IpatItE8SwZqrN_C_7hYeDO7UxHPcRpjHp/s1600/P1030399.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After Quilmes, we pressed on towards San José, where our kind host Juan is waiting for us. He´s done plenty of touring in Argentina and knows the area well. With his invaluable insight, we convince ourselves that the 40 is a bit too boring and a bit too hot for our liking, and decide to leave it (and with it, our summer vacation) sooner than expected.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy1IXEmEpwYzt_ilV4iCqQBMuSfWnkef1H5irNPF6am5nKBqGmw2Uatw2AXSslH5E7Grr8a2P1A_JhxkJKYfdCi7HCieRpvLGiUIz-9A00kizPHFuQZRccqYR33SfxZQ6-b5CPO_ToImkW/s1600/P1030410.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy1IXEmEpwYzt_ilV4iCqQBMuSfWnkef1H5irNPF6am5nKBqGmw2Uatw2AXSslH5E7Grr8a2P1A_JhxkJKYfdCi7HCieRpvLGiUIz-9A00kizPHFuQZRccqYR33SfxZQ6-b5CPO_ToImkW/s1600/P1030410.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We enjoyed a few more days on the 40...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcpwOelex-qKxw1qpuSh3yPNrZW5j6r-WcZdz3_FIsZQHMAmDIyI6V-EYS1jN30RYGjEfRHFo7y7c0vhYZzVgil7h5acA0fmH0vBrgb0SZUTv1nS3jrLCxT38RqfM0ZG6AmwfRgEya39qA/s1600/P1030418.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcpwOelex-qKxw1qpuSh3yPNrZW5j6r-WcZdz3_FIsZQHMAmDIyI6V-EYS1jN30RYGjEfRHFo7y7c0vhYZzVgil7h5acA0fmH0vBrgb0SZUTv1nS3jrLCxT38RqfM0ZG6AmwfRgEya39qA/s1600/P1030418.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...stopping by our old hometown of Londres...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKFLvAXjqaMw0yucSUN5-KkyZskAVw6KhMvJun2VxWKNSbZrwZp4vUH-HA179cqpJ0_MO1TFxEnFAA2mLFslArJcaI1_EamsdDzbd6W30lB-r-0hggTDcppv6YOhwC95C_dzcKUmwFhW2z/s1600/IMG_2402.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKFLvAXjqaMw0yucSUN5-KkyZskAVw6KhMvJun2VxWKNSbZrwZp4vUH-HA179cqpJ0_MO1TFxEnFAA2mLFslArJcaI1_EamsdDzbd6W30lB-r-0hggTDcppv6YOhwC95C_dzcKUmwFhW2z/s1600/IMG_2402.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...before veering West on a shortcut that was technically closed, over the Cuesta de Zapata.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT5iEZLb_JwSL7fRQ347ZBuO9KabI8IFU63DobwUzecoG4Vx3ivrGIS17pivJGMa_2ErlYNHxB-l8z-0xWSyaJdJUY2zSgnquxcHjTjZOOd-ulBL6-HpdLXPRWoyW7RqNZdO6lx9e4priB/s1600/P1030420.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT5iEZLb_JwSL7fRQ347ZBuO9KabI8IFU63DobwUzecoG4Vx3ivrGIS17pivJGMa_2ErlYNHxB-l8z-0xWSyaJdJUY2zSgnquxcHjTjZOOd-ulBL6-HpdLXPRWoyW7RqNZdO6lx9e4priB/s1600/P1030420.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back on dirt for a day, we felt at home again...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjkR-vmhevzZJD4vYpxL60t1yHGys2C6aXDh5_0wWnwifgKzSJMXflWbg3pJYPLDhNvAVU9A6TwB63sjFOtNJLcfLaUScQCRzDb8tBHFhX8cX5eraQiFce3XAzt-uWyGpKWIVtj47J6fhx/s1600/P1030428.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjkR-vmhevzZJD4vYpxL60t1yHGys2C6aXDh5_0wWnwifgKzSJMXflWbg3pJYPLDhNvAVU9A6TwB63sjFOtNJLcfLaUScQCRzDb8tBHFhX8cX5eraQiFce3XAzt-uWyGpKWIVtj47J6fhx/s1600/P1030428.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...but with the hot weather and knowledge that a comfortable town awaited us at the end of the day...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdp1mX76e4vvsEQ-nBY-EszfReSjBJeENnrZcF0uKAbwPGKDQe2lHGhHYygY3A3urOV60GFUyuqD__FS4jFsFkyQwUr4c_zLKnOdO0Uq0sMWZjJ8l0Rzp2U9mQ8z6gaFd9lFMI6askpqwI/s1600/P1030430.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdp1mX76e4vvsEQ-nBY-EszfReSjBJeENnrZcF0uKAbwPGKDQe2lHGhHYygY3A3urOV60GFUyuqD__FS4jFsFkyQwUr4c_zLKnOdO0Uq0sMWZjJ8l0Rzp2U9mQ8z6gaFd9lFMI6askpqwI/s1600/P1030430.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...we were still on vacation.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisvWxLyf-_eJXR0r8eU9lx-wPiaTFxFtlxElUFR7C8JHMddgIud8xNzOVc4N6yx1n3kWkQTiLj8y7TdpyFl0-y_e72qCiX-OgCfWywoLn2mD-qqYe4WDonGpC4nJhwkDwwM1uCKf1RdDbf/s1600/P1030436.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisvWxLyf-_eJXR0r8eU9lx-wPiaTFxFtlxElUFR7C8JHMddgIud8xNzOVc4N6yx1n3kWkQTiLj8y7TdpyFl0-y_e72qCiX-OgCfWywoLn2mD-qqYe4WDonGpC4nJhwkDwwM1uCKf1RdDbf/s1600/P1030436.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We went through ten liters of water in the eight hours that we spent on the Cuesta</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3kpvkKU91MUGe-6ymg2a-vj86RfOOxtkD-FRExzYg1lHE_rLGrnuaAEFYyxfhYpCAYQPAMndcWXTM0S9OJja-NsP4KAPxrNx1BwEZoofqM9bxV2nF3v4nf9MTx44NmOiVCv2mIWqJLbnS/s1600/IMG_2405.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3kpvkKU91MUGe-6ymg2a-vj86RfOOxtkD-FRExzYg1lHE_rLGrnuaAEFYyxfhYpCAYQPAMndcWXTM0S9OJja-NsP4KAPxrNx1BwEZoofqM9bxV2nF3v4nf9MTx44NmOiVCv2mIWqJLbnS/s1600/IMG_2405.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back in civilization on the other side, we again met up with the four Argentino cyclists that we had been playing tortoise and hare with since Cafayate. They are riding the length of the 40 in two week sections, since they only get two weeks off from work every year. At this pace they estimate it will take them seven more years to reach Ushuaia!</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKaS7xXpARU-eH3WmAR1eeHpsGnYVRVWbb1BhVNbkjv0HrnjbjiQujjc9u9vmlmo_9AZc-k0yZiswPGQDsrrGBYzMAwxdRhfl5VhfKexjdWk1u7xDxlaseh114UQAYlC5w-mhiXZw0doTa/s1600/P1030449.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKaS7xXpARU-eH3WmAR1eeHpsGnYVRVWbb1BhVNbkjv0HrnjbjiQujjc9u9vmlmo_9AZc-k0yZiswPGQDsrrGBYzMAwxdRhfl5VhfKexjdWk1u7xDxlaseh114UQAYlC5w-mhiXZw0doTa/s1600/P1030449.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camped in Tinogasta, they taught us to make <i>pizza a la parrilla</i></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizNVcco5vON2BgQDzqIbNWHAUiDKcOO6amvsFaBvq1ksyR0e0dUBw7gzVwHvD1_2hY_zukv1EsQ_liwVHsIPGKiFooB4K0WpntXzJmIKHyBTC7n6joeOU0u6uhYgPWzzhp09FRiyiIz-qP/s1600/P1030452.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizNVcco5vON2BgQDzqIbNWHAUiDKcOO6amvsFaBvq1ksyR0e0dUBw7gzVwHvD1_2hY_zukv1EsQ_liwVHsIPGKiFooB4K0WpntXzJmIKHyBTC7n6joeOU0u6uhYgPWzzhp09FRiyiIz-qP/s1600/P1030452.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving Tinogasta on the road to Fiambalá we detoured to the small viallage of Anillaco which surprised us with its adobe church and altar made entirely of mud</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVO2wjXmjJ9-7e3RCnBIRPuZ3mCkZ5W5jUpiIiqISvc9OaSwOAuWKF18uAfs3YUxHBl4McrOrrkPOy83epEcP1BtjABnanZSs7Kx3taH83iRU6PbpjOEShbSg_nY40O2P165h5Eh4dBz7s/s1600/P1030459.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVO2wjXmjJ9-7e3RCnBIRPuZ3mCkZ5W5jUpiIiqISvc9OaSwOAuWKF18uAfs3YUxHBl4McrOrrkPOy83epEcP1BtjABnanZSs7Kx3taH83iRU6PbpjOEShbSg_nY40O2P165h5Eh4dBz7s/s1600/P1030459.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The last day of summer vacation is always the worst. Leaving Anillaco on dirt, we are treated to some cool desert views...and some worrying sand clouds, meaning strong winds. The ride from here to Fiambalá was a test of both mental and physical endurance, as we were hit with winds of at least 80 km/h (later confirmed in town) coming in all directions except of course from the back. Add to that the 41 degrees C read by our thermometer (the water in our bottles was almost undrinkably hot) and you get the idea. The locals call it viento "zonda", and it really was scary at times.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoz1Ccj2iI-W4jZUpkcNoArg-jHWjBgnLxbOSOf6FVwkwkbz07jSNXaAQiww5KZBKtkFkBnuKjSwMZf59t4WTh08ZAkkLQQ496VvJEJmQoXabJiEC-0nFuM3zENnlFLO-srbI1D4KxqtAp/s1600/P1030466.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoz1Ccj2iI-W4jZUpkcNoArg-jHWjBgnLxbOSOf6FVwkwkbz07jSNXaAQiww5KZBKtkFkBnuKjSwMZf59t4WTh08ZAkkLQQ496VvJEJmQoXabJiEC-0nFuM3zENnlFLO-srbI1D4KxqtAp/s1600/P1030466.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Once in Fiambalá, and totally covered in sand and dirt, we rest and have a few icecreams...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsHBLceipU8_vy339G7qKNBsdw2pq78pERWE135EpvIJ-iReD3joXCA-_APaZ8WNAWs85HPycPzFLtUDT_tPeC9nlms9msJzeoC6S8twb51OA9iusJeDP0R4o34HKT1dUVzeg3WwPQYHMj/s1600/P1030467.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsHBLceipU8_vy339G7qKNBsdw2pq78pERWE135EpvIJ-iReD3joXCA-_APaZ8WNAWs85HPycPzFLtUDT_tPeC9nlms9msJzeoC6S8twb51OA9iusJeDP0R4o34HKT1dUVzeg3WwPQYHMj/s1600/P1030467.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Next up is Paso de San Francisco, and as experience has taught us, the wind always blows from the Chilean side. The pass should take us 5 or 6 days under normal conditions, no resupplying in between here and Copiapó, but with a headwind and having lost our beautiful acclimmatisation in the past few weeks, we take food for 8 days. All ready for a rather special Christmas on the Puna!</td></tr>
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<div>
Route notes:</div>
<div>
- San Antonio de Los Cobres to Purmamarca: </div>
<div>
The old route 40 heading North is unpaved and slow going. If in desperate need of water there are a few small farms en route and one village at km 30 or so (the village is signed but about 1km off the road). There is a small kiosko just after you join the main road from Paso Jama, and apart from that no services until Purmamarca. </div>
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- Purmamarca to Londres: </div>
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The route is all paved and very straightforward to Jujuy. We found it to be too high traffic for our liking, but there was always a large gravel shoulder, which although not as fast as pavement was in better condition than most of the roads we had been riding recently. </div>
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From Jujuy to Salta, Route 9, also called La Cornisa, is paved, much shorter distance, beautiful, and almost entirely traffic free. </div>
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From Salta to Cafayate we opted for Route 68, also paved, via the beautiful Quebrada de las Conchas. Locals told us there would be nothing between Alemania and Cafayate, but there are small tourist facilities where water and expensive drinks/snack food should be available. </div>
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From Cafayate to Londres via route 40 is very straightforward.</div>
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- Londres to Fiambala:</div>
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We took the Cuesta de Zapata which is technically a closed road, although some local traffic still uses it. There were a few steep rocky sections that might require pushing but other than that it is all perfectly rideable. Locals told us it could get dangerous after a rain because rocks can fall from above. The Pikes also have route notes for the <a href="http://andesbybike.com/argentina/routes/belen-to-tinogasta/">Cuesta de Zapata</a>. No water (apart from 5km from the start of the road where there is a house) or other facilities on route, and it can get damn hot, so bring plenty. From Tinogasta to Fiambala is also a straightfoward, paved road.</div>
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Albertohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15789158563391048740noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-27240172087528961612014-12-14T21:42:00.000+00:002014-12-14T22:02:22.815+00:00San Pedro de Atacama to San Antonio de los Cobres: riding into the winds of Argentina through the Puna<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<span style="text-align: left;">Getting to Chile, but specifically San Pedro de Atacama, was quite a shock to the system. After more than four months in the thin air of Perú and Bolivia, coming to the heat of the desert was a novelty. After almost a year in the ´developing´world, we felt like we were back in Europe. Recklessly drinking tap water without asking its provenance, buying fancy foods from stores where everything isn´t behind the counter, taking advantage of the fast internet, and the beer and wine that cost less than an almuerzo. It definitely felt strange. </span></div>
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Our days in San Pedro were not like most of the tourists that travel so far to get there and see the sights that abound in the area. We were lucky to spend a few relaxing days in the good company of other cyclists and our Warmshowers host Carlos, just on the outskirts of town, almost ignoring the hustle and bustle of San Pedro. </div>
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But our time in the desert was short-lived. Before long it would be time again to head to higher altitudes, this time in the form of the Puna that forms the geographic barrier between Chile and Argentina. Crossing into Argentina via the mostly unpaved Paso Sico, we savored the remote landscapes of the high Andes one last time, before descending to San Antonio de los Cobres, knowing it would be quite a while before we are up that high again. So, we loaded up with five days of food and left the oasis...</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIx7wpEIKt-Ms9i4puoRFTd8LEfqlWafzoAlsRRxoSRJ-yUpx3hqZSpjOpmnwnCqxrXXKKRtHhyBzB1oBs96MRMl5hkEVWrJGvboldP9w67vKujhGRyTMEFHnYbvNPF2Ni_K6jFbBu7vpe/s1600/P1030020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIx7wpEIKt-Ms9i4puoRFTd8LEfqlWafzoAlsRRxoSRJ-yUpx3hqZSpjOpmnwnCqxrXXKKRtHhyBzB1oBs96MRMl5hkEVWrJGvboldP9w67vKujhGRyTMEFHnYbvNPF2Ni_K6jFbBu7vpe/s1600/P1030020.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In San Pedro there was plenty of time for map-gazing... giving us far more ideas than we will ever have time to carry out.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX7jSl6iX-3Ta4hn4CFhX6DKA3UUvkpWUOGTwgZlvvkQfoTx6fy2sr943nN_yERBJlWtngRSiJZhswJemYwFPbkvuEmixlkI6etRiednztdgksdTyUqxDNANFLutQEBvAghjWp1C2ecLMA/s1600/P1030046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX7jSl6iX-3Ta4hn4CFhX6DKA3UUvkpWUOGTwgZlvvkQfoTx6fy2sr943nN_yERBJlWtngRSiJZhswJemYwFPbkvuEmixlkI6etRiednztdgksdTyUqxDNANFLutQEBvAghjWp1C2ecLMA/s1600/P1030046.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Valle de la Luna is within easy reach of San Pedro, and so Alberto took a day off to go visit. Despite it being potentially touristy, if you avoid the morning and evening hours, you have it to yourself. If you can cope with the desert sun, that is!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAZDBGq_s8f6tbZ5vfgwZFT4lxEh81kE7wihrKGqqY18wQzaJkXDci0VYEomHNpnGHHNn4MwdQtxwU-GFpcFFg20XEGvcDUYGOO4bZZejRFkFYGkQ66Byk7aHNHQLBw5ccbTsGpMUKOvND/s1600/P1030062.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAZDBGq_s8f6tbZ5vfgwZFT4lxEh81kE7wihrKGqqY18wQzaJkXDci0VYEomHNpnGHHNn4MwdQtxwU-GFpcFFg20XEGvcDUYGOO4bZZejRFkFYGkQ66Byk7aHNHQLBw5ccbTsGpMUKOvND/s1600/P1030062.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the landscapes were simply incredible</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNC2PdRRe_m2rnrbgUV0V0X5u5QzDqRlo_jlI_yhgp-Y0Z088ApYvSn3c-fdCMXn819GERUbquTaYQYA9pXjp90kMOr91qI2b8Nft7Nf_OUIrwQj1L_kTnfwUCSAtqg0u1dfyNnWa4aMZZ/s1600/P1030091.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNC2PdRRe_m2rnrbgUV0V0X5u5QzDqRlo_jlI_yhgp-Y0Z088ApYvSn3c-fdCMXn819GERUbquTaYQYA9pXjp90kMOr91qI2b8Nft7Nf_OUIrwQj1L_kTnfwUCSAtqg0u1dfyNnWa4aMZZ/s1600/P1030091.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After a wonderful few days with Carlos, it was time to say goodbye, cut Alberto´s high altitude beard, and make a break for Argentina. We also said goodbye to Quique, Alicia, and Julien who took the main pass, Paso Jama.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEDAgzItyy4zRQR4xRM7ahto9VRPdgUmEZkN-v7AjvJqFOUucGQUCHIxyEK7Y7k_ptuh9hKuR35VWWAIj6zwXo8OqiFNNJJS1_b44ZRgedmOTltTQD7Vvb8LAeoXdp3FVPvsLSQoSk37q6/s1600/P1030095.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEDAgzItyy4zRQR4xRM7ahto9VRPdgUmEZkN-v7AjvJqFOUucGQUCHIxyEK7Y7k_ptuh9hKuR35VWWAIj6zwXo8OqiFNNJJS1_b44ZRgedmOTltTQD7Vvb8LAeoXdp3FVPvsLSQoSk37q6/s1600/P1030095.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving San Pedro we pick up fellow cyclist <a href="http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?o=Sh&doc_id=12098&v=37x">Lee</a>, and together made fast progress on the best paved road we´ve enjoyed for months...despite the bleak scenery.</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkiRxce4BE05gkINh7HayX2Yvz8eIX03OFBDvU2g9Ss9QCHpOSxxYm4r5srmIft9_ifgZuiokSXFLNXI3Fd6iezuhcK8xqx9fT42KBq7HU5L_i1ZXZFI3rUBGAqyMD1paEeZQRr7sw2j9d/s1600/P1030103.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkiRxce4BE05gkINh7HayX2Yvz8eIX03OFBDvU2g9Ss9QCHpOSxxYm4r5srmIft9_ifgZuiokSXFLNXI3Fd6iezuhcK8xqx9fT42KBq7HU5L_i1ZXZFI3rUBGAqyMD1paEeZQRr7sw2j9d/s1600/P1030103.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">But as the road turns East towards Argentina, the scenery changes and the the gradient steepens</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1VaW7WcILaBzbu5jLZy9F9lLIVVhGC5nyvdmAH6-4FzhKzNULutMmw8tz1FjiN8W58qhBA-fT25njHO1tFU_i7SGygEWxx7hAKqvoBSFZuRn1ehBVibguptL0qUE40Uz6OTTEuVIXtcga/s1600/P1030112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1VaW7WcILaBzbu5jLZy9F9lLIVVhGC5nyvdmAH6-4FzhKzNULutMmw8tz1FjiN8W58qhBA-fT25njHO1tFU_i7SGygEWxx7hAKqvoBSFZuRn1ehBVibguptL0qUE40Uz6OTTEuVIXtcga/s1600/P1030112.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We stayed the night in Socaire, the last proper village in a few days. The adobe church is a tourist sight, but for us, this town will be remembered as the one where two rude <i>carabineros </i>(Chilean police) wake us up abruptly with a tent shake, in the middle of the night, to enquire about who we were, where we were headed and why we camped in town (and when they were satisfied with our account, left without so much as a ´good night´).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZjxGHqX23URwP8b2R2YUjEBD6KnZ286xhV5rpRF0xIOar0K7igy7OdzClf5CibEhEa7TJYq5L1ZnMPv9elJ9jpRdQxU1mY7sVe5iwxPZ4nMbOCgHauSYI2XhhPkZUTRwKLil38Ksw13B3/s1600/P1030120.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZjxGHqX23URwP8b2R2YUjEBD6KnZ286xhV5rpRF0xIOar0K7igy7OdzClf5CibEhEa7TJYq5L1ZnMPv9elJ9jpRdQxU1mY7sVe5iwxPZ4nMbOCgHauSYI2XhhPkZUTRwKLil38Ksw13B3/s1600/P1030120.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The following morning we reached the first plateau, and get back to enjoying the magnificent views of the Puna</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPYuHvup3RCUQ3YGlWNPSFDFImOXhiGSNvhyphenhyphenkxbARfAD0cSlFDLzXqQt4cZOAZuEuUFPs94uwK4wDWfm-nBuC1_TquS9XPXP5kXSzK8ZVDL1KaHMpeejs8H_kXgPQsV1ZczTNYjx-xbTm5/s1600/P1030132.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPYuHvup3RCUQ3YGlWNPSFDFImOXhiGSNvhyphenhyphenkxbARfAD0cSlFDLzXqQt4cZOAZuEuUFPs94uwK4wDWfm-nBuC1_TquS9XPXP5kXSzK8ZVDL1KaHMpeejs8H_kXgPQsV1ZczTNYjx-xbTm5/s1600/P1030132.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Then kept going round beautiful Cerro Miscanti (5622 m)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8ihgPFk7XiJemccW5s8nn1zEvpYp4fvCPV86prSpAfDktoBV_skMuQXu1dB_SwxN8CUgcNXLbgfTSHk-9UFGEGuvLbfZ0hOmnuYix6o8UuCYN5Iap_E8GhrzAgecsPg4eGpDC1YCuEt5H/s1600/IMG_2264.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8ihgPFk7XiJemccW5s8nn1zEvpYp4fvCPV86prSpAfDktoBV_skMuQXu1dB_SwxN8CUgcNXLbgfTSHk-9UFGEGuvLbfZ0hOmnuYix6o8UuCYN5Iap_E8GhrzAgecsPg4eGpDC1YCuEt5H/s1600/IMG_2264.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After another short climb we hit the salar de aguas calientes, one of the most beautiful we´ve seen</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9_pN39d_PhPjElAysjl-pEyeCChBAJT1hImtD8FK4MFVqsGVcD7odCTpTqBeo5Wn-qMvuwp1tj2iVDC4aI5kSbWWk3o389uIjK5LzkuHRnkgBjXeGH8bHxU-prRHnap9FsxomsKzGNjfm/s1600/IMG_2271.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9_pN39d_PhPjElAysjl-pEyeCChBAJT1hImtD8FK4MFVqsGVcD7odCTpTqBeo5Wn-qMvuwp1tj2iVDC4aI5kSbWWk3o389uIjK5LzkuHRnkgBjXeGH8bHxU-prRHnap9FsxomsKzGNjfm/s1600/IMG_2271.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And as usual, our priority becomes to find a sheltered place to spend the night due to the wind. Check out the plants, which are permanently bent because of it</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6fg5pZcKxDXcwCLjmmm03bqoiWfcDx6G8QvAng4z1nNAMgYVvoR0mUjwmxymxGO6n5k0MTl5L1R0lQpIjzsHvkMJYAQiyQxSEKVOxIeHmQgLxAOQfHSEEdpGcc5ENKDIASYpYghTqfrIw/s1600/P1030172.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6fg5pZcKxDXcwCLjmmm03bqoiWfcDx6G8QvAng4z1nNAMgYVvoR0mUjwmxymxGO6n5k0MTl5L1R0lQpIjzsHvkMJYAQiyQxSEKVOxIeHmQgLxAOQfHSEEdpGcc5ENKDIASYpYghTqfrIw/s1600/P1030172.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIkHgZQvqB57lvVBiknMXEkzNtwLOgGm_M4Qp2nhf_3XretAWVn5O5IOiXKMUJUB8ApSzBElhXx2hT76NUE-TK7Nr56hfGWnW6lQMwwN3d-kKW-Y7ljukZZ6p1JGnLQw0aUbzwIfvKKyiS/s1600/P1030148.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIkHgZQvqB57lvVBiknMXEkzNtwLOgGm_M4Qp2nhf_3XretAWVn5O5IOiXKMUJUB8ApSzBElhXx2hT76NUE-TK7Nr56hfGWnW6lQMwwN3d-kKW-Y7ljukZZ6p1JGnLQw0aUbzwIfvKKyiS/s1600/P1030148.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3upvEa2GfbiE6x7DDiTreLiA-6zj0vemVf5Wnbx-0c6uv8Ghbo3E7jaifoEFGQA4s8yjuU_LDHxH0J9hZN4xgyhx3YIrbGWl2pDpDQNgjHD2KyDoqEKksLeI6Jl9S6nEMWQNTvsbfstDk/s1600/P1030162.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3upvEa2GfbiE6x7DDiTreLiA-6zj0vemVf5Wnbx-0c6uv8Ghbo3E7jaifoEFGQA4s8yjuU_LDHxH0J9hZN4xgyhx3YIrbGWl2pDpDQNgjHD2KyDoqEKksLeI6Jl9S6nEMWQNTvsbfstDk/s1600/P1030162.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luckily, we knew of a good sheltered camp place right by the salar, on its NW side. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif6qV3Xm5sAzFwktsEzUUgQkpWa7gK5T36HDJ5UMI2rUAQeCe3QdY2Nt_dE6NBf0UjAq_O4XrH_di9AzJ90jO1S4jfuS0iYDTQ522UYbtWu6odI7SW8gtPFL6UPmkW_7eiPtyXv7hxtLqH/s1600/P1030176.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif6qV3Xm5sAzFwktsEzUUgQkpWa7gK5T36HDJ5UMI2rUAQeCe3QdY2Nt_dE6NBf0UjAq_O4XrH_di9AzJ90jO1S4jfuS0iYDTQ522UYbtWu6odI7SW8gtPFL6UPmkW_7eiPtyXv7hxtLqH/s1600/P1030176.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the morning we ride to the last pass before leaving Chile. The kind gentlemen looking after the copper mine (to be opened in 2025 they reckoned) not only refilled our water bottles, but gave us a huge pasta and steak lunch that we struggled to finish. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxOYn05iHGzA3WldYTWMmGgGF9wMnCvsCOUzoVeUPfJY5d598spXEPlPKd-Gx-dz48dvb1MpwSAMlb5uqV3GcWGF4DTP0DFtibUNrJRo0K3PKqbtw03jf1ueUVriSgLT3eWdqjVGWJOFXZ/s1600/IMG_2276.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxOYn05iHGzA3WldYTWMmGgGF9wMnCvsCOUzoVeUPfJY5d598spXEPlPKd-Gx-dz48dvb1MpwSAMlb5uqV3GcWGF4DTP0DFtibUNrJRo0K3PKqbtw03jf1ueUVriSgLT3eWdqjVGWJOFXZ/s1600/IMG_2276.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And then, after reaching the top of the last pass with the powerful help of the Puna winds (which literally pushed us up 15% hills without a single pedal stroke), we enter another new country. Note the change in the road´s condition quality as you cross the border line!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8h3n8D1Pu9W0-1eH2Zm8yJkgHHzjhfgZ85Ee-GWiJXAZnm0iFVH6EvPdtZ6AVhwkwsW9LvEkc5Z5pr23Ea0jRuWGPSSuXH-E6iVycXV7R4OniCX900z3bwGevs1wHfv3ogsXdYSv8d9ME/s1600/P1030181.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8h3n8D1Pu9W0-1eH2Zm8yJkgHHzjhfgZ85Ee-GWiJXAZnm0iFVH6EvPdtZ6AVhwkwsW9LvEkc5Z5pr23Ea0jRuWGPSSuXH-E6iVycXV7R4OniCX900z3bwGevs1wHfv3ogsXdYSv8d9ME/s1600/P1030181.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not much <i>movimiento</i> at the argentian border. Only a car every few days. Once we cleared customs, the <i>gendarmes</i> at the border crossing gave us a whole apartment in which we spent the night. Luxurious, and with free wifi. Welcome to Argentina!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMOg2GDq5fMqoaeTuamjet2cOY2DJuKQ0NzhASzh5EgjZpD6m_iII6bkBffZoI52RvxxuEZXUSULbqgZPdjlgkbAyIqp6GVNdXjILhDXTgk2bJl4cDo-bP8ssIo-FATgR1wY6ajtEoHche/s1600/P1030187.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMOg2GDq5fMqoaeTuamjet2cOY2DJuKQ0NzhASzh5EgjZpD6m_iII6bkBffZoI52RvxxuEZXUSULbqgZPdjlgkbAyIqp6GVNdXjILhDXTgk2bJl4cDo-bP8ssIo-FATgR1wY6ajtEoHche/s1600/P1030187.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The following morning we leave the aduana on the main road towards Salta - in much better condition that the suggested left turn by the <a href="http://andesbybike.com/chile/routes/san-antonio-to-san-pedro/">Pikes´</a> that leads to Catua</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzqulib4TQ6HuNwRm062aRzGe-qTXAR2p9JPXfaW-rBqghMWroXq-YH4-sUe02tTCHGgRKmnNGzL0w6QQDHOs8_TEd1eDT0iNHp5ZcR2hpm2ipnSFin8NkfgmBUztV7b0IHQoH2xMQwIto/s1600/P1030191.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzqulib4TQ6HuNwRm062aRzGe-qTXAR2p9JPXfaW-rBqghMWroXq-YH4-sUe02tTCHGgRKmnNGzL0w6QQDHOs8_TEd1eDT0iNHp5ZcR2hpm2ipnSFin8NkfgmBUztV7b0IHQoH2xMQwIto/s1600/P1030191.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After spending the night with the local policeman in Olacapato (again, fast wifi and argentinian hospitality, all for free). At midday we topped the last high altitude pass in a while. And with this one, we reckoned it must´ve been more than 25 passes above 4500 m! Catch ya later, Puna..</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The final descent into San Antonio was kinda fun. We had a stiff headwind that saw us precariously pedalling downhill, and only managing 12 km/h. Luckily for us though, we had strong tailwinds the whole rest of the route, and could not really imagine how hard it is to do it the other way...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEoz_t9ldI7pBqzo4eI_vuRuPTt7qKoPXz6rqubcq909zeqGCIt17gYp7jMGW1JVgftToAgybHPO2YIMMzMoCbF6ZhKLhOPY1duWRjetinky-VwvDSnzbTBWYZjpeiPzSbv6ISyVNMtUmy/s1600/P1030197.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEoz_t9ldI7pBqzo4eI_vuRuPTt7qKoPXz6rqubcq909zeqGCIt17gYp7jMGW1JVgftToAgybHPO2YIMMzMoCbF6ZhKLhOPY1duWRjetinky-VwvDSnzbTBWYZjpeiPzSbv6ISyVNMtUmy/s1600/P1030197.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not much happening in the warm air of San Antonio, other than being a base for the high altitude army folks, and for having a great municipal campsite for free, just behind the church.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG_FfUiKkzzfDvHaJ8bdo1ex4mpFJE0XY9wz2z6Ga0zHx_cVbqgbnPR4DiUWhg2bmGWFDXQ6TrMOQHKZSealDS_kpd_KQZ-54-9xeCf1ed258dBh-A3PjBLp2tv51LYVvqSFYOW67tqKA7/s1600/P1030215.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG_FfUiKkzzfDvHaJ8bdo1ex4mpFJE0XY9wz2z6Ga0zHx_cVbqgbnPR4DiUWhg2bmGWFDXQ6TrMOQHKZSealDS_kpd_KQZ-54-9xeCf1ed258dBh-A3PjBLp2tv51LYVvqSFYOW67tqKA7/s1600/P1030215.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And of course, a new country means new currency. All tourists must get used to the high-tech argentinian pesos, not quite as fancy as their chilean neighours.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjatV54pm5eyAGfo-o2l9RUhkRI5hO7jBHpC0paFhAhHzR3C-AO7zw9_puR7kPpXgwsexvkDDFpmI56erF6svozxC0XBv7cZMXVcMyMfHV5ytKnWnlzKrH2HqwgEpUtJLh24LjFyYu99LEN/s1600/P1030261.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjatV54pm5eyAGfo-o2l9RUhkRI5hO7jBHpC0paFhAhHzR3C-AO7zw9_puR7kPpXgwsexvkDDFpmI56erF6svozxC0XBv7cZMXVcMyMfHV5ytKnWnlzKrH2HqwgEpUtJLh24LjFyYu99LEN/s1600/P1030261.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">And at long last, empanadas!</td></tr>
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Route notes:<br />
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As always, our thanks to the Pikes and other fellow cyclists for their excellent route notes and comments on the <a href="http://andesbybike.com/chile/routes/san-antonio-to-san-pedro/">Paso Sico</a>. A few other points worth adding:<br />
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- The road on the Chilean side is paved and when not is hard-packed and of excellent quality. Once in Argentina, there´s lots of corrugation and sand, but we did not push at all.<br />
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- The wind was blowing from Argentina to Chile all the time while we were doing the route. From other peoples´comments and those collected from the people we met en-route, it´s almost always the same. So, allow more days and suffering if cycling it from Argentina.<br />
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- We carried five days worth of food from San Pedro, mostly because we are picky with what we eat and there´s more choice there. But there´s shops in Socaire (well-stocked) and Olacapato on the Argentinian side.<br />
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- We slept at the Argentinian border and then again in Olacapato with the police both times. The water at the Argentian border is not drinkable out of the ta but they can give you drinking water. </div>
Albertohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15789158563391048740noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-51063291007486529642014-12-12T15:04:00.000+00:002014-12-12T17:15:23.887+00:00Uyuni to San Pedro de Atacama via the Lagunas route: riding the most classic sandy road of Bolivia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Ever since we started researching our South America bike trip, there was one route that stood out amongst cycle tourists chronicles. One where the thermometers promised to read well below -20C at night, one where cyclists reported pushing for km of thick sand, and one where blogs mentioned stiff headwinds no matter what direction you travelled into. The <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sur_L%C3%ADpez_Province">Sur Lipez</a> province, in South West Bolivia, in the Potosí Department, is house to some of the harshest conditions we have encountered on our trip. And for some strange reason, it is also a magnet for adventurous cycle tourists (as well as thousands of not-so-adventurous jeep tourists). </div>
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Cyclists who never hit dirt roads make a special diversion and go do Sur Lipez to ride the famous Laguna route. For us, after having ridden a few days in similar conditions in Chile, it required a bit of discussion before embarking on a route that promised plenty of pushing through sand. We love dirt roads, but pushing is not really our thing. So we debated whether to divert East through the warmer climates of Sucre, and down to Bolivia´s wine capital of Tarija, in the South... Once we hit Uyuni town though, we had already made up our minds - how can we not ride such a classic route, even if it involves some pushing and harsh climate? How can we miss out on those supposedly beautiful high altitude dessert landscapes? </div>
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So, with some fresh updated information from fellow cycle tourists who had just completed the route, we loaded up of bikes with 10 days worth of food and set off to ride the classic lagunas. Our fears of speeding jeeps and rude tourists sharing the roads never materialised - in fact we found most of them (more on this on the route notes) to be courteous and generous, giving us food and water even without asking. If you, like us, have doubts about taking or not the traditional lagunas route, we hope the pictures below help you decide. Oh, and with regards to the pushing, as of November 2014, we only pushed for about 5 km on the whole route, the longest stretch just after the Hotel del Desierto.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlZUH7cWkQ8AgTh52h08Uyt28R6lphxdrb2dyg2obS615WGk_XHWvdAqFgTk79mEDjvaZfWi5P9Mohzy_mSzXk3IvuTKcPS3aRANYgPcnXeb4mvsKDVjpK4Pd07yhQ8p2PTVlyRO2IuBcc/s1600/P1020537.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlZUH7cWkQ8AgTh52h08Uyt28R6lphxdrb2dyg2obS615WGk_XHWvdAqFgTk79mEDjvaZfWi5P9Mohzy_mSzXk3IvuTKcPS3aRANYgPcnXeb4mvsKDVjpK4Pd07yhQ8p2PTVlyRO2IuBcc/s1600/P1020537.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Uyuni is certainly not the most exciting Bolivian town...flooded with tourists heading to the salares and Sur Lípez. However, the train cemetery just outside of town, is quite a thing...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-iRLFeaEQatMJ6GDAkb69wg-9VJKBzWgfnNuRtf47EFJD4aMhBf8nxp6NH1fprW7RJhufIB6RXBYtxRuvSWvTASrOqdnxt99wf9FYO5t5WXtZj9AFeM2PmS75APduvhR746XChZaJNbmR/s1600/IMG_2173.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-iRLFeaEQatMJ6GDAkb69wg-9VJKBzWgfnNuRtf47EFJD4aMhBf8nxp6NH1fprW7RJhufIB6RXBYtxRuvSWvTASrOqdnxt99wf9FYO5t5WXtZj9AFeM2PmS75APduvhR746XChZaJNbmR/s1600/IMG_2173.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving Uyuni with Quique and Alicia, we made good progress on the 701 to Alota, which surprisingly, was very quiet and almost paved</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7BJEpbTm7_BiRDrJzA7nQK3z_PhnW2MEOB9FvuU5p-l6CltrBGXaPKl1xvkeUVMJ3tZkIHaTmzcj1kGcN5xHRpP5QBiX_fGx3BGk3iJGEm17ZxtsB8I68nfdEir4VJ5JsMpObdKmXdmEz/s1600/IMG_2171.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7BJEpbTm7_BiRDrJzA7nQK3z_PhnW2MEOB9FvuU5p-l6CltrBGXaPKl1xvkeUVMJ3tZkIHaTmzcj1kGcN5xHRpP5QBiX_fGx3BGk3iJGEm17ZxtsB8I68nfdEir4VJ5JsMpObdKmXdmEz/s1600/IMG_2171.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So quiet that sometimes we even wondered why the put these signs up!?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfB428OiulVLc16o0lbRBHVzJq-lr1CYEgD7AHuY9R056eDEDBik49rnsiWw7jxEkWdeLLMsps7kjGYnExC2Be7aUBe2I88xz1tVdGQen8X-QLhjIn0mnnpFXR5ay6JhvvBojt_AS7f3sy/s1600/IMG_2184.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfB428OiulVLc16o0lbRBHVzJq-lr1CYEgD7AHuY9R056eDEDBik49rnsiWw7jxEkWdeLLMsps7kjGYnExC2Be7aUBe2I88xz1tVdGQen8X-QLhjIn0mnnpFXR5ay6JhvvBojt_AS7f3sy/s1600/IMG_2184.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As usual, in the afternoon, the winds pick up and we are on the look out for sheltered places to eat or sleep</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbCsCJoTcgKfpSz_9P8_gbhJqzpwDJ5DxiqM7Nxt4k0ijXYswZbrjeMNMTQVsPJil5jlzAcyyzEZQpm2dN8s7t4GEpL31BkUGDvLA0xKzGuDohLqJHNj2T53taFoxHfVpOyKoKjupUErZ3/s1600/P1020560.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbCsCJoTcgKfpSz_9P8_gbhJqzpwDJ5DxiqM7Nxt4k0ijXYswZbrjeMNMTQVsPJil5jlzAcyyzEZQpm2dN8s7t4GEpL31BkUGDvLA0xKzGuDohLqJHNj2T53taFoxHfVpOyKoKjupUErZ3/s1600/P1020560.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After the first night camped by a bridge, we pressed on towards Villa Alota...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKsop7DAALKRbQJu7hHSVDxND2uoiHt5qU01D6AuNzeYKgXkyhANgsXt8Kr5dei-odWy4Y4QaUe9vHS92VFsk_Pv3PoV2jCwWdoissOWLyFuZQ5oUbQxgHwoxwnRY9LY1gMRdBqD6VZaa2/s1600/P1020555.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKsop7DAALKRbQJu7hHSVDxND2uoiHt5qU01D6AuNzeYKgXkyhANgsXt8Kr5dei-odWy4Y4QaUe9vHS92VFsk_Pv3PoV2jCwWdoissOWLyFuZQ5oUbQxgHwoxwnRY9LY1gMRdBqD6VZaa2/s1600/P1020555.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...re-stocking on calories for less than $2...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGlpXNIatr5Jof2SM9JGFZjYpAX4A6DlXEq_DoX45QdpkgW5k4JHTSLrDDJzeR5gw6SxJo5rzdnrdADzZ-9MJQZCuHgIqObbJ2LcnmKG01UFFiwOXJm6n8_kT5WAXU0WkLe8ky6VfatNmH/s1600/P1020567.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGlpXNIatr5Jof2SM9JGFZjYpAX4A6DlXEq_DoX45QdpkgW5k4JHTSLrDDJzeR5gw6SxJo5rzdnrdADzZ-9MJQZCuHgIqObbJ2LcnmKG01UFFiwOXJm6n8_kT5WAXU0WkLe8ky6VfatNmH/s1600/P1020567.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...until we reach Alota nearly at sunset.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqhktw1RZolXYyFdT1GSjRJrA2trqXU7DDKXBWymDo6yPRxeI2Rxg1dp_l2ztucnAb5x_OjsL_Pi7YsVOu2aEr5CguQMQfnKlp7UyUW4H4pEGN8xTqLc2d-8ZyF1r0r_jgDQ8YFCftIVaI/s1600/P1020580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqhktw1RZolXYyFdT1GSjRJrA2trqXU7DDKXBWymDo6yPRxeI2Rxg1dp_l2ztucnAb5x_OjsL_Pi7YsVOu2aEr5CguQMQfnKlp7UyUW4H4pEGN8xTqLc2d-8ZyF1r0r_jgDQ8YFCftIVaI/s1600/P1020580.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The following day we climb to the forest of rocks right on the main 701 road...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizjS8W08-ntknudGwXHI-T8O1QUf4HzGeUANG8UMNWCawniLmeBzFxA4WLFhRpbIO72OntN2jEXcKRrX_c11szZnxjq1Cu0F30vMTjtLBrXOgdw5qYWvax4YMl2THtQnS933cccRwmuFzL/s1600/P1020605.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizjS8W08-ntknudGwXHI-T8O1QUf4HzGeUANG8UMNWCawniLmeBzFxA4WLFhRpbIO72OntN2jEXcKRrX_c11szZnxjq1Cu0F30vMTjtLBrXOgdw5qYWvax4YMl2THtQnS933cccRwmuFzL/s1600/P1020605.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...before turning off towards the lagunas proper and setting up camp in the windy pampa.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNHn0eDy3x0XC_MsJLBWpnipqBVPB0J067D4e8u9FDapNeKEVhQRj8mk3IRZp9itZ4PfPintZ3A5y3EEC_eiW6pZjZMRAQ4Pjo-NixqsYWdZXjhzMpf04ZOYpaCo_jM7yS-raSRFcBScxi/s1600/P1020623.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNHn0eDy3x0XC_MsJLBWpnipqBVPB0J067D4e8u9FDapNeKEVhQRj8mk3IRZp9itZ4PfPintZ3A5y3EEC_eiW6pZjZMRAQ4Pjo-NixqsYWdZXjhzMpf04ZOYpaCo_jM7yS-raSRFcBScxi/s1600/P1020623.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The next day we descended...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIDk5NsXbQuflmgtq2Al3TBMzfCu50lPFY4ayGfPsoRUp0wwCMTYOlPbTPbn_a9UhUK8idxakYMli7Dgx3l9OTKSgs1X2-FA8PyDN9rrVMPaxjHBZdjQS2o1VAO7BbPM50okntPdeCyhtY/s1600/P1020648.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIDk5NsXbQuflmgtq2Al3TBMzfCu50lPFY4ayGfPsoRUp0wwCMTYOlPbTPbn_a9UhUK8idxakYMli7Dgx3l9OTKSgs1X2-FA8PyDN9rrVMPaxjHBZdjQS2o1VAO7BbPM50okntPdeCyhtY/s1600/P1020648.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...To flamingo-filled Laguna Hedionda.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-UyER0uc7CCYqvx2tJ0Z_Eu-pf7DjRWnE4dd4t9dXdLRySf4UzKZBVCJHruKPxwa3MKO0gEPjvD6hEYAcTjWt7R9itAFflB0qy8G1s0sw-ZF_1ZKHaY5wLm2BxUxHPsGeWWD0qR_roHLV/s1600/P1020676.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-UyER0uc7CCYqvx2tJ0Z_Eu-pf7DjRWnE4dd4t9dXdLRySf4UzKZBVCJHruKPxwa3MKO0gEPjvD6hEYAcTjWt7R9itAFflB0qy8G1s0sw-ZF_1ZKHaY5wLm2BxUxHPsGeWWD0qR_roHLV/s1600/P1020676.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The views were stunning, but the skies were threatening. </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaIgX1xst5XBWyV0JOodJXJh4jfpiuYKTu8ZgN7ahDQ4fiX9JCfKFgF3Xo1uMlSZPh7c-ZMjPna0VMOL47BI0KjGiLf0n_kijMfZARNGq5BZRzYDInIdQDHQ99c4UYOmI_g_XTfbt1IAvZ/s1600/IMG_2192.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaIgX1xst5XBWyV0JOodJXJh4jfpiuYKTu8ZgN7ahDQ4fiX9JCfKFgF3Xo1uMlSZPh7c-ZMjPna0VMOL47BI0KjGiLf0n_kijMfZARNGq5BZRzYDInIdQDHQ99c4UYOmI_g_XTfbt1IAvZ/s1600/IMG_2192.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As it started to rain, we sought shelter in the restaurant by the lake, waiting to see if it would pass. </td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbJh5HwM-QRkYNg9GRmrN0rUnZ5RXzmnSfI5I82V15NIkj8xO0e37Caq77v0koEGZ8ViW3CpCVun-ep6QjQHOaQvGo31_lSxwJRVg0aUO3Uozgirv19dzQrudGNq1WoQCLlYsb1raZTnO5/s1600/P1020693.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbJh5HwM-QRkYNg9GRmrN0rUnZ5RXzmnSfI5I82V15NIkj8xO0e37Caq77v0koEGZ8ViW3CpCVun-ep6QjQHOaQvGo31_lSxwJRVg0aUO3Uozgirv19dzQrudGNq1WoQCLlYsb1raZTnO5/s1600/P1020693.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The flamingos did not seem to mind the crap weather at all...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHsng5BzRLlGMdnxbo-hPHqSmVAao4Shhmw6Hc53nkvIPgeKC2yTF6TOan30J5Zvfw-jHlzeG-oVmctZPDobB8EcKUnEyikNLFm6ucPTSPYiIJnVGNPA_sWQqbm83N0X1vffb5xCFGXOFR/s1600/P1020667.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHsng5BzRLlGMdnxbo-hPHqSmVAao4Shhmw6Hc53nkvIPgeKC2yTF6TOan30J5Zvfw-jHlzeG-oVmctZPDobB8EcKUnEyikNLFm6ucPTSPYiIJnVGNPA_sWQqbm83N0X1vffb5xCFGXOFR/s1600/P1020667.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Eventually, with no improvement, we decide to stay the night. The restaurant owner gives us a small space to sleep indoors.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW6_sFbn8zzGpKTFEphJScQB8PyOWg-rALAG0MoiCg0HwzR_tt8k3gopj6oSrrjSaKFyDv6yel7qEW7IYwDmnkAYL2CXr2hlrKgSKRMZRJs9fJqu5vlzNtCy0oUHgQp5HJnyPI1-TA3DIq/s1600/P1020706.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW6_sFbn8zzGpKTFEphJScQB8PyOWg-rALAG0MoiCg0HwzR_tt8k3gopj6oSrrjSaKFyDv6yel7qEW7IYwDmnkAYL2CXr2hlrKgSKRMZRJs9fJqu5vlzNtCy0oUHgQp5HJnyPI1-TA3DIq/s1600/P1020706.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It does allow us to witness the spectacular sunset.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkrj5_K713vbgGwDLeN2watdYHJ16W74ypZznRIIDNNQXQpxgZQ41lQ-OsfsHZIyn1hecna6Xy9fB_Ii8EPx_T1K2N70guMsxriHiXlsr-Xk0YkQZ0MKAyx6rQ2wZB507V_qQkGMWX6Hmb/s1600/P1020730.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkrj5_K713vbgGwDLeN2watdYHJ16W74ypZznRIIDNNQXQpxgZQ41lQ-OsfsHZIyn1hecna6Xy9fB_Ii8EPx_T1K2N70guMsxriHiXlsr-Xk0YkQZ0MKAyx6rQ2wZB507V_qQkGMWX6Hmb/s1600/P1020730.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The weather has not improved in the morning, but we set off anyway.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqVwvSAQkmwd1Yi6hvnsAUC3OaiyjUvb-gUKdw4XaxaU7suHTSV1o5Djy5pVvfBFk9T6h3bkBQJgpzerCYUjy4_unycSW8JjfhVaA1bMGy7PHrRx8xQ2mqaGqqd3kLina8XhS7yHjBgRz7/s1600/P1020737.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqVwvSAQkmwd1Yi6hvnsAUC3OaiyjUvb-gUKdw4XaxaU7suHTSV1o5Djy5pVvfBFk9T6h3bkBQJgpzerCYUjy4_unycSW8JjfhVaA1bMGy7PHrRx8xQ2mqaGqqd3kLina8XhS7yHjBgRz7/s1600/P1020737.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We climb to 4600m, where a sudden snow/hail/thunderstorm has us briefly diving for cover.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8565AUEbBFaHd1CaVaTxkFE_xTToMbCNZF8jbyMYMWVbVp6ECk6KLdCoV9NfmzbGNRN6kao_CDKTTBmKyiDpL3bV72GoAt0PkQ6_WYGurwsqqYVgEPZq5fOtL2HC7CkWgzmVnxIO0Emqe/s1600/P1020741.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8565AUEbBFaHd1CaVaTxkFE_xTToMbCNZF8jbyMYMWVbVp6ECk6KLdCoV9NfmzbGNRN6kao_CDKTTBmKyiDpL3bV72GoAt0PkQ6_WYGurwsqqYVgEPZq5fOtL2HC7CkWgzmVnxIO0Emqe/s1600/P1020741.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When it was over, we made our way as fast as we could downhill, through beautiful low clouds.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzalU9TZEjMQQpWCVqK3jCNsLZSQvPYw-CkDYJ0yq18q7XZhlebrby4px92L2zZcFUPhT-ZQ8v7LXrVG8Tu6cgDiC3grfS9f_nlf5BXhS7yQnPQzHD5judTT0hduR_T5zgOZ4y7QTlJ7Nv/s1600/P1020751.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzalU9TZEjMQQpWCVqK3jCNsLZSQvPYw-CkDYJ0yq18q7XZhlebrby4px92L2zZcFUPhT-ZQ8v7LXrVG8Tu6cgDiC3grfS9f_nlf5BXhS7yQnPQzHD5judTT0hduR_T5zgOZ4y7QTlJ7Nv/s1600/P1020751.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We arrive at the Hotel del Desierto exhausted, cold, and hungry. The staff let us bring our food inside to eat in the warmth of the restaurant. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN7s3mW6Ug_QOIDBIEINPNbrkmkvBB_mq6_a7-UuV0kLnDIjGJ-TIKr_wNxUF5PMEgpVVJY6LsyUnN3IRJ30ve8N1VcXJjWTrvsXucNBL7j5OAiZiAUMscqVXGJeNRLBSfG05E5tw1Voeo/s1600/P1020743.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN7s3mW6Ug_QOIDBIEINPNbrkmkvBB_mq6_a7-UuV0kLnDIjGJ-TIKr_wNxUF5PMEgpVVJY6LsyUnN3IRJ30ve8N1VcXJjWTrvsXucNBL7j5OAiZiAUMscqVXGJeNRLBSfG05E5tw1Voeo/s1600/P1020743.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We are tempted to stay the night in the hotel, but eventually muster up the courage to camp. The hotel staff offer us an under-construction building, protected from the wind, and 24 hour use of their fancy bathroom.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6KJCQQ0fJhhi9NQqTAIDEaVK6Yl_a9Z608QDsXN0xrx80a6CDj1JTTjtGPj0aiYGrj4Zl1L-Hqia0kj5EDumV1wO96FEkSJhV52_Ir4ALBDpCaXMaOoaDikB8RPSPDus4J3_AXdKyOUmh/s1600/P1020755.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6KJCQQ0fJhhi9NQqTAIDEaVK6Yl_a9Z608QDsXN0xrx80a6CDj1JTTjtGPj0aiYGrj4Zl1L-Hqia0kj5EDumV1wO96FEkSJhV52_Ir4ALBDpCaXMaOoaDikB8RPSPDus4J3_AXdKyOUmh/s1600/P1020755.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The following morning we woke up to yet more wind, but luckily for us, a tailwind this time...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiufmyGgaoGhsoNS6y0hx2dDnv_EFr34_Dm900rBx-HGmFoeAcv7Q4-txF-4muUQvR5H-BmbKI9EhKUYFyOzr24fqNZSKy4fVBk0So8hD51F78LVJaeVhc6BptrNq6T9lDNupHhhec00FVW/s1600/IMG_2197.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiufmyGgaoGhsoNS6y0hx2dDnv_EFr34_Dm900rBx-HGmFoeAcv7Q4-txF-4muUQvR5H-BmbKI9EhKUYFyOzr24fqNZSKy4fVBk0So8hD51F78LVJaeVhc6BptrNq6T9lDNupHhhec00FVW/s1600/IMG_2197.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yet we spent the better part of the morning pushing our bikes 5km through a seemingly endless field of sand.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzaLysqVt9SJtKfREnwlx9Hhb06nrvoX7D4HmEkNyRLDTFcQ2cuAHclxUkSZi3N9AqLb0Es-5-w-4_c6c0ODD3QW7FKf82G8FlFxwgDeMp_P7bPq6HX9b3vMThx3-RDEsKZe8484fDM7h9/s1600/P1020782.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzaLysqVt9SJtKfREnwlx9Hhb06nrvoX7D4HmEkNyRLDTFcQ2cuAHclxUkSZi3N9AqLb0Es-5-w-4_c6c0ODD3QW7FKf82G8FlFxwgDeMp_P7bPq6HX9b3vMThx3-RDEsKZe8484fDM7h9/s1600/P1020782.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Calamina</i> <i>or serrucho</i> (corrugations) plus sand...supposedly fat bike country nowadays, though we did okay with our 2.0 Marathon Mondial. Just put less pressure in them!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQI_MJUJ47OTADl9locYmTs9RTrA0WEDr0nL6lPc8loGHbznM512z02x1oKmqjGRvy5bDa5wOW0_pfoZpBm_dsFZUF39INStsKYkGYIBN7fC7wh2ts76BJCdM16rssWt_LiTey_gjOVZQl/s1600/P1020769.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQI_MJUJ47OTADl9locYmTs9RTrA0WEDr0nL6lPc8loGHbznM512z02x1oKmqjGRvy5bDa5wOW0_pfoZpBm_dsFZUF39INStsKYkGYIBN7fC7wh2ts76BJCdM16rssWt_LiTey_gjOVZQl/s1600/P1020769.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After the pusher section, we managed to get back on the bikes and kept heading South</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6KJCQQ0fJhhi9NQqTAIDEaVK6Yl_a9Z608QDsXN0xrx80a6CDj1JTTjtGPj0aiYGrj4Zl1L-Hqia0kj5EDumV1wO96FEkSJhV52_Ir4ALBDpCaXMaOoaDikB8RPSPDus4J3_AXdKyOUmh/s1600/P1020755.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjLcedO-Vt8wmAzZEVSh-25DGNuRouXgHTppTHO0Cd1Zp31idHKCJRPG3PHf3SMM2xlXhvMmfJlnH0oipyq6PFweDXOEIAHTs7YyuPS2981LWZN8j5lbImAYpkF1Q3r1sGhalJVoXMH46B/s1600/IMG_2204.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjLcedO-Vt8wmAzZEVSh-25DGNuRouXgHTppTHO0Cd1Zp31idHKCJRPG3PHf3SMM2xlXhvMmfJlnH0oipyq6PFweDXOEIAHTs7YyuPS2981LWZN8j5lbImAYpkF1Q3r1sGhalJVoXMH46B/s1600/IMG_2204.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Around lunchtime the roads improve even more, and we are joined by a couple of curious viscachas who scramble to eat any potential food leftovers...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPpsfUZEZB5Pqy1g16PnMXwhCjKMNpQtzrYr4ZY5LUrAptt1uBUPPxfTWJZGKgT7r8B6t_GNhLLSFAbkMZdIoJzQKfagkOn5H0lAbNyrqtyF0jj78mQXjLa7ONsHwR77C9TS1K6z_zseYB/s1600/IMG_2205.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPpsfUZEZB5Pqy1g16PnMXwhCjKMNpQtzrYr4ZY5LUrAptt1uBUPPxfTWJZGKgT7r8B6t_GNhLLSFAbkMZdIoJzQKfagkOn5H0lAbNyrqtyF0jj78mQXjLa7ONsHwR77C9TS1K6z_zseYB/s1600/IMG_2205.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At 5 pm we reached the famous Árbol de Piedra, and with only a handful of tourists left and the usual strong afternoon winds, we set off to find some shelter for the night</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBOM9F3cMLPYAYzl4y5h5i-PH_5Ri29KXkuXsZdgfQNc-cqALKiOa6tCRab9kCpN1jKbRMvnCxA1_-5k3LaLg6kxAuPZv6EpkWNTvkr8u1kJukO7RyHVKlwJqMQve7uAd_T_gP9ekQrPCc/s1600/P1020785.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBOM9F3cMLPYAYzl4y5h5i-PH_5Ri29KXkuXsZdgfQNc-cqALKiOa6tCRab9kCpN1jKbRMvnCxA1_-5k3LaLg6kxAuPZv6EpkWNTvkr8u1kJukO7RyHVKlwJqMQve7uAd_T_gP9ekQrPCc/s1600/P1020785.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A sandy ground for the night, luckily protected from the crazy afternoon winds</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYGYr4Hq3K9hWIHdgoQBEUl3PPyxkCsfDLRjSXV0BCvT9gQbBcgK23hWakFrORwYY-7hAo0EIx_vyeRNPi-Rr3YRfZEAfutTJRHep-lNTHewidMmGyLKqcyCWSvyGVgnzMjDteKYsdq8DK/s1600/P1020760.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYGYr4Hq3K9hWIHdgoQBEUl3PPyxkCsfDLRjSXV0BCvT9gQbBcgK23hWakFrORwYY-7hAo0EIx_vyeRNPi-Rr3YRfZEAfutTJRHep-lNTHewidMmGyLKqcyCWSvyGVgnzMjDteKYsdq8DK/s1600/P1020760.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The following morning is still chilly by the time we set off, despite the intense sun, so we layered up and kept going to the laguna colorada</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFNiMBgO6pn5leSNqEHxoO04dsZ7byKwSqkWI1x7qNmkwrPGSDxtmNPI61MULINEhBrt3VNYLlV8TrjO59eRblEoqxUfO3ovtJYucCspEMsWLy9JglGoUw3nNbGi-WLNQj8lZX5imclUnv/s1600/P1020775.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFNiMBgO6pn5leSNqEHxoO04dsZ7byKwSqkWI1x7qNmkwrPGSDxtmNPI61MULINEhBrt3VNYLlV8TrjO59eRblEoqxUfO3ovtJYucCspEMsWLy9JglGoUw3nNbGi-WLNQj8lZX5imclUnv/s1600/P1020775.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Navigation was super easy - just follow the jeep tracks, they all go to the same place. When in doubt though, jeep drivers (more common as you head further South) are a good source of information.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFauqUifDmYy5OLV8GUQKGhEUbIMeZRDcCS44L1CkOGqhhZKJItyYwyMlSFKdayGkfM_MuAKUJ8ysu1G9K83i71-E0VRzv80z0SaZMf-ByL1299mPjplw2eWbSkK7YEL6KnKuxoEXUr8we/s1600/P1020845.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFauqUifDmYy5OLV8GUQKGhEUbIMeZRDcCS44L1CkOGqhhZKJItyYwyMlSFKdayGkfM_MuAKUJ8ysu1G9K83i71-E0VRzv80z0SaZMf-ByL1299mPjplw2eWbSkK7YEL6KnKuxoEXUr8we/s1600/P1020845.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After paying the hefty Bs150 per person entrance fee to the Reserva, we went round the laguna colorada, which turns out was in its reddest mode. The photo does not make justice to how surreal it was - blood red with dry salt flats, plus flamingos. Has to be seen. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxZGZhhmM7bYmvFNS2qgRZ7tMbOUDxm6fZh1qmcu_UqRTY9zoiNZc2Nn-Zjk4GPqkVtMd6dvUXgCMZwXvXKhWx0EXNNPOEgawJYhnwu1xnH3LB_R54fJpOIp6DC1_VFFQ7MyZCPKBS0vLT/s1600/P1020849.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxZGZhhmM7bYmvFNS2qgRZ7tMbOUDxm6fZh1qmcu_UqRTY9zoiNZc2Nn-Zjk4GPqkVtMd6dvUXgCMZwXvXKhWx0EXNNPOEgawJYhnwu1xnH3LB_R54fJpOIp6DC1_VFFQ7MyZCPKBS0vLT/s1600/P1020849.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Impressive colours</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOm_osdIrFT2JhCoHGzayhWT9JDkacxvNa7kB9cYCEvvK_GUTox0x4dIXjkUA9YjgEnvIkC1mBk-DdclBePtDAw3tHcvl-fP9A-74yfley1m27n1QC5e7QLyIvfj_wD8HD6YgZ16CPalxT/s1600/IMG_2185.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOm_osdIrFT2JhCoHGzayhWT9JDkacxvNa7kB9cYCEvvK_GUTox0x4dIXjkUA9YjgEnvIkC1mBk-DdclBePtDAw3tHcvl-fP9A-74yfley1m27n1QC5e7QLyIvfj_wD8HD6YgZ16CPalxT/s1600/IMG_2185.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving the laguna on its Southern side, we decided not to detour to our original plan of climbing the Uturuncu volcano - high winds and relatively uncertain weather, plus a big detour on corrugations put us off, till next time. The scenery changed once again, and the afternoon colors were in full bloom...as were the winds.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip5pbl_3BYMOkF9ezQ0oVKh2FaONOc6CKiEoru8rg7BzZYXDdqcDbks_sW-fDmqfCcsLslA3pxo4J9y0vBf9FiJon0bL8SNs4WsQ2sOPHfBbvb9cqA8gx774zwvbRk5FXkQDq0_rHe7qV-/s1600/IMG_2221.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip5pbl_3BYMOkF9ezQ0oVKh2FaONOc6CKiEoru8rg7BzZYXDdqcDbks_sW-fDmqfCcsLslA3pxo4J9y0vBf9FiJon0bL8SNs4WsQ2sOPHfBbvb9cqA8gx774zwvbRk5FXkQDq0_rHe7qV-/s1600/IMG_2221.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A short encounter with four Italians had us briefly worried we had entered a vortex and landed in the 80s. They confirmed that the winds were even worse up high, so our priority, once again, became to find somewhere sheltered enough to spend the night.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi43g6k1IH0siKI8ZcbDTiOUTWeGOxCdqZcsKCw0eVMBgIWkDBW3Nnz6jiTu3iPfeShnqElV5vAJ3uk1u1P4Ictx_jn8yarZRCvXknOUUXTHeOSksx7P-n2jwWAaWv1UlmL8FJ_p09TVRsG/s1600/P1020863.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi43g6k1IH0siKI8ZcbDTiOUTWeGOxCdqZcsKCw0eVMBgIWkDBW3Nnz6jiTu3iPfeShnqElV5vAJ3uk1u1P4Ictx_jn8yarZRCvXknOUUXTHeOSksx7P-n2jwWAaWv1UlmL8FJ_p09TVRsG/s1600/P1020863.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The wind was so strong that even a gentle gradient was impossible to cycle...so we pushed, and pushed... </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZLXViYocY_4eC7-VWM_i9Cuk-JWXKZ1Z6Sb0Ba7q38qIK2jjggklI_l5o-Es-fXVEai-emCTVO7x65QT5LZGBZt-52rMl-2XiFUg0Mb864Q_z6Q69zvzjcvkJDd4tWhWhKMcN7SSj2pv9/s1600/P1020866.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZLXViYocY_4eC7-VWM_i9Cuk-JWXKZ1Z6Sb0Ba7q38qIK2jjggklI_l5o-Es-fXVEai-emCTVO7x65QT5LZGBZt-52rMl-2XiFUg0Mb864Q_z6Q69zvzjcvkJDd4tWhWhKMcN7SSj2pv9/s1600/P1020866.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At 4400 m we are lucky to find some shelter...not the greatest but the only one around. Our mountain tents are heavy and probably overkill for most of our camps, but on this occasion we are grateful to have them</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCKp4wmcbgVDdSLKLBLnnTLdMG5DEA_mO__nkXQGXg-z9_5fOrm1Ji9Im0kc8OoNPpY77bfAkE_C3MIUae6NBuGINmIWVUTQFm6QloR0vTIHq-biB5cZr1_LXW5Nk_Xi6c5r9pbs-AGe1j/s1600/P1020876.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCKp4wmcbgVDdSLKLBLnnTLdMG5DEA_mO__nkXQGXg-z9_5fOrm1Ji9Im0kc8OoNPpY77bfAkE_C3MIUae6NBuGINmIWVUTQFm6QloR0vTIHq-biB5cZr1_LXW5Nk_Xi6c5r9pbs-AGe1j/s1600/P1020876.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At 4 am we start hearing the beeps of passing jeeps rushing up to the Sol de Mañana geyser for the sunrise...definitely not the nicest wake up call. Luckily, we arrive when they´ve all gone and have the place to ourselves. The geyser is certainly impressive, not only because of its size, but because of the noise it makes</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcx1i_c3aimp0DtWfMiddtNVHxMWV-NfXzdQdPvdzy5mu4x7QBgRSBFHvgnOjofqgMdDWwAy_G_b9jRB_Zeo4cFrKJGhWcHdamVsIV0bvDniPaYHin6LRMGPiRaXwpgoLsjkpLDQufK-bo/s1600/IMG_1195.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcx1i_c3aimp0DtWfMiddtNVHxMWV-NfXzdQdPvdzy5mu4x7QBgRSBFHvgnOjofqgMdDWwAy_G_b9jRB_Zeo4cFrKJGhWcHdamVsIV0bvDniPaYHin6LRMGPiRaXwpgoLsjkpLDQufK-bo/s1600/IMG_1195.JPG" height="302" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Descending from the geiser back to the road we noticed that the "Reserva Natural" also serves as a mine - here´s some conflict of interest we thought... (photo taken and edited by <a href="http://coleccionandoatardeceres.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Quique Morales</a>)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguaXNlBUDapcKElCiyZJBlXHpef2BAUL2aqurII00RPkQaN_NiwrrCQ5OeUydBt2P3zOxsgC6K9qEBglq-XR41oi1JFqn7mw93izAhz4cameMqn-7vfKX-DP9eR1S7X7596nfMBo-FL40a/s1600/P1020913.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguaXNlBUDapcKElCiyZJBlXHpef2BAUL2aqurII00RPkQaN_NiwrrCQ5OeUydBt2P3zOxsgC6K9qEBglq-XR41oi1JFqn7mw93izAhz4cameMqn-7vfKX-DP9eR1S7X7596nfMBo-FL40a/s1600/P1020913.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After a climb to 4950 m, and a chilly and windy descent, we arrived in Laguna Chalviri, another obligatory stop for cycle tourists. The thermals (Bs 3) are simply amazing and after many days without a shower a very welcome sight...We had the pool to ourselves as most jeeps arrive in the morning.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGKYWB7hZ87JGXiosNtfwH4paNlFmsm4hOdVW9qTWI-a0L7o8FimED6_Nm_7A75zVzkSW8GgB64tRldoopuFCJWtL44m7aNZFDVN4iPvbDjXEEdHEXscVKuhwUuhvb3sILcIr7y74Pz2we/s1600/P1020923.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGKYWB7hZ87JGXiosNtfwH4paNlFmsm4hOdVW9qTWI-a0L7o8FimED6_Nm_7A75zVzkSW8GgB64tRldoopuFCJWtL44m7aNZFDVN4iPvbDjXEEdHEXscVKuhwUuhvb3sILcIr7y74Pz2we/s1600/P1020923.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We spent the night in the restaurant/refugio next to the thermals, where incredible owners Fructuosa and Eusebio feed us (dinner and breakfast, plus all jeep tourists leftovers for Bs 17 or $2!!!) and kindly let us spend the night indoors. Here we also meet French cyclist Julien and Germans Jasmin and Tim (left to right, Lucy, Tim, Eusebio, Julien, Alberto, Fructuosa, and Quique)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQJXeYae14WTdblX2C3n7zs-FLRM8cObPaSfLfe6z_5bUKNpXmipDGhDrZXwhFHKabOve1TzXzMTnMxhcqo6YQSZ6KaWqyNL2DdOJqQskM0mv-mLw9wTMVgB9FX5EV29d4LpeC6GUxIfNo/s1600/P1020921.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQJXeYae14WTdblX2C3n7zs-FLRM8cObPaSfLfe6z_5bUKNpXmipDGhDrZXwhFHKabOve1TzXzMTnMxhcqo6YQSZ6KaWqyNL2DdOJqQskM0mv-mLw9wTMVgB9FX5EV29d4LpeC6GUxIfNo/s1600/P1020921.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The jeep tourists "enjoying" the thermals in the morning...not to worry if you are a cyclists, as they´re gone by 10 am on their busy schedules.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimxWZxn51WetxGxvj5oWico6Au76FvGKgq4HyVSqom_Gm-KHAngM0ZR7nMGaZ9hcmp62lkMPNKtPIj1IwXzhO-sp96w9NDh47b-hDI05t91VpjP4GUpnf7hmt6F618QwjA7Z9Klt9o_RCM/s1600/IMG_1263+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimxWZxn51WetxGxvj5oWico6Au76FvGKgq4HyVSqom_Gm-KHAngM0ZR7nMGaZ9hcmp62lkMPNKtPIj1IwXzhO-sp96w9NDh47b-hDI05t91VpjP4GUpnf7hmt6F618QwjA7Z9Klt9o_RCM/s1600/IMG_1263+-+Copy.JPG" height="374" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With the Frenchie in tow, we make progress to the last stop of the lagunas route - the lagunas blanca and verde (photo taken and edited by <a href="http://coleccionandoatardeceres.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Quique Morales</a>)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZxftClevnhItGmC3rsJtvDsH-EEyx_ZVDiGTQhdSOYOqq-Ne9VSQ4tdXQfOmzpY7WhjDdo8OQ12MIMS_vKAaPsZeWpiNwcL8cAwBb7vPi8e8DyTBcHybTS8YNlIokQ_bYwI8HKVB59OCR/s1600/IMG_2195.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZxftClevnhItGmC3rsJtvDsH-EEyx_ZVDiGTQhdSOYOqq-Ne9VSQ4tdXQfOmzpY7WhjDdo8OQ12MIMS_vKAaPsZeWpiNwcL8cAwBb7vPi8e8DyTBcHybTS8YNlIokQ_bYwI8HKVB59OCR/s1600/IMG_2195.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another 4700 m pass separates us from the lagunas, and the scenery. This section, unfortunately, is busy with idiotic and suicidal jeep drivers returning to Uyuni thinking they´re riding the Dakar, so must be taken with extreme care.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2zgidYvwkzIlO2ILJENWNSsvCblRhhNAv5uK0LlMd-grdY_itO75h_9tiAkRuGYPKLDTLmzQ6b1HpBXswiJmhWHUpiOmj9WOJsbsdasH1Fc2P6hLuGpxn-pz_D1KA9Tp1syoM_eP6lVh2/s1600/IMG_2237.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2zgidYvwkzIlO2ILJENWNSsvCblRhhNAv5uK0LlMd-grdY_itO75h_9tiAkRuGYPKLDTLmzQ6b1HpBXswiJmhWHUpiOmj9WOJsbsdasH1Fc2P6hLuGpxn-pz_D1KA9Tp1syoM_eP6lVh2/s1600/IMG_2237.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The desierto de Dalí is an strange rock formation on the way to the lagunas verde and blanca</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCYvkLNqDXlcOVNBq8ZKfwp77JsGz9wNAXCwq2UoZff6c6T6B05QZtwjBC_8ksyrBRnW9BbSElIttTjZcJlv5LkTGa12hOEwtPPLc0YNOH8pKO8EYSVZe2GIvJRTtU4z5-jkvquQGGRqxb/s1600/P1020928.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCYvkLNqDXlcOVNBq8ZKfwp77JsGz9wNAXCwq2UoZff6c6T6B05QZtwjBC_8ksyrBRnW9BbSElIttTjZcJlv5LkTGa12hOEwtPPLc0YNOH8pKO8EYSVZe2GIvJRTtU4z5-jkvquQGGRqxb/s1600/P1020928.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">To the West more nice formations accompany us on our climb</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMDz5ewzr5yYxx1qeBe0Abrlb4fw34uWduMVWAJ-AFpcW4ZUb9FE0qbq2Od1MOkNFeTmtWY13_umpK0GMXACend4fu0uKuxAHM4gZDiG1wfwbHIgUpj0amGGWYRfEbbxx1EuqoM_xnF2RT/s1600/P1020937.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMDz5ewzr5yYxx1qeBe0Abrlb4fw34uWduMVWAJ-AFpcW4ZUb9FE0qbq2Od1MOkNFeTmtWY13_umpK0GMXACend4fu0uKuxAHM4gZDiG1wfwbHIgUpj0amGGWYRfEbbxx1EuqoM_xnF2RT/s1600/P1020937.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After topping up, a quick descent follows to the lagunas. The perfectly shaped volcán Licancabur (5920 m) makes an appearance.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIossvc1Z6LwBHL6-Riy7CFqvgmIPjWkMwxpRX7JquYuNN9k9C7tcV6G73XW3nvK0o1G5C1ksiYBfINVX2Su8iXRE_n7aKlNdeYCJEWrKAQScXaY_QpjM9i9R-HfpDVYLEkBx2Siv90oNW/s1600/IMG_2243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIossvc1Z6LwBHL6-Riy7CFqvgmIPjWkMwxpRX7JquYuNN9k9C7tcV6G73XW3nvK0o1G5C1ksiYBfINVX2Su8iXRE_n7aKlNdeYCJEWrKAQScXaY_QpjM9i9R-HfpDVYLEkBx2Siv90oNW/s1600/IMG_2243.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Going round the laguna blanca (which wasn´t blanca at all when we cycle it) we hit the laguna verde...which was a bit more green than expected. Licancabur oversees the view. On the other side of it awaits another world...Chile!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZLfEbLlxXzGEa_peDXvYC0_FmEGusqTmpQxOhOSGll3JBILLtGgym0Aht3ypUi2gq6bz6a_Mz5TwX8A804REtesKf43MxLcWUsIylH__JO-s49O_6762FaFxNKRhXyaSnPuphSTVZxdR3/s1600/P1020983.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZLfEbLlxXzGEa_peDXvYC0_FmEGusqTmpQxOhOSGll3JBILLtGgym0Aht3ypUi2gq6bz6a_Mz5TwX8A804REtesKf43MxLcWUsIylH__JO-s49O_6762FaFxNKRhXyaSnPuphSTVZxdR3/s1600/P1020983.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here is pretty much where our lagunas route finishes. Lucy wished she had a beard to protect her from the elements...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicNTern2A15ylEL-04q-7Ey2JHkTIhkB-xJvCr79J1LGo8TkmmKsJALsA0FBspVYt5Zzl6CvjOJ13skGJ_niUA55yEDW1BZ9HwUeWKxPC-WxtY1Jofqu6XnROmZVhyigo0pVaZel9aeaaz/s1600/P1020995.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicNTern2A15ylEL-04q-7Ey2JHkTIhkB-xJvCr79J1LGo8TkmmKsJALsA0FBspVYt5Zzl6CvjOJ13skGJ_niUA55yEDW1BZ9HwUeWKxPC-WxtY1Jofqu6XnROmZVhyigo0pVaZel9aeaaz/s1600/P1020995.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After a comfy night in the old, abandoned refugio right by the laguna blanca, we wake up to see a partly frozen laguna</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMqu1woUfawP4TJ_AKSXAWwli4virx4gl-Eer_NV1_UzfCsBEB_ZUVYgltWIQTqnH7d4fV1jk_q3zNwNhbK1dmuU3kI_zdZ9a6AFaGMRo07Ob3wh2GCefFAcRjZsoTQGJmfbM0dRGRZIOE/s1600/P1030003.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMqu1woUfawP4TJ_AKSXAWwli4virx4gl-Eer_NV1_UzfCsBEB_ZUVYgltWIQTqnH7d4fV1jk_q3zNwNhbK1dmuU3kI_zdZ9a6AFaGMRo07Ob3wh2GCefFAcRjZsoTQGJmfbM0dRGRZIOE/s1600/P1030003.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Having cleared the Bolivian migración without incident (despite rumors that the officials occasionally try to charge an exit fee), we enjoyed the nice packed dirt road on the Chilean side. Julien (pictured) did all the lagunas route on a 700C bike, with skinny tyres, and a BOB trailer, without pushing much...who neeeds trendy fat tires!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPTBk4jQ-qj0g_Eiw9FhkyfNcVtI4ilijyb5sSBVqcvK5orzoGffd3IthKQBpix3t0O65ktYO2PlFONu1G5hC92IHhDl3HmOJ_psaRnocFPOyb0Kktv7HJbhPP_J7MU5kD_cAUANCV1_oS/s1600/IMG_2255.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPTBk4jQ-qj0g_Eiw9FhkyfNcVtI4ilijyb5sSBVqcvK5orzoGffd3IthKQBpix3t0O65ktYO2PlFONu1G5hC92IHhDl3HmOJ_psaRnocFPOyb0Kktv7HJbhPP_J7MU5kD_cAUANCV1_oS/s1600/IMG_2255.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the main road from Paso Jama we were reunited with pavement and took the silly picture we all take these days...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEaLGBtk-iL64I3bp64hhPKN2N730gAI2dfSjvANXXZ1Tql3b-TZ4TjvQaQXZ9FCGZJtUW4H5i2SezymzVHB3k-z99WQnC5f6rmfA2PP052fSputm3WNWEmt7RDpLlveg4jcKnK4F_QxkG/s1600/P1030004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEaLGBtk-iL64I3bp64hhPKN2N730gAI2dfSjvANXXZ1Tql3b-TZ4TjvQaQXZ9FCGZJtUW4H5i2SezymzVHB3k-z99WQnC5f6rmfA2PP052fSputm3WNWEmt7RDpLlveg4jcKnK4F_QxkG/s1600/P1030004.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And descended to Chile. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNzxw7xM677CHaTHCwejBl4oZvMNlK0cFAxdus_MxBCcAAj2E4mEKoqJ6NHM4rffNZMXiO0RP-xqCJi2qQKrRFjZ9lv7lP1V9x0vzF41g0lzKHrVmuQnlN1fjwLLzDOdQCGhGCohBBhnVg/s1600/P1030011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNzxw7xM677CHaTHCwejBl4oZvMNlK0cFAxdus_MxBCcAAj2E4mEKoqJ6NHM4rffNZMXiO0RP-xqCJi2qQKrRFjZ9lv7lP1V9x0vzF41g0lzKHrVmuQnlN1fjwLLzDOdQCGhGCohBBhnVg/s1600/P1030011.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Once in Chile, we descended quickly on the boring paved road (a straight line for 2000 m of vertical drop). Despite Chile being more developed that other South American countries, it struck us to see these sights. The Chilean side of Licancabur is full of land mines!!!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0H8EYRDCRqqrBhdmpHsEHLH4w6DKtKPiNeXAnL62OUbdr3KpPC2XLzDrcKiEUBLldBfRaXtywuAjR-czIm2TKiUCMkOSRZqts3cVlFPZkKt22XImY8XxT5UZu4hr_zbyPIRa6NghGHif_/s1600/P1030014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0H8EYRDCRqqrBhdmpHsEHLH4w6DKtKPiNeXAnL62OUbdr3KpPC2XLzDrcKiEUBLldBfRaXtywuAjR-czIm2TKiUCMkOSRZqts3cVlFPZkKt22XImY8XxT5UZu4hr_zbyPIRa6NghGHif_/s1600/P1030014.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The oasis of San Pedro de Atacama is the second most visited place in Chile, only after Torres del Paine in Patagonia. We stayed outside of town and enjoyed the chance to eat things like olives and goat cheese. Oh, and 1.5L of decent wines for $2.50. Wine is pretty much the cheapest thing one can find in Chile actually.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEify79s0VEwjFIIVBBSn9jVnN0fGLnFIqJBRLkfqg8Vc_pqGagtEQrGdDoaekDdK6N7YDErO-03p5ZBSwz513fa5RwrbKSm214VuKfaXvkwXsJVjc5Hzl1cDeTnVaZdQfT1BH0fKYqLpzOK/s1600/P1030017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEify79s0VEwjFIIVBBSn9jVnN0fGLnFIqJBRLkfqg8Vc_pqGagtEQrGdDoaekDdK6N7YDErO-03p5ZBSwz513fa5RwrbKSm214VuKfaXvkwXsJVjc5Hzl1cDeTnVaZdQfT1BH0fKYqLpzOK/s1600/P1030017.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">San Pedro is famous for its "cute" adobe houses. It´s got a bit of a hippie-with-a-credit-card vibe. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHg7GjMDy4ntP-oNHS9LfNBQrRB9Hu03ntjXgH5RAzrg-BA9JkDdI8Lol5fu8nLU_Z9sg1LGN8yTrVyUwjzSFTtxTuOcOCOB9R5nIRpm85DibkSmiTGjdDlE0DvhIGhanKCEWYpfA0ANe6/s1600/P1030018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHg7GjMDy4ntP-oNHS9LfNBQrRB9Hu03ntjXgH5RAzrg-BA9JkDdI8Lol5fu8nLU_Z9sg1LGN8yTrVyUwjzSFTtxTuOcOCOB9R5nIRpm85DibkSmiTGjdDlE0DvhIGhanKCEWYpfA0ANe6/s1600/P1030018.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And you can find things like this...a UV traffic light. Only 50 km away from the Bolivian border.</td></tr>
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Route notes and comments:<br />
<br />
We used the <a href="http://www.tour.tk/pdf/cycling-southwest-bolivia.pdf" target="_blank">Tour.tk guide for SouthWest Bolivia</a> which has all the information you need to tackle this route. Note that it hasn´t been updated in recent years, and that, for example, all the villages shown from Uyuni to Villa Alota have now shops and water. The distances remain spot-on, and all the water points on the lagunas route are still current.<br />
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There´s a lot of ranting amongst cycle tourists about jeep drivers and tourists. In our experience, the jeep traffic as of mid to late November 2014 was not bothersome at all, and you´ll only see them at certain times a day. The drivers were always helfpul, and the tourists polite. The only section we really disliked was the one from Chalviri to Lagunas Blanca and Verde, where the jeep drivers seemed to be racing back home to Uyuni, without tourists, and felt dangerous at times. This traffic was concentrated around 7-11am. Jeep tourisms has some advantages though: the industry has allowed some refugios to be built, which can provide water and food when needed. We rode the route carrying 10 days of food from Uyuni (but can be done carrying much less) and you only need to carry two days worth of water at any time, which simplifies things a lot.<br />
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Other route notes from our trip are as follows:<br />
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- Uyuni to Villa Alota: the road is now in great condition, not paved but it felt like it. Really hard-packed dirt and very fast to ride on.<br />
- Villa Alota to Laguna Hedionda: we took a little diversion a few km out of Villa Alota, and joined at Hedionda. There are other routes that avoid Hedionda, but we found Hedionda one of the most scenic parts of the route. Jeep traffic is relatively low here. The Hotel in Hedionda is pricey, but they will fill your water (it´s slightly saline though) and will let you sleep on the restaurant floor for free, if asked - they assured us the provide a charity service for cyclists! <br />
- Hedionda to Lagunas Verde and Blanca: we rode the classic route all the way. The tour.tk guide is all you need. There´s a Bs150 fee payable to enter the reserva at the Laguna Colorada. Unfortunately this fee does not seem to provide anything to the tourist - not even usable toilets that aren´t private, rubbish bins, or indications, so it´s money that goes straight to someone´s pocket or not at all used in the reserva. In Laguna Chalviri you can probably stay for free at one of the two restaurants next to it. The one closest to you as you get there is the one we chose, and was superb in every way. Dinner costs Bs12 (soup and a healthy serving of meat), breakfast Bs5 (pankakes and coffee). We didn´t use any other refugios, so can´t comment on their service, though prices seemed to be at least double than those we payed at Chalviri.<br />
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In Lagunas Blancas and Verde we slept in the old refugio, next to the Blanca, which now appears to be semi-abandoned.<br />
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Eventually, there will be a new Chilean migración opened that will allow you to cross straight into Argentina (via Chile´s Paso Jama) from the Bolivian border, without descending to San Pedro. However, as of today, there´s no alternative but to get your entry stamp in San Pedro.<br />
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For planning purposes here is how our days panned out:<br />
Day 1: Uyuni to Camp by Bridge over Rio Grande (64 km, moving time 4h)<br />
Day 2: Camp by Bridge to Villa Alota (86km, moving time 6h)<br />
Day 3: Villa Alora to unsheltered pampa camp (41km, moving time 5h)<br />
Day 4: Pampa camp to Laguna Hedionda (22km, moving time 2h30)<br />
Day 5: Hedionda to Hotel del Desierto (39km, moving time 5h30)<br />
Day 6: Hotel del Desierto to Arbol de Peidra (30km, moving time 4h)<br />
Day 7: Arbol de Piedra to rock pile camp on climb to Sol de Mañana (36km, moving time 4h30)<br />
Day 8: Rock pile camp to Laguna Chalviri (40km, moving time 4h30)<br />
Day 9: Chalviri to Laguna Blanca (44km, moving time 5h)<br />
Day 10: Laguna Blanca to San Pedro de Atacama (58km, moving time 3h30)Albertohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15789158563391048740noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-42881138982914152142014-11-30T00:26:00.000+00:002014-11-30T00:44:39.524+00:00Pisiga to Uyuni: sinking and surfacing in the salaresBack in Bolivia after our brief stint in Chile, we headed for one of the most iconic segments of any cycle tour in South America, the chance to cycle across Bolivia's salares (salt flats). We would first take on the smaller and less touristy Salar de Coipasa, and then move on to the big kahuna, the largest salt flat in the world, the Salar de Uyuni. Apart from arriving in Ushuaia, it is probably the single most common place for cycle tourists in South America to visit, and with good reason. Riding a bike across the salares allows you to experience them in full, delivering an experience that is unmatched by any other method of transportation -- plus, it makes for some pretty cool photos.<br />
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Apart from contemplating the vastness of the universe, seasoning your food with the ground you are standing on, and wondering whether you´re the only one who finds the salt a little bit monotonous, there are two other rites of passage that every salar cyclist must undertake: taking perspective pictures and riding in your birthday suit. Readers can rest assured that photographic evidence of the latter will not be shared (unless, of course, offered a big chunk of money...)!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhup0foL2HIRwB6PbNocX8ar0EDB5IHwojHsZs41EzlBV5_HaFKbMm-pXm8-xR0Ud85y0Yz1NxnbyltjfXGFYjG8UPlaXQ79BIT29z8oihr7eryxiA02W2txAMKuQIThBeAaopW-tzJQCGf/s1600/P1020240.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhup0foL2HIRwB6PbNocX8ar0EDB5IHwojHsZs41EzlBV5_HaFKbMm-pXm8-xR0Ud85y0Yz1NxnbyltjfXGFYjG8UPlaXQ79BIT29z8oihr7eryxiA02W2txAMKuQIThBeAaopW-tzJQCGf/s1600/P1020240.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our first attempt on the Salar de Coipasa is a bit of a fail, as we attempt to shortcut directly onto the salar from Pisiga instead of going via the town of Coipasa. The salar in this area turns out to be full of unrideable salt-mud. We push for a few hours anyway, expecting it to get better if we just push a little bit further. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Finally, after half a day of pushing, we decide to turn around and head back to shore. On our way back we hit the worst surface yet, pushing our bikes through (bike-destroying) salty water and occasionally sinking in a bit too deep. The worst nightmare a cyclist can ever have in Bolivia.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinOuVopO6y6o3u0UDtr4YB4oZNNR2xyYlZ5dnmgmvhSGsteZd1IeITdzPGrG8ppj-5VxtBR3PZVS56u7BOleAYK6wE7nI-qR6xxpQ4h36qNQKvDbBkAL4W5saLLNswFZt4q6eAYQFm5DOb/s1600/P1020263.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinOuVopO6y6o3u0UDtr4YB4oZNNR2xyYlZ5dnmgmvhSGsteZd1IeITdzPGrG8ppj-5VxtBR3PZVS56u7BOleAYK6wE7nI-qR6xxpQ4h36qNQKvDbBkAL4W5saLLNswFZt4q6eAYQFm5DOb/s1600/P1020263.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But then we miraculously find the good stuff - flat, smooth, hard salt. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpwrGAe82ZFpekq3x4yqO2a5MR0Qk3HbKsoq0uVeQplMj6GioNZ3cj-1lbKCYZUovC-0-z5cbssxaO2p1u8GfkKRKufyVzTnivq4kOkrsieiYANvGMq-O09lnc6ndjF-3Ag8vl4alNnvlc/s1600/P1020268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpwrGAe82ZFpekq3x4yqO2a5MR0Qk3HbKsoq0uVeQplMj6GioNZ3cj-1lbKCYZUovC-0-z5cbssxaO2p1u8GfkKRKufyVzTnivq4kOkrsieiYANvGMq-O09lnc6ndjF-3Ag8vl4alNnvlc/s1600/P1020268.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So <i>this</i> is why everyone rides the salares! Left side is Lucy, then <a href="http://coleccionandoatardeceres.blogspot.com/">Alicia and Quique</a></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbVWALJIgaHPb6bZuhGXqeY4to8nQCMbNVV91Uz_Jf0w1QptJCOFfefOdPUyr9mA54ZY_uw7Q3Kscl85GUu491vSBTwK_UQ63TLfZhDOXzwDlJMNR0bh_HhqrAsg-igwWyizXyag1pj-It/s1600/IMG_2015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbVWALJIgaHPb6bZuhGXqeY4to8nQCMbNVV91Uz_Jf0w1QptJCOFfefOdPUyr9mA54ZY_uw7Q3Kscl85GUu491vSBTwK_UQ63TLfZhDOXzwDlJMNR0bh_HhqrAsg-igwWyizXyag1pj-It/s1600/IMG_2015.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our good luck continues as we spot a lonely house on the edge of the salar. The young family living there (the father works on the salar) says we can sleep in their small huts made of salt.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggSvnCP7Yr2H1SnAThK1Y9yTmSthcJOS2WDRPtCNwO5GeZ9Xm_w9LnYdjHyLWRfim4ca2BsyUQFJo4ggfk04A-DZQXPLj7QtM9Tq34TUmNw079gmUnfbD6qphGRaX0Z2rt0QyE_TlnDKcI/s1600/P1020297.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggSvnCP7Yr2H1SnAThK1Y9yTmSthcJOS2WDRPtCNwO5GeZ9Xm_w9LnYdjHyLWRfim4ca2BsyUQFJo4ggfk04A-DZQXPLj7QtM9Tq34TUmNw079gmUnfbD6qphGRaX0Z2rt0QyE_TlnDKcI/s1600/P1020297.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tourists pay good money to sleep in salt hotels!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpIfglmOlNoj3F4pY06fnvRTo7vIq0FH4Cv5cCg-RfwToUX6qP_8VzNWdQsWBBdCW4-JvRRkgL8_8sWaucUPk-UfXuUeRJfwh3GNj6aU5gQllP9AbtIWp13px7CqhxgXZN5Njw3MGgQPio/s1600/IMG_2014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpIfglmOlNoj3F4pY06fnvRTo7vIq0FH4Cv5cCg-RfwToUX6qP_8VzNWdQsWBBdCW4-JvRRkgL8_8sWaucUPk-UfXuUeRJfwh3GNj6aU5gQllP9AbtIWp13px7CqhxgXZN5Njw3MGgQPio/s1600/IMG_2014.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The family even give us some water to give the bikes a good washing.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikoaVOLTPORQSkSxEYo5SbdWocOsCQMHhcIhixfppABkW23FGs_3AliZduaN3N6Dm61x09qYGJFRtsdNAZJIj1xVodvqh8DdGg_Ogt7oOP5Ispe5OrqEsb0cgBM89t6Ao0hyrgq09nUA1Y/s1600/IMG_2022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikoaVOLTPORQSkSxEYo5SbdWocOsCQMHhcIhixfppABkW23FGs_3AliZduaN3N6Dm61x09qYGJFRtsdNAZJIj1xVodvqh8DdGg_Ogt7oOP5Ispe5OrqEsb0cgBM89t6Ao0hyrgq09nUA1Y/s1600/IMG_2022.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The family helps direct us to the road through the salar, and we enjoy a great morning of salt-flat riding.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhG-T9Mt9dBQOXtvW7TQLmJF7OJ9AMKSTs6xNIyjDHRVqTCQ5H0f55YXAblpNFjDPqInUWntOF0tTWMnU9Ri_7BoIh7Y0i6eyFeAPTZfN1ux6y2NB0HmboDwkomJVpqcZLgp02GibLGPrF/s1600/IMG_2030.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhG-T9Mt9dBQOXtvW7TQLmJF7OJ9AMKSTs6xNIyjDHRVqTCQ5H0f55YXAblpNFjDPqInUWntOF0tTWMnU9Ri_7BoIh7Y0i6eyFeAPTZfN1ux6y2NB0HmboDwkomJVpqcZLgp02GibLGPrF/s1600/IMG_2030.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We try another ´shortcut´on the way out of the Salar de Coipasa, heading for the town of Llica. Unfortunately it results in pushing our bikes for 11km through deep sand in stifling heat. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It´s exhausting.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu96OYazhE3EZ7uUF0t2MeBw4faUHkEVWpam8BhyphenhyphenOcvS9_9Ohbo2RwP_WcyjPqzNgPa-VyEKRwzxLSWIyH0oZ7SoSfy26DdcoWd43k7R_TS_IyBrV5zp0L5E9SHuViLM-ZQ8Y0oJISxQfD/s1600/P1020182.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu96OYazhE3EZ7uUF0t2MeBw4faUHkEVWpam8BhyphenhyphenOcvS9_9Ohbo2RwP_WcyjPqzNgPa-VyEKRwzxLSWIyH0oZ7SoSfy26DdcoWd43k7R_TS_IyBrV5zp0L5E9SHuViLM-ZQ8Y0oJISxQfD/s1600/P1020182.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and our skin suffers the effects of altiplano riding </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTsPCU8GCesaye8512_xEB_swgUJYFQgNpkmIaN_ZQHWKDNCjO0R3oM3zboNM_KghZYrvCXnPELlw3Y0ATek_woahEViSfNk3Rlh7_CxRTpMk9tODw13hUItKWZQzTwQ48x2EWILnlecd3/s1600/P1020350.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTsPCU8GCesaye8512_xEB_swgUJYFQgNpkmIaN_ZQHWKDNCjO0R3oM3zboNM_KghZYrvCXnPELlw3Y0ATek_woahEViSfNk3Rlh7_CxRTpMk9tODw13hUItKWZQzTwQ48x2EWILnlecd3/s1600/P1020350.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It takes all day, but eventually we get to Llica, where we down a liter of cold Coke each and sit in the shade for about three hours. We then set off early the following morning on to famous Salar de Uyuni, where, surprisingly, we found some signs...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVGxo3YnXfhYWLoMlo3FuJeu5tSSz7acfd-vRTA0YQzpkhDEVyZVFMtEq3PBQGofLaqbPYRFankStACCa0_wDbELtHQE1owtxxdg3LePV_UvBSEdnEh9P4HIeobwhPvZArXq6Sa7uqdnLw/s1600/P1020361.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVGxo3YnXfhYWLoMlo3FuJeu5tSSz7acfd-vRTA0YQzpkhDEVyZVFMtEq3PBQGofLaqbPYRFankStACCa0_wDbELtHQE1owtxxdg3LePV_UvBSEdnEh9P4HIeobwhPvZArXq6Sa7uqdnLw/s1600/P1020361.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Having thoroughly learned our lesson on Coipasa, we stick to the roads this time......getting into the routine of riding on salt, for many many km. It´s actually very grippy, even though our minds keep thinking it´s snow and slippery</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBMxRmQG58MxEGDU7kZjHWMS0JbYLShe_D25lL7qDCcIXRYB9rxGjz7MW0_vT4_xDkKd9UpMxpqYBZg2F-nUyyhl1KqTKQjZ0a91CgfV8OBrLVpcpgdpvRccamQHy6onNngtGOGXYwlUCs/s1600/IMG_2045.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBMxRmQG58MxEGDU7kZjHWMS0JbYLShe_D25lL7qDCcIXRYB9rxGjz7MW0_vT4_xDkKd9UpMxpqYBZg2F-nUyyhl1KqTKQjZ0a91CgfV8OBrLVpcpgdpvRccamQHy6onNngtGOGXYwlUCs/s1600/IMG_2045.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When the riding becomes a bit too monotonous, we take breaks in the baking sun...</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCRmHvnJnqaZPJC4gDDeMotmAq7q0fptOU3IEECiPlQQNYDlbmGm3lx3IFaQJRpA1Vn5vyEDOyr6XNS0ERHS2kFJ7c16-sAVNeN2ITk2-rQtEnV-pNhsjy7EhEb6FFqNumEnC-tHbQjmPX/s1600/P1020465.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCRmHvnJnqaZPJC4gDDeMotmAq7q0fptOU3IEECiPlQQNYDlbmGm3lx3IFaQJRpA1Vn5vyEDOyr6XNS0ERHS2kFJ7c16-sAVNeN2ITk2-rQtEnV-pNhsjy7EhEb6FFqNumEnC-tHbQjmPX/s1600/P1020465.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">...or play with the cameras and perspectives. The unchanging white scenery occasionally gives us the feeling that we're running on a hamster wheel...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixPJ3E-XFPfuAifwTNGDjgi93T7dBOULONNq_IoYOhHC2C_7UlZm-eMOHDtRy_rjjhKfzub_wp5UNKEiibaaWhhmS9oj5p_gyzh8Mk8mJlcEfq0f95aRYAsBopg7_EpUJKoPHp0zU-xJuy/s1600/P1020500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixPJ3E-XFPfuAifwTNGDjgi93T7dBOULONNq_IoYOhHC2C_7UlZm-eMOHDtRy_rjjhKfzub_wp5UNKEiibaaWhhmS9oj5p_gyzh8Mk8mJlcEfq0f95aRYAsBopg7_EpUJKoPHp0zU-xJuy/s1600/P1020500.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Within striking distance of Isla Incahuasi (which will allow us to fill up on much-needed water) we decide to camp for the night on the salt instead. It turns out to be a great decision, certainly one of the most special camps of the trip</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpfSolxg8jv6PFs5uAad9nIovu761KvRDBW6pl2UXAgm-BHALqfP0BuahF7K1KF-S4MFz2XYe2i1TMScIQw9Mq8QSEGUzmVPXx7PzovseMOYr4QnMh0LBtCldyAIN6LnJ3f0fgcpbJtRZZ/s1600/IMG_2120.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpfSolxg8jv6PFs5uAad9nIovu761KvRDBW6pl2UXAgm-BHALqfP0BuahF7K1KF-S4MFz2XYe2i1TMScIQw9Mq8QSEGUzmVPXx7PzovseMOYr4QnMh0LBtCldyAIN6LnJ3f0fgcpbJtRZZ/s1600/IMG_2120.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After a visit to Isla Incahuasi for water the next morning, we continued on in the direction of Uyuni</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzwDvgGH9IejQr6GcjoFEt7Xk7TYgaXXSutnJgiRIquXW4UbREvMoeJYKef0N3Us4SMJ5FkYT7tivHTylVVsNlFmKkXNZBjjNJ_zNn3ZbltGarvmpNsHgOMJAYt1qZsDz9JtYsE7AJ7pSZ/s1600/IMG_2098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzwDvgGH9IejQr6GcjoFEt7Xk7TYgaXXSutnJgiRIquXW4UbREvMoeJYKef0N3Us4SMJ5FkYT7tivHTylVVsNlFmKkXNZBjjNJ_zNn3ZbltGarvmpNsHgOMJAYt1qZsDz9JtYsE7AJ7pSZ/s1600/IMG_2098.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">That day it was surprisingly hot on the salar, and shade was hard to come by...</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgowmlHduPbINQJ6H-xxG-9t2V9tB_JPZGXeGt1CgnRlutxSk0iwFxiO1YkjqsyyFWNSTl1Y5I3Lo2q4ixNUdcRtHvatDL3r7s2iOY_zY1rtGG1TFCQ2aBSDTSP7XdkEj0djGW9eO-qM_v4/s1600/P1020492.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgowmlHduPbINQJ6H-xxG-9t2V9tB_JPZGXeGt1CgnRlutxSk0iwFxiO1YkjqsyyFWNSTl1Y5I3Lo2q4ixNUdcRtHvatDL3r7s2iOY_zY1rtGG1TFCQ2aBSDTSP7XdkEj0djGW9eO-qM_v4/s1600/P1020492.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">And so those of us with a more delicate skin have to apply severe measures. Sun reflection is no joke in the salar!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibp5LlLY4lmWCQPJn4ZimF4CqCVBw_9op85UkBoIS2DxV4H7evp_NUlfF-jyZfIDAyjsg3W3jFMzjH6zXGnWoKGjlfCIOOhNJiLsvR400qQ2pLAd0CEhhDfl1coBKCLNhOHHhNYb03Alvc/s1600/P1020469.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibp5LlLY4lmWCQPJn4ZimF4CqCVBw_9op85UkBoIS2DxV4H7evp_NUlfF-jyZfIDAyjsg3W3jFMzjH6zXGnWoKGjlfCIOOhNJiLsvR400qQ2pLAd0CEhhDfl1coBKCLNhOHHhNYb03Alvc/s1600/P1020469.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We closed our eyes and wished for a swimming pool, but it didn't appear...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUcTCqvQRP1FMgx76mARew9QwVFEqjgnm8QG4Agmzr9HpbbPKDVCc-rewDdCCw-ApAy3oT1rWDuPV9JX-n4F1_Jar-kHZHLKkMxQVO4pS3yd_7nopUChgBqmVt3cbcfBwNooDxivMK9f6n/s1600/P1020488.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUcTCqvQRP1FMgx76mARew9QwVFEqjgnm8QG4Agmzr9HpbbPKDVCc-rewDdCCw-ApAy3oT1rWDuPV9JX-n4F1_Jar-kHZHLKkMxQVO4pS3yd_7nopUChgBqmVt3cbcfBwNooDxivMK9f6n/s1600/P1020488.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...instead we found this sulfur-smelly holes all over the road<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8WwlzfUjONYFePnL68DFtaWRiywb4qdXSoJTXdVbzadMxNEJpDJFnkpPkOgut7Pf8GdaU_lthdKafwfa0CEal0gK5CEAo8aDKBiDU4rLSJbwxPw-9yW63j0x-lpGaUJjgRfy05-H0lOTr/s1600/P1020397.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8WwlzfUjONYFePnL68DFtaWRiywb4qdXSoJTXdVbzadMxNEJpDJFnkpPkOgut7Pf8GdaU_lthdKafwfa0CEal0gK5CEAo8aDKBiDU4rLSJbwxPw-9yW63j0x-lpGaUJjgRfy05-H0lOTr/s1600/P1020397.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We eventually grew tired of the perspective pictures...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga4MRLfh0gzUnMIY97KY1K8WyWxOKE65-h2b6Oc3ENfdLA-ttB5oAK6cdNmsZQYVBoV4yIgZOhepp2BU9-cHMtmYHlfAtLdHIrTytrQ2R1QL1Sz04rsDew9A6mrp0QMjzB1NiKRGEBgcrJ/s1600/P1020489.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga4MRLfh0gzUnMIY97KY1K8WyWxOKE65-h2b6Oc3ENfdLA-ttB5oAK6cdNmsZQYVBoV4yIgZOhepp2BU9-cHMtmYHlfAtLdHIrTytrQ2R1QL1Sz04rsDew9A6mrp0QMjzB1NiKRGEBgcrJ/s1600/P1020489.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...so decided to find the only shelted spot in the whole salar: Quique and Alicia´s tarp!</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSZawFJTHf3ZjeNL3O8Dp4M6mArjaXOFpLtsdvMw5IeQ5WFbQeC24e0rpmURxizKrfo-AAmOicBY9mcRrCU9I548QigRqkSx3DMv-5DfoLKzi9WldAikq0ZWnkraIsUMFl9Ych2uZsWEq2/s1600/P1020507.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSZawFJTHf3ZjeNL3O8Dp4M6mArjaXOFpLtsdvMw5IeQ5WFbQeC24e0rpmURxizKrfo-AAmOicBY9mcRrCU9I548QigRqkSx3DMv-5DfoLKzi9WldAikq0ZWnkraIsUMFl9Ych2uZsWEq2/s1600/P1020507.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Rather than pressing on to Uyuni, we opted for another night on the magical salar - which meant again using the rock we had brought from Llica to hammer the tent stakes in to the salt. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5q_2dLVm83iKlBdJDDCdgkwYXEResnFBj9bgAidYf7yPSWCftRabe_pdMeA2CcmvwxM4eikyWu6S5JJnhLJiiv3qO5UThHTp_2NlwCF0EDbMAARBV8PXh12ePvuw7XnTgXO3FerTLnnpS/s1600/P1020503.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5q_2dLVm83iKlBdJDDCdgkwYXEResnFBj9bgAidYf7yPSWCftRabe_pdMeA2CcmvwxM4eikyWu6S5JJnhLJiiv3qO5UThHTp_2NlwCF0EDbMAARBV8PXh12ePvuw7XnTgXO3FerTLnnpS/s1600/P1020503.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our two little tents vs. the vastness of the salar at sunset</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI1oEcoPLdMyCk7twRXyQBSJT_QpfKXqRJOPit5Cm1o-4FDP-cLXsIvBhV2X_LEGoZtNXlX2APh9sDJnVEUaoWI6VpXNkmQxhdHs0ONdnwE_EBZWTsMzXKjErtnHEI4OjeMHirLG3yoI42/s1600/P1020374.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI1oEcoPLdMyCk7twRXyQBSJT_QpfKXqRJOPit5Cm1o-4FDP-cLXsIvBhV2X_LEGoZtNXlX2APh9sDJnVEUaoWI6VpXNkmQxhdHs0ONdnwE_EBZWTsMzXKjErtnHEI4OjeMHirLG3yoI42/s1600/P1020374.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The following morning, after a quick route check, we set off for the road to Uyuni (the town) and said our goodbyes to the salar</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 13px;">.</span><span style="font-size: small;">..and just like that, we were in Gringoville, otherwise known as Uyuni! Despite being utterly uninteresting it was a fine place to spend a few days relaxing after having had neither days off nor showers since La Paz. Then it was time to plan our next adventure and our exit after an all-too-short stay in Bolivia. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;">Route notes:</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">- Pisiga to Llica: We recommend taking the roads to Coipasa to enter the salar and taking the road to Tres Cruces in order to leave it, which we clearly didn't do ourselves!</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">- Llica to Uyuni: We used the excellent <a href="http://www.tour.tk/tour-guides-south-west-bolivia.htm">Tour.TK guide to cycling Southwest Bolivia</a> which has all relevant information. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;">- In Uyuni we stayed at Hotel Avenida for Bs 80 for a double with shared bathroom. There may possibly be cheaper options outside of the center, but we found this to be reasonable considering it´s Uyuni and the prices are much higher than anywhere else on the altiplano (including La Paz)</span></div>
<br />Albertohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15789158563391048740noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9114847493985579867.post-88409601533015971642014-11-12T21:11:00.000+00:002014-11-12T21:11:17.152+00:00La Paz to Pisiga via Sajama and Northern Chile: the route of the volcanos<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After a restful week off in La Paz, we set off to visit Bolivia´s highest mountain (actually a volcano, Sajama, at 6542 m) before crossing the western border into Chile, for a visit to some of Chile´s most remote national parks. After all the worry about reaching Bolivia in the dry season, we were treated to warm, stable weather which allowed us to take in the scenery all around. That is, when we were able to look up from the horribly sandy and washboard road conditions. Riding in the Bolivian (and Chilean) altiplano was totally different to what had come before it -- and totally spectacular. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzPcZE0pabcTA9ESel7O_2TpKCAw9DyKLy5MOgsfT4zZMzIkp_ylC1dJx48dsE1NG1HAaouVFcqxtyGGnGiyuDzJlKoBoMxXwPVcYstrJqymKUfNupIqMuoAnnWlL8yM5AnR03sRyzyRef/s1600/P1010898.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzPcZE0pabcTA9ESel7O_2TpKCAw9DyKLy5MOgsfT4zZMzIkp_ylC1dJx48dsE1NG1HAaouVFcqxtyGGnGiyuDzJlKoBoMxXwPVcYstrJqymKUfNupIqMuoAnnWlL8yM5AnR03sRyzyRef/s1600/P1010898.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our brief stint on the main road north of La Paz had taught us that highway riding in Bolivia is not for us. So we took a bus to Patacamayo, about two hours by car south of La Paz, where our route would turn off of Bolivia´s main highway and onto a road mainly used by trucks headed for the port in Arica, Chile. We left La Paz with Michael, from the US, and rode with him for the first few days.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-YvAubP5WdxLvFfO9WZR9MnmLhpjw4z3KK8P0LK1iaXgjdSsSorQCSh9exKEdRAldrP5CiT3jzX9EIFQyw6Xj2muth6Lu_Bg-dh8fz7PpNq46lzsGUGt70Su6N0sh665tamuZ01g-13zT/s1600/P1010917.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-YvAubP5WdxLvFfO9WZR9MnmLhpjw4z3KK8P0LK1iaXgjdSsSorQCSh9exKEdRAldrP5CiT3jzX9EIFQyw6Xj2muth6Lu_Bg-dh8fz7PpNq46lzsGUGt70Su6N0sh665tamuZ01g-13zT/s1600/P1010917.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The road was mainly quiet, apart from a few peak truck times everyday, and we were treated to views of the volcano Sajama, Bolivia´s highest peak, almost all the way. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlVvvUIXnRRts93oGufTo6-WdVfna5sAHJpoafmIatSJqK2m0ZDPCSeEavWrfsZAM2RclG38C0558uN5JU1gNvqzNbMmBt0wD0GDxy0pQAP_wExS6iBXzrFyqMwsURRZ7Qr-amPAh5c-FS/s1600/P1010918.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlVvvUIXnRRts93oGufTo6-WdVfna5sAHJpoafmIatSJqK2m0ZDPCSeEavWrfsZAM2RclG38C0558uN5JU1gNvqzNbMmBt0wD0GDxy0pQAP_wExS6iBXzrFyqMwsURRZ7Qr-amPAh5c-FS/s1600/P1010918.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The road took us past many chulpas, or precolombian burial structures -- this one still had bones inside!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvuGQRFN5hq5RqVrHAeEYhfNt83ge3-k2KKq_0hWhMnGmxIdNzTO4fsFdH3D5ImVIZkFKltY6N5ClSZ1dbko57a_Dfza1IKlyFqMDG60p74V6rrPatTMCVxzYv48BikKwg8kgmsyMlBgt9/s1600/P1010922.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvuGQRFN5hq5RqVrHAeEYhfNt83ge3-k2KKq_0hWhMnGmxIdNzTO4fsFdH3D5ImVIZkFKltY6N5ClSZ1dbko57a_Dfza1IKlyFqMDG60p74V6rrPatTMCVxzYv48BikKwg8kgmsyMlBgt9/s1600/P1010922.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We pedalled on, over the river Desaguadero...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidOldUwW6S0oxn5P45GHmN0rSU74lZDNRdTWVC93azu9rGBgdlYEcHixw9VqnBf9XcacK_9IsGDQbdsCigKlryJlVTXAXW8x1hA95-H9Ka1O95KO3w7TvSkvHGnYX8zvNEbeyOd_XzGnmS/s1600/P1010931.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidOldUwW6S0oxn5P45GHmN0rSU74lZDNRdTWVC93azu9rGBgdlYEcHixw9VqnBf9XcacK_9IsGDQbdsCigKlryJlVTXAXW8x1hA95-H9Ka1O95KO3w7TvSkvHGnYX8zvNEbeyOd_XzGnmS/s1600/P1010931.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and at camp o´clock diverted onto a footpath to find the first of many perfectly flat camping spots.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgceaPUQZYF3YmzYgZi-poPCqFUM3K2MRwSHgbZWCiP92csAVam6Q2GuPGF8dTD75i5oE4UXLlIbfpQyPpp_Mh0bLKk1OZPeZ6yWv59GtVlaRFqnG_e-nf4BxavQ3-W_l18Qe8WXLg8fVso/s1600/IMG_1889.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgceaPUQZYF3YmzYgZi-poPCqFUM3K2MRwSHgbZWCiP92csAVam6Q2GuPGF8dTD75i5oE4UXLlIbfpQyPpp_Mh0bLKk1OZPeZ6yWv59GtVlaRFqnG_e-nf4BxavQ3-W_l18Qe8WXLg8fVso/s1600/IMG_1889.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Although the main road is not busy by any stretch of the imagination, we grew tired of checking our rear-view mirror for trucks, so said goodbye to Michael as we diverted off of the main road onto a dirt (read: sand) road that would take us around the perimeter of Sajama.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6ynKNRFpbhLlNuRUwnd5hNe1foYGMEGGL4ZgWHvS08cABYSiK4UJ4zVvHghMOm6dcQe3JDDaB-xmK50oukzY7AlQuOq1mDse83NSNgHyNYMYqaHFaGvQ8QvthZdxz_YTDcCc7wL0Gd08u/s1600/P1010965.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6ynKNRFpbhLlNuRUwnd5hNe1foYGMEGGL4ZgWHvS08cABYSiK4UJ4zVvHghMOm6dcQe3JDDaB-xmK50oukzY7AlQuOq1mDse83NSNgHyNYMYqaHFaGvQ8QvthZdxz_YTDcCc7wL0Gd08u/s1600/P1010965.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The following morning, we pass the village of Tomarapi</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4qoYmYtaU4bcJI21T1qtx5CR3JsOQAIJaKOkc4R3EhGh3EJhYIznp6bV8lktW1wHlB0wn8Prbt81c8kuikZX7S2VLNn-RhQ9xJH2AnrjKa1Ah6nwHnOY0G5TbeJBYou-UNGpqDZ2CyCDS/s1600/IMG_1866.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4qoYmYtaU4bcJI21T1qtx5CR3JsOQAIJaKOkc4R3EhGh3EJhYIznp6bV8lktW1wHlB0wn8Prbt81c8kuikZX7S2VLNn-RhQ9xJH2AnrjKa1Ah6nwHnOY0G5TbeJBYou-UNGpqDZ2CyCDS/s1600/IMG_1866.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We quickly learned that desert riding means taking advantage of every opportunity to fill up with water. This well in the tiny village of Osjani did the trick.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghXFlleYjfT6dzg-qtMOI-dwUsoj6_TSAcL-gQQcgg4yCbYtLackixeQxHqPLE4alvmrqbcXJNyPctFlto1Za9jLndzWxDQvHbdzcTRz01e241VQv9rR2MkTyIT0oHmviLhFQfB1_-8Hdd/s1600/P1010946.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghXFlleYjfT6dzg-qtMOI-dwUsoj6_TSAcL-gQQcgg4yCbYtLackixeQxHqPLE4alvmrqbcXJNyPctFlto1Za9jLndzWxDQvHbdzcTRz01e241VQv9rR2MkTyIT0oHmviLhFQfB1_-8Hdd/s1600/P1010946.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We set up camp for the night in the wide open altiplano, hoping the slightly-higher-than-average bushes will provide some sort of wind shelter.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8wizNAcUIRzEuiV7dC3tk6yHWHyfy5FRmmZhvDnQBXecjS7XdjJSdq8lNt80MKQu_bBAp-KffzCzebrD-bqjQyXfYuSrSvofMaAtNdyWCLRHeiy-Vl-YnrN_-u-6A0Scmwf2RA5yP3lJ0/s1600/P1010968.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8wizNAcUIRzEuiV7dC3tk6yHWHyfy5FRmmZhvDnQBXecjS7XdjJSdq8lNt80MKQu_bBAp-KffzCzebrD-bqjQyXfYuSrSvofMaAtNdyWCLRHeiy-Vl-YnrN_-u-6A0Scmwf2RA5yP3lJ0/s1600/P1010968.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">We pass through the village of Tomarapi (house to a very fancy hotel, at Bs 550 a night) the next day, and eat lunch in the shelter of the beautiful church.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7H2Ce55ZtxM0oYOWUvn2XEfWEVaNf5adN12mPJYPi3muebXbKEDZLX4ctEQADD5m93O5mU1Mj73YJoWGd5jorG5AKzDP-eA4JX02iQi9XjqVz6HBklt0BXGD9rOrijM6d4P0ld1OEJTNy/s1600/IMG_1903.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7H2Ce55ZtxM0oYOWUvn2XEfWEVaNf5adN12mPJYPi3muebXbKEDZLX4ctEQADD5m93O5mU1Mj73YJoWGd5jorG5AKzDP-eA4JX02iQi9XjqVz6HBklt0BXGD9rOrijM6d4P0ld1OEJTNy/s1600/IMG_1903.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An afternoon wind requires we find a sheltered spot, which we finally do in the <i>pampa </i>next to a slightly thermal river. As ever, Sajama looms in the background.</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzBvBnaT7VwN8YSPc-hn8LdlLSe0WLrSY3z61TevTQBAY07z0Rzj6-R9vsl6BpR4d5ewHbrjxNrucRIyVZDj5dIuKshR8l1YGq3GNpwdz3obYA2OB26bLfsbnfakfACjWmjVjCekb7j-HT/s1600/P1010991.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzBvBnaT7VwN8YSPc-hn8LdlLSe0WLrSY3z61TevTQBAY07z0Rzj6-R9vsl6BpR4d5ewHbrjxNrucRIyVZDj5dIuKshR8l1YGq3GNpwdz3obYA2OB26bLfsbnfakfACjWmjVjCekb7j-HT/s1600/P1010991.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The road is sandy, but all rideable...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJFko4WokATqdTNp0-A-v60X9-y0jhdkEhn0vHWK6rvEebZ9IwiLn6-bLJdY_jQrQzvkYto1k4AWqOZakSwbr0sTW2TVMAmAjk2GuuU_IszPYK_HniOddx6VmM0qqDpF9RnaODWe1GP2z7/s1600/P1020008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJFko4WokATqdTNp0-A-v60X9-y0jhdkEhn0vHWK6rvEebZ9IwiLn6-bLJdY_jQrQzvkYto1k4AWqOZakSwbr0sTW2TVMAmAjk2GuuU_IszPYK_HniOddx6VmM0qqDpF9RnaODWe1GP2z7/s1600/P1020008.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and soon enough we are dumped back onto to main highway, just before the border town of Tambo Quemado.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyeIjo88ezDqP7xwy-npQt1StSoF9cKvyn0hgTXtrOPlV_2ZkQzEdsLPs_qg8jBYbHtm4F7uUmRmCMIWfHv3BVtlM6WdzWXaNHFFi6PWbK3P1Q0rI3gUDfO0FiEY9GsG1Q4Xfe_1iEFVzP/s1600/P1020009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyeIjo88ezDqP7xwy-npQt1StSoF9cKvyn0hgTXtrOPlV_2ZkQzEdsLPs_qg8jBYbHtm4F7uUmRmCMIWfHv3BVtlM6WdzWXaNHFFi6PWbK3P1Q0rI3gUDfO0FiEY9GsG1Q4Xfe_1iEFVzP/s1600/P1020009.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A short climb to the Chungara pass (at almost 4700 m) and we enter our fifth country of the trip - Chile!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHWT3c-0ZoxYmYtyq4R5n3j9024fKsWF7RR8YbXVuhnVMBRFYlegfpHjEwdMGJoAmHHJbocAGZ_bt3zmOI7YkHB4W4yMQsofOlkepkrOlhAC0KKXHytgO22czTvsOHo-slXQLjhcfZvyii/s1600/P1020015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHWT3c-0ZoxYmYtyq4R5n3j9024fKsWF7RR8YbXVuhnVMBRFYlegfpHjEwdMGJoAmHHJbocAGZ_bt3zmOI7YkHB4W4yMQsofOlkepkrOlhAC0KKXHytgO22czTvsOHo-slXQLjhcfZvyii/s1600/P1020015.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Before we even reach the border post in Chile we spot our first flamencos at the famous laguna Chungara.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyqzzjxh2vzbv5EtTNu__5FzXdk7tzFPeokYY26qrhV_RnSnD0P2Ew7XSnuzO2Ld77Soq7N1XMqc8dfUPQDGhpHPEGGzg2zBI1O-hQToGMWgeeVNIGLynFsholPF1ZhUrknnLTiaenlz0h/s1600/IMG_1930.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyqzzjxh2vzbv5EtTNu__5FzXdk7tzFPeokYY26qrhV_RnSnD0P2Ew7XSnuzO2Ld77Soq7N1XMqc8dfUPQDGhpHPEGGzg2zBI1O-hQToGMWgeeVNIGLynFsholPF1ZhUrknnLTiaenlz0h/s1600/IMG_1930.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After the border formalities, we turn up a sandy track which has us pushing almost immediately. In the background, the text book volcano-shape Parinacota (on the left, at 6348 m) and its neighbour Pomerape (at 6222 m)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOw6W2bhPmJ2cfX0lSQc1vJwE7pZj-irRxE2MFzYiVEguV-caXanqfjhfbiTAR06QLsAvQGjwVJ5YhjA7hRUECZOYZjS2Spei7KM43JlC_XGiIhTVPmN-y2Kw3liHr07qVAFmtoiA9gFYQ/s1600/P1020021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOw6W2bhPmJ2cfX0lSQc1vJwE7pZj-irRxE2MFzYiVEguV-caXanqfjhfbiTAR06QLsAvQGjwVJ5YhjA7hRUECZOYZjS2Spei7KM43JlC_XGiIhTVPmN-y2Kw3liHr07qVAFmtoiA9gFYQ/s1600/P1020021.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fortunately, the beautiful views of the volcanoes distract us from what a slog it is. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJtzPbQINcxzezn1G8sw-0R6Hmc26OxlkP3Y60v3mleYg7BdQLp_tkoX28L-sRVc82UiDKnnI1nt-L3k4HLIc2QH0xqGlBgK8arIXxnsESsWYIIrFqBgKXZtBJY5GhSppiLK3vLeSfjx4F/s1600/P1020033.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJtzPbQINcxzezn1G8sw-0R6Hmc26OxlkP3Y60v3mleYg7BdQLp_tkoX28L-sRVc82UiDKnnI1nt-L3k4HLIc2QH0xqGlBgK8arIXxnsESsWYIIrFqBgKXZtBJY5GhSppiLK3vLeSfjx4F/s1600/P1020033.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally, after taking 2.5 hours to cover the 10km from the border, we arrive at the Termas Chirigualla. The hot springs create a wonderful heated temperature inside, and just about fit two sleeping cyclists (we reckon it was well below -10C at night outside).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSpV5jCmGLsWbo2Ejl596yBmUtrF5B8715ArRFuxronzaHstdD5DF76Nm_8tjxOPY9sMqlrzza_2tWlsTfqoQczEF3iRRNUjA79ZiM-S_aV5llCS4sDx2OBwDnAiw0piQmkpzF4tFi5J4j/s1600/P1020037.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSpV5jCmGLsWbo2Ejl596yBmUtrF5B8715ArRFuxronzaHstdD5DF76Nm_8tjxOPY9sMqlrzza_2tWlsTfqoQczEF3iRRNUjA79ZiM-S_aV5llCS4sDx2OBwDnAiw0piQmkpzF4tFi5J4j/s1600/P1020037.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But the termales were way too hot for our liking...until in the morning, a nice Bolivian shepherd showed us the trick to make them more beareable. Simply block the hot water input to the pool with the pictured bottle and rock,and wait for it to cool down.</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy_CbPNDTs5Gm-ar1cm3PrIUpiZL5x813RVo03x012AEdKqTb1KFfXQ9K6M_BEwbk0ETVJ4XXlPdviYDilF5jtfPpdf9BO9Vw4tT4qRRrsfwQNqBKZxefRPewmhk4vAVEkt_EYmioCSeIS/s1600/P1020029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy_CbPNDTs5Gm-ar1cm3PrIUpiZL5x813RVo03x012AEdKqTb1KFfXQ9K6M_BEwbk0ETVJ4XXlPdviYDilF5jtfPpdf9BO9Vw4tT4qRRrsfwQNqBKZxefRPewmhk4vAVEkt_EYmioCSeIS/s1600/P1020029.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">In the morning, we are treated to our first views of the fumarole of the volcano Guallatiri.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8fB4OBXfIm5hZBTiui5SQZ1oE_8srB_li4TYcw28MkI3DSSyE21rr3VhN6kUB24XJTf6MdrsynOYieTKCMwMqNK1g3j5nMl-skOKJBww1GRvFO9JlyvtHElm8aK-X11uh77n-y4OI_zS3/s1600/IMG_1970.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8fB4OBXfIm5hZBTiui5SQZ1oE_8srB_li4TYcw28MkI3DSSyE21rr3VhN6kUB24XJTf6MdrsynOYieTKCMwMqNK1g3j5nMl-skOKJBww1GRvFO9JlyvtHElm8aK-X11uh77n-y4OI_zS3/s640/IMG_1970.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Having gone through the village of Guallatiri, where the kind <i>carabineros</i> gave us much needed water, we cycled past another stunning river valley. We then followed what we believed was the tyre tracks of fellow cyclists <a href="http://latitude40.org/">Carwyn </a>and Mark (yes, we cyclists know each other tyre tracks), and found a great sheltered campspot.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijfkVaPF1XVt-oKltd3JVQqoWjIgaUrgRCs6XSVaPTc268PCtclJRMyJSuHGSI4Q9RJ2l5wzhBayoANfvWomWiquM-Q5tmgJkdZHidkjlufKw3u-G9f6zEUHe1tcPslRPqIrbOWDf6nA9D/s1600/IMG_1938.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijfkVaPF1XVt-oKltd3JVQqoWjIgaUrgRCs6XSVaPTc268PCtclJRMyJSuHGSI4Q9RJ2l5wzhBayoANfvWomWiquM-Q5tmgJkdZHidkjlufKw3u-G9f6zEUHe1tcPslRPqIrbOWDf6nA9D/s1600/IMG_1938.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Then it was only another 20 km on corrugated and sandy surfaces (with plenty of mining trucks, of the very kind Chilean variety!) to the Salar de Surire. This was the first salar we've ever seen, and surely the most impressive with its wildife</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0P8sTrVTtLiKmIInSqxHoAUiK3MKpDUXr63jG9zPreMA5LUzGhLQtAC7Jb3q4gFFCEaYJriWa-mq2HxkOl2l4DWQpN3jRSsEF_w8BSBvZH9TVtT7sjt0OW4qSRnP-I_bEI86ysqO0sN3D/s1600/IMG_1944.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0P8sTrVTtLiKmIInSqxHoAUiK3MKpDUXr63jG9zPreMA5LUzGhLQtAC7Jb3q4gFFCEaYJriWa-mq2HxkOl2l4DWQpN3jRSsEF_w8BSBvZH9TVtT7sjt0OW4qSRnP-I_bEI86ysqO0sN3D/s1600/IMG_1944.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In Chile things are a little different. Not only did we find signs showing distances to every village en route, but also, they suggest where you can take pictures!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg6dMN-fanQZwNanyq_jF7lJMLFi0O0tVogHDlyAlOoFJ_GWt_r7vImKv1vDDTC77o_08X_vGlzjxd9pGHsp9uNCjb_8x0WNSlFre-X124UsoCzqcBYkWPLNBIuOldW1x4uOsDsr4ohOu9/s1600/P1020050.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg6dMN-fanQZwNanyq_jF7lJMLFi0O0tVogHDlyAlOoFJ_GWt_r7vImKv1vDDTC77o_08X_vGlzjxd9pGHsp9uNCjb_8x0WNSlFre-X124UsoCzqcBYkWPLNBIuOldW1x4uOsDsr4ohOu9/s1600/P1020050.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vicuñas were a common sight chilling out on the salar.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilhUKJsoYVbqMAHrt_TmEx-xkuRCuhjuFNmE5WZjb5M0PlDbrIYVDfAhhdW5h9IjPK0fdLqRxoDzt36TToefDoIrIILzeFYEBm8P8zR8G_VcaoTpErZfaVI_Ety53Fu94ITYFBbMTJLZRN/s1600/P1020057.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilhUKJsoYVbqMAHrt_TmEx-xkuRCuhjuFNmE5WZjb5M0PlDbrIYVDfAhhdW5h9IjPK0fdLqRxoDzt36TToefDoIrIILzeFYEBm8P8zR8G_VcaoTpErZfaVI_Ety53Fu94ITYFBbMTJLZRN/s1600/P1020057.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As were flamencos...apparently more than one species can be found here...but being no biologists, we had no clue which ones were they...help!?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlpNImZQHOTR993wYbGkrf4iuKmk3xaxvQi4YrU5y3ELKd-Ng2BYHX71m-FhygfCU22I5Cz2zU1cR-xp3ePah4gMipQI9lN8HhsgpfdckCIaJfZsgaQpCcJN8y2n48VQiL9EYpwq38qnyF/s1600/P1020048.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlpNImZQHOTR993wYbGkrf4iuKmk3xaxvQi4YrU5y3ELKd-Ng2BYHX71m-FhygfCU22I5Cz2zU1cR-xp3ePah4gMipQI9lN8HhsgpfdckCIaJfZsgaQpCcJN8y2n48VQiL9EYpwq38qnyF/s1600/P1020048.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We went the East way around the salar, occasionally pushing on sand, until we found one of the most incredible campsites of our journey...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlLV8enhrBdMnaRJK7d0iUehXzjssiwzlvMiS2pCc6toWir3pl4tSwFQRThJSb-lz1JiM4neMF-SuCCFE6knqjRQycjW6lmundbZDlUMJJp7dYFzWB8HdCkDYZRUqqpByvFXAta9mbsp-1/s1600/P1020097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlLV8enhrBdMnaRJK7d0iUehXzjssiwzlvMiS2pCc6toWir3pl4tSwFQRThJSb-lz1JiM4neMF-SuCCFE6knqjRQycjW6lmundbZDlUMJJp7dYFzWB8HdCkDYZRUqqpByvFXAta9mbsp-1/s1600/P1020097.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...a flat, sheltered spot, overlooking the salar. All was left was an ideal sunset, which we also got.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPKeuWJG3Hptt4G1kiOau7iovAziTQT8uJkeDKbaL7qNRCG3iUVlSwGLJKJiZlGfvHNupRZMZKDPjqS4ott9L7p9vDXAHNlW15CaFKFAe__t5MZVemdoxdIO14YmmoZUQOE32QdeS1ZYNB/s1600/IMG_1963.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPKeuWJG3Hptt4G1kiOau7iovAziTQT8uJkeDKbaL7qNRCG3iUVlSwGLJKJiZlGfvHNupRZMZKDPjqS4ott9L7p9vDXAHNlW15CaFKFAe__t5MZVemdoxdIO14YmmoZUQOE32QdeS1ZYNB/s1600/IMG_1963.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The following morning we carried on and briefly entered Bolivia, before heading back to Chile. We knew Michael, plusSpaniards Quique and Alicia (and Michael) were a few hours ahead of us, so we pressed on....</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0xACk1nGUny8LquCHVG_Kw2c7C6UBQCTWmX1X5NumoIpqFzK5-PV__GI7GIL1ztgs9xSmFde2TaE09NPdENYV6uJaEwQkOUyEMIgpI5ow3KC2jafMN1aFeQO9Hv3EB98s9dyvuRGzQbYh/s1600/P1020122.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0xACk1nGUny8LquCHVG_Kw2c7C6UBQCTWmX1X5NumoIpqFzK5-PV__GI7GIL1ztgs9xSmFde2TaE09NPdENYV6uJaEwQkOUyEMIgpI5ow3KC2jafMN1aFeQO9Hv3EB98s9dyvuRGzQbYh/s1600/P1020122.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First we caught up with Michael...and cycle past more abandoned villages, with their immaculate churches</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcs23vN_FdzJ8NHL98oaix9_YdZcYYFi_wUMv98wJjWbICuP35B0nMN2OW-ye-X1u6tHGzP7F44U6Wm4l58fHwQPq06L8gIHHJ3zJmwuIJPWj4GktdDl7ymdGfWc-chEbbFZ-z5136DbZt/s1600/P1020125.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcs23vN_FdzJ8NHL98oaix9_YdZcYYFi_wUMv98wJjWbICuP35B0nMN2OW-ye-X1u6tHGzP7F44U6Wm4l58fHwQPq06L8gIHHJ3zJmwuIJPWj4GktdDl7ymdGfWc-chEbbFZ-z5136DbZt/s1600/P1020125.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Then sandboarded with our bikes through thick sand. Fat bikes came to our minds.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA26yqMy2dOlKGIx1ENksfJMxXzMHQJ_9zF2Ls4OYeDQ8KLv7IeSNYLc6mFIhGh6Bj9BsSHc1j5p2aea8y5IXdJ0A63Xr8nwlbwjnR2KWEkG6Ref7a8ynDYccBZ1NMiGnstGVRoEkBP3i8/s1600/P1020146.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA26yqMy2dOlKGIx1ENksfJMxXzMHQJ_9zF2Ls4OYeDQ8KLv7IeSNYLc6mFIhGh6Bj9BsSHc1j5p2aea8y5IXdJ0A63Xr8nwlbwjnR2KWEkG6Ref7a8ynDYccBZ1NMiGnstGVRoEkBP3i8/s1600/P1020146.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A few km ahead, we caught up with <a href="http://coleccionandoatardeceres.blogspot.com/">Quique and Alicia</a>, from Las Palmas (Canary Islands) and Ferrol (Galicia), and a mini-peloton of 5 was formed.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2ysd7dq9376TTrYWahQCfIT2_GdizC7aD19lLhNyd_GZlQAlUxUD6rAA3XsEd1yOZ0HuJwKiaojN3q9qTgHonGNxfKfEiD8w2WHcvJ6OuzRIhA0LYVHOMDQ8THb87tPS0C1zz2CPZeIPA/s1600/P1020154.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2ysd7dq9376TTrYWahQCfIT2_GdizC7aD19lLhNyd_GZlQAlUxUD6rAA3XsEd1yOZ0HuJwKiaojN3q9qTgHonGNxfKfEiD8w2WHcvJ6OuzRIhA0LYVHOMDQ8THb87tPS0C1zz2CPZeIPA/s1600/P1020154.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With the afternoon winds picking up, we were lucky to find the abandoned settlement of Aravilla...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEjknDzznKFzpvKXIiA8VdbtMn0unB-AzQg1KLpO1AcJVBuuUpSGddH3JLMBRR8wGrw0iyaPllAjRI95JhdpsdlbCrQXXYJPWir2XTGP5aqV7Grt8cr6CX2G5zEFU4BL0NnwIp4ZOgsHse/s1600/IMG_1971.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEjknDzznKFzpvKXIiA8VdbtMn0unB-AzQg1KLpO1AcJVBuuUpSGddH3JLMBRR8wGrw0iyaPllAjRI95JhdpsdlbCrQXXYJPWir2XTGP5aqV7Grt8cr6CX2G5zEFU4BL0NnwIp4ZOgsHse/s1600/IMG_1971.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and a building which fitted our three tents just perfectly. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXOIAxUQCnADTUJfsEHhQZF39enMFHX07Nbcsws6vMy302PLVaWH1PXgS9jHcFs5k6HlgItrdyZu7HpqnaYdw6t5rNEoZGlF2cuFXje4ecDcTBd6H8TH-Xz35-nZMkHDmk10no1gHN4vv1/s1600/IMG_1981.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXOIAxUQCnADTUJfsEHhQZF39enMFHX07Nbcsws6vMy302PLVaWH1PXgS9jHcFs5k6HlgItrdyZu7HpqnaYdw6t5rNEoZGlF2cuFXje4ecDcTBd6H8TH-Xz35-nZMkHDmk10no1gHN4vv1/s1600/IMG_1981.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the morning, we pressed on to the Chilean border town of Colchani, but first was Enquelga. We were surprised by its brand new plaza.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvVVtSygQ0T2iiDVCYubO9vDw_vkziP6-s_LtrsfSE0XjVMAjiUlHLQ0XM4CuuhDvlEYozEo-JBbsCNu0dc39qEG2CuQd88cDfuBOH4lnEYlghyphenhyphenxqkGW8QOJFuJN4BFOWPaCBKXIpJ1ya_/s1600/IMG_1987.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvVVtSygQ0T2iiDVCYubO9vDw_vkziP6-s_LtrsfSE0XjVMAjiUlHLQ0XM4CuuhDvlEYozEo-JBbsCNu0dc39qEG2CuQd88cDfuBOH4lnEYlghyphenhyphenxqkGW8QOJFuJN4BFOWPaCBKXIpJ1ya_/s1600/IMG_1987.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just before Colchani, the washboard and sand ended and were treated to some km of fine pavement...so we just chilled out to the border.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgy1GeD8j77kKH1tnbPvseRJTR0kRMt7J3b4yzkroQgcp3aBOk5tgtZN1nUpRoXvqbU9-re2Bqig6ZXn84ONoeOoeCVUjI2EUzYHwt-58B7Rp694k1Z08m64KsslUL-5xaYtmNssnioSw9/s1600/IMG_1984.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgy1GeD8j77kKH1tnbPvseRJTR0kRMt7J3b4yzkroQgcp3aBOk5tgtZN1nUpRoXvqbU9-re2Bqig6ZXn84ONoeOoeCVUjI2EUzYHwt-58B7Rp694k1Z08m64KsslUL-5xaYtmNssnioSw9/s1600/IMG_1984.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Once in the Bolivian town of Pisiga Bolivar, we had no choice but to stock up with some junk...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Before crashing down in an <i>ambiente </i>that the villagers lent us. Back in Bolivia, for now...</td></tr>
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Route notes:<br />
- La Paz to Tambo Quemado:<br />
We took the bus to Patacamayo for Bs. 20 from the terminal in La Paz (Bs. 2 terminal fee also). We were told to negotiate an extra fee for the bikes with the driver, but he didn't ask us for anything. Prom Patacamayo the main highway is excellent pavement with a good shoulder. The truck traffic was not too bad but compared to the quiet roads we got accustomed to we found it bothersome. Note that our map shows both Callapa and Curahuara de Carangas as on the main road, but in fact both would require a few km's detour. However there are shops and restaurants on the main road at the turnoff to Curahuara, known as 'Curva'.<br />
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We followed <a href="http://www.big-sur.co.uk/a-chilean-interlude/">Big Sur's route notes</a> and turned off of the main highway not too long after Curva to take the dirt road looping around the Volcano and into the town of Sajama. This added almost no distance to the route but added about a day's cycling due to the road being much slower. The town of Sajama has accommodation and (expensive) shops. This road dumps you back onto the main highway close to Tambo Quemado, which has restaurants, shops, and accommodation. <a href="http://velofreedom.bike/2014/10/04/when-two-become-three-become-one-la-paz-to-sabaya-via-chile/">Nathan (Velo Freedom)</a> also has useful notes on this route.<br />
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- Tambo Quemado to Pisiga Bolivar:<br />
We again followed Big Sur's notes to cross into Chile (no fresh fruit, veg, meat or dairy allowed). We expected there to be no shops or accommodation en route but were told that there is a restaurant with basic shop selling cookies and the like in Guallatiri, as well as accommodation there. The notes on where to get water from Big Sur are spot on. There is a fair amount of truck traffic from shortly after the hot springs all the way until Chilcaya / Salar de Surire. The drivers are without exception courteous, passing with plenty of room and usually giving a wave as they do so. But the sandy road creates plenty of unpleasant dust each time they pass.<br />
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We took the shortcut that <a href="http://coleccionandoatardeceres.blogspot.com/">Quique</a> found from the Salar de Surire to save about 25km and a couple hundred meters of climbing, turning left uphill about 3/4ths of the way around the Salar (this misses out Polloquere hot springs). The uphill is steep (pushing required), but overall we recommend it, especially as it cuts short the time until the next water source (a freshwater stream on the pampa once you have descended the other side). Carabineri at both Guallatiri and Chilcaya were familiar with this alternative should you have questions - if you mention the road that briefly goes into Bolivia and then back out they will know what you're talking about.<br />
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There are shops and accommodation in Colchane, on the Chilean side of the border, but you might as well cross to Pisiga where things are cheaper.<br />
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We did this route in 4 days/ 4 nights, including taking things a bit easy the last two days once we met up with the rest of the group. It could quite easily be done in 4 days / 3 nights if you cross the border in the morning and don't camp at the Termas Chirigualla. We carried food for 5 days just to be sure.<br />
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<br />Albertohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15789158563391048740noreply@blogger.com3